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Jeep Comanche koh 4600 build

****s tight on the front but all figured out for 4 tubes to fit without crushing themselves or an oil pan. Full bump and full droop with a teaser for the 304 exhaust system. Driveshaft clears by over 1.5” everywhere throughout its range of travel. Honestly the exhaust was harder to figure out routing wise for me than the links…
 

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abrogate said:
Progress looks good, but what the **** is up with the death trap axle stands?! That’s…creative 😁
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Which ones? The wood ones or the ones with nuts? There’s barely any weight on them, the chassis is fully supported and those are holding axle weight only 😂
 
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Tryloff said:
The ones on the dollys with a block and nut between the stand and axle is what caught my eye.
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Those are holding axle weight only, chassis weight is supported by 4 large stands at bumpers under frame.
 
Kohmanche said:
Started mocking the Wilwood/Branik brake kit and brake lines. Got the limit straps done and welded on the trackbar frame bracket and the trackbar cross bar to other side of frame to tie the two sides of the unibody together for the beat down this is going to take. Overall with a short body 12” shock I’m sitting at 6” uptravel 5” droop bumped and strapped. With how low this will be fitting a 14” shock was not possible unless they drag in the rocks and I’ll take the sacrifice for now
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Details on the shocks or a link to what you went with?
 
fl0w3n said:
Details on the shocks or a link to what you went with?
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I went with radflo 2.5x12 and got some ADS 2.5x12. Did bottom feeds on them all and had them bench tuned for now by liberty mountain fab. These are the super short rears and fronts are similar in design. I have a brand new pair of radflow 2.5x12 remote reservoir I’m not using now since I got the ADS. They are the ones mounted in the pic
 

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It wasn't mine, just a complete Comanche localish for $1k, but the side of the cab was hammered.
 
fl0w3n said:
It was in that Facebook link, looks like it’s pending now.

That’s a damn good price! I paid $800 for this Comanche and it was 100% complete and turned over but roof was smashed in. I do have spar roofs though 😂
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More updates. Main body painted and exo cage portion fully welded and painted and back on. Working on seat mounts and x brace. Front suspension done-ish. Did a dual spring setup with a 250lb 6” eibach mated to a synergy spring. @ ride height I have 1.5” of up travel on the 6” 250lb then transitions to the main spring. With 4.5” left. Sitting at 6” uptravel at ride height in front. Rear is 6” uptravel with 8” droop
 

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are you going to tie the seat bar to the tunnel and hoop it over to the other side or just dead end it at the tunnel?

Never seen a dual spring setup like that other than coil over, that’s cool.
 
fl0w3n said:
are you going to tie the seat bar to the tunnel and hoop it over to the other side or just dead end it at the tunnel?

Never seen a dual spring setup like that other than coil over, that’s cool.
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The plan is to take a 6”x1/8”x 8” long piece of steel and stitch weld it to the side to spread the load. I’m also doing a piece of 1.5” dom going straight down from the bottom to the floor to take most the vertical load off the tunnel. If I have room I will connect the tubes but it’s tight with all the shifters and handbrake
 
Inner cage is complete with tie in bars going to front bumper through firewall, Doorbars, x brace, seat mounts and seat belt mounts all done. The seat mounts are 1x2 3/16 wall as it’s all I had and worked out great with the corbeau mounts I had. Tied the front seat bar to the 1/8” plate and added another down bar stitch welded to the bottom of floor pan with a tab mount. Cage is 2” .120 wall and was a pain in the ass to make lol
 

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High steer on the TJ/XJ/ZJ/MJ front end is a bitch. I set mine up and had like 1/16" MAYBE to clear all the things at full bump/lock. It is crazy how long that took for me. You look like you have a nice setup :)
 
abrogate said:
Turned out nice. Is the bolt for the drivers seat front right mount as tough to install as it looks or is that an illusion?
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I welded nuts to the bottom of those mounts before it got welded, the seat mounts bolt down and the seats are side mounts. Really easy to install everything. I did this with the mindset of “during a race, how hard will it be to do xyz” everything on this took a lot of time but the end result is I can access everything easy.
 
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D_JEEPER said:
High steer on the TJ/XJ/ZJ/MJ front end is a bitch. I set mine up and had like 1/16" MAYBE to clear all the things at full bump/lock. It is crazy how long that took for me. You look like you have a nice setup :)
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Yeah it was a lot of work and hell yeah, do you have a link to your build?
 
Welp… didn’t make koh. I went with the mall crawler but the Comanche stayed home and probably for the best. Had great seats for the 4400 race though!!

