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CarterKraft said:
Starlink dc conversion done.
Lifepo4 conversion done just needs battery switch I'll stick in it tomorrow.
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Just the house batteries or starting batteries too?
 
RunningProblem said:
CarterKraft are those the Mini batteries, or the full size ones?
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The full size group 31.
I'm not sure if I fucked up or what yet, I had another variant in my cart and then at the last minute Amazon suggested another flavor (maybe the mini) then this one popped up some time after that.
This is the TM (trolling motor) 31/100ah but doesn't have bluetooth which I think I would like.

My brother bought two of the 230ah batteries for his and ran his AC off of them for several hours at a time.

I would rather have built my own pack with CALB or equivalent cells but I don't really have the need.

At 100ah for $250 it's pretty damn cheap....
 
you’re gonna run your ac off house batteries? I put a soft start on our fifth wheel ac. It works wonders. But with four house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter it’ll only run for a few minutes. Not sure what I’m missing in your setup?
 
rockdog57 said:
you’re gonna run your ac off house batteries? I put a soft start on our fifth wheel ac. It works wonders. But with four house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter it’ll only run for a few minutes. Not sure what I’m missing in your setup?
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I'm not but my brother does with 460ah of these brand batteries.

I explained how stupid his setup is for hours, to the point of name calling etc. but he's a hard headed shit and thought this is good.

He sold 2x 2k Watt generators to use his f150 hybrid as a generator, again not the smartest plan IMO.
 
CarterKraft ive looked into building a 304ah using a 100-150 amp DALY/JK BMS, and EVE cels but every time I look up the cost it seems smarter to buy the LiTime batteries.

I was checking my AC this weekend and it appears to be about a 20amp draw and around 1700 watts constant on the coldest setting. It might be cool to run it on battery power in case my generator runs out of gas, BUUUUUT…I’d just go home at that point.
 
RunningProblem said:
CarterKraft ive looked into building a 304ah using a 100-150 amp DALY/JK BMS, and EVE cels but every time I look up the cost it seems smarter to buy the LiTime batteries.

I was checking my AC this weekend and it appears to be about a 20amp draw and around 1700 watts constant on the coldest setting. It might be cool to run it on battery power in case my generator runs out of gas, BUUUUUT…I’d just go home at that point.
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Yeah exactly, mine pulls around 15-18 amps but it's a generator or shore power only deal. If the generator dies, load up :lmao:
 
I earned a flat tire this weekend then lost the 2 lights holding the spare on, and the metal bracket because I left them on the bumper.
When I got home I discovered the spare tire holder has a pin to let the tire lean down. I don’t know why it would do this but maybe someone can explain it. All I can see it doing is dumping the tire on the ground, and then I have to put it back up to mount the flat. Maybe it would be helpful if it leaned back?

I made a grade 8 solution to a grade 2 problem using some stuff I had on hand. I might be fancy and buy some spare 1/2-20 lug nuts to hold this instead of grade 8 nuts.
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Maybe one of those "features" to sell more mounts?

Definitely be harder to get back on the mount that way.
 
Waiting on the new AC unit I connected the water hose and started priming everything, water heater, lines etc.
I couldn't get the water pump to prime worth a f on its own.
I switched the water selector over to sanitize and then heard a hissing noise...

That was the sournd of a high pressure water spray from the cracked pump inlet filter douching my electrical compartment :eek:
I got the carpet dryer and some towels and due to it being 95* in the trailer it dried out pretty quick.

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Got the new AC installed, didn't bother with trying to fix the old one right now. While I can probably recharge the unit I won't know how long it will last so it seems more sensible to just swap it out.

This is the old Domestic brisk 2 - 15k
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The new Furion HE Chill 15k is really similar... but has two fan motors vs the single motor of the old unit. The fan motor game is confusing because I recall the single fan motor being a "feature".

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The new one actually works so a comparison is obvious, it worked great, who knows if it's better than the old unit. The only obvious difference I see is the dual fan motors.
 
