Pat McRotch
UHURU 👌
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My 2019 F150 with a 5.0 pulls and stops my loaded horse trailer with 3 horses MUCH nicer than my 95 F350 PSD 5 speed. It has really impressed me.
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Why have receiver hitches grown so large?
- Thread starter welndmn
- Start date
My 2019 F150 with a 5.0 pulls and stops my loaded horse trailer with 3 horses MUCH nicer than my 95 F350 PSD 5 speed. It has really impressed me.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Buying a 3/4 ton or bigger without an 8' bed is stupid.
Buying a diesel unless you need to pull its max capacity is stupid
Using a 1/2 ton to pull a trailer within its rating is stupid
Keep up
michael.gonzalez
Banned
Buying a 3/4 ton or bigger without an 8' bed is stupid.
Buying a diesel unless you need to pull its max capacity is stupid
Using a 1/2 ton to pull a trailer within its rating is stupid
Keep up
Haha This gave me a good laugh.
pennsylvaniaboy
make fullsizes great again
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So would it be better to add this nut/bolt tensioner to the top of the receiver or the bottom...My excursion hitch is getting stupid loose. I also thought about adding some weld to the opening to tighten it up.
So I did it below but in front of the pin, so when weight is on it. the hitch is already loaded so all your doing is holding it in the position its already in loaded. It's worked pretty good. Others may have other solutions.
on the weight distribution hitch I have about 1000 lbs of tongue weight.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
either would work depending on if in front or behind the hitch pin (as not to be confused by orientation, in front of the pin is towards the front of the vehicle). as Stingray mentioned, in front of the pin underneath would be were you want it. if you want it behind the pin, on top would be the better location to keep the hitch tensioned how it would be with tongue weight.
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CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I like the idea of where you put the bolt but then you mentioned WD and that will reverse the load on the front of the hitch as it tries to transfer weight to the front tires. Not complaining just something to think about.
I guess I never though of it. I started years ago when I had a worn out sloppy hitch, it seemed like an easy fix and has served me well. So it's habit to install and tighten up the bolt. I do know the I-beam style weight distribution hitch does fit much tighter.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Different strokes.
I think they've made it easier for morons to tow their rv camper, boat, etc with a half ton. Personally I hate traction control, torque management, and other bullshit features but understand why they're useful for todays buyers.
I dont respect anyone's opinion who only tows a few times a year.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
So are you saying that you wouldn't have used anything less than a medium-duty truck to tow a camper in the '90s? Because properly equipped half tons are equal or superior to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks of that era in every way.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
You change the narrative too much to fit your own agenda.
Enjoy your new half ton truck, I'll stick with my old stuff.
Derp
Involuntary Chest Slapper
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I think the point he is trying to make, and one that has ben made and backed up in other past threads, is that the term "half ton" is pretty much meaningless unless you qualify it with a time frame.
You might as well be saying you need a "full size" truck. That description doesn't really even have any meaning anymore without additional context
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Comparing a 2000 to a 2020 F150, yes, there is an incredible difference/advance in power, brakes, and ratings.
For argument sake, depending on specs:
Towing Capacity
2005 Dodge 3500 DRW: 10,500 LBS
2020 Ford F150: 13,200 LBS
I take ratings with a grain of salt. Thats just me though, when I start seeing factory GN hitches installed in a F150, ill change my views.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
I have never owned a half ton, much less a new one
That said, I am not too insecure to admit a new F150 could do everything I do with my 7.3L just fine and would blow my 6.9L away on any non-offroad test.For some perpective comparing just Fords:
| 2021 F150 | Equivalent F250/350 | |
| Gas Engine (Top) | (3.5L V6 Ecoboost) 400 HP @ 6,000 RPM 500 FtLbs @ 3,100 RPM (5.0L V8 Coyote) 400 HP @ 6,000 RPM 410 FtLbs @ 4,250 RPM | (7.3L V8 2020+) 430 HP @ 5,500 RPM 475 FtLbs @ 4,000 RPM (6.8L V10 '05-'10) 362 HP @ 4,750 RPM 457 FtLbs @ 3,250 RPM (6.2L V8 2011-Present) 385 HP @ 5,750 RPM 405 FtLbs @ 4,500 RPM ('11-'16) 430 FtLbs @ 3,800 RPM ('17+) |
| Diesel (Top) | (3.0L V6 Powerstroke) 250 HP @ 3,250RPM 440 FtLbs @ 1750RPM | (7.3L V8 Powerstroke 1997) 225 HP @ 3,000 RPM 450 FtLbs @ 2,000 RPM |
| Front Brakes | 13.78" x 1.34" Vented Disc Two 2.00" dia. Pistons | 13.00" x 1.5" Vented Disc ('99-'04) 13.60" x 1.5" Vented Disc ('05-'07) Two 2.12" dia. Pistons ('99-'04) |
| Rear Brakes | 13.78" x .94" Vented disc One 2.13" dia. Piston | 12.80" x 1.18" Vented Disc ('99-'04) 13.40" x 1.34" Vented Disc ('05-'12) Two 1.75" dia. Pistons ('99-'04) |
| Rear End | 9.75" Ring gear 34 spline | 9.75" ring gear 30 spline (pre-'87) 10.25" ring gear 35 spline ('87-'97) |
Not to mention that new F150s have 10 speed transmissions with a 4.71 1st gear vs any of the pre-'20 Superduty transmissions, let alone the old 4 speed autos. The new F150s also have way stouter frames than the pre-Superduty trucks (at least torsionally).
