What's new

Who's who for axle shafts?

Truth.

My buddy wheeled his jeep with stock 14b shafts and 42" stickies for years and finally twisted the splines so much that he had to get new ones, so he went with Yukon. He broke a new Yukon shaft on the 3rd trip out not even doing anything stupid.
Yukon rear shafts are made from 1541h which is not much/if any better the stock.
 
I believe that's what has happened with Yukon. I honestly can't say that I know anyone running old ass Yukons that have had many problems yet guys with the newer Yukon stuff break their shit way more frequently.
Yukon’s have always had a high failure rate. Since the early 2k’s. That’s why brands like Alloy and Superior were so popular. They are affordable is the best thing you can say about them.

Also 1541h is like 2% stronger than oe.
 
What's up with the giant nut on the end? That looks like a much better way to go...though I'm not following why it's a 2 piece. Sounds like the shaft could be Hy-Tuf and the flange could be 4340??


It's a bolt on flange and double ended shaft, the nut is a cover for the end of the shaft/flange. It's no different than how RCV is doing them although Braniks cover is held on with a few bolts. Branik and Spidertrax both sell 1480 front inner with 300m shafts but 4340 yokes. I'm guessing the flange or yoke in my example above is stronger than 300m or Hy-tuf shaft at the end of the day.

Rear Drive Flange Kit for Dana 60, Dana 70, Dana 80 Axle Housing

Dana 60 70 80 Rear Drive Flanges - 35 Spline
 
I talked to spidertrax and 300m kp stubs last week. They will make them. But… $1100 a pop. And they need an order of 6.
 
Yukon rear shafts are made from 1541h which is not much/if any better the stock.
2 Types at Yukon...1541H and 4340.


 
I've heard some people say the Yukon cut to fit are weaker than stock :laughing:
They are.

Why do I know that name and that reputation?
Cause every time someone mentions IMS I say they're terrible ? :grinpimp:

I believe that's what has happened with Yukon. I honestly can't say that I know anyone running old ass Yukons that have had many problems yet guys with the newer Yukon stuff break their shit way more frequently.
Agreed. Buddy finally broke some 10+yo yukon shafts. Ordered the same thing and you can tell how the quality and material went down just by looking at them.
 
Ya really 1541H is more for semi float axles. Why would you ever use that on a full float axle shaft?
 
Ya really 1541H is more for semi float axles. Why would you ever use that on a full float axle shaft?
Pretty sure that's a factory offering.
 
Last edited:
Dutchman or branik 4340 floaters are the best bang for the buck no doubt. With the price of cut to fit shafts, it shouldnt even be an option when comparing unless youre on super budget.
 
I thought all the tight turning guys were running either spidertrax or rcv shafts.... Or is this thread about getting good stuff without dropping over 3k on axles....

The guy I bought my tires from told me to get spidertrax shafts and after about 5 min on their website I realized that I would be into them about $3500 after getting u-joints... I wasn't ready to drop that kinda $ so I bought some open box discount yukons from ebay for $750. I have normal turning radius, and probably wont change due to tire getting into suspension parts.

I hope to buy RCV's for my jeep before the end of the year and put my current chromoly axles in the box as spares.
 
I thought all the tight turning guys were running either spidertrax or rcv shafts.... Or is this thread about getting good stuff without dropping over 3k on axles....

The guy I bought my tires from told me to get spidertrax shafts and after about 5 min on their website I realized that I would be into them about $3500 after getting u-joints... I wasn't ready to drop that kinda $ so I bought some open box discount yukons from ebay for $750. I have normal turning radius, and probably wont change due to tire getting into suspension parts.

I hope to buy RCV's for my jeep before the end of the year and put my current chromoly axles in the box as spares.
I think this is a more budget minded thread....but Branik is right up there with the RCV/Spidertrax stuff...some would argue better than RCV anyway.
 
The problem with RCV is that until you get into big bell style stuff, it's just a bigger toyota axle imo. The inners shear at the bell, the bell explodes, or for kingpin stuff the stub breaks. Granted, they do have a warranty which is a massive selling point but as a friend of mine once said... warranties are for parts that need warranties. I would be willing to bet that if rcv didnt have a warranty, their sales would decrease substantially pushing more people toward other top shaft makers.
 
I think this is a more budget minded thread....but Branik is right up there with the RCV/Spidertrax stuff...some would argue better than RCV anyway.

Not really, just a lot more people run lower end shafts. It's a big investment difference between a import shaft of which ever brand and any of the 300m or billet stuff. I think the only one selling US forged shafts currently is Dutchman.

Branik also sells Yukon shafts as their forged line.
 
Oh FYI Dutchman floating 4340 shafts with ends are less than the price of Yukon cut to fit...
Screenshot_20240225-210416_Samsung Internet.jpg
It appears Dutchman has dropped these from their product line up and replaced them with these: Double Spline Full Floater Axles | Pair

but they've dropped the drive hub....so the shafts are now $495.
 
Last edited:
Probably not a big seller TBH. The amount of people running aftermarket rear drive hubs and double splined shafts is probably pretty low. You can still buy flanged rear USA made shafts from them in custom lengths and splines cheaper than cut to fits from the Indonesian polar bear.
 
Probably not a big seller TBH. The amount of people running aftermarket rear drive hubs and double splined shafts is probably pretty low. You can still buy flanged rear USA made shafts from them in custom lengths and splines cheaper than cut to fits from the Indonesian polar bear.
Yeah...pretty quickly decided that was the route I'm gonna take since the drive hubs will bump the price a bunch. $425 for a pair of 4130 flanged floater axles.
 
I was looking at the drive hub double splined option too but was kind of thinking they would stick way out with my C+C hubs on my 14b. The bolts on my flanged axles are all chewed up.
 
I have two double splined rcv shafts I’d sell cheap if they happen to fit anyone’s project…

39.75” and 35.5”
 
Top Back Refresh