Build 09 Tacoma 3link/Vortec swap pt.2

apimpdad

apimpdad

I hate everything
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
1033
Messages
198
Loc
Lakeland, FL
New build using parts from the totaled old build....

2009 Tacoma 5-lug with 274k miles, decent Econo paint job and a pristine frame and undercarriage (bedsides are meh, gonna get roached at some point anyway...). Runs and drives great!

A lot of this will be copy and paste stuff, except for the front getting links, which was already in the plans with the old truck.

Again, for the the instagram people, I will be keeping track of the build on there as well as many other projects I have. Instagram is allen.fab

Powertrain:
  • Gen 4 5.3 Vortec/LS
  • TSP Stage 3 low lift truck cam (216/220 .550/.550 112 LSA)
  • 243 heads
  • Summit LS swap SS headers
  • 2.5" SS Y-pipe
  • 18" SS Vibrant Resonator
  • 3.5" Street Max Stainless 22x11 muffler
  • 4L60E transmission
  • TransGo HD2 Reprogramming kit
  • NP241C transfer case
  • Tom Woods slip yoke eliminator
  • Tom Woods Front/Rear 1350 Double Cardon driveshafts
  • Derale 40K transmission cooler
  • BP Automotive engine controller kit
  • Summit Racing LS swap radiator
  • (2) 12” SPAL electric fans

Axle:
  • 99-04 Super Duty Dana 60 front, Sterling 10.5 rear
  • 4.56 Gears
  • Yukon Grizzly lockers
  • Yukon Rear diff cover
  • Warn Premium locking hubs

Steering:
  • Toyota IFS box tapped for Hydro-assist
  • Factory GM Steering pump
  • Summit Racing 20" heat sink cooler
  • Borgeson Steering shaft and joints
  • Weaver fab machined knuckle and arm for crossover
  • RuffStuff steering links, Chevy 1-ton TRE's, offset TRE's on tie rod
  • Sky flat pitman arm

Suspension:
Front:
  • 3-Link
  • 12"x2.5 Fox Factory Coilovers w/Resi's
  • Eibach coils 200/225
  • King 2"x2.0 Bumps

Rear:
  • Chevy 63" 3-leaf
  • Bilstein 5125 14" shocks
  • Ruffstuff swap kit w/5" shackles
  • Ruffstuff U-bolt flip kit
  • Daystar Poly bump stops

Wheel/Tire:
  • 37x12.50R17 Yokohama Geolander G003
  • 17x8 Black Rock Steel wheels 4.5" BS
  • TMI 3/16" rock rings

Interior:
  • Autometer Ultra-lite 2 fuel, transmission, oil pressure, and water temp gauges
  • Scangauge III

Misc.:
  • Dyno tuned by Omar @ Mid Florida Dyno
  • JB Customs T-case shifter
  • Rock Sliders
  • High clearance rear bumper
  • 08 Tundra Brake Booster
  • 1-1/4" GM master cylinder (ACDELCO 18M364)
  • Trail-Toys GM MC adapter kit
  • 1987 Blazer 25 gal. fuel tank
  • Walbro/TI Automotive 255 fuel pump
  • Smittybilt 10K X20 winch w/synthetic rope
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Last edited:
Getting right to it...

Had the front frame section (3x2x.1875" wall) built since the beginning of the year, so got that fit right up and welded out. 1/8" on the fish plates...

I cut the old trans crossmember off of the old truck and then raised the powertrain into place, measured out on the frame exactly where it was before, and welded it in. I built the frame side motor mounts to fit the new frame...


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Last edited:
Hodgiemoto said:
Well alrighty then!

I guess a body swap was not feasable? Gonna let the wife drive this one? Too soon:homer:?
Click to expand...
She's been banned from driving :flipoff2:

Few of reasons for building the new frame....

1) almost certain the old one was twisted/bent. Driver rear sat over an inch lower than any other corner after the wreck.
2) Was going to have to chop the front behind the frenched shackle mounts on the old frame when I decided to link it... more frame to build and graft together...
3) Very close to building an entirely new frame out of 4x2 rectangle tube. While the cleanest option, it was more work than I wanted....

I was able to cut a ton of stuff off the old frame to re-use (rear spring and shackle mounts, transmission crossmember, two of the four rear frame box plates, complete fuel tank crossmembers)... so everything was almost drop-in ready for the new frame, and I didn't have to chop as much off the front section... So taking the route I did I believe was the quickest and most economical option
 
Tried to be slick and use the old, already thinned engine bay harness in this truck.... only to realize after swapping them that they were just different enough that it wouldn't work...