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
I have never owned a half ton, much less a new one
A new F150, half ton whatever, could probably do everything YOU do with a 7.3L. A new truck is impressive on paper.
A 6.9L was a turd the day it left the factory floor.
Personally, the chassis on a new 450 is the most impressive to me. That just blows the old stuff out of the water.
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This and a gooseneck.
What I fucking love is it is still a 5/8" pin for the bigger 3" hitch
my google says 5/8" pin is good to 24k pounds
pennsylvaniaboy
make fullsizes great again
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Co-worker has a crew cab shortbed ecoboost 150...to pull a 5th wheel. Even had the local spring shop install extra leaf springs and added e rated tires.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
and there are plenty of stories about guys forgetting to put the pin in all together, just holding in there from the tongue weight cocking the hitch in the receiver
which is to say you've gotta be very unlucky to actually manage to get that much force in (double) shear on the pin
ironman_gq
Well-known member
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I like the big tube receivers! I've got a fleet of trucks with 2" tubes and it keeps my guys from stealing my hitch when they leave theirs somewhere. I damn near outfitted the whole fleet with new hitches one summer, at least once a week I'd get a call from a guy who took my ball, that ended when I got a big tube.
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
Look at their GCWR. F150's GCWR when equipped for 13,200lbs towing capacity is only 18,600lbs GCWR. So.......... that means by paper, the F150 can only tow 13,200lbs GTW if the truck is only 5,400lbs (basically nothing in it, other than a scrawny driver & gas)
My '97 Ram 2500 Cummins have higher GCWR than the new F150. The 2" receiver pulled my trailer at over 20,000lbs GCW without issue, other than wearing out the receiver/pin holes.
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
the entire square tube is worn lol. ball mount move around a TON, up/down & side to side. I bought a "Hitch Tightener" and it works pretty well, except that it will not work on my solid forged ball mount.
welndmn
Well Done Man
I did that to my 2005 dodge 2500, took all the slop out of the pin.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Thats what she said
Has anyone ever seen a failed hitch receiver that wasn't a result of yanking a stuck vehicle/trailer?
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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Ford's shortbed is 6'9"
Chevy_man
Leftjizz
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This and a gooseneck.
What I fucking love is it is still a 5/8" pin for the bigger 3" hitch
I hit the end of my 30k strap so hard it picked the truck up off the ground. Never bent the pin, but I'm sure it would have sheared off a ball. (I just stuff my strap loop in the hitch and put the pin in to retain it.)
I'm sure it's fine since it's double sheer and a small distance.
I don't know if I should buy a new 3" hitch for my 16 and a big adjustable/flip ball combo deal, or just spend $250 on a 2.5" stinger and do it again on the next truck that will undoubtedly be 3".
Either way, the b&w is in the bed for the big loads. The bumper pull camper and boat get used about 99% more often though.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
My last company truck had a 5/8 grade 8 bolt and nylock for a hitch pin. It never was borrowed or taken. They were pretty good about all their trailers either being pintle or 2" ball so the 2" ball pintle did it all.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Speaking of hitches.
Anyone got a good suggestion on a decent adjustable hitch that has a 2" and 2 5/16", but also has a pintle? Oh, and isn't $350.
I've found them in about every combination but what I want.
Anyone got a good suggestion on a decent adjustable hitch that has a 2" and 2 5/16", but also has a pintle? Oh, and isn't $350.
I've found them in about every combination but what I want.
IowaOffRoad
Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
There are a variety of factors that make this an apples-to-oranges comparison. One of the biggest issues with the modern 1/2t (whatever that means) truck is the way they are sprung. Even the "tow package" trucks don't seem to be sprung well enough to keep the headlights from spotlighting 'coons when close to capacity.
