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Tremec 4050 jku

Please show me the cost of a doubler, or a 4 sp atlas install, still could happen behind the tremec if I have any t case issues. I would like to see the saved $ over this route. Remember I needed trans work, and a fresh clutch while I will havr it apart. They are in my 5400$ cost.
 
Just depends on how you do everything.

If you can rebuild the trans and fabricate everything for the tcase mounts or whatever. Should be easy to do for about the same price and would be a much more versatile setup.

I find it funny that you touted all your experience, but are afraid of "custom" drive shafts. Aren't stock jk shafts like total garbage?

I also find it funny how jeep guys are still always worried about breaking driveshafts. With 1350, 1410 and even 1480 shafts avaliable in stock trucks, there really is no excuse to not have a basically bulletproof driveshaft for pretty cheap.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Just depends on how you do everything.

If you can rebuild the trans and fabricate everything for the tcase mounts or whatever. Should be easy to do for about the same price and would be a much more versatile setup.

I find it funny that you touted all your experience, but are afraid of "custom" drive shafts. Aren't stock jk shafts like total garbage?

I also find it funny how jeep guys are still always worried about breaking driveshafts. With 1350, 1410 and even 1480 shafts avaliable in stock trucks, there really is no excuse to not have a basically bulletproof driveshaft for pretty cheap.
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How I looked at it. Bad syncros that early usually means someone cant shift... I also do 95% of my own work.

Also agree, 1350s would be on the menu regardless of powertrain. JKs dont need a long slip so a standard 7" is fine. Be the last thing I'd worry about taking me out for the day.

OP, I'm on your side about the tremec being superior. I just wouldn't have spent $6k on the endeavor. The end dont justify the means for me.
 
370s are known for it(bad sycros) jku drivelines are fine if the lift is reasonable and pinon angles are right. I would like locking hubs. Bit that is in the axle part of the build. My driveline failures in the past are from rock damage to tubes, not u joints, so avoiding custom lengths means replacement drivelines, either oem or "aftermarket type" oem length are on the shelf waiting. I bought it used stock, no signs of abuse or off road use. I do not know how it was shifted before I got it. I drive Class a trucks every day locally( up and down through 10 gears)hundreds of times a day for over 1 million miles and counting, I can shift! What is the cost of a reduction box, or atlas install? Plus a rebuilt 370 and clutch no labor? Show me the $$$ savings! I can do a t-18 or sm465 rebuild, but a 370 requires special fixtures (like an nv4500)and I am not doing it myself. My point is by staying with on the shelf stuff I can car camp to the Rubicon, Moab. Florence junction etc. Wheel hard and drive home. I wish I still had a hauler and a dedicated wheeler, or lived where I could get stuff made easily.
 
Sorry I got prickly at being called a web wheeler, the web is where I am a newbie. I thought that because jk s are so popular someone would chime in with hands on experience. I know that there are at least a handfull of 4.0 tj s running around with 4050s as well. I worked in 4x4 parts retail/service writing in PHX for 10 years before jk s were a thing. If I lived there custom drivelins etc. Would be part of the plan, but I would be building a very different jeep!
 
Tube failure on drivelines is pretty rookie as well. Any decent shop will be doing 120 minimum, which holds up well to 90% of people running trails.
 
Tube failure is from rock damage, not torque. I got the 1" body lift installed. I am still waiting on some missing hardware for the swap. I have been skipping 5th gear on the 370 since august, and can do so until I get all my small parts lined up. I made a loupe over a week around W isconsin snd the up of mich this summer , camping light wheeling etc. This winter I am going to do some snow stuff. And hopefully a week of AZ rock trails
 

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3700, not 370. At one point I was thinking o3f doing a doubler and a t-18, or np435 as hypothetical powertrain combos and gusseting the axles and leaving the 4.10s in. 4.10s are stronger than lower gears, and would have saved 1800$. I used to drive a v6 cj every day with a m465, 4.88 gears no OD and 35"s. My bros and ou buds used to have similar combos in all of our stuff that we drove daily. It is a question of your expectations and pain tolerance. T- 18s are much nicer to shift than m465s, my toy 4 runner 22re 5 sp 4.7 t case 4.88 gears was terrible w 35"s, tollerable on 32"s. I expect this jeep to drive fine, and be as smooth and quiet as a stock rubicon, while crawling better than these old combos. The 1" body lift will put the offset shifter in the oem spot and allow me to retain both shifter b
 
Boots, all oem noise ,vibration, harshness mitigation. Measures like the inner boot. Plus shift on the fly (we have snow here).
 

