Bad Karma
Active member
Flipped LX450 rear, easy... 
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This, especially if your keeping yita 3rd.
Still plan on linking?
MT-TOY
Where's the comet?
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Boomtacoma01
3rd Coast
Another vote for a T100 Rear.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
dntsdad
Central California
I am leaning towards just saying fuck it and biting the bullet and get a Diamond.
Brian quoted me 1530 to my door, which is a ton of cash. I talked to Ruff Stuff and while the housing is much cheaper at $785, I have to find balls (which I don't have unless I want to cut up a good housing that I could sell), and then pay them to weld them on another $300. RS wants $150 to ship from Loomis to Fresno and Diamond says $80 to ship from Colorado to Fresno
Plus I would have to pay tax if I get the RS since I am in California and I don't think I would in Colorado.
Not really saving a bunch going RuffStuff and it pisses me off the get raped on shipping. I've been spoiled by Amazon.
So if my memory is correct, WMS to WMS with my +3 RCVs would be 64.5" in front.
So Ideally I would want a rear about 62"ish??????? I can't remember the sweet spot for the rear being a little narrower than the front. So YotaAtie's suggestion of 2" spacers on the rear of my TG housing sounds like that may be a good setup.
Brian quoted me 1530 to my door, which is a ton of cash. I talked to Ruff Stuff and while the housing is much cheaper at $785, I have to find balls (which I don't have unless I want to cut up a good housing that I could sell), and then pay them to weld them on another $300. RS wants $150 to ship from Loomis to Fresno and Diamond says $80 to ship from Colorado to Fresno
Plus I would have to pay tax if I get the RS since I am in California and I don't think I would in Colorado.
Not really saving a bunch going RuffStuff and it pisses me off the get raped on shipping. I've been spoiled by Amazon.
So if my memory is correct, WMS to WMS with my +3 RCVs would be 64.5" in front.
So Ideally I would want a rear about 62"ish??????? I can't remember the sweet spot for the rear being a little narrower than the front. So YotaAtie's suggestion of 2" spacers on the rear of my TG housing sounds like that may be a good setup.
dntsdad
Central California
Why is this?
It'll be 3 link with ORIs when the front axle swap happens but I am curious still
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
I'm not a fan of trail-queer, but I'd love for someone else to do a review. I'm sure a vendor could get it close to $1k shipped.
https://trail-gear.com/axles/fabricated-front-axle-builder-kit.html
https://trail-gear.com/axles/fabricated-front-axle-builder-kit.html
dntsdad
Central California
I looked at that as well. TG is local to me, right down the street in fact, so I know people that are dealers so I buy at their cost and pickup from TG directly. That makes their stuff more appealing
Add
Pool boy
So a 61" wide front and 67" wide rear?
Sounds like his front is gonna be just under 65". If budget is the name of the game here, a 67" t100 rear for the price of a few hundred bucks would be my go to. Just my .02 though. I'm a cheap bastard though
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I am leaning towards just saying fuck it and biting the bullet and get a Diamond.
Brian quoted me 1530 to my door, which is a ton of cash. I talked to Ruff Stuff and while the housing is much cheaper at $785, I have to find balls (which I don't have unless I want to cut up a good housing that I could sell), and then pay them to weld them on another $300. RS wants $150 to ship from Loomis to Fresno and Diamond says $80 to ship from Colorado to Fresno
Plus I would have to pay tax if I get the RS since I am in California and I don't think I would in Colorado.
Not really saving a bunch going RuffStuff and it pisses me off the get raped on shipping. I've been spoiled by Amazon.
So if my memory is correct, WMS to WMS with my +3 RCVs would be 64.5" in front.
So Ideally I would want a rear about 62"ish??????? I can't remember the sweet spot for the rear being a little narrower than the front. So YotaAtie's suggestion of 2" spacers on the rear of my TG housing sounds like that may be a good setup.
Sounds like all things point to diamond. It really is crazy how good of a value the rock assault kits are, which come with inner axles and the steering links, iirc.
Width bias is personal preference, some guys like them the same, some like a few inches narrower. ~64/62" is right in there? Running ifs hubs I guess?
Look at the pics, the Ruff stuff diff is wider.
The
Cheaper than a pair of wheel spacers?
Running a wider rear is retarded.
dntsdad
Central California
I dont want to kill my turnng radius this time. Seriously cannot make a U turn on a normal street its so bad with Rock Assault under the now.
Like I said, its been a long time since I have been into this stuff and I cannot remember the cause for that. IFS hubs, ball castor, etc. ?
I know that IFS hub will give me more width, but what other pros and cons are there for IFS vs SA hubs?
Like I said, its been a long time since I have been into this stuff and I cannot remember the cause for that. IFS hubs, ball castor, etc. ?
I know that IFS hub will give me more width, but what other pros and cons are there for IFS vs SA hubs?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
The rock assault bells are thicker and don't allow the knuckle to turn as sharp.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Think of IFS hubs as a brodozer with wheels outside the body. Its added stress on the bearings, pins, increases your turning radius. Its cheap width and vendors make options for bolt on bigger brakes.
There's a way to use slip on rotors for the SFA hubs as well. If youre going a full out custom housing, RCVs, etc i have no idea why you'd use IFS hubs.
However, if you use wheels with positive offset, its a moot point.
I like running the ifs hubs for the larger brakes off a tacoma or tundra. I also prefer running the slip on rotor style cause it makes it way easier to disassemble for diff/brif quick access. Pull the snap ring,caliper and bolts holding the hub/spindle chunk and you're at the birf. Don't have to screw with wheel bearing or the old pull the upper arm trick. This is just what works for me, I run the taco brakes on my 4runner to keep a 15" wheel and tundra brakes on my buggy with 17s.
DutchVDub
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2020
- Member Number
- 2909
- Messages
- 89
FWIW I've been going back and forth on axles myself ever since bumping up to 40" stickies. My rig already had 5.29's, ARB's, and a HP front with 30 spline OG Longs. I went back and forth on tons, or what width, etc. Ideally I wanted like a 65-66" WMS (JK Width) and talked to TG and Diamond both. TG is about to offer their 67" wide 8" front in passenger drop and able to run 29" wide leaf springs. Diamond of course can do any width but you pretty much have to buy all new RCV's at about $800. Both Diamond and the TG 67" would be at least a month out. I opted to just go with a TG +5/Tacoma width Rock Assault for the front. I ordered it from Yotamasters Saturday and it showed up to my house today. For $1500 shipped I got the housing with the big fill/inspection port, inner shafts, steering stops, shock mounts, steering links, and all new u-bolts/top plate. I also got some 1.5" wheel spacers to replicate IFS hubs and bump it out to about 64.75" WMS. Now I'm wondering what to do for the rear. Its an IFS width housing with 1.5" spacers already so its just under 62" WMS currently. Not bad, but I'd like to be a little wider for stability sake. I'm thinking either Tacoma width out back or just run it as is and start building tons since I know that even with a light foot the 8" R&P and 30 spline shafts won't last long. I'm also tempted to put my 3" wheel spacers from the front on the rear axle but I don't think the axle flanges will like that. 3" wheel spacers seem sketch as f**k to me. That is the main reason I wanted to throw a new front housing at the front for now. Just get my steering better, lose the massive wheel spacers, and get a bit more width/stability without having to start building tons right off the bat.
The newer Tacoma 8.75" with 32 spline shafts is a thought as well, to keep it Yota but I think in the long run Tons or 609's are the way to go.
Edit: And yes, I know $1500 is a lot for a housing upgrade. Realistically it was $1000 plus shipping for the housing. I could've sleeved my steering or bought new inserts and tubing but figured this was easier, same thing with buying new steering stops and shock mounts vs cutting mine off of the stock housing. I also didn't want to reuse my U-bolts that are cut down all the way to the nut and like to loosen up so figured the $70 for a new flip kit wasn't a big deal. Realistically trying to find a Pass drop D60 right now seems pretty tough. I found a complete Dodge dually KP one local for $850 or a GM one missing shafts and hubs (but with 5.38's) for $1000. Either way I was going to be reworking my entire front suspension, buying shafts or at least stub shafts for the Dodge, and either forking out $400 for 6-lug hubs or having to swap wheels. That'd still leave me with a mismatched width and way weaker rear axle. I figured this solves a majority of my current wants and then I can slowly build up some tons and recoup the money once they're done by selling off all of the Toyota stuff with the wheels. I just need my current axles to last a year or so while that happens and luckily I do have a complete spare rear axle with the correct gears and a spool. Gives me spare rear shafts and a spare third I could toss in the front too.
The newer Tacoma 8.75" with 32 spline shafts is a thought as well, to keep it Yota but I think in the long run Tons or 609's are the way to go.
Edit: And yes, I know $1500 is a lot for a housing upgrade. Realistically it was $1000 plus shipping for the housing. I could've sleeved my steering or bought new inserts and tubing but figured this was easier, same thing with buying new steering stops and shock mounts vs cutting mine off of the stock housing. I also didn't want to reuse my U-bolts that are cut down all the way to the nut and like to loosen up so figured the $70 for a new flip kit wasn't a big deal. Realistically trying to find a Pass drop D60 right now seems pretty tough. I found a complete Dodge dually KP one local for $850 or a GM one missing shafts and hubs (but with 5.38's) for $1000. Either way I was going to be reworking my entire front suspension, buying shafts or at least stub shafts for the Dodge, and either forking out $400 for 6-lug hubs or having to swap wheels. That'd still leave me with a mismatched width and way weaker rear axle. I figured this solves a majority of my current wants and then I can slowly build up some tons and recoup the money once they're done by selling off all of the Toyota stuff with the wheels. I just need my current axles to last a year or so while that happens and luckily I do have a complete spare rear axle with the correct gears and a spool. Gives me spare rear shafts and a spare third I could toss in the front too.
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