Build 1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

Just chipped away a little today. But roof is back on.

Some pics of the wiring runs since you guys don’t like videos. :flipoff2:

When I tear this all down for paint every bare wire will be covered before reinstallation.

IMG_5702.jpeg
IMG_5703.jpeg
IMG_5704.jpeg
IMG_5705.jpeg
IMG_5706.jpeg
IMG_5707.jpeg
IMG_5708.jpeg
IMG_5709.jpeg
 
Getting after it.

I like use Velcro to attach wiring to cage, looks cleaner/more professional than zip ties, especially where you have a panel, it won’t lift it like zip ties.
 
Getting after it.

I like use Velcro to attach wiring to cage, looks cleaner/more professional than zip ties, especially where you have a panel, it won’t lift it like zip ties.

I bought a ridiculous amount those on Amazon for like $8 for the kids rc cars. Never thought to use them on a rig, good idea.
 
Getting after it.

I like use Velcro to attach wiring to cage, looks cleaner/more professional than zip ties, especially where you have a panel, it won’t lift it like zip ties.

Doesn’t get all dirty and ****ty looking after dust or mud get in it?
 
So today was awesome and disappointing.

I drove the buggy, a lot. It sounds like an old John Deere with just a header on it, but oh well.

Had no brakes after flying down the driveway. Thankfully no one was coming! I had brakes, don’t know where they disappeared to, but oh well.

Flexed it out, and also discovered that I can’t shift into my 4.7 low range. So either I messed it up, or I can’t get it to shift into it. I remember checking these cases numerous times when I built them. Pretty sure I had to tap it into 4.7 with a screw driver and mallet 🧐. All the more reason to quickly tear this down for paint, I guess.

Is this the shifter that shifts 4.7? If so it just locks me in N when I push it forward.

IMG_5723.jpeg


I thought once this was done I’d be able to move on. But I don’t think I’ll be able to stop from driving it all the time. :smokin: :laughing:

Anyways. Video and pics.


IMG_5717.jpeg
IMG_5718.jpeg
IMG_5720.jpeg
IMG_5721.jpeg
IMG_5719.jpeg
IMG_5722.jpeg
 
fukkin sick.

if memory serves me correct, (been awhile since i had a dual'd twin stick toyota) that should be the HNL shifter you're pointing to and all the way forward should be L
 
fukkin sick.

if memory serves me correct, (been awhile since i had a dual'd twin stick toyota) that should be the HNL shifter you're pointing to and all the way forward should be L

Ugh. I can’t get it into low. Crawling that one rock was rough in 4 HI
 
On the rear case, all the way back on that stick is H and one click forward is for sure N?

Does the crawl box shift ok?
 
That information is correct. Left shifter is High, Neutral, Low (all the way forward). Assuming you bench tested it and removed the interlock pill between the shift rails.
 
Does the crawl box shift fine?

Did you use everything out of those cases, or did you use parts from any other case?

There is a thing with dual cases where the rods need to be trimmed or they'll hit, iirc it works in high/high or low/low, but doesn't allow 1 in high and 1 in low. Now that I'm typing it though, I think it's the crawl box can't be in low with the rear in high....


First thing is pop the twin stick off and look inside. See if you can move the high/low shift rod.
 
That information is correct. Left shifter is High, Neutral, Low (all the way forward). Assuming you bench tested it and removed the interlock pill between the shift rails.

Does the crawl box shift fine?

Did you use everything out of those cases, or did you use parts from any other case?

There is a thing with dual cases where the rods need to be trimmed or they'll hit, iirc it works in high/high or low/low, but doesn't allow 1 in high and 1 in low. Now that I'm typing it though, I think it's the crawl box can't be in low with the rear in high....


First thing is pop the twin stick off and look inside. See if you can move the high/low shift rod.

I remember rebuilding these cases and all the shift rods stayed the same in the burnt case you sold me. I did not use the shift rods from the spare case.

My crawl box shifts perfectly fine no matter what the rear case is doing.

