1990 Cherokee XJ Build

Oh **** I didn’t even think about that, makes sense. I have a regulator to use it as onboard air too! But, I’d use one of my little 5lb bottles for that.

Wouldn’t having 40s actually be a good reason to use those? I’ve wanted some of these Deflation Products but realistically don’t need them. I’d imagine with a set of those and a CO2 tank, you could air down and back up waaaay faster.
The regulator starts to freeze up. A compressor and the more flate setup is easier all around than a 20lb CO2 tank.

The knockoff ARB deflator tool has worked for me.
 
Got to work a little bit more on the Renix Engine Monitor (REM) gauges that I've wanted.

1774456734173.png


The architecture is pretty simple. Here's screenshots of the actual gauge output:

01_main_gauges_amber.png 05_diagnostics.png 04_transmission_aw4.png 03_main_gauges_green_vfd.png 02_relay_control_amber.png

The skins are fully customizable so, can create a bunch, or other people could create them and upload them. Use whatever pics you want.

1774474613903.png


I got one of these coming, $30, and gives you 8 relays. This can go under the hood (or wherever you want) and connects to the Pi with only 2 wires (and a ground) via RS485 (which, I don't know much about.). Then I realized that rather than bother with that protocol, there are USB equivalents, so, I may go this direction:
1774474767997.png


Either way, should be sick because this can act as the fan controller, AW4 shifter, lightbar, starter solenoid trigger, basically whatever you want. The whole thing stays open source and modular, so people can build widgets and **** for it (if there is ever any interest).

I was originally going to put this in the left-hand-side of the gauges, but now I think I might put it on the right-hand side, and replace the clock, because I really like what Nick did with the REM clock edition:

1774474922866.png


And I already have the STL files to print a clock bracket.

More to come on this shortly. The code is all written, just gotta flash a raspberry pi and test.
 
The regulator starts to freeze up. A compressor and the more flate setup is easier all around than a 20lb CO2 tank.

The knockoff ARB deflator tool has worked for me.
Not the fastest thing in the world, but these:


Drilled out a little work pretty good. Jam them all on, occasionally check tire pressure with a regular gauge, and remove when flat enough. No need to fiddlefuck with valve cores. A friend has a gauge like your link, I have these brass chingaderas, same size tire and pressure drop. I'm generally done before he is.
 
Not the fastest thing in the world, but these:


Drilled out a little work pretty good. Jam them all on, occasionally check tire pressure with a regular gauge, and remove when flat enough. No need to fiddlefuck with valve cores. A friend has a gauge like your link, I have these brass chingaderas, same size tire and pressure drop. I'm generally done before he is.
Morning air-downs in the staging line with these things going make my tinnitus sing :lmao: But yeah they work well and are stupid simple. You could probably make your own ghetto version from drilled metal valve caps and a bb
 
The ones linked don't stop at a set pressure, do they? These will keep deflating until all the air is gone vs a more expensive pair deflating to a set 10 psi.
 
IMG_0022.jpeg


Finally got things mostly put back together, figured I’d at least take it for a drive down the road to see if everything is working.

Lots is not working, lmao. My alternator is toast, which, I was actually expecting. I think the diodes were shot, I made it to the end of the street and was showing 9v, and then that’s when everything went to ****. Jeep died, so I had to grab my jumper pack out of the trunk, get it started, and try to get it home as fast as I could. But, not worried about it because I have a new, higher amp alternator waiting to swap in.

Did I mention it STILL DOESNT SHIFT?

So I’m pinned at like 3-3.5k RPM, doing maybe 20mph for about 30-45 seconds. I park and get out, look at the engine bay and my exhaust header has turned into magma, and is glowing so hot that my phone couldn’t even focus right.

I think this was a combination of ****ed sensors (had like no voltage), and having it nearly floored it 1st gear. Probably running crazy lean.

I finally broke down and dropped the tranny pan. And, I was manually triggering shift solenoids with a 12v wire, and it looks like one of my solenoids isn’t working right! The other ones have a firm, audible click. This one barely makes any noise or noticeably engages. So, that’s actually great news! Because it means something is ****ed, and now I can fix it. Even if it doesn’t change anything, at least I can rule it out.


Also, some of the only cool cars in Italy, and the Italian cops trying to hassle your boy, as usual… on DAY ONE too.
IMG_3930.jpeg IMG_3915.jpeg IMG_9586.jpeg IMG_3536.jpeg IMG_3540.jpeg IMG_9454.jpeg
 
Alright so now that it’s 75° and sunny every day, I’m thinking about tube doors.

