Build CJ5 wild stretch and full build (Judy)

Thanks fellas. Yup. Just for templates so I can have the glass made. Sucks that I have to have all 8 windows made. I'll be making (and marking for which windows) lexan for all of them. Hopefully the glass shop doesn't take me over the coals for it. I figured templates will make their life easier and hopefully mine a little cheaper.
 
I’ll tell you what happened to me in hopes you have better luck.

I made the plywood templates. They fit pretty dam good. The wood doesn’t slide up and down as easy as glass or lexan. I gave the templates to the glass shop. This shop doesn’t actually do the tempered glass. They send it out to some outfit in Atlanta. (I think) I thought they cut the glass there and send it out for the hardening. They actually sent my templetes out.

Anyways, when I got the glass back, I didn’t get the templetes back. They said they didn’t know I wanted them back. I figured I’ll just trace them out on cardboard. When I got them home, one of them didn’t fit very good. I figured I F’ed up and made a new templete. This time I told them I wanted it back. When it came back, the glass didn’t fit again. It did fit the templete. I tried the templete and it didn’t fit the same way. I was dumbfounded.

Then I got looking at the templete and it appears that they sanded the edge of the templete to match the glass. (That they already made wrong). The glass shop said they don’t think the big outfit would do that. WTF. So I finally made another templete and traced it out on cardboard before giving it to them. So now I had a copy. This one came back good.

Could be I’m full of **** and I just did a bad job, but I would keep a copy.
 
You can't cut tempered glass, so it needs to be cut and sent to a company who tempers glass or your glass company will send the patterns to the tempering company and they will cut and temper and send it back to your company, just like WaterH stated in his case. Also Tempering can distort the glass, but that's more of a problem on big pieces vs smaller pieces, but still you can be unlucky and get a piece or pieces that won't work. Plus one little bump into something and it shatters. Better to use laminated glass anyway, as it can be cut by your local glass company at their shop, but they may have to order it in if they don't have the correct thickness. Also you can get it in a tinted color. And another benefit is it will not shatter into a billion pieces if broken it stays intact unless it's a major impact then it just kind of crumples up for the most part. A few pieces may come off, but it's really minor vs tempered glass. I used Laminated gray tinted glass in my door windows and will do the same for the windshield and back window when I get around to replacing those. Trust me go laminated.
 
I believe tempered is 4 times stronger than laminated. Laminated is used for windshields because it’s tougher for something to go through it and hit you. But if you bump the edge it is very easy to break. Like you mentioned, it doesn’t go into a million pieces which could be bad if you were going fast and they all came back at your face. But tempered is the accepted glass for side and rear windows.

I have custom cut laminated glass in my windshield. The edges are kind of rough and uneven because they must cut it twice. (Once on each side) It’s fine in a non moving rubber channel on the windshield. It will not ride nice in your felt window channels. (The tempered glass is nice rounded edge) Some cars use laminated glass for side windows, but they have a steel channel that forms the edge. It rides nice in the felt channel. I had a Scout II with side windows like that.
 
Tempered isn't stronger than laminated glass. Tempered is stronger than plate glass. Your choice to use plate glass, tempered glass or tempered laminated glass or plate laminated glass. But, again anything tempered will get sent out to be tempered and they will laminate it for you if you want it laminated.

WaterH, you are correct in using laminated for the windshield and your choice about the back window and door/side windows if you want to go tempered, laminated or plate glass. Plate glass breaks into big chunks and will **** you up. The two major laminations used for glass are SGP(stronger) or PVB lamination used for guardrails or skylight glass or anything where someone can fall through and you are concerned about that(like in a school, Health facilities, etc). In a guardrail example, glass with SGP will bend, but snap back into place even if the glass breaks, PVB laminated glass bends over and stays bent over when the glass breaks and with either PVB or SGP the glass stays adhered to the lamination. There's videos showing laminated glass getting hit with big weight.

Laminated glass can be tempered or non-tempered that's another decision you can make, but anything tempered has to be sent to a factory that tempers glass.

You can polish laminated tempered or non-tempered glass with a fine grit sander, but you must be very careful to not overheat the glass or it will crack/break the glass


This is a vid of Tempered Glass, Tempered with PVB lamination and Tempered with SGP lamination.



