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Ram 4500/5500 crawler hauler

...to get up/over the engine I'm routing the pyro 'wire' through the engine bay overhead conduit; I know the pyro probe gets all kinds of hot but it doesn't get hot all the way - anyone think it will get hot enough to cause problem(s) routed inside the OE conduit like this?
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ok - got the fuel rail cleaned up and the new PRV installed, and the intake/common rail/lines are installed. Even with crows feet wrenches and other custom tools there was basically no way to get a real torque wrench on 4 of the high-pressure lines at the injectors, so I went old school and 'calibrated' my arm and did it by hand...
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Got a boost bolt for the new gauge -
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and for a grid heater, I opted for this nice in-line piece from Black Market Performance. This just inserts in-line just above the throttle valve, has minimal restriction, and if it ever comes apart the pieces should simply fall down into the intercooler plumbing and not into the head -
blackmarketperformance.com

2007.5-2024 6.7 Cummins Intake Air Heater Relocation Kit

The Black Market Performance 6.7 Cummins Intake Air Heater Relocation Kit is designed to be paired with aftermarket Heater Grid plates, this item will help with cold starts in colder climates and also eliminates the chances of engine failure due to a factory nut located on the stock heater grid...
blackmarketperformance.com blackmarketperformance.com
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Should have it all back together in a couple days, and then I can get it fired up, heat soaked, and check for leaks...
 
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Mad Max said:
for a grid heater, I opted for this nice in-line piece from Black Market Performance. This just inserts in-line just above the throttle valve, has minimal restriction, and if it ever comes apart the pieces should simply fall down into the intercooler plumbing and not into the head -
blackmarketperformance.com

2007.5-2024 6.7 Cummins Intake Air Heater Relocation Kit

The Black Market Performance 6.7 Cummins Intake Air Heater Relocation Kit is designed to be paired with aftermarket Heater Grid plates, this item will help with cold starts in colder climates and also eliminates the chances of engine failure due to a factory nut located on the stock heater grid...
blackmarketperformance.com blackmarketperformance.com
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Early Duramax intake heater element by the looks of it. I thought about doing a DIY version of that for my Pops 4th gen.
 
...refilled the system with coolant (I use Peak Final Charge pre-mixed) until it juuuust started gurgling out the vent port, which if my info is correct is the highest point in the system, and when full means the system is full, and shouldn't need much (if any) burp -
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Then finished up the intake side. PSA - for anyone doing one of these pancake heaters, I HIGHLY recommend installing it and the throttle valve to the intake horn BEFORE installing the intake, 'cuz while doable...installing it after the intake horn is already bolted on is not a lot of fun...
installed - routed the heater cable over the horn, and I made my own negative cable to the battery -
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all done -
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(whew!) Ok - bolted up the EGR valve and crossover/hot tube, did a last check of everything, and keyed the ignition 6 times to prime both fuel filters and the common rail. With no leaks present keyed the starter, and on the third short cycle it fired up and ran perfect. Ran it for 15 minutes to get some heat in the exhaust then shut it down, and now time to let it cool off, remove the air cleaner plumbing, and re-check the exhaust manifold torque. Gauges work great, tho while they do 'dim' on the switch they don't dim very much - probably because they're LEDs. If after some nighttime runs they become too bright I'll install a simple toggle switch to turn off the lights.

Also, think the original serpentine belt was still in there so installed a fresh green belt. Once the bolt torque is rechecked we'll do a test drive to make sure none of the boost side has any issues...and then press on.

- Sam
 
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coolieo - test drive went just fine - no issues - truck seems to be good to go.

However...(why is there always a 'however')...now that I have a gauge I was little surprised to see how hot the EGTs get just 'driving around' - never went north of 1200 but it got all the way up to it just for a brief moment while I was 'in it' accelerating, but settled down nicely once up to speed - idle was right around 400*, hovered at/around 800-900* cruising - guess that's just how it is? Judging by how much soot and crap was in the EGR system I bet cleaning the DPF would help bring down EGTs a bit...hmmmm....but then again I thought the regen system is supposed to keep the DPF 'clean'...now I gotta ponder this.

...I have to say...I'm pretty disappointed with how hot the EGTs get just driving around with no load - it's 11,500 lbs empty so yah it's a hefty truck, but I expected it to be a couple hundred degrees cooler especially with the high-flow exhaust manifold...unless there's some sort of issue causing the higher temps...and pretty sure I didn't leave a rag in the downpipe plugging the DPF. My '93 D250 CTD put 300 horses to the tires and never saw 1200* unless I was REALLY heavy in the throttle or towing heavy uphill - granted it had an upgraded turbo and the fuel turned up but really nothing very fancy - just solid parts. Gonna load up the Jeep tomorrow and take it out again and see how hot it runs - I'll be severely pissed if it gets north of 1000 just maintaining highway speed...
 