There’s only one or two places that make tube doors for the XJ but they are either ugly or too expensive. Plus, “I know I can make them myself for 3x the price™️”

What do you guys think about 1.5” .083 wall DOM? This is what I saw on another vendors site that sells DIY kits. It seems pretty thin to me but also, I don’t know if I can bend .120 wall or thicker. (I have one of those cheap floor mounted benders but I have never used it for anything more than pretty thin flat bar) I also have a 20T press but I’d need dies.

Or, I was thinking of doing one bar across that is pretty thick, as the “main bar” and then everything else in .083”

I know they aren’t really structurally doing much work, if any, but I feel like anything super thin wall is just decorative, and it would be nice to have something that is a little beefy.

I picked up a set of 4 XJ doors (with all the glass, and power windows and door panels/switches) for $100 a year ago, too good to pass up. So, I have a bunch of extra latches and I’m thinking I can build a setup to use those. Alternatively, the autoloc bear claw latches seem like they would work?
 
Huh, my ***le on the forum changed to RBS, wonder what that is. Restless Bitch Syndrome?
 
Alright so now that it’s 75° and sunny every day, I’m thinking about tube doors.

There’s only one or two places that make tube doors for the XJ but they are either ugly or too expensive. Plus, “I know I can make them myself for 3x the price™️”

What do you guys think about 1.5” .083 wall DOM? This is what I saw on another vendors site that sells DIY kits. It seems pretty thin to me but also, I don’t know if I can bend .120 wall or thicker. (I have one of those cheap floor mounted benders but I have never used it for anything more than pretty thin flat bar) I also have a 20T press but I’d need dies.

Or, I was thinking of doing one bar across that is pretty thick, as the “main bar” and then everything else in .083”

I know they aren’t really structurally doing much work, if any, but I feel like anything super thin wall is just decorative, and it would be nice to have something that is a little beefy.

I picked up a set of 4 XJ doors (with all the glass, and power windows and door panels/switches) for $100 a year ago, too good to pass up. So, I have a bunch of extra latches and I’m thinking I can build a setup to use those. Alternatively, the autoloc bear claw latches seem like they would work?
What bender do you have? I've bent 2" conduit in a hand-powered JD2. It sucks, but it didn't have an issue with it. 1.5" 0.120 is pretty easy to bend.

But, 0.083 or 0.095 would still be way stronger than the hinges, latch and A/B pillars anyway.
 
I have a set of spare doors. My plan was just to cut them down and make them half doors. It seems like less work than tube doors to remove glass, fold the outer panel over the inner, and move the door latch mechanism.
 
I have a set of spare doors. My plan was just to cut them down and make them half doors. It seems like less work than tube doors to remove glass, fold the outer panel over the inner, and move the door latch mechanism.
Same. They’re the doors I completely raisin’d following a buddy’s Juggy through a trail. “****’ll be fine” he says… :lmao:
 
Same. They’re the doors I completely raisin’d following a buddy’s Juggy through a trail. “****’ll be fine” he says… :lmao:
Guys with XJs who go wheelin are just...different.
Sounds like your spare doors because your regular doors, and your regular doors became your half doors so you had two sets of half doors.
 
You misspelled ******ed. I'll let it slide this once. :flipoff2:

My AC works. Only 1 set of half doors please.
I need to charge mine (have any of that old stuff from the 90s?) so it works, and if I lived in So Cal I could get away with half doors year round. God damn sea-level Californians and their god damn 'not snow' weather.
 
I need to charge mine (have any of that old stuff from the 90s?) so it works, and if I lived in So Cal I could get away with half doors year round. God damn sea-level Californians and their god damn 'not snow' weather.
Sea level? ****. Just under 3000' sir.

AC is necessary for the desert though. Last trip was 105*. In March.
 
What bender do you have? I've bent 2" conduit in a hand-powered JD2. It sucks, but it didn't have an issue with it. 1.5" 0.120 is pretty easy to bend.

But, 0.083 or 0.095 would still be way stronger than the hinges, latch and A/B pillars anyway.
I have a ****ty Chinesium one I got on eBay a while ago. It bolts to the floor and then it’s got a big arm (that telescopes for leverage) to bend **** against a die.

I’m considering getting one like this: VEVOR 1-1/2\" Tubing Rolling Bender Manual Square & Rectangular Tube Bender 14 Gauge Roller Tubing Roller Flat Bar Bender For Mild Steel Cooper & Aluminum | VEVOR US

I would love one of the sick SWAG hydraulic benders but I just never use them, I can’t justify the $750.