The reason I used the laminated door window glass is because our rigs tend to hit rocks, trees, etc and I didn't want 100 billion pieces of glass to deal . And with that even broken tempered glass will cut you, but not like plate glass when it breaks.
 
I was looking at laminated for all windows for security purposes, and using fine grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of necessary. Hoping to find it in a green tint to match the paint.
 
Tempered isn't stronger than laminated glass. Tempered is stronger than plate glass. Your choice to use plate glass, tempered glass or tempered laminated glass or plate laminated glass. But, again anything tempered will get sent out to be tempered and they will laminate it for you if you want it laminated.

WaterH, you are correct in using laminated for the windshield and your choice about the back window and door/side windows if you want to go tempered, laminated or plate glass. Plate glass breaks into big chunks and will **** you up. The two major laminations used for glass are SGP(stronger) or PVB lamination used for guardrails or skylight glass or anything where someone can fall through and you are concerned about that(like in a school, Health facilities, etc). In a guardrail example, glass with SGP will bend, but snap back into place even if the glass breaks, PVB laminated glass bends over and stays bent over when the glass breaks and with either PVB or SGP the glass stays adhered to the lamination. There's videos showing laminated glass getting hit with big weight.

Laminated glass can be tempered or non-tempered that's another decision you can make, but anything tempered has to be sent to a factory that tempers glass.

You can polish laminated tempered or non-tempered glass with a fine grit sander, but you must be very careful to not overheat the glass or it will crack/break the glass


This is a vid of Tempered Glass, Tempered with PVB lamination and Tempered with SGP lamination.



The reason I used the laminated door window glass is because our rigs tend to hit rocks, trees, etc and I didn't want 100 billion pieces of glass to deal . And with that even broken tempered glass will cut you, but not like plate glass when it breaks.


Had not heard of laminated tempered glass. I guess there’s no reason they can laminate it. I wonder how available/expensive it is?

If you don’t want to deal with million pieces of tempered glass, you can just tint it. The tint holds it together like laminate. (For the most part)

I was looking at laminated for all windows for security purposes, and using fine grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of necessary. Hoping to find it in a green tint to match the paint.

If security is the goal, you could get that laminated glass that has chicken wire in it. That would look cool also. lol.
 
Had not heard of laminated tempered glass. I guess there’s no reason they can laminate it. I wonder how available/expensive it is?

If you don’t want to deal with million pieces of tempered glass, you can just tint it. The tint holds it together like laminate. (For the most part)



If security is the goal, you could get that laminated glass that has chicken wire in it. That would look cool also. lol.
I looked. Security glass is only available in 3/16 and up and at least twice as expensive.
 
I just got a cheat sheet for what we pay for PVB laminated glass in 1/8", 3/16" & 1/4" Annealed/Annealed is $9.45/sqft and Tempered/Tempered is $11.45/sqft, so I'd guess if your local glass place is getting close to the same price then you might pay double that per sqft or more. There could be a 3 sqft minimum per piece price, so be prepared if your pieces are smaller than 3 sqft you will get charged for 3 sqft. Plus you will pay to have it cut. So all in all not cheap vs 1/4" plate glass which runs about $4.00/sqft + cutting and polishing. Your glass company should be able to do the polishing for you.
 
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Have not had much time to work on this lately. Trying to finish my bachelor's degree by June, took on a new position at work and business stuff has been in the way. But here we are. Drivers side panel is almost wrapped up. Front mounting is in, will work on full inner mounting as time permits. Then it's the arm rest and mechanism cover. Need to order plexi for templates and prep for glass. But mi basically there.
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Whats the degree in? The end always seems to be the worst, everyone is tired and just wants to be done.
 
Whats the degree in? The end always seems to be the worst, everyone is tired and just wants to be done.
Business management. It's what I've been doing for the past several years anyway, but the degree will just give me more mobility. I was originally going to finish my engineering degree, but time for classes and on site labs would have killed me. I shifted to business since every senior engineer I know is a manager anyway. Seemed like the logical thing to do for my career arc.
 