Tonight I’m going to jack it up in the air and have my oldest son kind of wiggle the tires back and forth and see if it isn’t binding up. I definitely remember having difficulty shifting this one way when I assembled it and bench tested it. I definitely don’t remember being stuck in N for any testing.

EDIT: Jeff that sounds right that if I had the wrong shift rod in, it wouldn’t let the crawl box shift into low with the stock case in 4 HI. I’m slowly remembering how this works. So I’m guessing it’s just going to take a couple tries to get this into 4.7…and I’ll probably never take it out.
 
Last edited:
I remember rebuilding these cases and all the shift rods stayed the same in the burnt case you sold me. I did not use the shift rods from the spare case.

My crawl box shifts perfectly fine no matter what the rear case is doing.


Tonight I’m going to jack it up in the air and have my oldest son kind of wiggle the tires back and forth and see if it isn’t binding up. I definitely remember having difficulty shifting this one way when I assembled it and bench tested it. I definitely don’t remember being stuck in N for any testing.

That won't do anything that driving around didn't do

EDIT: Jeff that sounds right that if I had the wrong shift rod in, it wouldn’t let the crawl box shift into low with the stock case in 4 HI. I’m slowly remembering how this works. So I’m guessing it’s just going to take a couple tries to get this into 4.7…and I’ll probably never take it out.

I don't think so

If it's not shifting at all something is put in wrong.

Can you get to the Allen on the side of the tcase that has the ball and spring inside?
 
That won't do anything that driving around didn't do



I don't think so

If it's not shifting at all something is put in wrong.

Can you get to the Allen on the side of the tcase that has the ball and spring inside?

I can. But I’m wondering if those shifters are hanging up. If I can shift it without the sticks, I might have to grind more off like I already had to.
 
If you were gonna leave it open header, I have a pulling header for that. :flipoff2:

Looks good. Boss, x3 on it’s probably the rails inside the case. Put the front case in high and try 4lo. Sometimes the can be funky while trying to work the shifters with the drivetrain bound up. Straighten the wheels and back up a bit while applying pressure.
 
If you were gonna leave it open header, I have a pulling header for that. :flipoff2:

Looks good. Boss, x3 on it’s probably the rails inside the case. Put the front case in high and try 4lo. Sometimes the can be funky while trying to work the shifters with the drivetrain bound up. Straighten the wheels and back up a bit while applying pressure.

No I got a glass pack for it. :laughing:

Going to mess with it more tonight. Had to get the initial excitement worn off before I could focus on it.
 
I officially have no idea what went wrong with this t-case. It looks like everything is installed properly from the Marlin Crawler instructions. But this driver’s side shift fork can not shift into low, because the fork is into the large gear…

I don’t know. I have to tear back into this.



IMG_5727.jpeg

4HI

IMG_5728.jpeg


Neutral
 
Could the forks have been swapped? I haven’t been in a mini truck case in forever so pardon me if I’m way off.
 
I officially have no idea what went wrong with this t-case. It looks like everything is installed properly from the Marlin Crawler instructions. But this driver’s side shift fork can not shift into low, because the fork is into the large gear…

I don’t know. I have to tear back into this.



IMG_5727.jpeg

4HI

IMG_5728.jpeg


Neutral
Did you grind the bottom of where the shift fork slips into to accommodate for the larger low range gears? I don't have any pics, but I remember doing that so I could fit the 4.7s. I don't see it in their instructions, but they like to leave **** out it seems.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you grind the bottom of where the shift fork slips into to accommodate for the larger low range gears? I don't have any pics, but I remember doing that so I could fit the 4.7s. I don't see it in their instructions, but they like to leave **** out it seems.

Yeah, YotaAtietoo already had this set up for the 4.7’s. So I just rebuilt it with new bearings and gaskets.
 
Yeah, YotaAtietoo already had this set up for the 4.7’s. So I just rebuilt it with new bearings and gaskets.
I would double check that, did you pound the roll pin in too far? It's going to be something stupid and simple so start there
 
Top Back Refresh