Rig Building Question

What would you rather have?

  • Portals

    Votes: 12 35.3%
  • Biggest Tires Possible

    Votes: 8 23.5%
  • Sticky Tires w/Water

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Rear Steer

    Votes: 11 32.4%
  • Slander is gay

    Votes: 5 14.7%
  • Stickies

    Votes: 2 5.9%
  • High center of gravity

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • High ground clearance.

    Votes: 1 2.9%

  • Total voters
    34
Good friend of mine tried that with yota axles, 4 wheel steer, 39" stickies, 22ret and a doubler. It sounded like a good idea, but being on a minimal budget it lacked the quality components and 5 years later has yet to see a rock/trail. Sad part is it started off as a functional toyota based truggy when he started the project.
Kevin?
 
None of us can afford them so we’re dreaming big here.
Probably depends on if you're talking 74Weld or JHF/Hummer based. JHF are a lot more affordable considering what you'd spend on upgraded inner/outer knuckles/steering and a fabbed Toy or 9" housing.

I can't see 4WS on a street driven rig though. I know they can be locked in place for that....I'd just be concerned about getting it aligned enough to not wear the stickies at an incredible rate (not to mention stickies at street pressure/speeds doesn't make any sense either).
 
None of us can afford them so we’re dreaming big here.
Agreed. If I had portal money, I'd have a RS/portal car on 42's and a rig to drive it around the country. :flipoff2:

I can't see 4WS on a street driven rig though. I know they can be locked in place for that....I'd just be concerned about getting it aligned enough to not wear the stickies at an incredible rate (not to mention stickies at street pressure/speeds doesn't make any sense either).
I wouldn't run stickies on the road. (mainly because that's the equivalent of lighting money on fire for warmth)

Some KOH rig had rear steer deleted with 2 tie bars to the center of the diff. I thought it was a neat idea. It didn't break during the race.
 
Agreed. If I had portal money, I'd have a RS/portal car on 42's and a rig to drive it around the country. :flipoff2:


I wouldn't run stickies on the road. (mainly because that's the equivalent of lighting money on fire for warmth)

Some KOH rig had rear steer deleted with 2 tie bars to the center of the diff. I thought it was a neat idea. It didn't break during the race.
I think Wraith chassis had that too...

Yeah...that was it:
1749745856882.png


Just saying that if it's not aligned properly...it's going to dogleg and wear the tires as well as have funky handling.
 
My ultimate choice would be a 1.5” tube low stretched samurai on Fab 9” and 39s. We have wheeled with a friend that has that with a turbo 2.2l Ecotec at 300HP at rh crank and it does everything. Runs 90 percent of Fordyce in 2wd front only.
 
i voted big tires.
No way im going that far to wheel on 35's even with a short WB.

built yota axles, drag axle, 39's 110" WB 19" belly, keep it light as possible carry some spares and go run what you are comfortable with. Simple and reliable. replacement parts can also be quickly sourced in case of catastrophic failure.

The more complicated it is, the more one off **** you use and trail fixes become more intricate/sourcing parts more difficult.
 
******ed question time. What is a drag axle? Having a rear disconnect like a twin stick 205? It is insinuating the inclusion of cutting brakes?
 
******ed question time.
Normal for you. :flipoff2:

What is a drag axle? Having a rear disconnect like a twin stick 205? It is insinuating the inclusion of cutting brakes?
Drag - non steer axle. I.e. dragging it around a rock. Normally it will be a selectable locker and then lock up the side you want to drag, and sending more power to the opposite side thought the side gears.

My ultimate choice would be a 1.5” tube low stretched samurai on Fab 9” and 39s. We have wheeled with a friend that has that with a turbo 2.2l Ecotec at 300HP at rh crank and it does everything. Runs 90 percent of Fordyce in 2wd front only.
Got any pic's
 
Tldr
Guess I'm the only one that voted for sticky tires but I don't run water. I've seen portals break from side hilling, rear steer is great but I'm good with the lowly drag axle and biggest tires possible is nice but doesn't always hook up. Example would be 47" ltb compared to a 39.5 red, I'd take the red for rocks every day of the week.

Just my .02

Been wheeling rubicon, fordyce for over 20 years and about 15 at the hammers. Been to Oregon, Washington, Arizona, Nevada and Utah to wheel.
 
Ops poll options suck, I would vote stickies no water as well
 
OK, I updated my choice and I still stand on just sticky tires.

I've lead a couple different people here through rubicon and fordyce for their first time. I would be happy to guide more members that would like to see it for their first time. I've also picked a member up from the Oakland airport to just come ride around for a week of wheeling.
 
