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What rear are you running?

dntsdad

Central California
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
47
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1,267
Loc
Central California
92 Pickup that I am contemplating swapping an 86 Runner body onto.

I have a TG rear in there now with an elocker but I would like to get it wider in back. Put some junk in the truck!!

Never really seen a widened Toyota rear, centering an FJ rear is probably out of my skillset, not going 60 as I dont want to put that much money in.

Diamond or RuffStuff? Not even what a diamond costs are there isn't pricing on the site that I can see. RuffStuff looks to be 1k assuming they will lengthen.

I have a complete, wheel to wheel, elocker rear here but I have heard that they are weak as hell.

Thinking 14 bolt perhaps but seeing what are options.
 
Tacoma width TG rear? Or one of their 8" fabbed housings?
I'm running TG 609.
 
92 pu excab
3.4, 5 sp, dual 2.28/4.7
TG Rock Assaults in front and rear
Have the spacers to widen the front 2" per side, and may do that with the Toyota housing, or may just go to RuffStuff/Diamond/ Not sure yet
currently on 5" springs but going to 3 link with ORIs soon

I just know that I want a wider stance. I can change wheel backspacing down the road but I would like to avoid spacers.

Going to run 40s. I am not a throttle happy, "hold my beer" type anymore. Nice and easy
 
I'm guessing you have the ifs width housings now?

If so, get the Tacoma width or +5 (whatever the widest one is) then just run those spacers in the rear.

I have been doing this basically forever. I had an FJ80 front and IFS rear with 2" spacers in my tubed Sami. Later ran the same set up in my 4runner for a few years. Built a Toyota/60 rear that was 62" wide to run with the FJ80 front. Ended up with a GM60 front and some free 6 lug hubs, couldn't sell the rear 60, so I threw the same 2" spacers on it and ran it for a while.

Spacers suck on the front, but not a huge deal on the rear, imo.
 
Factory width TG or Tacoma?



My last quote from FROR for a 9.5 FF housing was the following:

$950 i supply spindles

$1250 they supplied stock

$1350 for billet

$1050 for their design which uses front mini spindles and hubs



I elected to run a FZJ80 rear in stock form with a grizzly. Front is still undecided since that truck is now pushed to the back of the line for projects.
 
Wait, did you mean the spacers that you cut and weld to the knuckle balls? I wouldn't use those on an aftermarket housing, would they even fit?
 
Factory width TG or Tacoma?



My last quote from FROR for a 9.5 FF housing was the following:

$950 i supply spindles

$1250 they supplied stock

$1350 for billet

$1050 for their design which uses front mini spindles and hubs



I elected to run a FZJ80 rear in stock form with a grizzly. Front is still undecided since that truck is now pushed to the back of the line for projects.

Ouch. My FZJ80 rear was $300. I paid $50 for the matching front.
 
Wait, did you mean the spacers that you cut and weld to the knuckle balls? I wouldn't use those on an aftermarket housing, would they even fit?

yes and no I am not thinking of using them on an aftermarket housing. I have another stock front that I was thinking about widening with those and ditching/selling the TG Rock Assault front


Yes, both TG housings are IFS width. I got them in a trade for doing a 3.4 swap for a guy who worked for TG at the time before TG made Tacoma ones.
 
I look now and then for FZJ housings and honestly have never found any other than the other side of the country from time to time.

If I could find a set I would go with those for sure.
 
Going from an aftermarket to a stock housing with spacers would be silly. I'd sell the front housing and go to the Tacoma width housing, if you're happy with TG. Like I said 2" spacers in the rear isn't that big of a deal. Or sell the rear and go with Tacoma housings f&r

FZJ80 rear is cool, I had one as well. It's going to be about 2.5" wider than the front Tacoma with SA hubs (61" vs 63.5") but the bigger issue is it will not work with the stock gas tank since it's off to that side.

You can do a 6 lug 14b also, it will be about 65" with solid brand 6 lug hubs, or 63" if you redrill some dually or c&c hubs. One good thing is you will never have to worry about it :usa: and if you shave them you can get close to D44 ground clearance. I've always liked the idea of an overkill rear since that's where the weight goes when going uphill and worst case you can usually limp home in 2wd.
 
I couldn't keep a toy 8" rear under my truck for very long before losing a 5.29 R/P on 37 reds... I finally bought a ruffstuff 9 that was set up Toyota ifs width, semi float, and 35 spline. Haven't had a problem in 8 years now. I ended up rebuild my rear TG rock assualt and selling it to help recover some money.
 
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I may be missing, but if you're on a budget, I don't see any reason you can't widen the aftermarket TG front axle ? If done properly, there will be no loss in strength.
 
I may be missing, but if you're on a budget, I don't see any reason you can't widen the aftermarket TG front axle ? If done properly, there will be no loss in strength.

I been out of the Toyota thang for a while now and I forgotten a ton of stuff that I use to know but there was a reason that this wasn't a good idea but I cannot remember now what it is.

Maybe I am misremembering though :homer::homer:
 
I couldn't keep a toy 8" rear under my truck for very long before losing a 5.29 R/P on 37 reds... I finally bought a ruffstuff 9 that was set up Toyota ifs width, semi float, and 35 spline. Haven't had a problem in 8 years now. I ended up rebuild my rear TG rock assualt and selling it to help recover some money.

I was the same, which is where the D60 with the same TD60 kit that Stubs runs. I got an open box version on Amazon for like $300, a semi float d60u (best clearance from a D60 and 3.5" tubes) from the junk yard for $180. So for less than $600 i had a 35 spline D60 62" wide that could use any toyota brakes.

