What's new
By:
Filters

What did you do for your ford today?

Picked up a 2015 f250 with a 6.2 last week. The old IDI needs a engine soon, and I didn't want to have to find a truck last minute if it dies.

The sunroof is stuck open. Looks like that job is going to suck, for something I'll never open again.
Any tips to make it suck less?
PXL_20241024_172334774.MP.jpg
 
Its hard, but i've had success before by working the slide and the button simultaneously and give it just enough of nudge to get it started. If something is broken in the track etc i dont know.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
Levigarrett76 said:
Its hard, but i've had success before by working the slide and the button simultaneously and give it just enough of nudge to get it started. If something is broken in the track etc i dont know.
Click to expand...
No. It's broken, it's slides at random angles and Jams up
The window is shut at least, but it's not fully shut. The motors not pulling the back of the glass down fully
 
Tried flexing out the F250 with the 37s to see if they hit the fender. I was embarrassed enough by the lack of flex that I didn't bother turning the wheel :laughing:

Was in 2wd, passenger rear was off the ground

20241027_152329.jpg
20241027_152409.jpg
 
DMG said:
I swapped my 23 gallon tank for the 36 gallon tank. $75 from a junkyard, direct bolt in. I need to tell the pcm with Forscan so my dte is correct

20240813_161452.jpg
Click to expand...

NICE!! I love the 48 gallon on the new one. Ccan get to AOAA and back without stopping now. Used to have to add at least 10 gallons on that round trip with the old Dodge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
Pulled the engine apart, lucky for me.it was not the head gasket, but the intake was leaking. According to the internet they leak pretty easy when over torqued. Replaced the gasket and it no longer leaks.

Had a bad misfire, had taken the distributor out and by the time I reset the timing the cat was already glowing. Checked all the vacumn lines and wires and everything looked fine. Started pulling plugs and number 7 was covered in fuel. Will play with it more tonight making sure it is getting spark.
 
OX1 said:
NICE!! I love the 48 gallon on the new one. Ccan get to AOAA and back without stopping now. Used to have to add at least 10 gallons on that round trip with the old Dodge.
Click to expand...
I am getting over 20mpg on the highway and backroads lately so 700+ miles of range is nice. Plus I can fill up in Ohio or WV when I am there for much cheaper gas.
 
The scratches did hone out well enough we are going to re ring this block. Started honing some of the other cylinders.

Need to move on to testing the heads, valve seats to see how much work we need to do there.

Then maybe we can order parts.

20241105_111302.jpg
 
Just ordered some Banks Performance stuff for my 2016 F350 6.7 diesel. Derringer controller, iDash monitor gauge, monster pedal commander thingy and the ram air intake. Hoping for better fuel mileage while towing a 33 foot goose neck horse trailer. Next step is the 4" tail pipe as funds allow. We'll see if it makes a difference in drivability and mileage
 
Stumped with this misfire. Plug wires getting spark, threw on a new plug wire, changed nothing. New plug, changed nothing. Pulled injector out to test it and it worked fine.

Pulled some codes and it gave me 14. Checked all the boxes I found online for the code, including replacing the distributor, and it changed nothing.

Frusterating since it ran perfect before I fixed the leak, and checked every connection and everything looks fine.
 
LScout800 said:
Stumped with this misfire. Plug wires getting spark, threw on a new plug wire, changed nothing. New plug, changed nothing. Pulled injector out to test it and it worked fine.

Pulled some codes and it gave me 14. Checked all the boxes I found online for the code, including replacing the distributor, and it changed nothing.

Frusterating since it ran perfect before I fixed the leak, and checked every connection and everything looks fine.
Click to expand...
How did the plugs look? It may be time for a compression test
 
DMG said:
How did the plugs look? It may be time for a compression test
Click to expand...

I was going to suggest a burnt valve from based on who knows how long the intake manifold leak was left go, but he had the heads off I assume he checked all that stuff before reassembly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
The issue was a hole in the flexable portion of the EGR pipe. I saw something that it was a common failure point on these and could cause the issues I was having. Check it and sure enough it torn, must have joustled it when putting it back together.

Swapped in a new one and forgot to take my rags out of the runners when putting the plenum back on. Pulled it back off and managed to tear the gasket :homer:. Parts store has a new one coming in the morning.
 
1200 miles in, tried filling up pump kicked off at .70 :shaking:

Think a 4x4 will hold or should I go 6x6?

IMG_0643.jpeg
 
Some needed maintenance on my old Ford. Last time I fired it up, I had a gusher of diesel pouring off the back of the block. Chased it down, and the o-rings on the fuel bowl drain had failed (they were 23 years old) so I pulled the bowl, changed all the O-rings and stretched the relief spring a tad and it's back to new again with no leaks.

I also had a very slow leak on the master cylinder as well, so since I was doing maintenance, I bench bled the new master and got it installed.

There are a few more things I'd like to take care of, but those will wait for another day. Nice to have it ready to roll again.