CarterKraft said:
As per usual I'm doing a full rebuild on my trailer 2 weeks before leaving for the big trip...

Lifepo4 batteries 2x 100ah, total re organization of the electronics/water bay
12v fan
Starlink dc conversion with indoor/outdoor switches.
New tail lights
Replace 7 pin cord
:homer:


:dustin:

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Does your converter actually give your batteries a good charge? I'm pretty sure that's the same WFCO 9855 that came stock in my old 2010 Keystone Laredo 5th wheel. It charged slow as hell; it was fine when I left the house (always plugged in), but it would never charge worth a darn running off a generator (or plugged in for a short time). From what I read it was a common problem where they wouldn't go into boost mode if they didn't sense enough load, but mine wouldn't go into boost mode even with a bank of 6 golf cart batteries. It was bad enough that if I needed to charge, I'd just hook jumper cables up to my truck and let it run for an hour. Eventually it died and I replaced it with an IOTA 45A that would actually put out the full 45 amps (and just like you, I got it all finished up right before a week long trip with no hookups :D).
 
pcorssmit said:
Does your converter actually give your batteries a good charge? I'm pretty sure that's the same WFCO 9855 that came stock in my old 2010 Keystone Laredo 5th wheel. It charged slow as hell; it was fine when I left the house (always plugged in), but it would never charge worth a darn running off a generator (or plugged in for a short time). From what I read it was a common problem where they wouldn't go into boost mode if they didn't sense enough load, but mine wouldn't go into boost mode even with a bank of 6 golf cart batteries. It was bad enough that if I needed to charge, I'd just hook jumper cables up to my truck and let it run for an hour. Eventually it died and I replaced it with an IOTA 45A that would actually put out the full 45 amps (and just like you, I got it all finished up right before a week long trip with no hookups :D).
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i haven't seen much more than 40 amps.
But as I have explained to my brother I have not needed much shore power charging.
When I am "on battery" I have solar power which to this point has been more than enough to charge the batteries and run all my shit, avg to 1600 watt hours per day.
 
It sounds like yours works a lot better than mine did. I also didn't have solar helping out. When I setup the battery bank the goal was to just rely on the batteries for long weekends without needing solar or a generator. This was also back ~2010 when the solar stuff wasn't where it is now.
 
Put the plugged tire on the front axle and moved the front tire to the rear, then repacked wheel bearings. Yesterday I filled propane. Apparently propane is expensive in summer not winter.
 
Got a guy detailing our fifth wheel in the driveway. He’s melting down in the heat . I’ve got a feeling I’m gonna pay for him suffering!:lmao: On the bright side, the side he’s done so far looks great. Maybe if my damn neighbor would leave him alone he’ll finish it off today. He wants him
to detail his motor home and his boat.:mad3:
 
We got propane the other day as well....$4 a fucking gallon :laughing:

I don't know when propane surpassed gas, but this is retarded
 
After putting the new AC up I kept intermittently popping the AC breaker. Every couple days or something. Not attempt to rule out all causes I installed a soft start on the compressor.

They include some of those crimp on wire nuts but I can't go that way... I used butt crimp splice barrels with adhesive lined heat shrink.

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Also new tail lights before heading out. I kept having trailer lamp fault once I got this new truck, couldn't identify what was wrong but it has these really shitty old school lights with 1157 bulbs that were plastic and one already broke the cover on.
Used some 4" receiver channel I welded ends on and a strap behind it to screw to the bumper tube. I wanted to just plasma cut the ovals in the tube but after looking the tube might be too thin to support that so it will need some double plates welded to it, not something I wanted to get into the week before leaving.


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Soft start is the way to go:smokin: I put ours on when my 3200 watt geny wouldn’t pull our ac in our old fifth wheel. I pulled it off and put it on the one we have now. Ac can start and stop with the generator in eco mode.
 
rockdog57 said:
Soft start is the way to go:smokin: I put ours on when my 3200 watt geny wouldn’t pull our ac in our old fifth wheel. I pulled it off and put it on the one we have now. Ac can start and stop with the generator in eco mode.
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I wanted it anyway for hopefully starting off a Victron multiplus or maybe the 2kw inverter in the new Super Duties. I didn't mention it but I also replaced the circuit breaker at the same time, obviously not the best way to troubleshoot it but like I said I wanted the soft start anyway.