I Had parts show up that were wrong and called it. No excuses but ran out of time and decided I didn’t want to donate the sheet metal to an improperly setup Jeep at the hardest race with no car tuning. I’ll have all year to tune and run the NorCal rock racing series and tune and go play wheel and tune and learn this chassis. Moonrocks for memorial and rubicon/fordyce/slickrock will be on the agenda this year.
 

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Been a little since I last updated. Been busy working on my house, lath inspection got done and did the scratch and brown coat. That’s signed off and had time for the jeep so I started working on a few things to keep progress moving forward. Redoing the power steering pump location as I didn’t like how angled down the inlet was on the pump. Making a lowering bracket that will move the pump down 4” and over 4” and rotate counterclockwise about 45-60 degrees. Got the trans filled with fluid and the shifter mounted. Got an orange shift ball to go with the orange wheels and wrapped the exhaust. I also added anodized aluminum with fiberglass heat insulation all around the transmission and the inside tunnel to keep some heat away from us. And bent the drag link a little more so now it’s “centered” for all the angle it sees. It’s level at ride height and has clearance throughout all suspension travel and no more bind 🙌🏼🙌
 

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Relocated the power steering pump down about 5” down using a factory 80’s xj pump bracket. Was surprisingly easy to fab up. The threaded post goes into the upper hole on the water pump and literally all fell into place. Modified the factory tensioner to go on where the ac bracket is and pretty happy with the result. Should not have to many issues getting fluid to the pump as the fittings are on the same plan and has about a 10” long hose with 1 large radius in it. I deserve all this headache from me raising the motor up 1” to give me 1” more uptravel…
 

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Assuming the reason for pump relocation is just to get it down lower so you don’t need to run your resi up so high?

I have mine way up by the brake booster and still had to notch the inner hood bracing.

Also, what’s the scoop on your brake setup? Manual brakes? I need a nice compact setup like that real bad!
 
TxBxSx said:
Assuming the reason for pump relocation is just to get it down lower so you don’t need to run your resi up so high?

I have mine way up by the brake booster and still had to notch the inner hood bracing.

Also, what’s the scoop on your brake setup? Manual brakes? I need a nice compact setup like that real bad!
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i hated the location PSC wanted to mount the reservoir and had issues with cavitation and burning out pumps years ago on another vehicle. i wanted to lower the pump an shorten the feed line and this worked out great. the res will literally be on top now and a very short hose mounted to the motor so i won't have to worry about the hose pulling away when the motor moves around.


i went with a lightweight Branik motorsports 6 piston Willwood caliper with aluminum top hats matched to a 4 piston rear lightweight sterling setup i have a Willwood single out master cylinder with a 2 psi residual valve after the t split going to just the front brakes since they are unit bearings. the rear doesn't need the residual valve. i have an inline Willwood proportioning valve in the cab that i can easily reach to adjust and a Willwood pass through master cylinder with grab handle for a rear cutting brake. i have busted knuckle offroad help me pick out the master cylinder bore size based off surface area of the calipers and rotor size of 14" and they were super helpful. i picked the master cylinder size off the recommendation of using their 9:1 pedal assembly that i made a custom firewall mount to adapt it to the Willwood master. i have not used the brakes yet but according to busted knuckle it is the same brake setup they run on their 43" tall SX stickie rock bouncers and i am on 35" tall DOTS and should have more brake than i need even being a manual setup. not sure how spongey or hard they will be yet as i am still working on the interior routing of tcase cable shifters and hoon handle.
 

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Sweet. I started digging last night and spoke with willwood today. I didn't see a 9:1 pedal on busted knuckles site, but I was looking at setting up a dual 7/8" mc set up on a 10:1 pedal from willwood.

I haven't had a chance to go pull measurements to see if there is enough room for that pedal, but this gives me confidence as it looks like you still have a little room to move that mc up on the firewall.
 
TxBxSx said:
Sweet. I started digging last night and spoke with willwood today. I didn't see a 9:1 pedal on busted knuckles site, but I was looking at setting up a dual 7/8" mc set up on a 10:1 pedal from willwood.

I haven't had a chance to go pull measurements to see if there is enough room for that pedal, but this gives me confidence as it looks like you still have a little room to move that mc up on the firewall.
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try this link to their pedal. the 9:1 is long and 10 might be too long to where the firewall hole was. i modified all the existing clutch/brake pedal hanger to work with everything. i was going to do the wildwood dual master with pedal and it looked like i wouldn't be able to keep the clutch pedal with it..


bustedknuckleoffroad.com

BKOR 9:1 Ratio Forward Pedal

This BKOR forward swing brake pedal allows you to gain valuable brake leverage. If you have manual brakes or are designing a new manual brake system pedal leverage is extremely important. Our pedals are designed with a 9:1 pedal ratio that is really the sweet spot in pedal design. Our pedal...
bustedknuckleoffroad.com bustedknuckleoffroad.com
 
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