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Dunno if it is true but I heard a guy saying they put a pyro probe in the DPF before and it melted the end of the probe off.
 
yah I wouldn't doubt that a regen would melt the probe - yikes.

ok I think it's good to go 👍 . Just took it for a drive with the Jeep on its back, and 70 mph = 15 boost/1050 EGT, 80 mph = 17-20 boost/1100 EGT. Moderate 'passing' would bring the EGTs past 1200 but I don't think I saw 1300. Max boost seems to be a hard 27 psi - maybe it's gated for that psi, but it gets there fine, but I could not get it to go past 27, and that's probably a C&C detuning thing. Anyway, there it is, with actual numbers, and now I 'know' the truck seems to be in relatively good order.
- Sam
 
Yeah it could be a C&C thing, not sure what all they changed really. Didn't know they had the big mouth intake horn like that till you posted, I would think they would have the small one since they don't make as much power and the pickup would have the larger opening. Manufacturers always do weird stuff like that it seems.
I have to wonder how much MPG improvement you might see with a tow tune or even just a boost fooler to bmp PSI up a bit.
 
yah I'll happily employ any MPG improvements I can, and I want to get a mild tuner for it, which might permit a bit more boost etc. Pretty sure sure I'll drop in an intercooler in due time (maybe the one from Spelab), along with fresh boots and such, which should make a decent reduction in EGTs. I have a big two-week trip coming in June, and by the time I'm back I may have decided to upgrade the intercooler sooner vs later...
- Sam
 
Mad Max said:
coolieo - test drive went just fine - no issues - truck seems to be good to go.

However...(why is there always a 'however')...now that I have a gauge I was little surprised to see how hot the EGTs get just 'driving around' - never went north of 1200 but it got all the way up to it just for a brief moment while I was 'in it' accelerating, but settled down nicely once up to speed - idle was right around 400*, hovered at/around 800-900* cruising - guess that's just how it is? Judging by how much soot and crap was in the EGR system I bet cleaning the DPF would help bring down EGTs a bit...hmmmm....but then again I thought the regen system is supposed to keep the DPF 'clean'...now I gotta ponder this.

...I have to say...I'm pretty disappointed with how hot the EGTs get just driving around with no load - it's 11,500 lbs empty so yah it's a hefty truck, but I expected it to be a couple hundred degrees cooler especially with the high-flow exhaust manifold...unless there's some sort of issue causing the higher temps...and pretty sure I didn't leave a rag in the downpipe plugging the DPF. My '93 D250 CTD put 300 horses to the tires and never saw 1200* unless I was REALLY heavy in the throttle or towing heavy uphill - granted it had an upgraded turbo and the fuel turned up but really nothing very fancy - just solid parts. Gonna load up the Jeep tomorrow and take it out again and see how hot it runs - I'll be severely pissed if it gets north of 1000 just maintaining highway speed...
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The dpf cannot remove ash only soot.
So when it regens the soot is burned off but the ash from the oil remains.
When the dpf is full of ash it won't have any capacity to hold soot so it will frequently regen to keep delta pressure in check. As that frequency increases it's a runaway train making it worse, higher fuel dilution etc.
 
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I might pull the DPF out, cut it apart, and have it cleaned locally, reweld it and stick it back in - not sure when but doing it is no big
 
If purple power cleaned the EGR cooler wouldn't it also work for the DPF? maybe pull it off the truck, plug one end with rubber glove hose clamped on and filler up?
 
maybe, but the amount of cleaner and the amazingly dirty residue that would come out of the thing would be astounding, and I do not have anything that could catch that much cleaning fluid - the video's I've seen on the process involve copious amounts of water going through the DPF and I don't want any part of my shop involved with that part.
 
Ah ok I just figured if you stood it up in a barrel you could just fill the DPF area. Not familiar with the exact section that comes of to know how much it would be in cleaner lol.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It just looks basically like a big catalytic converter on a gas rig
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Yeah I just mean I don't know if it comes off as a 3ft section or if it's all one piece with the downpipe on his truck. If it's like 6ft long with multiple bends I could see cleaning it would be a pain in the ass but if it coms off as a straight section of pipe a few feet long I would be dunking it in a bucket of the purple wash and maybe ratchet strapping it to keep it upright overnight.
 
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