The Spartan power unit is new to me, it's half the price of the micro air and seems to work.
 
Pulled the bumper off to mount some recovery hooks that I’ve had on the shelf for at least a year. I lost some very pointless fog lights that were in this spot, so really gave up nothing.

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My a/C was tripping our main breaker, not the a/C circuit ok hot days just thr last week we were using it.

Only a 20 amp main with 30 am service, seemed odd. Didn't do it with shore power, did on the generator
 
Provience said:
My a/C was tripping our main breaker, not the a/C circuit ok hot days just thr last week we were using it.

Only a 20 amp main with 30 am service, seemed odd. Didn't do it with shore power, did on the generator
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Yeah that's sort of odd but probably just means the main breaker is a little tired.

These 30 amp RVs stress the hell out of the electrical system.

The panel meter I put in really demonstrated that too me. AC, water heater and refrigerator is 28ish amps.
 
Lol, mine has a switch for the electric water heater assist and the microwave. One or the other but never both. If it went down to a single AC unit, would could probably do away with that.
 
pcorssmit said:
Does your converter actually give your batteries a good charge? I'm pretty sure that's the same WFCO 9855 that came stock in my old 2010 Keystone Laredo 5th wheel. It charged slow as hell; it was fine when I left the house (always plugged in), but it would never charge worth a darn running off a generator (or plugged in for a short time). From what I read it was a common problem where they wouldn't go into boost mode if they didn't sense enough load, but mine wouldn't go into boost mode even with a bank of 6 golf cart batteries. It was bad enough that if I needed to charge, I'd just hook jumper cables up to my truck and let it run for an hour. Eventually it died and I replaced it with an IOTA 45A that would actually put out the full 45 amps (and just like you, I got it all finished up right before a week long trip with no hookups :D).
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Long story but I had a water leak getting ready for this last trip, it killed the converter between the time of the water leak and me leaving for the trip...
After I got back I pulled it out to investigate and found a bunch of corrosion on a logic board inside. I cleaned that all off and it started working fine again. I intend on getting a better Lifepo4 converter with the proper voltage but this will work for now.

While I had it out and working I thought I'd test it out. It does do 55 amps but the voltage might be too low to do that in practice.


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New rubber roof. Trailer is a 2003. I'm trying to sell it. The two people who looked at it climbed on the roof and never called again.

8 hours of prep work, a tack coat then three or four more coatings. I used the pressure washer with some dawn dish soap mixed in (3 ounces in a gallon) and let it soak a while before seeing how much could come off. A lot came off. I 3" Eternabond taped the rips and all four edges.

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I went light on the first few coatings. Last one I laid on thick because the roof was covered and this was just extra insurance.

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I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Liquid Rubber roof. No primer. Everyone said 5 gallons was double what they needed. I used probably 4 gallon. It was 95+ and maybe 20% humidity and layers were dry enough to stand on in about 5 hours. I had my solar cables stick once or twice so I had to recoat those areas.
I read mixed reviews about this product. I store this outside and no one had ever done repairs on the roof including me. I'll try to report back in a few years when I inspect it again.


Products Used:
5 gallon RC roof coating
shopliquidrubber.com

High-Quality RV Roof Sealant | Liquid Rubber Coating

Get the best RV roof sealant from Liquid Rubber. Our advanced roof coating ensures leak-proof, weather-resistant protection for your RV. Shop today!
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Eternabond 3" tape. 100 feet purchased. Trailer is 25 ft long.

Roller
Podoy Tire Patch Wooden Handle... Amazon.com

3/8 nap rollers
Don't try reusing them like paint rollers. They're $2. Don't be cheap.
 
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