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Unit bearing trailer axles?

larboc said:
I didn't know gm had anything 5 on 4.5"?
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it mighta been 114mm (or whatever) but it's all the same
you know all them FWD cars that had the 3.1s and 3.4s and buick 3800s and like every one of them had either a 4t60 or a 4t65
those
the bearings are held together with a snapring so you don't need a stub shaft to hold them together, the snap ring is held on by the sheetmetal ABS ring however, so you do need a bolt through them but it can be just a 1/2-13
and the three mounting holes are standard pitch M12 but they accept a 1/2-13 tap with no reaming necessary
 
YotaAtieToo said:
He did it, says it works great, but was too ****y to post pics.

As long as they don't leak, or the brakes don't go out.

At least 10.25 has slip on drums.

I have been kinda wondering why you don't see 10-12k axles with 18 ply 17.5 singles more. Would make a killer tilt deck.
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Anything with standard 10k+ axles would need to be deckover as the hub/brake are massive and youd end up with a useless >77" deck between the wells.

If your deckover, I dont see the advantage to singles. Maybe to fool DOT, but if you're hauling heavy it wont matter.

What's the load rating of a 05+ bearing?
 
TRINDU said:
Anything with standard 10k+ axles would need to be deckover as the hub/brake are massive and youd end up with a useless >77" deck between the wells.

If your deckover, I dont see the advantage to singles. Maybe to fool DOT, but if you're hauling heavy it wont matter.

What's the load rating of a 05+ bearing?
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I had wondered that about the fender ID.

I did find one trailer like that, but can't find it now and don't know what the fender ID was. Anything that would be even close to heavy enough to justify those kinds of ratings would be wider than 77"

Deck over..... Ya, some people like singles, but for the most part 8 tires > 4 tires.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
On the flip side most retards can switch out a part with 4 bolts.
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When I had a hub grenade and wreck the spindle on my car hauler at 2300 on a Thursday on the side of i40 in Brinkley Arkansas, I would have been way more excited about it if it were just a 4 bolt component change.


It ended up being a 4 ubolt component change the next afternoon, but you know what i mean :flipoff2:
 
[486] said:
d50 TTB spindles and hubs
best of both worlds?
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Hmmm, I'd rather not. I hate working on internal hub, hubs. Also not exactly easy to get over the counter these days. Bearings maybe but hubs or spindles not so much.

Wasn't there some type of rear 1 ton hub that worked on a D60 front spindle? 14b hubs on a gm60 spindle iirc.

I think I'd use sterling stuff. Theyre still dime a dozen and didn't change near as much as D60/70 stuff. Bonus for the sweet o ring seal on the axle flange and slip on drums. If you wanted disc's but still 8x6.5 E250/350 brakes would be pretty easy while staying slip on.

Would having the tube ~2/3rd full be better than just capping the spindles? Or would the heat not really transfer? Maybe some type of little worm drive on the now useless axles to move fluid around :laughing:

Or just pack them with grease?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Hmmm, I'd rather not. I hate working on internal hub, hubs. Also not exactly easy to get over the counter these days. Bearings maybe but hubs or spindles not so much.

Wasn't there some type of rear 1 ton hub that worked on a D60 front spindle? 14b hubs on a gm60 spindle iirc.

I think I'd use sterling stuff. Theyre still dime a dozen and didn't change near as much as D60/70 stuff. Bonus for the sweet o ring seal on the axle flange and slip on drums. If you wanted disc's but still 8x6.5 E250/350 brakes would be pretty easy while staying slip on.

Would having the tube ~2/3rd full be better than just capping the spindles? Or would the heat not really transfer? Maybe some type of little worm drive on the now useless axles to move fluid around :laughing:

Or just pack them with grease?
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d50 because they're d60 bearings and hubs but cheap, and flangey bolt on spindles rather than tubey weld on
grease yes because fuck oil
 
[486] said:
d50 because they're d60 bearings and hubs but cheap, and flangey bolt on spindles rather than tubey weld on
grease yes because fuck oil
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I know why D50, they're the same wheel hubs as the same generation D60.

What I'm saying is that I'd rather have a rear 1 ton hub. There is a way to use I think 14b hubs on bolt on spindles.

Not disagreeing, but why do you say grease over oil? The 8k dexter oil bath hubs seem to have a lot of issues, but sterling rears don't.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not disagreeing, but why do you say grease over oil? The 8k dexter oil bath hubs seem to have a lot of issues, but sterling rears don't.
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wheel seals just seem to do better with grease than oil, and really modern synthetic wheel bearing grease ain't shit like when grease was next to asphalt on the distillation column
 
[486] said:
d50 TTB spindles and hubs
best of both worlds?
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And worst of both worlds on the manufacturing and service side.

