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When do you call it quits on a vehicle?

Depends on the car and how long I plan to keep it around.

I have put too much money in my Prius this year, but I don't plan on ever getting rid of it. It will be the perfect vehicle for my kid to learn to drive in sometime around 2033. This year started with a rebuilt hybrid battery ($850, just for peace of mind as my original was not lasting nearly as long as it used to), followed by a new head gasket, WP, timing set, and whatever else they could find while in there ($4300). Then I put in new shocks/struts/springs/sway bar end links/brake pads and rotors ($600-ish) when the A/C decided to quit (evaporator failed, $1700) so it should need damn near nothing for another quarter-million miles, right?

Its worth about $4500.:homer: But to replace it and start over with a 5-year newer one (had this one 5 years) would have been $18k+, so I felt this was the better deal, plus I know the maintenance for the past 100,000 miles.

If my truck needed $6500 in repairs, I'd probably trade it in and get a newer one.

If my wife's car has any major problems, it can go to hell.

The FJ62 needs a transmission. I have a used unit, but am considering pulling the trigger on a rebuilt unit from Georj and Valley Hybrids instead ($5k or so).

The XC90 is intent on nickel and diming me to death until I put it out to pasture. Not sure if I'm going to fix the spongy brakes and sunroof drain leaks or just clean it up and send it down the road for way less than I have into it. If I do, I'll get something non-swede, probably a Mercedes SUV.

Shit. My place sounds like Arse's land of hoopties now.:flipoff2:
 
I've never gotten more than 100k on a Domestic Automatic transmission... my 2004 gmc is on its 3rd.
You're doing something exceptionally wrong then. :laughing:

Even shitty transmissions like the Nissan CVT and the auto they stuck in 80s Rangers go 100k by default.
 
One of my teachers had a Ford Ranger for a while, one day she pulls up in a new escort. She said the inspection was due it needed washed, the ashtray was full.
Depending on the exact specs on the Ranger and the year/specs on the Escort there's a chance it was an upgrade. Not much of a chance but a chance nonetheless. :laughing:
 
Our 2020 expedition max went in 5 times, mainly the a/c not working. All covered under warranty. Big family so getting a loaner in the meantime is not so easy.
Then the transmission went out at 45,000 miles. Again, warrantied but we saw the writing on the wall. This is a problem vehicle.
Sold it last week.
 
I had two recent times where I had to do the mental Olympics on repairing or selling.

first was my 2015 KTM 1290. It threw a chain and took out the slave cylinder. For a damage assessment there was only about $500 worth of parts and about a weekend of work to repair. There was enough meat in the case to drill and thread for bigger bolts, replace the rod, replace the shift indicator and have a dealer reflash the ECU. While researching the repair I was also searching for replacement bikes and found one in Georgia that I really liked. I had mentally moved on from the 2015 and I ended up selling it to my buddy that would have helped me repair it and ended up buying a 2019 1290 "s". So even though it wouldnt have been too expensive or difficult mentally I had moved on.

flash forward 2 years and the 2019 breaks 3 teeth off of 6th gear. I get a quote for $4,000 for a rebuild. this was around the time for a mjor service as well and those usually run about $1200. the major service would be completed within the $4,000 estimate as they do like 80% of it while repairing the bike. I ended up going ahead with the repairs as, at the time, to replace the bike would have been about $12,000. I also really enjoy this bike and would only replace it with the same or newer version, so I decided to keep and repair it as it was cheaper than replacing. I have put over 23,000 miles on the bike since the repair with no issues. Almost at 60,000 miles on the bike and 50,000 have been from me.
 
I've never gotten more than 100k on a Domestic Automatic transmission... my 2004 gmc is on its 3rd.
Do you just refuse to service them or something?

TH350 in my Buick was rebuilt at 109k not because it was blown, but to make sure it would hold to the new engine with a stage 2 shift kit.
TH400 in my Suburban died when a rock took out a cooling line (made it home before it died, though). Rebuilt it, and it went another 120k before I traded it in.
4L60e in my C1500 was original when I sold it to my friend @ 228k.
700R4 in my Trans Am was original when I sold it at 135k.

I've only lost the one domestic automatic, and that was due to trail damage, not an actual weak link breaking.
 
X whatever on this being the worst group of people to ask.

IMO, “what’s it worth” is really only relevant if you’re decided to get rid of it in the first place. It really has no bearing if you’re going to keep it and drive it.

