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Weird front end noise 2012 silverado 1500

larboc

larboc

Limestone cowboy
Joined
May 19, 2020
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237
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Da yoop
Got something weird going on I can't figure out. Very occasional noise that shows up, every 5 miles or so at 60mph on a straight road I get this intense growling/grinding for a few seconds. I let a frequency analysis program run on my phone and when it the noise happens I get noise at 100Hz (maybe, that's also firing frequency of the engine but it gets more intense), 200Hz, 300Hz, 400Hz. Wheel speed at 60mph is 10Hz. The intensity varies if I wiggle the steering wheel while it's happening. It will do it in 2wd or 4wd auto, no difference so I don't think it's the 4wd shift collar and from pictures I can find, I don't think there are exactly 20 teeth on those anyway. I replaced the drivers side unit bearing last night, did the passenger side last winter. Did the same noise on the way to work this morning again. I'm going to try to get a video with audio of it but it's really sporadic. 310k miles, rust free, never had any other issues. Doesn't sound like an abs/stabilitrac thing.
Thoughts?
 
Click image for larger version Name: Screenshot_20201202-162313.png Views: 0 Size: 483.7 KB ID: 221275



Screen shot at 60mph. The noise occurred between the -60 seconds and -110 second marks in the bottom plot.
 
larboc said:
Got something weird going on I can't figure out. Very occasional noise that shows up, every 5 miles or so at 60mph on a straight road I get this intense growling/grinding for a few seconds. I let a frequency analysis program run on my phone and when it the noise happens I get noise at 100Hz (maybe, that's also firing frequency of the engine but it gets more intense), 200Hz, 300Hz, 400Hz. Wheel speed at 60mph is 10Hz. The intensity varies if I wiggle the steering wheel while it's happening. It will do it in 2wd or 4wd auto, no difference so I don't think it's the 4wd shift collar and from pictures I can find, I don't think there are exactly 20 teeth on those anyway. I replaced the drivers side unit bearing last night, did the passenger side last winter. Did the same noise on the way to work this morning again. I'm going to try to get a video with audio of it but it's really sporadic. 310k miles, rust free, never had any other issues. Doesn't sound like an abs/stabilitrac thing.
Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Can you kick it to neutral quick enough? Get off the gas? Make any difference? Power steering pump failing? Something in the front dress on the engine? Not many of those trucks have high mileage, so you may have unique problems.

Don't rule out last year's unit bearing either, I know you bought the $43 one:flipoff2:
 
Front diff. low on oil?

Edit: My 2010 did something similar when a wheel bearing was going bad. Being you just replaced one, it could be the other or possibly something in the CV shafts.
 
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It could be but dont pull a cv. Your wheel bearing rely on it to stay assembled. If you want to do that scrounge one used cheap pos up and tear the outer stub off it and install that into the wheel bearing.
 
We have a 2011, 1500 that my wife uses for quick trips into town.

Thing randomly makes the exact same noise that you’re describing. I checked everything and couldn’t find anything. It had pretty aggressive mud tires on it that were annoying, so I recently installed Michellin that are not aggressive at all. The random noise is gone.:confused:
 
Aggie06 said:
Front diff. low on oil?
Click to expand...

Changed it about 2 months ago with the $$$ synthetic stuff the manual called for. It was full when I drained it and oil looked okay. Spinning the front left in 2wd and 4wd auto with it jacked up everything seemed quiet and doing what it was supposed to. I haven't checked it since, can certainly check it tonight but can't see how it would make the same noise with that actuator locked vs. unlocked, everything does very different stuff with that in vs. out.
 
Projectjunkie said:
Can you kick it to neutral quick enough? Get off the gas? Make any difference? Power steering pump failing? Something in the front dress on the engine? Not many of those trucks have high mileage, so you may have unique problems.

Don't rule out last year's unit bearing either, I know you bought the $43 one:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Haven't tried neutral, not much time when it happens. On/off the gas has no difference, I'll try dropping off the gas enough to get the engine rpm to change and make sure, but it seems to be an order of vehicle speed, not engine speed so I don't think it's PS pump/fead. Also clearly affected by swerving steering wheel.

O, and yea. Ebay->"wheel bearing pair 2012 silverado 1500" "sort: by price low to high"
 
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Rockbuggy84 said:
We have a 2011, 1500 that my wife uses for quick trips into town.

Thing randomly makes the exact same noise that you’re describing. I checked everything and couldn’t find anything. It had pretty aggressive mud tires on it that were annoying, so I recently installed Michellin that are not aggressive at all. The random noise is gone.:confused:
Click to expand...

Lol, I put on Michellins about 3 months ago.
 
Aggie06 said:
Front diff. low on oil?

Edit: My 2010 did something similar when a wheel bearing was going bad. Being you just replaced one, it could be the other or possibly something in the CV shafts.
Click to expand...

310k probably smoked the diff outer axle bearings.
 
to check your wheel bearings: put it up on jack stands with everything in neutral. Spin one wheel at a time with your hand on the spring...if you feel a vibration, you found your bad bearing if its that. I found this works for vehicles with coils and leafs. have not tried it with torsion bars, but worth a shot.