One of the issues with your specs: The 2020 F150 spec is with a weight distributing hitch, otherwise Ford says 5000# tow, 500# tongue
2005 Dodge 3500 is 16,350# with no qualifications, according to Edmunds. I think the 10,500# is GVWR, which is only 900# shy of my 1999 Dodge V10 2500, which is 9600# (according to the door)
I think what you'll find trying to tow with the new F150, or anybody's "half-ton" is you can tow heavy occasionally, but not all the time. I have ran into a few farmers who looked at the spec sheet and tried to turn a new F150 into an all-around farm truck. They broke often, and get horrible mileage when towing at max capacity.I have never owned a half ton, much less a new one
For some perpective comparing just Fords:
2021 F150 Equivalent F250/350 Gas Engine (Top) (3.5L V6 Ecoboost)
400 HP @ 6,000 RPM
500 FtLbs @ 3,100 RPM
(5.0L V8 Coyote)
400 HP @ 6,000 RPM
410 FtLbs @ 4,250 RPM(7.3L V8 2020+)
430 HP @ 5,500 RPM
475 FtLbs @ 4,000 RPM
(6.8L V10 '05-'10)
362 HP @ 4,750 RPM
457 FtLbs @ 3,250 RPM
(6.2L V8 2011-Present)
385 HP @ 5,750 RPM
405 FtLbs @ 4,500 RPM ('11-'16)
430 FtLbs @ 3,800 RPM ('17+)Diesel (Top) (3.0L V6 Powerstroke)
250 HP @ 3,250RPM
440 FtLbs @ 1750RPM(7.3L V8 Powerstroke 1997)
225 HP @ 3,000 RPM
450 FtLbs @ 2,000 RPMFront Brakes 13.78" x 1.34" Vented Disc
Two 2.00" dia. Pistons13.00" x 1.5" Vented Disc ('99-'04)
13.60" x 1.5" Vented Disc ('05-'07)
Two 2.12" dia. Pistons ('99-'04)Rear Brakes 13.78" x .94" Vented disc
One 2.13" dia. Piston12.80" x 1.18" Vented Disc ('99-'04)
13.40" x 1.34" Vented Disc ('05-'12)
Two 1.75" dia. Pistons ('99-'04)Rear End 9.75" Ring gear 34 spline
9.75" ring gear 30 spline (pre-'87)
10.25" ring gear 35 spline ('87-'97)
Not to mention that new F150s have 10 speed transmissions with a 4.71 1st gear vs any of the pre-'20 Superduty transmissions, let alone the old 4 speed autos. The new F150s also have way stouter frames than the pre-Superduty trucks (at least torsionally).
If you assess your situation and see that you tow 6-12 times/year and 1 of those is over 10k, you should buy your favorite 1/2 ton.
If you tow all the time at or above 10k, or you towing off-road/non-paved roads a lot, get yourself a heavier truck, even if it's an older one. Save your 1/2ton for the boat and the grocery store. The spec sheet doesn't pull the trailer.
One more issue with comparison over era's:
There was never a standard rating until SAE J2807 was approved for 2008. Toyota was the first to adopt across the board, Ram started rating the 2500/3500 in 2014, Ford started using it on the F150 in 2015 at which point GM and Ram followed suit. I'm still not sure if GM and Ford are using J2807 for their 250/350/2500/3500 offerings. Ford is using it for their F450, which was the subject of a lawsuit pushed by Ford a few years ago when the Ram 3500 took the top 'Class 3' truck tow rating, and Ford claimed their cab/chassis F450 stripped with no spare should qualify with an 800(I think?) pound higher tow rating than RAM. Not sure how it ever shook out. Googled Ford and GM 350/3500 towing specs and found both manufacturer's fleet brochures. If you look at all the footnotes, which is where you usually find the test standard, they still aren't using J2807. I'm certain that they know what it is, I'm also certain that there is a reason they are ignoring it.
So, everybody do what they want, but if asking for the best advice for someone's specific situation, there are many factors that could/should affect the choice. Like so many things in life, there's much gray area here.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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- 71
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SAE J2807 is 100% bullshit. It's basically just a horsepower/cooling system test since that's what the bottleneck winds up being on any vehicle new enough to use that rating.
The 90s and 00s had the best tow ratings since they were basically the result of marketing asking engineering to give them the biggest number that was still reasonable enough to be ok'd by legal.
The 90s and 00s had the best tow ratings since they were basically the result of marketing asking engineering to give them the biggest number that was still reasonable enough to be ok'd by legal.
If you have a pintle you don't need multiple ball sizes.Speaking of hitches.
Anyone got a good suggestion on a decent adjustable hitch that has a 2" and 2 5/16", but also has a pintle? Oh, and isn't $350.
I've found them in about every combination but what I want.