You need to waste good steel and machine time on making cups and you can't just send it with an impact gun on the side of the road when you gotta replace one.

I don't think modern-ish Dodge/GM UBs are weak enough compared to a traditional D60 spindle to justify doing that, especially since you'd be running like a 31" tire at best on a trailer.
 
arse_sidewards said:
And worst of both worlds on the manufacturing and service side.

You need to waste good steel and machine time on making cups and you can't just send it with an impact gun on the side of the road when you gotta replace one.

I don't think modern-ish Dodge/GM UBs are weak enough compared to a traditional D60 spindle to justify doing that, especially since you'd be running like a 31" tire at best on a trailer.
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huh really
you strike me as the type to be putting conventional spindles in the place of unit bearings on front axles
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's what I was thinking too. Not that bearing packing and installing is hard, but some people still can't get it. My buddy actually manages a place that works on trailers every day, they also do a lot of fab work. He's constantly bitching about guys that are fab guys will still fuck up simple bearing replacement.

On the flip side most retards can switch out a part with 4 bolts.

There are a lot of other benefits too, easy to carry a spare, no worry of the spindle getting fucked up and preventing new bearings from going on, ect.

If there was a beefy 8 lug version, I'd definitely entertain the idea.
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3/4 ton chevy front hub and a stub axle?
aczlan said:
And a unit bearing (with either studs and a set of lug nuts, or a new set of wheel bolts) along with a new wheel would pretty much guarantee that a "tech" could get a trailer back on the road (as long as the axle itself is not overly bent or disconnected) at least enough to limp to the exit and meet someone with a new trailer.

Looks like they have the parts breakdown available at: Repair Hub -
Does the parts diagram show up for anyone? Curious how they attach the backing plates or caliper brackets

Aaron Z
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oh man it's been a while since I've seen that sight. I totally forgot you could look up uhaul parts.

I can't get the images to work either in chrome or firefox. That shit is ancient and probably works best in internet explorer 6.
 
87manche said:
3/4 ton chevy front hub and a stub axle?

oh man it's been a while since I've seen that sight. I totally forgot you could look up uhaul parts.

I can't get the images to work either in chrome or firefox. That shit is ancient and probably works best in internet explorer 6.
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3/4 ton chevy as in old D44 garbage, 90s ifs or late model ifs?

Why stub axle?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
3/4 ton chevy as in old D44 garbage, 90s ifs or late model ifs?

Why stub axle?
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like a 2wd 3/4 ton mid 2000's joint. They use a 4 bolt unit bearing with a stub axle.

cruising rock auto it looks like a 2006 dodge diesel 2wd truck also used a unit bearing that's self contained.
looks like a better option.
8*6.5, metric studs.

More Information for GMB 7200356

www.rockauto.com


edit: I guess the question is, how do you get working brakes?
 
Who cares about 8x6.5 UBs. Theres tons of 16" 99-04 wheels out there. $100 a set is pretty common for aluminum.
 
87manche said:
like a 2wd 3/4 ton mid 2000's joint. They use a 4 bolt unit bearing with a stub axle.

cruising rock auto it looks like a 2006 dodge diesel 2wd truck also used a unit bearing that's self contained.
looks like a better option.
8*6.5, metric studs.

More Information for GMB 7200356

www.rockauto.com


edit: I guess the question is, how do you get working brakes?
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Newer dodge stuff is what I would do if I was trying to stay 8x6.5. I don't think it would have to be a 2wd unit as the 2wd ram 4500/5500s have the same unit bearings as the 4wd since you can easily see the empty splined section where the stub would be :laughing:

Although if your tow rig is 8x170, I wouldn't be opposed to running 8x170 unit bearings as long as the trailer allowed factory spare tire to fit.
 
For years we've all been talking about making trailers with unit bearings, offer them them in lug patterns that match your tow rig too and I think you'd sell a ton of them!
My trailer is normal bearing 8 on 6.5, it's ran the spare tire from my dodge many times...
I hate the normal bearings, when heated, they always cover your wheels in grease out the stupid little "convenience" grease rubber plug.
 
It seems like the biggest hurdle is brakes. If someone comes up with a affordable way to sell an electirc over hydraulic actuator they will be a wealthy man
 
ChiScouter said:
It seems like the biggest hurdle is brakes. If someone comes up with a affordable way to sell an electirc over hydraulic actuator they will be a wealthy man
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the dexter ones are like $800.

There's a lot of liability insurance built into that I'm sure.
but hydraulic disc brakes on your trailer have got to be the absolute cat's ass. Even better if it just uses all the standard truck components so it's just available everywhere.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well for those of us who still have 8x6.5 tow rigs, 8x170 could kinda suck. Maybe not a huge deal though.
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Never thought it was an issue. I cant swap wheels/tires between any of my trucks or trailers. Whether it be bolt pattern, offset, tire height, whatever.
 
TRINDU said:
Never thought it was an issue. I cant swap wheels/tires between any of my trucks or trailers. Whether it be bolt pattern, offset, tire height, whatever.
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I can, 97 F350, basically came with trailer wheels and tires.

I've also never had to do it......

Any newish dodge or gm that's still 8x6.5 will probably have too much offset.

The biggest downside is not being able to run trailer wheels. So no HD 16" or 17.5"s. But that may not be a big deal for most.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can, 97 F350, basically came with trailer wheels and tires.

I've also never had to do it......

Any newish dodge or gm that's still 8x6.5 will probably have too much offset.

The biggest downside is not being able to run trailer wheels. So no HD 16" or 17.5"s. But that may not be a big deal for most.
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Now that you mention it, I run 94-97 alcoas on my GN with 235/85r16... load range G. But I have two matching spares.

I'd never own a 80-97 Ford though, so it's a moot point with me.
 
TRINDU said:
Never thought it was an issue. I cant swap wheels/tires between any of my trucks or trailers. Whether it be bolt pattern, offset, tire height, whatever.
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hub vs. stud piloted would be another gotcha.
"there should be a law" that all 8-lug patters are 8x6.5" stud piloted with the ford hub diameter.
 
unit bearing makes sense to me for a $350 trash trailer with a mini van axle, and a $25 spare hub with the spare tire bolted to the front of it
No brakes needed


It also makes sense if you run a nationwide fleet and spec the 4 bolts at 90lbs and swap the UB every 400 days rented

Getting into 8lug?

Maybe, maybe for the guy that doesn't really need a 14k trailer, but appreciates having more tire and brakes than he needs

Gmt800 2wd front UB probably 4k an axle, so an 8k trailer, but can fix and maintain cheap, maybe swap with his tow rig, awesome brakes with an electric over hydro setup

Though I'd probably go the sterling route with sleeved axle tubes and oil filled, electro over hydro and have a sweet home brew setup
 
larboc said:
hub vs. stud piloted would be another gotcha.
"there should be a law" that all 8-lug patters are 8x6.5" stud piloted with the ford hub diameter.
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that kinda standardization is one of very few things that you can do properly in a statist shithole like the soviet union
hell I think you can still buy a brand new carbureted car in the former second world
 
Projectjunkie said:
unit bearing makes sense to me for a $350 trash trailer with a mini van axle, and a $25 spare hub with the spare tire bolted to the front of it
No brakes needed


It also makes sense if you run a nationwide fleet and spec the 4 bolts at 90lbs and swap the UB every 400 days rented

Getting into 8lug?

Maybe, maybe for the guy that doesn't really need a 14k trailer, but appreciates having more tire and brakes than he needs

Gmt800 2wd front UB probably 4k an axle, so an 8k trailer, but can fix and maintain cheap, maybe swap with his tow rig, awesome brakes with an electric over hydro setup

Though I'd probably go the sterling route with sleeved axle tubes and oil filled, electro over hydro and have a sweet home brew setup
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I feel like a late model 1 ton+ unit bearing would ha e to hold up better than a stupid 7-8k trailer axle.

Once you actually get close to the wieght ratings regularly, they seem to not be happy. If the tiny 5 lug gm unit bearings hold up to all the shit people put u haul trailers through, how would the 8 lug version not be badass?

I do agree on the last part for the price. I'd bet my 340k rear bearings are original :laughing:
 
I don't see brakes as that big of issue.
Use all the standard trailer electric drum parts, redrill the backing plate for the unit bearing 4 bolt pattern, probably need a spacer for backing plate to drum as truck unit bearings are quite wide. If you have 8 on 170mm you just redrill the drum to match.
A ton of us redrill super duty unit bearings to 8 on 6.5 and have to drill the rotor too, it's easy.
I don't see disc brakes being a advantage on flat bed trailers.
 
welndmn said:
I don't see brakes as that big of issue.
Use all the standard trailer electric drum parts, redrill the backing plate for the unit bearing 4 bolt pattern, probably need a spacer for backing plate to drum as truck unit bearings are quite wide. If you have 8 on 170mm you just redrill the drum to match.
A ton of us redrill super duty unit bearings to 8 on 6.5 and have to drill the rotor too, it's easy.
I don't see disc brakes being a advantage on flat bed trailers.
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I guess you have never taken a trailer axle apart before :laughing:

The hub and drum are 1 piece. :homer:
 
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