I almost pulled the trigger on a 9" front with FJ80 outters, but couldn't spend that much to be stuck 30 spline. I

T100 rear is a good match for a Chevy D44 front. Or spend the coin on "full width" aftermarket housing.
 
FZJ80 rear is cool, I had one as well. It's going to be about 2.5" wider than the front Tacoma with SA hubs (61" vs 63.5") but the bigger issue is it will not work with the stock gas tank since it's off to that side.

You know the cool part about 9.5? It's a symmetrical pattern. Flip the housing over and weld on a $100 Barnes4wd cover. Voila, pinion cheated to the driver side ~3.5".

if 30 spline suits you, you can build a pretty bomb proof axle for <$1000.
 
You know the cool part about 9.5? It's a symmetrical pattern. Flip the housing over and weld on a $100 Barnes4wd cover. Voila, pinion cheated to the driver side ~3.5".

if 30 spline suits you, you can build a pretty bomb proof axle for <$1000.

I kinda thought about that, I'm guessing it would just be relocating the vent, probably redoing, or at least reconfiguring the brake lines, and also swapping brakes around so the calipers aren't on the bottom.

All in, not bad. It's still not as beefy as an aftermarket housing.

That's the thing, is you can build a 35 spline axle for that much too. Just depends on what you want.
 
I kinda thought about that, I'm guessing it would just be relocating the vent, probably redoing, or at least reconfiguring the brake lines, and also swapping brakes around so the calipers aren't on the bottom.

All in, not bad. It's still not as beefy as an aftermarket housing.

That's the thing, is you can build a 35 spline axle for that much too. Just depends on what you want.

FZJ housing is approximately .250” thick and the differential flange is around .375”. Not sure what the thickness of a semi float 9.5 housing is.
 
I kinda thought about that, I'm guessing it would just be relocating the vent, probably redoing, or at least reconfiguring the brake lines, and also swapping brakes around so the calipers aren't on the bottom.

All in, not bad. It's still not as beefy as an aftermarket housing.

That's the thing, is you can build a 35 spline axle for that much too. Just depends on what you want.

Yep, just swapping left to right. The ebrake sucks in stock form so I tossed it.

For a 65-69" axle you could definitely build an 8 lug axle on the cheap. If hes staying yota front, theres no reason for a "1 ton" rear, that's just overkill for the sake of it. Semi float sucks.
 
I'm running a non elocker FF fj80 axle in my tacoma with a spartan. I flipped a front fj60 axle for this truck, and flipping a rear would be easy. You can even get a threaded barb fitting and screw it in the stock drain plug for the vent. I chopped the diff cover off, and welded it back on, you also need to cut some new grooves for the R&P. Honestly cutting the brackets off would take longer than flipping it. They are hard to find, I happened upon mine online at a junkyard and sped up there to buy it the same day.
 
Yep, just swapping left to right. The ebrake sucks in stock form so I tossed it.

For a 65-69" axle you could definitely build an 8 lug axle on the cheap. If hes staying yota front, theres no reason for a "1 ton" rear, that's just overkill for the sake of it. Semi float sucks.

Semi float is fine for 90% of trail rigs, actually probably higher. I prefer full float also, but never had an issue with semi float, and really haven't seen anyone in person have an issue on the trail, besides c clip, but that's another conversation.

35 spline semifloat 60 or 9" is stronger than a ff fj80 rear anyway.

He asked about going wider, and mentioned a 14b, can be had 6 lug, full float, good clearance and 63" wide for cheap. My buddy runs one with 37 km2s (basically 35s) in his jeep and loves it. Overkill with a Toyota front? Maybe, but iirc, he's running a 3.4, so he'll probably want a bigger front eventually.

Toyota guys just love to spend tons of money on Toyota shit, just because Toyota. Most Toyota guys could probably have some fab 9" housings and an atlas for what they have into their diamond or whatever axles that still break r&p's. They work for some, but when you add a bigger motor and a full body 4runner, you might have issues.



What size tires are you wanting to run?
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Just to add some detail. I already have a set of RCVs that are +3 on each side brand new in the box here. I bought them in anticipation of building a stock housing but now I am thinking...........too much probably

They have to be used. Great product and way too much money to eat or take a loss on so I am probably leaning towards a custom housing or a Toyota
 
6" over stock gets you to ~61" with solid axle hubs or ~64" with ifs hubs.
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I'd spend your money on a nice fab housing in the front and run what you got in the rear with wheel spacers.
 
Just to add some detail. I already have a set of RCVs that are +3 on each side brand new in the box here. I bought them in anticipation of building a stock housing but now I am thinking...........too much probably

They have to be used. Great product and way too much money to eat or take a loss on so I am probably leaning towards a custom housing or a Toyota

Just get a front rock assualt and change one inner shaft.
 
6" over stock gets you to ~61" with solid axle hubs or ~64" with ifs hubs.
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I'd spend your money on a nice fab housing in the front and run what you got in the rear with wheel spacers.

I think that is what I am going to do. I can recoup a ton from selling this TG front and I have most of the shit to build a new axle sitting around new.

Diamond vs RuffStuff............go!!
 
I'm going to say that a ruffstuff housing is going to be tough to work with leaf springs and the diff in the factory spot. Diamond is going to be a lot easier to fit.
 
i wheeled on toy axles for right at 4 years on 39 reds but I'm no throttle demon either. Broke a front and a rear r&p last year. Went 60 welded/14 detroit, stock axles in both and I still don't beat on it. Should hold up just fine and the added stability from the width is a bonus.
 
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