I have a redhead steering box to install, a front end rebuild kit I'd like to do yet, and a set of 4.38s andaster kits I'd like to throw at it, to bring it back to house pulling ready. It does ok with 3.73s, big turbo and tuner, but 4.38s would prep it for 37s.
20241108_162629.jpg
20241108_162642.jpg
20241108_162648.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20241108_190326.jpg
    20241108_190326.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
ANGELO said:
Picked up a 2015 f250 with a 6.2 last week. The old IDI needs a engine soon, and I didn't want to have to find a truck last minute if it dies.

The sunroof is stuck open. Looks like that job is going to suck, for something I'll never open again.
Any tips to make it suck less?
PXL_20241024_172334774.MP.jpg
Click to expand...
Multi-quote fail on my part.

If it's like mine, there are really thin plastic fingers on the back of the rail the sunroof uses to index when to stop moving. They crack and break. I found a kit for $125 in pre-covid buck to fix it. Basically you rivet in new rails, grease the slides and reinstall everything. The PITA part is you have to halfway gut the truck. I removed both front seats and some trim, you need to pull the entire headliner down and or out. The track for the sunroof was pretty simple, 4 bolts IIRC. Not a hateful job, but not a 15 minute thing either. Clean the threads on the bottom of the seat bolts before you try to remove them.
 
Pony_Driver said:
Multi-quote fail on my part.

If it's like mine, there are really thin plastic fingers on the back of the rail the sunroof uses to index when to stop moving. They crack and break. I found a kit for $125 in pre-covid buck to fix it. Basically you rivet in new rails, grease the slides and reinstall everything. The PITA part is you have to halfway gut the truck. I removed both front seats and some trim, you need to pull the entire headliner down and or out. The track for the sunroof was pretty simple, 4 bolts IIRC. Not a hateful job, but not a 15 minute thing either. Clean the threads on the bottom of the seat bolts before you try to remove them.
Click to expand...
Wasn't terrible, but I don't want to do it again. I would pay extra to not have a sunroof.
If I keep the track and rubber greased up, and open it once a week will it still break? Sunroof is something I'll never decide to open, but I don't want to to seize up after sitting for a year, then break when I open it to clear the drains.
 
Pony_Driver said:
What kind of ladder is that?
Click to expand...
Topside creeper. Fantastic invention to save your back. They make one's where you can lay completely flat while you work on the top side of the engine, this is only a partial. Here is the one I have. I won't work on a truck engine without one anymore.

www.vevor.com

VEVOR Automotive Top Creeper, with Adjustable Height 48" to 76", 400 LBS Capacity High Creeper, 4 Swivel Caster Wheels, Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Auto Repair and Maintenance | VEVOR US

Shop VEVOR Automotive Top Creeper, with Adjustable Height 48" to 76", 400 LBS Capacity High Creeper, 4 Swivel Caster Wheels, Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Auto Repair and Maintenance at lowest price, 2-day delivery, 30-day returns. Shop now at VEVOR.
www.vevor.com www.vevor.com
 
Got an 08 frame cut, didn't die unloading it.

20241108_093820.jpg


Preview of project 4.Bro!

20241108_104303.jpg


Need to get legs an casters on it.

Edit: my 17" methods fit over the brakes, just bairly. Wheel weights should clear the caliper. There will be no double stacking......
 
1Sinner said:
Topside creeper. Fantastic invention to save your back. They make one's where you can lay completely flat while you work on the top side of the engine, this is only a partial. Here is the one I have. I won't work on a truck engine without one anymore.

www.vevor.com

VEVOR Automotive Top Creeper, with Adjustable Height 48" to 76", 400 LBS Capacity High Creeper, 4 Swivel Caster Wheels, Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Auto Repair and Maintenance | VEVOR US

Shop VEVOR Automotive Top Creeper, with Adjustable Height 48" to 76", 400 LBS Capacity High Creeper, 4 Swivel Caster Wheels, Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Auto Repair and Maintenance at lowest price, 2-day delivery, 30-day returns. Shop now at VEVOR.
www.vevor.com www.vevor.com
Click to expand...

I bought one of those a couple years back when i was doing a headgasket on my 7.3. One of the best things i ever bought :smokin: Game changer for working under the hood of a lifted truck.
 
Got my Baja Designs pods from the group buy. Looked at mounting them on my Superduty Friday night, ditch light brackets are $$$ and I'm a cheap ass. Thought they would look cool on the mirror. Yesterday I pulled the passenger mirror since it was already a little fucked and attempted to pull the plastic trim off off, so see what the metal structure looked like. Proceeded to fuck up the mirror :laughing: A little more exploratory cutting and I found the pivot screw for the mirror assembly. Drilled a hole in the top of the mirror, trimmed with a razor knife to fit a 5/16 nut as a spacer, and the BD bracket bolted on nicely. "Welded" up the broken mirror with a map gas torch and a screwdriver, since I can't find my soldering iron. Snaked some wires and got it all tucked in the engine bay, used the existing relay for the light bar in the grille to trigger the BD lights, will probably revisit that later.

Pics in the field are headlights only, then headlights with the light bar and BD lights.

20241110_130711.jpg

20241110_135012~2.jpg

20241110_153305~2.jpg


20241110_153343.jpg
20241110_172113.jpg
20241110_172337.jpg
20241110_172344.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh