Blase
Well-known member
Bump for updates!
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Build 92 4Runner rebuild, 3 link front with new front frame section
Penetrode Offroad
Red Skull
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 493
- Messages
- 955
Dude this is pimp
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #34
It's been slow going lately but I do have some updates. After I cut off the inner fenders / front clip I got the steering box mounted. Two holes through the frame, the top hole was just above the frame so I added some plate and boxed it in.
After the steering box was mounted it was onto mounting the shocks. I got a pair of shock towers from WFO and ended up having to extend them about 2" taller. I tried to put the lower eye of the shock as low / as far wide on the axle as I could. If I push them any wider on the axle I won't be able to get a socket / torque wrench on the steering arm.
Doing more cycling side to side wit the shocks on.
Decided to put the springs on get it set down on its own weight for the first time. I got 150 / 200 springs to start with.
Did a flex test with the gantry and found my next clearance issue lol. The drop side of the axle swings the coilover spring right into the bump stop can. I originally had 2x2 Radflo pinch mount bump stops and the shock body would get into the pinch bolts pretty fast. I got some 2x2 Trail Gear pintop bump stops and that helped some but the spring still contacts the bump stop can eventually. I think I'm gonna move the bumps inward an inch or two. Originally I thought i could move the lower shock tabs out wider but like I was saying I'm kinda stuck with the steering arm in the way. Then I thought about moving the shock towers outward so the upper mounts are wider, but then the shock angle it almost straight up and down. They are about 10* right now towards the engine. Other than that everything seems to be clearing good.
After the steering box was mounted it was onto mounting the shocks. I got a pair of shock towers from WFO and ended up having to extend them about 2" taller. I tried to put the lower eye of the shock as low / as far wide on the axle as I could. If I push them any wider on the axle I won't be able to get a socket / torque wrench on the steering arm.
Doing more cycling side to side wit the shocks on.
Decided to put the springs on get it set down on its own weight for the first time. I got 150 / 200 springs to start with.
Did a flex test with the gantry and found my next clearance issue lol. The drop side of the axle swings the coilover spring right into the bump stop can. I originally had 2x2 Radflo pinch mount bump stops and the shock body would get into the pinch bolts pretty fast. I got some 2x2 Trail Gear pintop bump stops and that helped some but the spring still contacts the bump stop can eventually. I think I'm gonna move the bumps inward an inch or two. Originally I thought i could move the lower shock tabs out wider but like I was saying I'm kinda stuck with the steering arm in the way. Then I thought about moving the shock towers outward so the upper mounts are wider, but then the shock angle it almost straight up and down. They are about 10* right now towards the engine. Other than that everything seems to be clearing good.
Blase
Well-known member
Looks great! It looks like you would have miles of clearance from the pictures. Funny how that all works! Most of your brackets are 4WU right? Where do they put the bumps?
Edit: what Radiator are you running?
Edit: what Radiator are you running?
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J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #38
The radiator is just a cheap eBay aluminum one for a 3.0.
I have the bumps in the spot that the 4WU designed them to be, between the shock and the frame. The shocks are 2.5” diameter and the width of the new frame 3/4”-1” wider than the stock one. I think those two things are taking up the space I need. I need to cycle it without the bumps in and see how far the shock is gonna swing over.
do you have the old section of IFS frame?
I'm curious to see it versus your new frame
I've been eyeballing my rig for the 4WU 3 link front and I'm just seeing that i need some frame clearance for the tie rod/drag link
I'm curious to see it versus your new frame
I've been eyeballing my rig for the 4WU 3 link front and I'm just seeing that i need some frame clearance for the tie rod/drag link
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #42
Did cycling with the bump stops off and found the clearance I was looking for. With the bump stop can butted up to the frame, the shocks don’t hit anymore. I can slide my fingers in between the spring and the bump stop can.
Last Saturday I got the bump stops tacked onto the frame and made some gussets to tie them into the frame more than just welding the can to the frame alone.
Sunday I cycled everything one more time, double checked for clearance issues, and measured how much the pinion angle changes through out travel. Then I pulled the axle out and started welding everything in place. I got the everything on the truck welded, and almost all of the axle welded.
Next weekend I’m going to make some gussets for the upper link on top of the diff, then work on mounting the steering ram.
Last Saturday I got the bump stops tacked onto the frame and made some gussets to tie them into the frame more than just welding the can to the frame alone.
Sunday I cycled everything one more time, double checked for clearance issues, and measured how much the pinion angle changes through out travel. Then I pulled the axle out and started welding everything in place. I got the everything on the truck welded, and almost all of the axle welded.
Next weekend I’m going to make some gussets for the upper link on top of the diff, then work on mounting the steering ram.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #43
I'm still waiting for my limit strap tabs and hydro ram tie rod clamp to come from Barnes 4wd. So over the weekend I got the tie rod, drag link, panhard, and upperlink all tig welded out. Trying to make steady progress even if though it's going slower than I want it to lol
And a few pictures from a couple weeks go when I pulled everything apart to start welding everything out.
