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Weird front end noise 2012 silverado 1500

Yeah, that’s a weird noise. Sounds different than what I heard when my unit bearings were going out. Are you feeling anything in the steering?
 
Can you kick it to neutral quick enough? Get off the gas? Make any difference? Power steering pump failing? Something in the front dress on the engine? Not many of those trucks have high mileage, so you may have unique problems.

Don't rule out last year's unit bearing either, I know you bought the $43 one:flipoff2:

BINGO! I think anyway. It's leaking grease, really rough, locks up by hand, sounds awfull now that I have it off.

I'm rebuilding the whole front end while I am in there with moog stuff. Lowers are pretty loose, but it looks like everything is original based on the staked ball joints? Doesn't seem possible at 300k+ but sure looks like it.
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moog is garbage nowadays
the stock ball joints on those have been lasting a LOT longer than normal since they took the grease fittings off of them, coincidence? I dunno
 
BINGO! I think anyway. It's leaking grease, really rough, locks up by hand, sounds awfull now that I have it off.

I'm rebuilding the whole front end while I am in there with moog stuff. Lowers are pretty loose, but it looks like everything is original based on the staked ball joints? Doesn't seem possible at 300k+ but sure looks like it.

Fuck Moog. I'm usually able to score Delco stuff pretty reasonably on rock auto or amazon.
 
eh, toss them in, just don't be too shocked if you only get a more "normal total GM ifs rebuild" 50k miles out of them
 
This thread really makes my love my TTB. Sure it wears tires like crazy but with all the sideways and peeling out I do that just means the front and rear wear about the same rate and tire are so damn quick and easy to change out compared to suspension parts.
 
This thread really makes my love my TTB. Sure it wears tires like crazy but with all the sideways and peeling out I do that just means the front and rear wear about the same rate and tire are so damn quick and easy to change out compared to suspension parts.

I'm okay with needing to do ball joints and TRE's at 300k miles to have a nice ride and long tire life. You stick with what works for you, but cracked axle beams, harsh ride, and diagonal tire wear aren't for everyone.
 
TTB is freaking stupid.

I bought new lower ball joints and upper control arms for my 2009 Silverado from NAPA. Had grease fittings in everything, and am now getting outside tire wear a year after new alignment. My factory ball joints made it 100k miles. The AC Delco stuff I have been getting from Rock Auto says made in China, and sometimes Mexico.

Basically impossible to find any quality parts US made anymore. Frustrating to say the least.
 
I'm okay with needing to do ball joints and TRE's at 300k miles to have a nice ride and long tire life. You stick with what works for you, but cracked axle beams, harsh ride, and diagonal tire wear aren't for everyone.

:lmao:

What it takes to crack a beam would have you replacing an entire front end. If it wasn't cheaper to run and lower downtime over the life of the vehicle Ford would have long since gotten rid of it in the vans.

TTB is freaking stupid.

Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it stupid.
 
:lmao:

What it takes to crack a beam would have you replacing an entire front end. If it wasn't cheaper to run and lower downtime over the life of the vehicle Ford would have long since gotten rid of it in the vans.



Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it stupid.

Oh, I understand it. Still think it’s stupid. Ford should’ve just left a solid front axle and never did the TTB.
 
:lmao:

What it takes to crack a beam would have you replacing an entire front end. If it wasn't cheaper to run and lower downtime over the life of the vehicle Ford would have long since gotten rid of it in the vans.



Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it stupid.

I dunno, I personally know 3 people who have cracked D50TTB beams at the leaf spring mount on f250 plow trucks. And looking at how it's an over constrained CAD model I can see why. Only complaint I can see about the f150/RBV coil sprung TTB's is the handling and tire wear and the PITA it is to change the inner axle shaft joint. It has it's advantages but I think there's a reason ford dropped it years ago.

It's fine for 2wd vans where you can have a nice long beam and handling doesn't matter.
 
TTB is freaking stupid.

I bought new lower ball joints and upper control arms for my 2009 Silverado from NAPA. Had grease fittings in everything, and am now getting outside tire wear a year after new alignment. My factory ball joints made it 100k miles. The AC Delco stuff I have been getting from Rock Auto says made in China, and sometimes Mexico.

Basically impossible to find any quality parts US made anymore. Frustrating to say the least.

