Jeep Comanche koh 4600 build

Can you post pictures of the interior side with the pedal setup?
Here’s the pics with some details on them. I modified the stock auto pedal setup and an 80’s xj manual pedal setup to make the Wilwood master fit the busted knuckle 9:1 arm using all oem hardware. Wasn’t bad to do. I cut off the old brake pedal piece that used the large bolt and bushings and reused that inside the busted knuckle pedal by drilling out the pedal to whatever the od was. I modified the oem bolt by facing it down and drilling and tapping it to mount the clutch pedal to. The oem clutch pedal was from a 97-01. I used the old brake pedal switch to work with the new pedal too. Everything is in double shear like the factory so not worried about bending a bolt. I also cut a 5/8 section out of the new pedal and z bent it to give more foot space since it used to be straight and interfered with the clutch pedal.
 

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Got the intake done and made an aluminum piece to take up the space where the heater core was and passed the aluminum intake tubes into the cab. Made a mount that holds the aluminum intake and filter on the inside of the car to keep most of the dirt out of it. Eventually will do a UMP filter where this filter is for desert racing but for now it’s getting this setup. Also got the power steering cooler mounted and lines ran and got the new Fragola 12an feed line and its angle alignment is perfect for the new Resevoir mount. Should have no problems with this setup. Also got the throttle cable installed and ran the Tcase and manual trans vent lines into the engine bay and back down to the belly pan. It’s the orange 3/8 airline from harbor freight. Been using airline for vent lines for years as a 50’ roll is $15. Got the speedo gear in and the pickup installed into the atlas transfer case. I’ll be showing the rear suspension next and plan on getting some flack for my setup 😂😂😂
 

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Here’s the pics with some details on them. I modified the stock auto pedal setup and an 80’s xj manual pedal setup to make the Wilwood master fit the busted knuckle 9:1 arm using all oem hardware. Wasn’t bad to do. I cut off the old brake pedal piece that used the large bolt and bushings and reused that inside the busted knuckle pedal by drilling out the pedal to whatever the od was. I modified the oem bolt by facing it down and drilling and tapping it to mount the clutch pedal to. The oem clutch pedal was from a 97-01. I used the old brake pedal switch to work with the new pedal too. Everything is in double shear like the factory so not worried about bending a bolt. I also cut a 5/8 section out of the new pedal and z bent it to give more foot space since it used to be straight and interfered with the clutch pedal.
Awesome, this will be great future reference
 
Decided the racecar deserved a shop to be finished in, 24x36 shop in the backyard
Badass!! My 30x40 just got finished working on walls and electrical now. Yours looks like a Cold Formed building as well? It's yours from ACT Buildings?

It's definitely nice having concrete to work on now. Laying on rock sucked 🤣🤣
 

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Badass!! My 30x40 just got finished working on walls and electrical now. Yours looks like a Cold Formed building as well? It's yours from ACT Buildings?

It's definitely nice having concrete to work on now. Laying on rock sucked 🤣🤣
heck yes! i wanted to go bigger but decided to go this size as i still have a 30' long attached garage. definitely regret that decision now but i also have room to do a 15x24 extension onto the side if i wanted to... it was a cold form building but fairly heavy duty. its all 1/8" 3x8 c channel double butted to make 6x8 columns and headers, and i agree working on rock sucked and i was tired of laying on concrete outside so now i lay on concrete inside!!
 
heck yes! i wanted to go bigger but decided to go this size as i still have a 30' long attached garage. definitely regret that decision now but i also have room to do a 15x24 extension onto the side if i wanted to... it was a cold form building but fairly heavy duty. its all 1/8" 3x8 c channel double butted to make 6x8 columns and headers, and i agree working on rock sucked and i was tired of laying on concrete outside so now i lay on concrete inside!!
Yeah mine is a Cold Formed building as well. Definitely beefy!! I'm pretty sure the building can support a ceiling mounted beam and roller with a chain host for unloading axles and motors from the truck lol
MJ is looking badass man!! You should show it off at Motherload Rock Crawlers show in Jackson Saturday!! I'll have Sarge and the Mini Willys there.
 
Onto the rear suspension. I started off with SOA on stock leafs and liked the height but had 2” uptravel and decent droop which is great for a crawler but not a go fast ultra 4 car. Then looked at lift leafs but didn’t want this to have 8-10” lift and have the 6” up travel I was shooting for. I wanted to keep it relatively low so I can go portals down the road and have uptravel. I played around with all sorts of different shackle setups and being limited to not cutting the frame and frenching the leafs up higher to run an arched leaf due to class rules I had to get creative. Worked with Deaver on a custom pack and got a 60” spring made with 10” free standing arch. Basically a pre runner ranger spring but longer. Started mocking it up as a SOA and hated the height. Did think of going SUA like Jesse Haines in his Roxor that won but he was on portals and those aren’t in the budget yet. I’ve talked to 74 weld now and they make a portal for the 05 superduty hence why I swapped the 99-04 front 60 outers to 05 so eventually I can run their 4 gear portals
 

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So new suspension idea is why not a tension shackle setups. Tons of go fast leaf setups use it and have more droop than a compression shackle. Tension shackle is also progressive spring rate as it compresses versus a compression shackle being digressive when the shackle angle goes past 45 degrees it ramps down spring rate and blows through a shock easily. The only drawback is the shackle hangers hang down and Can catch on rocks. I studied a few setups and thought I can add skid plate tubing to make it not as bad… after watching a ton of bronco videos running desolate motorsports tension shackle setups and shock angle I went for it. I used off-road designs Chevy shackle hangers and their 4.5” hd shackle. After drawing everything in cad on a 12” shock it showed I would have 5.5” up and 9” down unrestricted. Adding the skid tubes (1.5x.25wall) should help with sliding off obstacles and help when backing up on the shackle from over bending the spring when slamming on rocks. It’s still a hang up place still.
 