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So is this the best option here? I have a 14 Rubicon 2 door the NSG 370. Planning on putting an Edelbrock supercharger and an Advance Adapter 4 speed in this thing. So will the 6-speed hold up? This thing is on '40s with a super 60 in front and a 14 blot in the rear both have 5.38 gears, the front is stretch is 3.5 " and a 6" stretch in the rear with 14" of wheel travel. Or should I do a 5.7 Hemi swap with an HP70 8-speed tranny? Now I'm in California and to smog, this thing might be tricky with the v8. I have talked with Jeep Speed Shop and he is in the process of trying to pass this through CARB this winter. Now I'm not looking for the fastest thing out there, but just trying not to downshift going down the freeway on every hill. please help, the 3rd petal makes this thing fun to drive, but that could change..
 
No Joke said:
So is this the best option here? I have a 14 Rubicon 2 door the NSG 370. Planning on putting an Edelbrock supercharger and an Advance Adapter 4 speed in this thing. So will the 6-speed hold up? This thing is on '40s with a super 60 in front and a 14 blot in the rear both have 5.38 gears, the front is stretch is 3.5 " and a 6" stretch in the rear with 14" of wheel travel. Or should I do a 5.7 Hemi swap with an HP70 8-speed tranny? Now I'm in California and to smog, this thing might be tricky with the v8. I have talked with Jeep Speed Shop and he is in the process of trying to pass this through CARB this winter. Now I'm not looking for the fastest thing out there, but just trying not to downshift going down the freeway on every hill. please help, the 3rd petal makes this thing fun to drive, but that could change..
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How about starting your own thread with this question so you don't derail this one.
 
Sorry, my intent was not to derail this thread.
I have read that the Tremic is a 4 speed with a granny low 1st gear. It's like shifting from 2nd to 4th in the stock 6 speed. Can the nsg370 handle the extra power of a supercharger, if so then I'm good to go, if not that's my problem.
 
Will Scarlet said:
Then goes on to ask about V8 conversion, so actually no... :flipoff2:
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Ya, because hes trying to be smart and not throw money in the wrong part.

No Joke said:
Sorry, my intent was not to derail this thread.
I have read that the Tremic is a 4 speed with a granny low 1st gear. It's like shifting from 2nd to 4th in the stock 6 speed. Can the nsg370 handle the extra power of a supercharger, if so then I'm good to go, if not that's my problem.
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According to the internet, the 3.6 alone is on the ragged edge of what they can handle, so I'd say no.

BTW, fuck a hemi :flipoff2: 5.3 or 6.2 ls/6l80e ftw
 
Yes, I agree with you an all-aluminum 6.2 with an 8-speed would be nice, but in CA it's not an option due to CARB. Must be a Hemi 5.7 out of a Ram 1500.
 
I have talked with the referee station and downloaded the info on this. You cannot even use a new crate motor since it did not come out of a vehicle. Here I've attached the guidelines. So what tranny do you recommend? I've attached a picture for reference.
 

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No Joke said:
I have talked with the referee station and downloaded the info on this. You cannot even use a new crate motor since it did not come out of a vehicle. Here I've attached the guidelines. So what tranny do you recommend? I've attached a picture for reference.
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OK, now we're derailing :flipoff2:


I don't think your ref knows what he's talking about. My buddy had a 6.2 LS jk that was ref'd in CA.

The rough rules are that it needs to be the same year or newer and out of the same class of vehicle, so not a car or pick up. His was from an escalade.

Also, there is a ca legal crate engine.


I like the 6l80e behind the ls. No idea on your sc/3.6 unless you want to go auto.
 
Thanks for some insite on this,looks like I'll be looking into a complete swap in this thing. The bitch is this thing only has 17,500 original miles on it. Thanks again .
 