IMG_0198.jpeg

Before I spend any more money on tools or ****ing tube doors, I have to figure out this tick issue. Sunday I took the valve cover off and had a look, if you can tell, rockers 5 and 6 (from the left) have way less oil in them. Using a piece of tubing, before I took the cover off, I could tell that’s where the sound was coming from, as when I held it on the top of the intake manifold where it meets the head, I heard it loudest right there on that same cylinder.

So, I know some guys have issues with these bolts being over tightened, I torqued them to spec (19lbs) when I put everything back together. I pulled them apart just to look, and did find a little bit of metal in the pivot on that same set:

IMG_0200.jpeg

I didn’t realize that those little channels in the pivot where the oil goes through aren’t supposed to be worn into the rocker like that, haha. So, I replaced all the rocker arms, pivots, and bridges.

IMG_0205.png

I started it up, and the noise is still there.

The noise seems to be running at cam speed, so I think it’s top-end related. I spent an hour tightening all the exhaust manifold bolts last night, didn’t help. I am almost positive it’s not an exhaust leak. It doesn’t change at all relative to engine temp, warmup, etc.

After talking to a couple of people, my leading theory is that one (or more) of the new lifters that I put in it, is bad. I bought Elgin lifters thinking they were reasonably priced and not a complete no-name Chinese offering, but they actually have really terrible reviews, now that I look. Lots of people complaining about getting 1 or 2 that don’t pump up, etc.

I need to run it without the valve cover and take a look tomorrow, but, here’s a recording of what it sounds like. I’m running new Havoline 10w-30 conventional with a bottle of ZDDP zinc supplement. This is immediately after rebuild, I’ve put maybe 1/4 mile on it, and engine has ran for a total of 10 mins or so. I really was meticulous about torquing everything to spec when I put it all back together. I even had AI create a pre-startup checklist for me just so that I didn’t get the whole thing back together and look over and see the oil pump sitting on my bench or something.


Thoughts? I’m really pissed that I may have to pull the head again, but at least this way I can replace both the cam and the lifters (instead of just the lifters) and do it without having to pull the pan off, as that is the biggest pain in the ass part.

I’m thinking either getting Crower Cam-Saver lifters ($150 a set) or just regular Crower lifters (BC8480) for $100. They seem to have good reviews and in comparison they are a tiny bit taller than OEM, which may help as my head was cut 0.008” by machine shop.

Bonus pic, I remodeled (“rentovated”) my bathroom over the last month or so. Before was just all white walls with dog**** texture all over them, and pink trim/doors everywhere, no medicine cabinet, and a 32” wide vanity with like 2 drawers. The shower surround is all peach/pink tile and I’m gonna epoxy it white next week. I ripped out all the old trim and casing around the window and redid that, new fixtures, wainscoting panels, shelving and baseboard. I’ll probably do crown as I have some left over from another project. Wish I could do the floor. Ignore the spackle and other issues, not done yet, still have to grout that backsplash also. Never grouted anything my life. Wish me luck.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0408.jpeg
    IMG_0408.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 23
  • IMG_0407.jpeg
    IMG_0407.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0406.jpeg
    IMG_0406.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 20
Video of engine running wouldn’t attach, here it is:


 
If one or two lifters are bad are you going to swap them around to see if the noise changes?
 
I have a ****ty Chinesium one I got on eBay a while ago. It bolts to the floor and then it’s got a big arm (that telescopes for leverage) to bend **** against a die.

I’m considering getting one like this: VEVOR 1-1/2\" Tubing Rolling Bender Manual Square & Rectangular Tube Bender 14 Gauge Roller Tubing Roller Flat Bar Bender For Mild Steel Cooper & Aluminum | VEVOR US

I would love one of the sick SWAG hydraulic benders but I just never use them, I can’t justify the $750.
That's a roller. You'll be there for a minute.

Surely there's a local 4x4 club or friend that has a bender?

JD2 is considerably cheaper as well:

 
I have looked a bunch and can’t find great info how are people sealing up the roof penetrations?
Silicone caulk would be my guess. A second option would be to just accept water will get in and use the metal trim like what I used on my fenders after cutting them.
 
That's a roller. You'll be there for a minute.

Surely there's a local 4x4 club or friend that has a bender?

JD2 is considerably cheaper as well:

Oops, sorry, should have looked at the link, I was just looking at the image.

I meant this style: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
 
Top Back Refresh