The questions I’d be asking are “What would I spend on something else?” and “What else is likely to go wrong in the immediate future?”

If you have a little sedan worth $3,000 that needs a $2,000 transmission, otherwise is solid, new water pump, radiator, and AC compressor, and anything similar to replace it with would be $5,000, then just fix it and keep driving it.

If you have an older F-150 that’s worth $4,500, but has a rod knock, worn out front end, and the transmission is likely to die in the next 5-10k miles, and you can go buy a comparable truck for the same money, do that instead.
 
this page

'It needs an inspection, trade it in"
"I have put too much money in my Prius this year"
also
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:laughing:
 
Following up on this thread… I just ran the numbers on my CJ2A project and all the tooling I’ve acquired to build it. 22k and nothing to show for it.

Yeah… don’t listen to me
 
The older and more financially stable I get, the less I like fucking around with non-project vehicles. Once a major component goes that would cost as much in parts and my time as the vehicle is worth, its history. I’ll let the more motivated people take it.
Mostly this. It's always about the money. I don't drive fancy cars. I drive cars that work. If I can replace parts for less than the purchase price of a new car, I'm doing it. I can replace a motor or transmission for less than the price of a new vehicle. I don't care about hail damage or dings and scratches. The warranty on a new vehicle will only get you so far. I don't care about a vehicles resale cause I literally drive them into the dirt. Then I'll buy another one and part out the first.
 
most things are an upgrade from a ranger.

It was more of a lateral move. Ranger was pretty base with ac Escort was similar. Barb, the teacher was probably a lesbian. If I had to pick a celebrity that resembled her, it be the blonde boss from 40-year-old virgin.
 
There are other factors that haven't been addressed here, how much of a hassle is it to acquire operational authority ?

IE to title and register it.
 
No price tag. Typically just keep fixing shitboxes regardless of the cost. The devil you know and all that.

I typically get to a point where I get tired of working on it. My old dually I scrapped I got rid of because the brake booster shit the bed. But that truck broke something everytime I started the engine.

Probably aughta think about the replacement for my wife's car. 7th gen 4 cyl accord...pretty much the most reliable and easy to work on car ever made. Pretty damn comfy, too. But it burns oil when you punch the gas and the trans has never been drained and its at 200k, and it needs a new cooling system, front hubs, rear suspension refresh...got most of the parts. Dunno if I wanna burn the time.
 
MIA OP Needs to fill in the requested blanks
The point of the thread is hear opinions from people on the topic and to talk about the ideas behind varying approaches to keep/fix/sell/replace vehicles. Doesn't matter what vehicle I got or you got.

Whether it's a Toyota or Ford, I would expect you to assess the value vs. price to fix vs. price to replace and go at it from a numbers game approach.

I'm not asking about what I should do in my specific case, I'm looking to hear from others about how they go about it.
 
The point of the thread is hear opinions from people on the topic and to talk about the ideas behind varying approaches to keep/fix/sell/replace vehicles. Doesn't matter what vehicle I got or you got.

Whether it's a Toyota or Ford, I would expect you to assess the value vs. price to fix vs. price to replace and go at it from a numbers game approach.

I'm not asking about what I should do in my specific case, I'm looking to hear from others about how they go about it.

For people playing the shitbox game, the resale value of the car is pointless and a variable thats not really worth looking at.

Price to fix vs price to replace...all the while knowing what you replace it with is going to need to be fixed eventually.

Vehicles, and mechanical machinery in general, are always going to be a net negative.
 
For people playing the shitbox game, the resale value of the car is pointless and a variable thats not really worth looking at.

Price to fix vs price to replace...all the while knowing what you replace it with is going to need to be fixed eventually.

Vehicles, and mechanical machinery in general, are always going to be a net negative.
And going back to original post - price to fix = 50% of price to replace as a starting point for a lot of people I guess?
Devil you know and all that, some folks spend even more to fix and keep.

I think for me it's around 25%. If I have to fork out $1,000 on repairs for something I can get another(with less miles) for $4,000 then it's time to keep put that thousand toward the next purchase instead.
 
Price to fix vs price to replace...all the while knowing what you replace it with is going to need to be fixed eventually.
This.

Hence my Prius thought process. $6500 now and have a 12-year old shit box with 240,000 miles, or $18,000 to replace with what I bought, a 7-year old shit box with an unknown service history. I kept the known shit box.
 
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