402xjeeper said:
I need a dd, ovelander crawler. This is much more of a chalenge than building a more specialized rig.
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402xjeeper said:
The 3.6 is a good motor, wide powerband.
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402xjeeper said:
As to a waste of money, many would say any jeep is, I think "tons" and motor swaps ... are bigger ones!
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402xjeeper said:
I have the 3.6, nearly stock with a tuner and silicone intake tube, oversized radiator. Plenty of power.
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402xjeeper said:
My hilift is 30 years old, bought from Rick Pewe for 48$ back when that was a lot of money to me. It still works. ... spend $ on quality stuff like ... red premium hilift jack ... I think I can build a road drivable super capable jku by judiciously selecting parts from amazon warehouse deals, quality upgrades when things are known to fail. Not falling for if some is good then more is better falacy. After 150 to one more gearing is just to show off.
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402xjeeper said:
The 3.6 tuned has plenty of hp and torque, a wide powerband.
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This is a great thread. :beer:

Sure glad I stumbled onto it ... almost ev'ry one of your posts makes me laugh. :lmao:
 
Yes sir you did, my bad.. Just looking for help here. 3.6 and throw on a supercharger and then what tranny to use?
Or rip out the entire running gear, sell it all with only 17,500 original miles. drop in 5.7 Hemi with an 8-speed and an Advance adapter twin-stick. Lots of work but sounds like a fun winter project. Oh yeah, one other problem I forgot to mention, the body cannot be removed since the frame was cut off right behind the doors. A tube frame was custom made for the rear stretch and the four-link, also the cage goes through the body and is welded to the frame as well. But that's another story. Thank guys I appreciate all the advice.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Also, there is a ca legal crate engine.

LS3 CARB APPROVED 430HP ENGINE – BOOSTPOWER USA
I like the 6l80e behind the ls. No idea on your sc/3.6 unless you want to go auto.
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Quote from the second paragraph of your link:

This enables enthusiasts to install the engine kit in 1995- and-earlier cars and trucks that predate OBD II on-board emissions diagnostics.

So you're technically correct, but you're not going to stuff this in any JK Wrangler in CA.

56c65fe5e70a52708f341328d2c3ccfcbe99dea68ee7ce4b39.jpg
 
Ok try this one tremic 4050 vs an 8 speed automatic. Out of a Ram 1500 with a 3.6 .any thoughts?
Here is my thought ,!like I said earlier. The Tremic is a four speed with a granny gear. The 8speed is proven and well is an 8 speed.
Back on tract right?
 
No Joke said:
Ok try this one tremic 4050 vs an 8 speed automatic. Out of a Ram 1500 with a 3.6 .any thoughts?
Here is my thought ,!like I said earlier. The Tremic is a four speed with a granny gear. The 8speed is proven and well is an 8 speed.
Back on tract right?
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Is that a swap that's been done? I'd take more gears any day.
 
From Wikipedia

ZF 8HP transmission - Wikipedia

8HP75 has a 5.00:1, not bad for an auto trans. Usually this was manual trans territory. Better to throw this in and skip the Atlas?

Technical Data[edit]​

Gear12345678R
Model
Type		Version
First Delivery		Sun 1
Ring 1		Sun 2
Ring 2		Sun 3
Ring 3		Sun 4
Ring 4		Brakes
Clutches		Ratio
Span		Gear
Step
Gear Teeth and RatiosPlanetary Gearset: TeethCountTotalAvg.
8HP 70700 Nm · 516 lb·ft
2009[12][13]		48
96		48
96		69
111		23
85		2
3		7.04351.3216
Ratio4.69573.13042.10391.66671.28451.00000.83920.6667- 3.2968
8HP 70700 Nm · 516 lb·ft
2011[12]		48
96		48
96		69
111		28
104		2
3		7.07141.3224
Ratio4.71433.14292.10641.66671.28471.00000.83920.6667- 3.3168
8HP 45450 Nm · 331 lb·ft
2011[12]		48
96		48
96		60
96		28
104		2
3		7.07141.3224
Ratio4.71433.14292.10641.66671.28541.00000.83870.6667- 3.2952
8HP 75
8HP 50		750 Nm · 553 lb·ft[14]
500 Nm · 368 lb·ft · 2014		48
96		54
96		60
96		24
96		2
3		7.81251.3413
Ratio5.00003.20002.14291.72001.31391.00000.82210.6400- 3.4560
8HP 51500 Nm · 368 lb·ft
2019[14][15]		48
96		54
96		60
96		24
102		2
3		8.20311.3507
Ratio5.25003.36002.17241.72001.31611.00000.82210.6400- 3.7120
8HP TBDTBD
2020[14][15]		48
96		60
96		60
96		24
102		2
3		8.53131.3583
Ratio5.25003.23082.17241.76921.34101.00000.80620.6154- 3.5692
 
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