Jeep Comanche koh 4600 build

Dropped the aw4 and Dana 300 in with the ironman4x4 belly. Pretty much said no to all of it and swapped in a manual ax15/atlas with 3:1 gears and modified the belly pan link mounts to get my preferred link geometry in front. Made new lower mounts and a custom double-double shear upper link. It ties into the unibody for extra rigidity since I plan on beating this thing hard
 

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Needed a good tube notcher so I made a tool holder to hold .75”-2” diameter tubing so I can use my lathe to notch tubing. Works really well! It has a v at the bottom of the tube to center whatever is in there and uses two 1/2” bolts to hold the tub down. I have infinite degrees, above or below centerline and can drink beer while it’s power feeding so that’s a win win
 

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Picked up a 35 gallon fuel cell and will be making a new aluminum top plate for it and got a alternator relocation bracket from eBay. Definitely will help to change on the trail being higher and keep it out of the water for the most part.
 

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Rear truss welded on, leaf mounts cut and lowered as far as possible to keep lift low and bump mounts done. Rear axle gears done, Mocked up shock lower and upper at the same time and decided to have liberty mountain make some custom short shocks with bottom feed resi shocks for packaging. I’ll show this later.
 

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Rear gears done, ended up welding up the stock rear 10.5 3pin carrier for now. One day I’ll buy a Detroit for it. Axle back in and set pinion angle and shock mount angles. Fully welded and setup rear axle at full bump with a wheel on it to look at it. Have the roof off as I’m changing it for a good one and started the partial exocage
 

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Tag the owners, I’ve looked at tons of xj/mj’s for inspiration on cage design. Wanted the a pillar to b pillar to be exo due to head room with helmets. Finally decided on what I wanted and came up with a plan. More pics to come of cage
 

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Needed a good tube notcher so I made a tool holder to hold .75”-2” diameter tubing so I can use my lathe to notch tubing. Works really well! It has a v at the bottom of the tube to center whatever is in there and uses two 1/2” bolts to hold the tub down. I have infinite degrees, above or below centerline and can drink beer while it’s power feeding so that’s a win win
agreed more info on this set up. i see on the market place all the time used lathes, some cheap because they are missing tools or what not. my use would be doing something like this and making drive shafts. very cool idea
 
agreed more info on this set up. i see on the market place all the time used lathes, some cheap because they are missing tools or what not. my use would be doing something like this and making drive shafts. very cool idea
I made a custom notcher years ago for a drill press and that works flawlessly except for 1.75-2” tubing. Used hole saw still and when you need long notches hole saws suck. I’ll take pics of that setup. Just a standard harbor freight drill press and a custom aluminum adapter instead of the round table
 
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Curious are you keeping the factory steering column, looks like a tilt column. I’m sick of the janky tilt mechanism but non-tilts are rare and expensive
 
Curious are you keeping the factory steering column, looks like a tilt column. I’m sick of the janky tilt mechanism but non-tilts are rare and expensive
Aren't they the same as GM steering columns?
 
Aren't they the same as GM steering columns?
My understanding is the electronic modules are, but dimensions or at least mount bracket is different.

If it’s just the mount that doesn’t seem like a huge hurdle to overcome. But if the GM column is different length that sounds annoying to deal with.
 
Curious are you keeping the factory steering column, looks like a tilt column. I’m sick of the janky tilt mechanism but non-tilts are rare and expensive
I am using a 97+ column and all wiring from an xj. Wanted to run obd2 for tuning. Column will have have all wiring to it except key start will be push button. Trying to keep turn signals and street legal if possible.
 
Started the cage. Rolled all the tubes to match window and roof curve for a tight fit. Everything is 1/4”, 1/2”, or 1” gap
 

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More cage pics. B pillar will be inside with tube intersections inside and outside. Will be cutting the top curved tube flush and welding a spreader between c/b pillar. Half doors are mostly done and window nets are made and in. Made heavy duty mirror mounts on the door to take brush hits in the desert
 

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Cage is pulled now for welding and b pillar, harness bar, and all cross tubes will be fit up next
 

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Are you not planning on running windshield wipers? Cage looks nice and tight.
 
Are you not planning on running windshield wipers? Cage looks nice and tight.
There’s no front windshield in it, if I decide to run a window then yes there will be no windshield wipers. my yj has never had them and not terrible to drive when it’s a little wet out. and thank you on the cage compliment!
 
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Front axle wise, I bought a 99-04 superduty front and after welding the artec truss on and trackbar, link mounts, shock mounts and swaybar brackets I realized the geometry and trackbar was way off to what I wanted. I also wanted to offset the pumpkin more to the passenger side for clearance. Decided to knock out the short tube and weld in a longer tube and cut the passenger shorter. While I was doing that I acquired some 05 up inner/outer knuckles since there is more aftermarket support like knuckles and brakes. I made the superduty to snowfighter lengths and built a super fighter. I have to bore out the 05 knuckles old tubing to the 3.5” diameter size to be correct for the old superduty tubing size
 

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Front axle done with bumps, ball joint delete kit, new double shear knuckles. It’s now got 78/79 inner length RCV’s with 05 superduty outters. Wilwood 6 piston calipers and Branik ultralight brake it. Got the hydro assist ram guard on as well
 

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I love oddball stuff, like a 99-04 with 05+ outers and 78-79 lengths :lmao:

Who makes those knuckles
 
Started mocking the Wilwood/Branik brake kit and brake lines. Got the limit straps done and welded on the trackbar frame bracket and the trackbar cross bar to other side of frame to tie the two sides of the unibody together for the beat down this is going to take. Overall with a short body 12” shock I’m sitting at 6” uptravel 5” droop bumped and strapped. With how low this will be fitting a 14” shock was not possible unless they drag in the rocks and I’ll take the sacrifice for now
 

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I love oddball stuff, like a 99-04 with 05+ outers and 78-79 lengths :lmao:

Who makes those knuckles
This whole thing is oddball, I build Frankenstein vehicles and you just have to get creative sometimes, wait till I reveal the rear suspension setup 😆
 
I made a custom notcher years ago for a drill press and that works flawlessly except for 1.75-2” tubing. Used hole saw still and when you need long notches hole saws suck. I’ll take pics of that setup. Just a standard harbor freight drill press and a custom aluminum adapter instead of the round table
Here’s the pics of the harbor freight drill press turned tube notcher. Tilts 45 degrees each way and can swivel. Only drawback was long pieces or odd shapes.
 

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