So I thinned out the new truck harness and got it in. I had to tap in a wire to the brake light switch from the motor harness and found out someone had been in there already. 2 of the 4 brake wires were stripped completely bare over a ft. and the other two were just tied and taped in with green replacements. The factory gas pedal harness had also been ****ed and all of its wires were cut and tied (all with green wires too :homer:). Factory pedal harness doesn't get used luckily so all that was just cut out and removed. I spliced in the good plug and section of harness from the red truck into the new one and that was all for the engine harness/dash/motor harness/ECU/Fuse box stuff.

Small bonus: added a blue dummy light for the brights, as I couldn't find that wire on the old truck. Also, things like the dome light now come on and off with the doors opening/closing, a/c and shifter lighting work on this truck

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Moving along....


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Everything up front is mostly set. Going to cycle it again this week to double check things. Things are TIGHT at full stuff but everything clears. I was shooting for 6" of up-travel and I believe I have achieved that. I opted to drop down the steering box instead of going to a drop pitman to get steering/panhard angles as flat as possible. The axle is sitting a little further back than on the red truck and the steering box is wayy further back as well.

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The second time around has been a lot easier no doubt lol. My goal is to have it wheelable by the end of the year, which I think is realistic at this pace. I don't want to miss out on another cool-weather wheeling season.

Bumps showed up today so the only real purchase left is the coilovers and rear shocks. I've already decided on KIngs, 2.5x12" with the obvious resi's for the front and 2.5x14" resi smooth bodies for the rear..... but do I need adjusters? I realistically never see myself ****ing with them as long as they are valved good from the start, so should I save a few bucks there? Also still undecided on where to order and get them valved from
 
Bebop said:
Why?
Fox are better all around
Click to expand...
Better enough to make me run mismatched shocks and bumps?? :flipoff2:

In all seriousness though, planned on buying a used set of cheap king coilovers local to tear apart and learn on and wanted to keep everything matching but the coilovers sold. I might be convinced to run something else if I really see its worth the extra $$$
 
Bebop said:
accutuneoffroad.com

Fox vs King 2.0 Coilover: Find out who makes the best shock

Our in-depth comparison reveals who builds the best 2.0 Coilover by analyzing their real world performance. We looked at their durability, quality and performance on the shock dyno to provide fresh insights into which shock is right for you.
accutuneoffroad.com accutuneoffroad.com
Click to expand...
Undeniable Fox is the superior. So same question as before, but with Fox instead. Factory series 2.5x12” w/resi, are adjusters worth the extra ~$400?

50% street
20% slow rocks
20% mild trails
10% somewhat high speed off-road?


Quick price ref. Without springs
King no adj. ~$1350 w/$1760
Fox no adj. ~$1990 w/$2350
 
Clickers are only good IMO if you have big variations in weight.
For a JLUR that will go from 1 driver empty to 4 people + bags I would say yes.
 
Everything on the axle is officially done. Added bump pads, shock mounts, welded upper link mount, and finished the panhard mount. On the frame side, panhard mount is boxed, bump cans are welded on, motor mount trimmed at full bump, and some of the link mounts have been welded.

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Now on to the towers....

3/16" plate, about 80% done. Spent some time ****ing with the steering shaft but it all clears fine. Firewall plate made as well, just have to find a suitable gasket for it...

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I am going to trim the top of the driver side up in hopes of making enough clearance to slide forward and remove the MC and/or booster if I ever have to. But here you can see the shaft to tower and coil clearance
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Towers will get more metal added to them on the outside along with a tower brace going across the engine. Maybe sitting on weight by next weekend????

Oh and I have been keeping track of my hours, and so far to this point in the pics, I am at 105 hours..... I wanted to see how much I am saving in labor lol
 
This is looking great!
Maybe add triangular gussets under the lower coilover mounts to give it some extra support.
 
All welding on the front suspension is done and painted. Going to end up with 5” of up-travel at ~23” frame height. Upper springs and limit straps are on their way and I will tub the fenders before that stuff goes in.

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Got the truck spun around and started on the bumper, as I want it in place to hold the frame solid when I do the rear suspension and cut out the old spare tire crossmember for the gas tank. Wanted this one to be lighter than the last and to hang down a little lower to help hide the gas tank from view (weird gripe I know). Plus, I needed a break from suspension work…

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