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smells things
get a #20, it's a li'l tiny #9 with water going through it
you will not overheat it at 300a, even though it is "rated" for 200a
you will not overheat it at 300a, even though it is "rated" for 200a
I'll check it out for sure.get a #20, it's a li'l tiny #9 with water going through it
you will not overheat it at 300a, even though it is "rated" for 200a
i didn't, and yescliffs
You: didn't go to school for welding, learned from internet friends
this flex is as weak as your 30yrs doing it wrong. me since '07. fucking certs are a joke you might have had to earn it uphill both ways 30yrs ago. now any kid off the street can pass structural within a week. certs dont take schoolingMe: certified in the trade since 94
some bs, mostly that you are ignorant of the reason why -your redneck engineering- 'works'but go ahead and call the bs
Hey, you can win whatever argument you are trying to havei didn't, and yes
this flex is as weak as your 30yrs doing it wrong. me since '07. fucking certs are a joke you might have had to earn it uphill both ways 30yrs ago. now any kid off the street can pass structural within a week. certs dont take schooling
when do certs matter? they dont. i quit with certs as soon as i went on my own. have done water and gas xray, local .gov and .mil never been asked to show a cert.
some bs, mostly that you are ignorant of the reason why -your redneck engineering- 'works'
what was your point?
keeping on track with the thread...
dont do what this guy does. but as he has made clear as long as there is water in the system you'll be fine.
there is no argument that the way your coolling your torch is retarded.Hey, you can win whatever argument you are trying to have
again missed my point
Good at weldingthere is no argument that the way your coolling your torch is retarded.
literally nobody knows your point and i have asked twice now. your being obtuse and have added nothing of value to this thread.
the only one with nothing helpful to add in this thread yet here you are. fuck off back to chit chat.
No!Good at welding
Smart and articulate
Pick one.
This is what always makes me laugh when people are asking about running power to a garage/workshop and people start saying "there's no need for more than 50/60A service for a single person in a home garage...Some of us are main panel poor. With the Dynasty 300, I have rarely, but have, broken the 50 amp/220 breaker.
I think that depends on how proficient you are, especially tube work.If you are just doing 1.5" or 1.75" chassis tubing the water cooling isn't helping a bunch?
Maybe I get a #9 and a #20 later on to replace my #18.I think that depends on how proficient you are, especially tube work.
Me (not very proficient), doesn't matter. I've got enough "off" time where I'm dicking around trying to get into position that the torch doesn't heat soak. Guys that are quicker might heat soak the torch more, but no matter how good you are at chassis work it is relatively low duty cycle and amperage.
Maybe I get a #9 and a #20 later on to replace my #18.
The #18 just sucks regardless, the 20 looks like it would replace my 18 no problem on all but the thickest aluminum jobs.
Flex better than swivel? Never had a swivel but my current #18 handle is a flex and I like it.#20 gang
Love my CK flex head.
Just to clarify, hopefully I don't screw this up
-#9 and 17 are air cooled
-#18 and #20 are water cooled
-#9 and 20 are roughly the same size and smaller than 17/18
-#17 and 18 are roughly the same size
If you think the #18 sucks the 17 is basically the same size just air cooled
#9 is only rated ~120amps
For most home or motorsports fab guys the #20 torch is perfect. Small size, easily handles 250amps I take mine over 300amps daily but only starting on thicker aluminum. If you already have a good cooler and aren't doing 1/2" aluminum, the #20 is the way to go. Unless you are doing field work or something where dragging the cooler around is a pain
You guys got me wondering is it my cables/hoses/sheath what is bumming me out?#20 gang
Love my CK flex head.
Here is a picture of a #9 versus a #20, obviously the 20 has more lines but the sheath cover is similar overall od. The weight isn't really that noticeable between the two.You guys got me wondering is it my cables/hoses/sheath what is bumming me out?
The weight of the "cord" is whats aggregating.
I assume that is smaller/lighter on the #20?
Flex better than swivel? Never had a swivel but my current #18 handle is a flex and I like it.
IN! PM sentHere is a picture of a #9 versus a #20, obviously the 20 has more lines but the sheath cover is similar overall od. The weight isn't really that noticeable between the two.
If you want the #20 in the picture I'd send it to you it is a nova brand that came with my 325ext it doesn't have the correct connectors for my cooler and doesn't have the same threads as my #20 ck stuff. I'll likely never use it, I prefer the ck torches
I usually wrap it round my wristI do a lot of standing TIG work. The soft hoses can be thrown over the shoulder to carry most of the weight. Kind of a game changer when you can't prop easily.
I have a complete extra 25ft set in the box next to the Dynasty. Cause I forget to turn on the water....... and 25 ft away. I did splice in a water wheel so I can verify that water is, infact, going up the hose. When that stuff gets wet it does tingle......I don't remember that happening with rubber/plastic. (AC Tig)The ultra flex hoses are nicer because they are softer and don’t have the rigidness. You are also never holding the whole weight of the entire hoses