And a few pictures from a couple weeks go when I pulled everything apart to start welding everything out.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #44
Time for another update. I’ve still been making steady progress on it.
Since my last post I got the axle back in, and the shocks back on. I got the 4wheel underground ram skid tacked on the axle. I ran the tubes from the firewall to the front core support.
Then I started mounting everything under the hood. I got some tabs from Ruffstuff and welded some Toyota nuts to the back so I could still use the factory Toyota hardware to mount everything.
Made a bracket to mount the PSC steering reservoir. I as originally going to mount it to the shock tower, but decided to mount it to the engine instead.
Since my last post I got the axle back in, and the shocks back on. I got the 4wheel underground ram skid tacked on the axle. I ran the tubes from the firewall to the front core support.
Then I started mounting everything under the hood. I got some tabs from Ruffstuff and welded some Toyota nuts to the back so I could still use the factory Toyota hardware to mount everything.
Made a bracket to mount the PSC steering reservoir. I as originally going to mount it to the shock tower, but decided to mount it to the engine instead.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #45
And this weekend I made a bracket for the battery to sit on and got my eBay cold air intake put on. I still need to make 4 tabs (2 on each side) for the fenders to bolt to. Other than that, everything under the hood is now mounted.
Started the battery mount with a template.
Then transferred it to metal.
Since I was cutting everything with a grinder and cut off wheel I drilled holes at the inside corners so I could cut to the hole and not have to cut into the bracket.
After the brackets were cut out.
Got all the hole centers laid out to be hole sawed on the drill press.
Got all the holes drilled out. The sizes are 1” 1.5” and 2”
Getting all the holes flared on the press.
All ready to weld together.
All welded together and blended.
And finally tacked onto the frame. The top battery cage is a Artec Optima mount. I drilled new holes in the Artec mount, countersunk them, and got it bolted to the new bracket.
Started the battery mount with a template.
Then transferred it to metal.
Since I was cutting everything with a grinder and cut off wheel I drilled holes at the inside corners so I could cut to the hole and not have to cut into the bracket.
After the brackets were cut out.
Got all the hole centers laid out to be hole sawed on the drill press.
Got all the holes drilled out. The sizes are 1” 1.5” and 2”
Getting all the holes flared on the press.
All ready to weld together.
All welded together and blended.
And finally tacked onto the frame. The top battery cage is a Artec Optima mount. I drilled new holes in the Artec mount, countersunk them, and got it bolted to the new bracket.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #47
Time for another overdue update. I've been working on it non stop and I think I'm a few weeks away from getting the engine started and have it moving under its own power. I need to build a new exhaust system then plumb the brake lines, fuel lines, and power steering lines.
Going in order from where I left off last time, I used two Borgeson u-joints and a Borgeson telescoping steering shaft and got the steering all hooked up. The steering shaft is 3/4"DD on one end and 1"DD on the other end. I thought the spline count / size was the same on the steering box as the steering column, well I was wrong lol. So i cut the splines off the column and used a 3/4"DD to 1"DD u-joint I bought as an extra just in case I needed to use 3 u-joints to get around the shock tower. Instead I was able to cut a window in the shock tower, use two u-joints, and returned the one with the wrong spine count.
Going in order from where I left off last time, I used two Borgeson u-joints and a Borgeson telescoping steering shaft and got the steering all hooked up. The steering shaft is 3/4"DD on one end and 1"DD on the other end. I thought the spline count / size was the same on the steering box as the steering column, well I was wrong lol. So i cut the splines off the column and used a 3/4"DD to 1"DD u-joint I bought as an extra just in case I needed to use 3 u-joints to get around the shock tower. Instead I was able to cut a window in the shock tower, use two u-joints, and returned the one with the wrong spine count.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #49
After I welded the ram skid up, I had a few last little things to weld onto the frame before paint. (top limit strap mounts, shock reservoir mounts, and something else I can't remember) Then it was time for paint. I decided to try the Alloy Armor satin black paint. The $12 can trigger sprayer was an awesome move lol. Overall The paint is pretty good. I've used Steel-It once, this stuff seems to be in between Steel-It and Rustolium. Made a make shift paint booth in the shop and started spraying. I ended up doing 2 sessions of painting, doing 1-2 coats each session.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #50
2 weeks ago I finally got my front diff from Marlin after ordering it during their "Difftober Sale". I knew going in that it was going to take a while to get so was trying to be patient. I would email them every few months just to check in. To be fair they responded to every email and stuck to a story that the gears were back ordered until 3/31/26. they got the gears the first week of April and sent me a tracking number a week later.
The diff is a High Pinion 5.29 with Yukon Gears and a Yukon Grizzly locker.
Got it primed and painted. Then I was able to put the front axle together for good.
The diff is a High Pinion 5.29 with Yukon Gears and a Yukon Grizzly locker.