Business management. It's what I've been doing for the past several years anyway, but the degree will just give me more mobility. I was originally going to finish my engineering degree, but time for classes and on site labs would have killed me. I shifted to business since every senior engineer I know is a manager anyway. Seemed like the logical thing to do for my career arc.
Oh Bull****.

You went for gender studies. Fkn liar. :flipoff2:
 
Got some time in on the doors this weekend. Finished the inner panel and fully mounted it.
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layout for the arm rest and the mechanism cover
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4 state trucks had some really nice Peterbilt window cranks. They were about all I could find for a square drive window crank with a front screw mount. But they're real metal and very solid.
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bent up the drivers side armrest.
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bent up the closure plate, bent a 90 into the surround, and then used a shrinker to match the shape
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here you can see the shrinking a little better. It was fairly extreme.
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started welding. Full seam on the closure panel. Still needs some shaping and trimming. These are the last pieces.
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i ordered the rest of the weatherstripping for the fixed windows, and some lexan for templates.
 
Looking fantastic as always. Have you ever weighed a door yet? They look like they should be heavy, but being alum maybe not.
The front doors on my jku are pretty damn heavy, the rear ain't too bad.
 
Looking fantastic as always. Have you ever weighed a door yet? They look like they should be heavy, but being alum maybe not.
The front doors on my jku are pretty damn heavy, the rear ain't too bad.
Haven't weighed them, but they feel lighter than the steel shells that are half the size. But they also don't have glass in them yet either.
 
No pictures, but I did sneak some time on it last night. Managed to fully weld one end cap on the arm rest and finish shaping the cover plate.

Had to reweld a seam, it got brittle and cracked during shaping because I was in a hurry and didn't re-anneal.

Started sanding on both pieces. Trying to wrap this door up asap, the fixed windows weatherstripping and lexan are on the way to build the glass templates. Want to get this thing ready for teardown and paint.

At this point in the year, it's going to get too hot to paint until September or October, so that gives me time to tear down, sand blast, epoxy prime, seam seal, bodywork, reprime (Lol) and then be ready for paint. I'll probably epoxy coat the frame, paint everything in the drivetrain and install and have the body ready for paint on a cool, dry morning.

Also gives me time to go through the engine and trans and install all the goodies that have been patiently waiting. I'm ready to be "done"
 
Actually did some stuff today. Close to wrapping up the drivers door. Need to install the interior release and the padded armrest bracket.
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weatherstripping (wipers) were installed with rivets. I'll end up drilling them out for paint, but wanted to make sure they fit, and that the window templates would slide freely in the channels.
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Its getting awfully close to paint prep time.
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started on the window templates. I'll end up installing everything in lexan with weatherstripping toale sure everything fits well. I need to find a better method for this stuff though. It took me a long time to get the lock strip in place.
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just more shots of how it looks with a window in it, the seal fits well with the 1/8 inch lexan, but I'll probably have to do 3/16 glass to make the seals fully fit when I have glass cut.
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I managed to cut all the glass templates today, but only got around to installing 3 of them. I was able to cut and trim w more seals, but it all time consuming.
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there really isn't much left after this before paint. I have to make a few small brackets to finish the weatherstripping surrounds for the doors and that's it. Fab work is basically done. One more teardown and lots of rounds of primer and paint coming soon.
 
Fully functional doors on both sides! Man I'm stoked. A couple more small brackets and the fab work is done!
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thats as far down as the windows will roll. The mechanism kinda sucks. The windows have gotten so much larger the front of the glass wants to tilt down first , so you have to assist them up and down, but they work and seal.
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All my templates got put in today. They all fit. Some need a little trimming, some should have been made a hair longer, but they all fit and I added notes to each one for the glass cutter.
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these little porthole windows are a bitch. The corner radius' are. Very tight and it made it horrible to put the seal in, but the seal fits and they aren't weird/bulgy in the corners. I have about 500 bucks in glass seals and sponge rubber specialty seals to seal the top to the body, and about another 150 in door seals and the stuff for the gullwings. The windows channel runners and wipers.were.anothet 400 or so. So about a grand to seal the whole jeep. Which isn't terrible.
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