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Here’s the pics with some details on them. I modified the stock auto pedal setup and an 80’s xj manual pedal setup to make the Wilwood master fit the busted knuckle 9:1 arm using all oem hardware. Wasn’t bad to do. I cut off the old brake pedal piece that used the large bolt and bushings and reused that inside the busted knuckle pedal by drilling out the pedal to whatever the od was. I modified the oem bolt by facing it down and drilling and tapping it to mount the clutch pedal to. The oem clutch pedal was from a 97-01. I used the old brake pedal switch to work with the new pedal too. Everything is in double shear like the factory so not worried about bending a bolt. I also cut a 5/8 section out of the new pedal and z bent it to give more foot space since it used to be straight and interfered with the clutch pedal.Can you post pictures of the interior side with the pedal setup?
Awesome, this will be great future referenceHere’s the pics with some details on them. I modified the stock auto pedal setup and an 80’s xj manual pedal setup to make the Wilwood master fit the busted knuckle 9:1 arm using all oem hardware. Wasn’t bad to do. I cut off the old brake pedal piece that used the large bolt and bushings and reused that inside the busted knuckle pedal by drilling out the pedal to whatever the od was. I modified the oem bolt by facing it down and drilling and tapping it to mount the clutch pedal to. The oem clutch pedal was from a 97-01. I used the old brake pedal switch to work with the new pedal too. Everything is in double shear like the factory so not worried about bending a bolt. I also cut a 5/8 section out of the new pedal and z bent it to give more foot space since it used to be straight and interfered with the clutch pedal.
Badass!! My 30x40 just got finished working on walls and electrical now. Yours looks like a Cold Formed building as well? It's yours from ACT Buildings?Decided the racecar deserved a shop to be finished in, 24x36 shop in the backyard
heck yes! i wanted to go bigger but decided to go this size as i still have a 30' long attached garage. definitely regret that decision now but i also have room to do a 15x24 extension onto the side if i wanted to... it was a cold form building but fairly heavy duty. its all 1/8" 3x8 c channel double butted to make 6x8 columns and headers, and i agree working on rock sucked and i was tired of laying on concrete outside so now i lay on concrete inside!!Badass!! My 30x40 just got finished working on walls and electrical now. Yours looks like a Cold Formed building as well? It's yours from ACT Buildings?
It's definitely nice having concrete to work on now. Laying on rock sucked 🤣🤣
Yeah mine is a Cold Formed building as well. Definitely beefy!! I'm pretty sure the building can support a ceiling mounted beam and roller with a chain host for unloading axles and motors from the truck lolheck yes! i wanted to go bigger but decided to go this size as i still have a 30' long attached garage. definitely regret that decision now but i also have room to do a 15x24 extension onto the side if i wanted to... it was a cold form building but fairly heavy duty. its all 1/8" 3x8 c channel double butted to make 6x8 columns and headers, and i agree working on rock sucked and i was tired of laying on concrete outside so now i lay on concrete inside!!
I hope it works also, and the Deaver pack I got is 61” I believe with stock pin location from front bushing. A buddy and I were jumping up and down and we couldn’t get it to hit the bumps but was super smooth. I’ll have a 32 gallon fuel cell against the cab, an aluminum jack, 2 spares, a battery and tools in the back. I’ve got scales and hoping for 55% rear weight bias.I have a Ranger Deaver pack for my Comanche but plan on running SUA. How much longer is the Deaver pack you got? Ranger specs are the same length as Comanche, just the center pin is 3” off.
I like the tension setup and the skid plates. Hope it works well.
Thought about these but I saw one get bent on a rock and it stopped sliding bound the leaf and S bent it on compression. Always wanted to do a build with these and definitely better for clearance. I can make something up but they don’t have the droop that a tension shackle hasI know it's already done but another great option is a Slider Box from LII. I ran them front and rear on my YJ with Rancho 44044s and my Jeep sat pretty low for what's essentially 5" lift leafs and a 2" Body lift (to clear the NV4500 with a stock tub). Flexed and Rode great too!!
Yeah I "boxes" in the ends. I've had the whole Jeeps weight on the end of the box and had no issues.Thought about these but I saw one get bent on a rock and it stopped sliding bound the leaf and S bent it on compression. Always wanted to do a build with these and definitely better for clearance. I can make something up but they don’t have the droop that a tension shackle has
Do the rules state you have to keep the hanger distance stock?I hope it works also, and the Deaver pack I got is 61” I believe with stock pin location from front bushing. A buddy and I were jumping up and down and we couldn’t get it to hit the bumps but was super smooth. I’ll have a 32 gallon fuel cell against the cab, an aluminum jack, 2 spares, a battery and tools in the back. I’ve got scales and hoping for 55% rear weight bias.
just has to stay leafs, originally I bought a set of cheap xj rear hangers with a bunch of holes to bring my shackle forward to get the correct shackle angle at full compression. I still have those boxes I’m keeping for another build. I’d say whack off those old shackle hangers and move them forward to keep the angle better otherwise the ride suffers and leafs bend when they go invertedDo the rules state you have to keep the hanger distance stock?
I got my ~59" G50 Deaver pack swung under to start mocking up, and in free arch it's several inches shorter than the stock hanger location. I'm worried at full droop I'll be inverting shackles. Not an issue with your tension setup, but I'm still curious if you retained the factory rear hanger distance - it looks moved back?
I have a leftover XJ box as well, that’s what I was thinking of adding. Just surprised me that longer leaf needed the shackle location moved forward. I was considering the XJ front hanger to outboard the leaves and bring them up but not sure it’s worth it.I’m
just has to stay leafs, originally I bought a set of cheap xj rear hangers with a bunch of holes to bring my shackle forward to get the correct shackle angle at full compression. I still have those boxes I’m keeping for another build. I’d say whack off those old shackle hangers and move them forward to keep the angle better otherwise the ride suffers and leafs bend when they go inverted