I called the dealer to get prices and lowers were $95, UCA's are $250, TRE's $75 a piece and everything had to be ordered. I found an online dealer that had it all for about 2/3 my local dealer but it was still saying 10+ day shipping. Had I known the originals had lasted so long I may have been more inclined to go with dealer parts, ordered earlier. This is pretty much the only form of transportation I have for the family and is setting on jack stands with the knuckles on the ground in my garage so I have to put it together with what I've got tonight. MOOG Premium parts are lifetime warranty so I'll find out what happens.
The R-series Moog stuff is only a 3-year warranty so maybe that is the difference that's giving moog the bad name?

DOUBLE FAWK! Just realized I ordered the ball joints for the aluminum LCA's! I hate amazon's interchange software.
 
Just ordered both UCA's and lower ball joints through GM wholesale. $464 with shipping but $250 than local dealer for genuine GM parts. Tried to get the dealer to discount but he told me no luck unless you're a repair shop. Going to send the moog stuff back to amazon and wait to replace the TRE's until I've got one confirmed bad and then do all with GM parts at that time. Not really that much redundant work to do TRE's later as a I thought. Will slap it back together tonight with the bad lower balljoints and new detroit axle brand cheap wheel bearing and try this again next weekend.
FWIW the super cheap wheel bearing was ECCPP brand and it lasted about 10k miles. Would not buy again. I've got the detroit axle brand bearings in my 2500 and they have lasted a 5+years so far so I'll give them a shot at 1/4 price of a GM bearing no harder than they are to change.
 
When you go for the tre's, it would be a good time to change the rack & pinion bushing on the passenger side. I also installed some sleeves on the tre's to help with strength, I think rough country makes them. Would be easy to make yourself if you have access to a lathe.

I have the moog premium lower ball joints and they're ok. I think I got about 70k out of them. The originals lasted til about 115k.
 
Slight thread derailing.

I have a set of stock rancho front struts/coils and rear shocks, and a leveling kit off of my 2019 laying in my garage. They have around 20K on them. Not sure if they would work on your truck, but PM me if interested.
 
Slight thread derailing.

I have a set of stock rancho front struts/coils and rear shocks, and a leveling kit off of my 2019 laying in my garage. They have around 20K on them. Not sure if they would work on your truck, but PM me if interested.

Thanks, I'll probably pass for now. I am a huge fan of stock parts on the DD. I'd also guess that stuff is too new.
 
When you go for the tre's, it would be a good time to change the rack & pinion bushing on the passenger side. I also installed some sleeves on the tre's to help with strength, I think rough country makes them. Would be easy to make yourself if you have access to a lathe.

I have the moog premium lower ball joints and they're ok. I think I got about 70k out of them. The originals lasted til about 115k.

Good tip.

FYI I put everything back together with bad ball joints but with the new detroit axle wheel bearing all noises are gone. I didn't realize how much the $43 amazon bearing was growling all the time, quiet ride now. Will be doing ball joints this weekend.
I also did new rear brakes, shoes and drums. They sure went cheap on the brake lining thickness on these trucks and the parking brake lever retaining bendy clip thing is about as mickey mouse as it could be. BUY A COUPLE NEW CLIPS if you're planning to do brakes on one of these, was a PITA to reuse the old ones and the new shoes don't come with them.
 
Just ordered both UCA's and lower ball joints through GM wholesale. $464 with shipping but $250 than local dealer for genuine GM parts. Tried to get the dealer to discount but he told me no luck unless you're a repair shop. Going to send the moog stuff back to amazon and wait to replace the TRE's until I've got one confirmed bad and then do all with GM parts at that time. Not really that much redundant work to do TRE's later as a I thought. Will slap it back together tonight with the bad lower balljoints and new detroit axle brand cheap wheel bearing and try this again next weekend.
FWIW the super cheap wheel bearing was ECCPP brand and it lasted about 10k miles. Would not buy again. I've got the detroit axle brand bearings in my 2500 and they have lasted a 5+years so far so I'll give them a shot at 1/4 price of a GM bearing no harder than they are to change.

Any FYI for anyone looking to order from gmwholesaledirect.com , do it. I ordered friday afternoon and the parts got here yesterday (tuesday) morning. Faster than amazon prime. Unfortunately it means I need to work on the truck.
 
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