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Wildly unpopular thread about flat towing a 2012 Tacoma

PAE said:
Still with a FF axle but double spline ends on axle shafts with splined caps, axles secured with snap rings, when towing remove snap rings and push axles in and secure beyond where they would mesh with splined hub covers, replace splined hub covers with solid covers.
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You’re way over complicating this
 
Do you know for a fact if this is possible first hand? I built a D60 for my S10 in hopes I could do this with the 05+ hub setup and Mark Williams said there is no easy way to achieve this.

After numerous sketches the shafts were just not feasible within reason. The FF hub/drive flange is what holds the outer end so you can't just easily change it out for a locking hub. I will tell you first hand this DOES NOT work on the later model set up.

Not the only reason I chose to build an axle with this style of bearing but I wanted to be able to flat tow my truck by unlocking the hubs. Couldn't be done again within reason. So I would have to pull the driveshaft.
 
Thats why an axle swap is in order, whats the ride have now ?

Swap to a FF D60 or a FF 14 Bolt.
 
Tow the TJ. When you feel the need to take the Tacoma, drop the driveshaft. RV would pull a TJ a lot easier than a Taco.
 
BDK said:
Tow the TJ. When you feel the need to take the Tacoma, drop the driveshaft. RV would pull a TJ a lot easier than a Taco.
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We got the taco to replace the TJ. Wanted 4 doors and a truck bed. Our RV pulls a lot of things, the taco isn't high on the list of challenges.
 
Slander said:
Cordless impact, and a 14mm wrench and remove the driveshaft. If you want to get super fancy, make a flange and weld it to the frame rail to bolt the shaft to up and out of the way.
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I was thinking bolt to a pillow block flange so the truck could be driven in FWD around the camp site etc. simplifing hook up / tear down.
 
Skinny said:
Do you know for a fact if this is possible first hand? I built a D60 for my S10 in hopes I could do this with the 05+ hub setup and Mark Williams said there is no easy way to achieve this.

After numerous sketches the shafts were just not feasible within reason. The FF hub/drive flange is what holds the outer end so you can't just easily change it out for a locking hub. I will tell you first hand this DOES NOT work on the later model set up.

Not the only reason I chose to build an axle with this style of bearing but I wanted to be able to flat tow my truck by unlocking the hubs. Couldn't be done again within reason. So I would have to pull the driveshaft.
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Don't know if you were asking me? I have a 9" rear axle with 99-04 unit bearings on the back and flanges. Haven't personally installed hubs back there, but confident I could.

I don't know about the 05+ stuff, and 05+ stuff would require new wheels for the OP, as the hub pilot and 5.5 bolt circle are not compatible.
 
Have you pulled your drive flange to see if a hub bolts on and works with the end of the axle shaft?

Mine is nothing like what the stock shaft looks like so a hub wouldn't fit
 
Skinny said:
Have you pulled your drive flange to see if a hub bolts on and works with the end of the axle shaft?

Mine is nothing like what the stock shaft looks like so a hub wouldn't fit
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Not yet. It's over at the local body shop getting it's ass end fixed after someone hit it. They're claiming I should get it back Wednesday, then I can start seeing if some of these ideas people are tossing at me will work.

One thing I'm pretty sure of- it's getting a spring under in the near future, so either way the axle is coming out to at the very least get new spring perches and shock tabs. At that point in figure I can see what else is feasible.
 
Sandy Johnson said:
Not yet. It's over at the local body shop getting it's ass end fixed after someone hit it. They're claiming I should get it back Wednesday, then I can start seeing if some of these ideas people are tossing at me will work.

One thing I'm pretty sure of- it's getting a spring under in the near future, so either way the axle is coming out to at the very least get new spring perches and shock tabs. At that point in figure I can see what else is feasible.
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point 1 - nope on both front and rear.
point 2 - if you're going that far, might as well do some sort of FF housing???
 
rockota said:
point 2 - if you're going that far, might as well do some sort of FF housing???
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I want to keep it small and light. It's got slightly larger than 32" tires on it and I'd like to keep it that way. I'd also like to keep some shred of ground clearance, so something like a 60 or a 14b wouldn't work for me. Tracking down a FF land cruiser axle would be pretty cool. I might have to go cruise the local pick-n-pull and see what's there. Bonus if I end up a with a locker out back.

Given all that I've read here though, I might just be pulling the driveline each time and seeing how much I hate that before getting too radical with a solution.
 
I just don't think there are a lot of options. The old hub setup like on the D35 and D44 from Warn seem long gone and from what I've read were troublesome.
 
Whats the perch spread and shock mount locations on current axle and ratio ?
 
PAE said:
Whats the perch spread and shock mount locations on current axle and ratio ?
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Dunno, on perch spread and shock tab locations, but that might be a moot point since either way I'll be cutting them off and welding on new ones for the SUA. Axle ratio for the v6 auto is 3.73
 
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Sandy Johnson said:
I want to keep it small and light. It's got slightly larger than 32" tires on it and I'd like to keep it that way. I'd also like to keep some shred of ground clearance, so something like a 60 or a 14b wouldn't work for me. Tracking down a FF land cruiser axle would be pretty cool. I might have to go cruise the local pick-n-pull and see what's there. Bonus if I end up a with a locker out back.

Given all that I've read here though, I might just be pulling the driveline each time and seeing how much I hate that before getting too radical with a solution.
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What about replacing driveline bolts with these?

MIS119.jpeg


:flipoff2:

Really though. The FZJ80 rear is the most feasible way to do it. Width should be very close (63.5") brakes should be easy to adapt. Correct wheel pattern, correct driveline pattern, not completely overkill, ect.

Most are 4.10s iirc, so you'd have to regear one or the other.
 
Get a full float 60 and buzz the lip off the bottom of the housing. Should be close to a 44 in ground clearance.
 
Aisin said:
Get a full float 60 and buzz the lip off the bottom of the housing. Should be close to a 44 in ground clearance.
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Then convert to dics, loose parking brake, add in Toyota driveline flange, hope your spindle works with a front wheel hub, buy locking hubs, then figure out how to seal it.

Or FZJ80, get double spine shafts and bolt on locking hubs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Then convert to dics, loose parking brake, add in Toyota driveline flange, hope your spindle works with a front wheel hub, buy locking hubs, then figure out how to seal it.

Or FZJ80, get double spine shafts and bolt on locking hubs.
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I agree with the FZJ axle :flipoff2:
3C05A642-1362-4862-92FC-813437917F66.jpeg
 
Aisin said:
I agree with the FZJ axle :flipoff2:
3C05A642-1362-4862-92FC-813437917F66.jpeg
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Where should I be looking for these other than the local pick n pull? Do I just search for FZJ rear axle?


Update on the truck- got a call today, they found more problems when they pulled the bed all the way off to fix my frame, so now it won't be ready until the 30th.
 
Sandy Johnson said:
Where should I be looking for these other than the local pick n pull? Do I just search for FZJ rear axle?


Update on the truck- got a call today, they found more problems when they pulled the bed all the way off to fix my frame, so now it won't be ready until the 30th.
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I found my axles on car-part.com
 
Is it as simple as bolting front lockouts on a rear FZJ 80 axle and getting double spline shafts? Nothing funky about the oil sealing?
 
Jeffh555 said:
Is it as simple as bolting front lockouts on a rear FZJ 80 axle and getting double spline shafts? Nothing funky about the oil sealing?
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Good question, I do know the hubs will bolt up, but I guess they were never meant to hold oil.

I also may remember something about the FZJ80s not having oil bath wheel bearings, maybe there is a seal in the spindle?
 
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