The TRACTOR thread

my fords got the 3.1L 3-cyl diesel. Does anyone know what the injection timing should be? Ive got a pulse adapter. We are about to adjust the valves. I want to check the timing and see if its off to try and stop it from smoking at idle.
 
My folks are poking around for a tractor. while searching, the topic of hours came up. I don't know much about tractors other than just using them.

I have a 2000 L3710 with 765 hours. that's rather low, isn't it?
 
Krackle959 said:
A 26 yr old tractor with 756 hrs, it’s about 29 hrs a year. Hardly broken in, very low hours. How was it stored all that time?

My 2020 4052R has around 900 hrs on it.
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We bought it about ten years ago. I want to says 3XX hours. The seller probably kept it indoors i think. Unfortunately for us, it stays outside.
 
ANGELO said:
my fords got the 3.1L 3-cyl diesel. Does anyone know what the injection timing should be? Ive got a pulse adapter. We are about to adjust the valves. I want to check the timing and see if its off to try and stop it from smoking at idle.
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Would like to hear this also, have always just lined up the line on the pump to the "0" on the timing cover.
 
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pulse adapters are kinda wierd, and diesel timing is kinda fiddly of a subject to nail down
you're timing at whatever is the loudest knock in the injector line, not injector opening, nor transfer port closing

kinda like the injectors that got a piezo sensor inside them, what they're listening for is the strike of the pintle at full open, so with very large injectors you'll run into where they don't 'hear' anything at hot idle, since the injectors aren't opening against the pintle travel stop hard enough. Then on the other end you can also kill the sensor with too much advance, from it reading the knock from peak combustion pressure. Killed two sets that way.

long story short, your numbers are kinda yours alone, they don't correlate well
easy to use as a datum if you've got some sorta PTO dyno or whatever, where you adjust timing for peak power, but if you're doing that you don't really need the timing light at all
 
Hydro line fail. Of course it was in the sleeve with all the hoses and I couldn’t see it, but I could hear it when I lowered or raised the boom. I extended the dipper arm full travel and laid the boom down. This decreased the bend radius of the hoses going through the boom pivot as much as possible.
No in progress pic because NM dust+hydro fluid
New line top right.
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Used some cord when I pulled the old line out to help pull the new line back through
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$85 for the new hose
 
Anyone ever run straight bar tires like these? Read they have better bi-directional traction than a chevron but less lateral stability.

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You ever driven a mud tuck on ag tires? Chevrons don't have enough lateral traction for you to miss. :laughing:

I assume those are more to solve the "drives in one direction, digs in the other" problem for stuff that isn't expected to mostly be driving forward like a tractor is, like a middle ground between R1 and R4

Are they cheaper than R2s? Because for the "totally a forest and not a swamp" stuff you do I'd just get an R2.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You ever driven a mud tuck on ag tires? Chevrons don't have enough lateral traction for you to miss. :laughing:

I assume those are more to solve the "drives in one direction, digs in the other" problem for stuff that isn't expected to mostly be driving forward like a tractor is, like a middle ground between R1 and R4

Are they cheaper than R2s? Because for the "totally a forest and not a swamp" stuff you do I'd just get an R2.
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Decided to replace them with a standard R1.
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
I have been looking for used tires for my tractor for a long time, gonna need to anti up and go new... Where are the best places to find tractor tires? Currently has 14.9-28 rears on it.
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I looked around for a few days, and of all places....a dealer. 17.5x24s with mounted R4s. Brand new. Sitting at another dealer for a year. Bolted right up. Was a 20m job.

$1500
 
Another thought is getting mine fixed, they rally have enough tread. Thoughts on getting mine fixed and then filled with beat juice? Seems like that will be a pretty good chunk of change.
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
Another thought is getting mine fixed, they rally have enough tread. Thoughts on getting mine fixed and then filled with beat juice? Seems like that will be a pretty good chunk of change.
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My wheels were rotted to hell. No saving them.

I was going to fill mine with washer fluid. 55gal per tire. Local auto parts store should carry them. Small pump and a fitting. That was going to be cheaper for me.

But I have a Woods9000 backhoe, so going to use it for a season to see if thats enough weight itself.
 
woods said:
My wheels were rotted to hell. No saving them.

I was going to fill mine with washer fluid. 55gal per tire. Local auto parts store should carry them. Small pump and a fitting. That was going to be cheaper for me.

But I have a Woods9000 backhoe, so going to use it for a season to see if thats enough weight itself.
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Don't need a pump or a fitting. Lay tire flat, break bead with the tractor (forks, bucket, whatever) then just pour the **** on the tire and it flows right in.
Air up and profit.
 
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Muckin_Slusher said:
Don't need a pump or a fitting. Lay tire flat, break bead with the tractor (forks, bucket, whatever) then just pour the **** on the tire and it flows right in.
Air up and profit.
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Eh, that too.
 
woods said:
My wheels were rotted to hell. No saving them.

I was going to fill mine with washer fluid. 55gal per tire. Local auto parts store should carry them. Small pump and a fitting. That was going to be cheaper for me.

But I have a Woods9000 backhoe, so going to use it for a season to see if thats enough weight itself.
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Local junkyard will give you junk coolant. Won't freeze, will still have enough additives to prevent rust. Even when those are gone it will still be better than water.
 
Beet juice sucks.
had it in the rear tires of my 318 garden tractor , so sticky it ****ed up the valve stems , and a friggin stinky sticky mess to deal with.
 
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JR4X said:
If you have a big tractor, it’s dumb NOT to put fluid in the rear tires. You have a giant empty space in the exact place you want a bunch of extra weight. It makes a huge improvement in capability.
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If I have a big tractor and it's not pulling hard enough I'll hang more cast iron or switch to an even bigger tractor.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
62lbs vs 490lbs cuft. Sure, it's better than no weight, but you can't get near the ballast as hanging steel weight.
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Do you even have a tractor? WTF are you talking about 62 pounds? An 18.4-30 holds 90 gallons each. Calcium chloride is 11 pounds a gallon. That’s 990 pounds per tire. 1980 extra traction pounds in the exact location you want it and doesn’t take any space. I think you’re talk lawn mower and I’m talking real tractor.
 
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ya. 55gal of washer fluid is ~450lb.

I mean...water is 8.34lb/gal....
 
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