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I have a Ranger Deaver pack for my Comanche but plan on running SUA. How much longer is the Deaver pack you got? Ranger specs are the same length as Comanche, just the center pin is 3” off.

I like the tension setup and the skid plates. Hope it works well.
 
I have a Ranger Deaver pack for my Comanche but plan on running SUA. How much longer is the Deaver pack you got? Ranger specs are the same length as Comanche, just the center pin is 3” off.

I like the tension setup and the skid plates. Hope it works well.
I hope it works also, and the Deaver pack I got is 61” I believe with stock pin location from front bushing. A buddy and I were jumping up and down and we couldn’t get it to hit the bumps but was super smooth. I’ll have a 32 gallon fuel cell against the cab, an aluminum jack, 2 spares, a battery and tools in the back. I’ve got scales and hoping for 55% rear weight bias.
 
Got the sway bar mounted. Used a Barnes off-road steering brace that I cut 1.25” off the front and welded a 1.75x.120 wall tube to for the sway bar tube. Added two tabs so if I need to drop it it can swing down and not have to fight it if I pull a box at some point.
 

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Adding pics of the trackbar brace that ties both sides of the frame together to help not rip the track bar off the frame (yay unibody) there’s about 5/8” between the tube and bottom of oil pan. Solid mount on trackbar side and a 7/8 heim on the passenger side. Removing takes two bolts is easy if I ever need to pull a pan.
 

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I know it's already done but another great option is a Slider Box from LII. I ran them front and rear on my YJ with Rancho 44044s and my Jeep sat pretty low for what's essentially 5" lift leafs and a 2" Body lift (to clear the NV4500 with a stock tub). Flexed and Rode great too!!
 

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I know it's already done but another great option is a Slider Box from LII. I ran them front and rear on my YJ with Rancho 44044s and my Jeep sat pretty low for what's essentially 5" lift leafs and a 2" Body lift (to clear the NV4500 with a stock tub). Flexed and Rode great too!!
Thought about these but I saw one get bent on a rock and it stopped sliding bound the leaf and S bent it on compression. Always wanted to do a build with these and definitely better for clearance. I can make something up but they don’t have the droop that a tension shackle has
 
Thought about these but I saw one get bent on a rock and it stopped sliding bound the leaf and S bent it on compression. Always wanted to do a build with these and definitely better for clearance. I can make something up but they don’t have the droop that a tension shackle has
Yeah I "boxes" in the ends. I've had the whole Jeeps weight on the end of the box and had no issues.
As far as droop I can't say as I never ran a Tension shackle. But it has a ton of travel!! It's basically the equivalent of a 7" long shackle.
 
I hope it works also, and the Deaver pack I got is 61” I believe with stock pin location from front bushing. A buddy and I were jumping up and down and we couldn’t get it to hit the bumps but was super smooth. I’ll have a 32 gallon fuel cell against the cab, an aluminum jack, 2 spares, a battery and tools in the back. I’ve got scales and hoping for 55% rear weight bias.
Do the rules state you have to keep the hanger distance stock?

I got my ~59" G50 Deaver pack swung under to start mocking up, and in free arch it's several inches shorter than the stock hanger location. I'm worried at full droop I'll be inverting shackles. Not an issue with your tension setup, but I'm still curious if you retained the factory rear hanger distance - it looks moved back?
 
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Do the rules state you have to keep the hanger distance stock?

I got my ~59" G50 Deaver pack swung under to start mocking up, and in free arch it's several inches shorter than the stock hanger location. I'm worried at full droop I'll be inverting shackles. Not an issue with your tension setup, but I'm still curious if you retained the factory rear hanger distance - it looks moved back?
just has to stay leafs, originally I bought a set of cheap xj rear hangers with a bunch of holes to bring my shackle forward to get the correct shackle angle at full compression. I still have those boxes I’m keeping for another build. I’d say whack off those old shackle hangers and move them forward to keep the angle better otherwise the ride suffers and leafs bend when they go inverted
 
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just has to stay leafs, originally I bought a set of cheap xj rear hangers with a bunch of holes to bring my shackle forward to get the correct shackle angle at full compression. I still have those boxes I’m keeping for another build. I’d say whack off those old shackle hangers and move them forward to keep the angle better otherwise the ride suffers and leafs bend when they go inverted
I have a leftover XJ box as well, that’s what I was thinking of adding. Just surprised me that longer leaf needed the shackle location moved forward. I was considering the XJ front hanger to outboard the leaves and bring them up but not sure it’s worth it.
 
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