Makes more sense. The lingo itself, not that you're using comp crawler lingo on a rec wheeler :flipoff2:
Entering the crawler in the Street Legal Rock crawl at GER next month. :flipoff2: I was supposed to go to the WERock event this weekend and hang out with all my "friends", but had some other stuff pop up. I've judged a few events too.

I've lead a couple different people here through rubicon and fordyce for their first time. I would be happy to guide more members that would like to see it for their first time. I've also picked a member up from the Oakland airport to just come ride around for a week of wheeling.
That's pretty sick, only $500 for a round trip flight out of Richmond. :flipoff2:

ooxxooXoXXx - Nacho Libre
 
Agreed. If I had portal money, I'd have a RS/portal car on 42's and a rig to drive it around the country. :flipoff2:


I wouldn't run stickies on the road. (mainly because that's the equivalent of lighting money on fire for warmth)

Some KOH rig had rear steer deleted with 2 tie bars to the center of the diff. I thought it was a neat idea. It didn't break during the race.
I ran rear steer locked out for KOH and a couple other races.

After about 150 miles of being locked out the Ujoints start to seize up. We assumed from no new grease and not being turned. They never failed but were a **** to get out.

Happened 3 times, would not recommend :flipoff2:
 
My ultimate choice would be a 1.5” tube low stretched samurai on Fab 9” and 39s. We have wheeled with a friend that has that with a turbo 2.2l Ecotec at 300HP at rh crank and it does everything. Runs 90 percent of Fordyce in 2wd front only.
Got pics? I like the sounds of that. But then I like 4 cylinder 4x4's and light weight. Sounds coolio.
 
I ran rear steer locked out for KOH and a couple other races.

After about 150 miles of being locked out the Ujoints start to seize up. We assumed from no new grease and not being turned. They never failed but were a **** to get out.

Happened 3 times, would not recommend :flipoff2:
Interesting. I wonder how the factory offering from Chevy several years back dealt with that (though IIRC, it was only 15° of rear steering for parking/maneuvering a trailer). I never saw one in person and didn't research it back then b/c....well, WTF would you want that on a 3/4T tow rig anyway IMO? Seems like a lot of added complexity/failure points for what it gives in added maneuverability.

Hmmm...found this in a cursory search on it:

Chevy Rear Steer Truck

Quadrasteer was a four-wheel steering system developed by Delphi Automotive while under the ownership of General Motors for use in automobiles. It was available as an option on GM's full-size pickup trucks and 2500 Suburbans for model years 2002 through 2005.2 The system enables the vehicle to turn tighter. It was initially a $7,000 option. The cost was lowered to $5,600, $2,000 and eventually $1,000 in order to boost sales. The steering system was popular for applications frequently towing boats, fifth wheels, or other large equipment. The system was primarily used on pickup trucks. At lower speeds, it turns in opposite direction of the forward wheels to a maximum of 15°, or 12° in trailer mode, decreasing the turning radius as much as 21%. At higher speeds the system will turn the rear wheels slightly in the direction of the front wheels so as to increase stability and control.2

Quadrasteer was used on General Motor’s full-size pickup trucks and 2500 HD SUVs, such as the Suburban and Yukon XL. The Quadrasteer-equiped trucks covered model years 2002 through 2005. Trucks equipped with this system were easily recognizable as they had a wider rear (Dana 60) axle and blistered rear fenders that accommodated wheels that can turn up to 15-degrees.10 The system was discontinued due to low sales numbers, with the peak penetration of sales being in 2004 with the GMC Yukon XL with a paltry 17.8%. The four-wheel steering attempt was considered a failure.10

Despite the low sales numbers, fans insist that the Quadrasteer system was outstanding. Kent (AKA “Mr. Truck”) and I have driven a few GM vehicles equipped with the system and were equally impressed. Overall, the system is seamless and the main sensation the driver feels is a better handling truck. Being able to do a U-turn on a small street in a huge Yukon XL is a neat sensation, and being able to thread the needle as you park a trailer is awesome. All indications show the system has proven to be reliable and made these GM trucks remarkably maneuverable even on the highway.
 
Looks like CVs vs U-Joints. But also being “steered” regularly would move the components thru their range.

CV's would work great, I was using D60 Ujoints.

It never had an issue when it was not locked out and getting used.
 
Looks like CVs vs U-Joints. But also being “steered” regularly would move the components thru their range.
Yeah, I guess the 'quadrasteer' was apparently working all the time to varying degrees of steering, not just at slow speed.
 
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