Got it primed and painted. Then I was able to put the front axle together for good.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #51
Got the front axle put together with all new seals, gaskets, bearings, and brakes.
Also got my aluminum lower links from TK1 Racing last week and got everything installed back onto the truck. The lower links are 2.25" 7075.
I spent the weekend wrapping up the loose ends in engine bay area and making lists of hardware and fittings needed to plumb everything. I think I might actually make some trips this summer lol.
Also got my aluminum lower links from TK1 Racing last week and got everything installed back onto the truck. The lower links are 2.25" 7075.
I spent the weekend wrapping up the loose ends in engine bay area and making lists of hardware and fittings needed to plumb everything. I think I might actually make some trips this summer lol.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Everything looks beautiful
Except the steering shaft. Those are garbage and scetchy. The set screw will wear into the steering box shaft, work loose and eventually wear the splines and get more loose. The factory clamping style is much better.
Thats if one of the other tiny set screws doesn't come loose, cause you loose steering and crash.
Except the steering shaft. Those are garbage and scetchy. The set screw will wear into the steering box shaft, work loose and eventually wear the splines and get more loose. The factory clamping style is much better.
Thats if one of the other tiny set screws doesn't come loose, cause you loose steering and crash.
apimpdad
I hate everything
lol
How many instances of this have you witnessed?
Also, 5/16” is far from a small set screw with an additional locking nut
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J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #54
Interesting. I haven't heard that one before. I had a friend who had a Trail Gear u-joint at the steering box and it wore out pretty quick. He replaced it with a Borgeson one and never looked back. Thousands of street miles plus trail miles (Fordyce and Rubicon) and never had a problem. I'll put some locktite on it and keep an eye on it but in not too worried about it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I ordered one for my Ford, took one look at and sent it back. The started reading reviews. Lots of people have have had the issue of them eating the splines on their steering shaft. It just common sense the design is bad.
Then talking to a buddy who was sas'ing his tacoma and he admitted he had one fall apart on another truck and lost steering.
Just use the factory Toyota stuff, it goes 100s of 1000s of miles.
apimpdad
I hate everything
Definitely the first time I’ve ever heard that. I know the Trail Gear joints have a bad reputation but never heard that out of a Borgeson.
I’ve cobbled together a Toyota shaft once many years ago and haven’t looked back since finding the aftermarket options
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YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
They're all the same concept.
Just think about what that set screw on the splined shaft does. Pushes the female spline over to one side and will eventually wear them Un even.
Do whatever you want, but to me loosing steering is the most dangerous thing that can happen, worse than brakes and yes I've had both fail on me
Installing a borgeson shaft on a redhead box voids the warranty if that tells you anything.
Just Google borgeson steering shaft issues and you can read all day about why they suck. If they just made the spline side clamp instead gay ass set screw it would be all good. Then the set screw on the double D shaft is easy to keep secure.
J.Cole
Red Skull
- Thread starter
- #58
Factory Toyota stuff would have worked fine, I just didn't have one that would work. The stock one was a solid 1 piece shaft not telescoping and I needed to extend it a few inches.
Yes there are tons of people on other forums and Facebook that say the set screws are junk and constantly come loose. There are also the same amount or more people saying they installed them per Borgeson instructions and haven't had a problem. I think a lot people saying they are junk are not installing them correctly. Proper u-joint phasing, putting a dimple under where the set screw lands, using loctite, or putting a tack weld on it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
All that will fix them coming loose on the double d section.
Nothing will solve the poor design of a female spline being pushed over to one side by a set screw. It may take a while, but it does eventually ruin the splines.
If I were you and couldn't find a whole shaft, I would just put the factory clamp style ujoint on the box and figure out a clean way to weld it to the double D.
Buy again, do what you want. For a weekend end wheeler it may last forever
Norcalpr
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4538
- Messages
- 79
Maybe there are issues out there (and maybe I'm just lucky, or maybe its bevause people arent installing um correctly) but I had a borgeson setup on my last rig that was a Tacoma. It was mainly a DD rig but also wheeled a bunch. I put 100k miles on it before I sold it. Never once had the screws loosen or the joint sloppy on the splines.
New rig is a 3rd gen runner. The trail gear needles in the ujoints dont last worth a ****, but i now have borgeson ujoints on it as well. Its been coming up on 8 years with this rig and never an issue.
Theres a flat on the steering box splines. One set screw goes on that flat, the other is 90 degrees from that. The set screw should land in the necked down area so even if things were to loosen, it cant slip off till the set screw backs off all the way...
New rig is a 3rd gen runner. The trail gear needles in the ujoints dont last worth a ****, but i now have borgeson ujoints on it as well. Its been coming up on 8 years with this rig and never an issue.
Theres a flat on the steering box splines. One set screw goes on that flat, the other is 90 degrees from that. The set screw should land in the necked down area so even if things were to loosen, it cant slip off till the set screw backs off all the way...