Also usually a wheel bearing that is bad will throw a wheel speed sensor code randomly, especially if on the front and turning.
 
I saw a 2000 Diesel Silverado at scrap yard today, perchance it's time to go too-
 
1981K20 said:
X2, exactly how mine started to go

Edit: they are cheap, and a slide hammer kit is your friend ;)
Click to expand...

Interesting, is there an "easy" way to check them to make sure that's the problem or is it just time to do that? Pop the CV shaft, axle shaft, and look for galling on the bearing or just plan on replacing them while there?
 
There is a cir-clip on the axle shaft that can be a real pain in the dick to remove but if it doesnt come out clean in one piece youll have to pull the diff and tear it apart to get the pieces. But the axle shaft should come out with a slam hammer or pry bars.

If there is more than a 1/16" of latteral/vertical movement it should be replaced
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
You changed the tranny fluid didn’t you :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Ignoring that comment....:flipoff2:



Slight update. I put the truck on the lift, letting the suspension droop. Lower ball joints are loose, I'll address this weekend that but I can't see that causing the noise but IDK. I pulled the drivers rear drum and the shoes are down on tread and could be replaced so I've got new drums and shoes coming so I can do both sides. Also have lower ball joints and upper control arms (might as well do it while I'm in there and can't buy just a ball joint?) ordered from GM. Also have all 4 TRE's ordered. I'm going to order the outer axle bearing at the same time so I can do them but I can't tell from the gm parts diagrams how the drivers side bearing goes in/gets replaced or what part number it is. I wiggled the axle shaft stubs and didn't notice any excessive play or fluid leaking out of the seals.

I spun the passenger side tire to listen for any noise from the 1-year old unit bearing and didn't notice any but didn't have time to pull the tire and caliper and really check it, will do tonight.

Interesting note is that since I had it on the lift, it hasn't made the noise again in 50-miles or so but I am hearing a groaning still, very much like a unit-bearing. I better just order another $43 unit bearing in case.
 
ignore it until it gets to being diagnosable
stop throwing parts at it jeez :flipoff2:
did you at least flip the shoes rather than just going out and buying all new shit?
never buy new drums, they're always further out of round than the old ones
total newb said:
It could be but dont pull a cv. Your wheel bearing rely on it to stay assembled. If you want to do that scrounge one used cheap pos up and tear the outer stub off it and install that into the wheel bearing.
Click to expand...
iirc the 2wd of that vintage has bare splines in the unit hub
 
My front ring gear was wearing funny and started making a similar noise. It eventually became constant enough to diagnose. Was on a dodge, but no hub conversion on it.
 
[486 said:
;n224055]ignore it until it gets to being diagnosable
stop throwing parts at it jeez :flipoff2:
did you at least flip the shoes rather than just going out and buying all new shit?
never buy new drums, they're always further out of round than the old ones

iirc the 2wd of that vintage has bare splines in the unit hub
Click to expand...

Yes but the back of the bearing is rolled and captured where the 4wd arent.
 
larboc said:
Ignoring that comment....:flipoff2:



Slight update. I put the truck on the lift, letting the suspension droop. Lower ball joints are loose, I'll address this weekend that but I can't see that causing the noise but IDK. I pulled the drivers rear drum and the shoes are down on tread and could be replaced so I've got new drums and shoes coming so I can do both sides. Also have lower ball joints and upper control arms (might as well do it while I'm in there and can't buy just a ball joint?) ordered from GM. Also have all 4 TRE's ordered. I'm going to order the outer axle bearing at the same time so I can do them but I can't tell from the gm parts diagrams how the drivers side bearing goes in/gets replaced or what part number it is. I wiggled the axle shaft stubs and didn't notice any excessive play or fluid leaking out of the seals.

I spun the passenger side tire to listen for any noise from the 1-year old unit bearing and didn't notice any but didn't have time to pull the tire and caliper and really check it, will do tonight.

Interesting note is that since I had it on the lift, it hasn't made the noise again in 50-miles or so but I am hearing a groaning still, very much like a unit-bearing. I better just order another $43 unit bearing in case.
Click to expand...

Maybe order a few of them so you get a good one.
 
total newb said:
Yes but the back of the bearing is rolled and captured where the 4wd arent.
Click to expand...
I just went through the "I'll make something outta this garbage someday" pile and I can't find a single one that the hub isn't mashed over the inner bearing race

well, there are a few from w-body cars that aren't, but those ones are held together with a two-piece retaining ring that's held in by the stamped ABS tone ring

I think it was only the older ones (that '97 or thereabouts body style (gmt400?)) that were held together by the CV stub, because I 100% remember seeing those, just don't have any.
 
those use the radio for the turn signal noise, and we've run into them putting alternator noise into the speakers

try yanking the radio fuse
 
[486 said:
;n224840]those use the radio for the turn signal noise, and we've run into them putting alternator noise into the speakers

try yanking the radio fuse
Click to expand...

Definitely not the radio. It tingles the feet and fingers.
 
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