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Trailer Sway

Ok, so we towed it with a lifted 2014 F250 on 37s and went 70 with no issues on just a drop hitch with no weight distribution or sway control.

Went back and hooked mine up for a comparison. It was immediately apparent that things weren't right. The hitch has a ton of play and we noticed that my wheel wasn't staying in the middle of my wheel well. My u-bolts were finger tight.

I'll fix it and report back.

OH SHIT. Glad you caught that now. Make sure to check the center pin and all leaves for cracks, then install new U-bolts.

You have mentioned the steering box several times which makes me think you know there’s a problem there. Have you tried tightening the sector shaft? I’ve seen this make a world of differnce on a crewcab long box that you would never think would sway. Adjusting it didn’t last long, but at least it confirmed that was the problem and we replaced it.

Also do this, wouldn't hurt to reduce the sector shaft play. I like the old Toyota spec of "adjust until there's just the tiniest amount of play" which prevents over-tightening and killing the box with too much preload.
 
Fuuuuck :eek: That's scary.
i had a sector shaft on my work truck snap in half as i was driving through the gate to my driveway, i can only imagine what would have happened if it snapped doing 50mph through the mountains :eek:
 
i had a sector shaft on my work truck snap in half as i was driving through the gate to my driveway, i can only imagine what would have happened if it snapped doing 50mph through the mountains :eek:
It pretty much never happens at high speed because there's negligible force on the actual steering box part of the steering at those speeds. Pretty much all the pothole force is on the linkage that runs wheel to wheel.

You people need to drive more shit with manual steering.
 
Yup^^^^^^^^

Sector shafts always go in the parking lot.
 
If the leaves are bad who is the go to for replacement leaf packs? SD Truck Springs any good?
 
It pretty much never happens at high speed because there's negligible force on the actual steering box part of the steering at those speeds. Pretty much all the pothole force is on the linkage that runs wheel to wheel.

You people need to drive more shit with manual steering.
my last daily driver had manual steering and my first toyota had manual steering with 38 boggers and welded front diff

you need to drive more shit with manual steering :laughing:
 
If the leaves are bad who is the go to for replacement leaf packs? SD Truck Springs any good?

SD is supposed to be good, and Michigan Truck Spring has been good for me. Or call the local Ford dealership and don't pay shipping.
 
SD is supposed to be good, and Michigan Truck Spring has been good for me. Or call the local Ford dealership and don't pay shipping.
Around here we have two big spring shops (Fulton Spring Service or Hawk Frame and Axle) that I would get quotes from, a coworker has a early 2000s DRW Super Duty and it had broken springs on both sides. It was about $150-200 more per side for Fulton to install the springs versus what he could find for equivalent quality springs and hardware kits.
They both mostly do work on larger medium duty to heavy duty trucks and know their stuff inside out and backwards.

Aaron Z
 
my last daily driver had manual steering and my first toyota had manual steering with 38 boggers and welded front diff

you need to drive more shit with manual steering :laughing:

Just because you managed to build some abomination that takes substantial input force to scrub its way around a gentle highway curve doesn't mean that there isn't way more force at low speed and that the pitman arm and sector shaft aren't doing basically nothing when you're not inputting force.

It's the same as how the pinion and driveshaft are doing basically nothing when you're in neutral even if you happen to be coasting in a turn with a locked rear end.

You had better have a good excuse for being so ignorant since clearly you can't claim lack of experience. :flipoff2:
 
Do these look bent? This is at full droop.

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It's hard to tell if the W-shape is just from the plastic isolators forcing them apart at the ends vs the U bolts cramming them together in the middle or if they're slightly bent.

Regardless, it shouldn't matter for sway. Bent spring will still locate the axle just fine. It's cracked stuff and nonexistant bushings that you need to look for. Both those will let the axle move around under the chassis.
 
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It kinda looks like the airbag mounting clamps are pulling the leaves together, I wouldn't worry about it. As mentioned it's cracks and bushings that are of concern, as well as loose components like U-bolts.
 
Trying to attach a video. Let me know if it works.

Something looks waaay sloppy in the hitch department to me. Like 2" hitch in a 2.5" receiver, or 1-7/8 ball were there should be a 2-5/16, Could we get another video like that showing a view of the hitch?
 
The centering pin in one of the photos looks broke. Those blocks should sit even on the axle. Looks shifted one way.
 
Something looks waaay sloppy in the hitch department to me. Like 2" hitch in a 2.5" receiver, or 1-7/8 ball were there should be a 2-5/16, Could we get another video like that showing a view of the hitch?

this... something is fubar...

EDIT: after watching the video a few more times, I'm going with 2" hitch in 2.5" receiver. That slop is going to kill a bus load of nuns.

And the duratracs appear to have very sloppy sidewalls.
 
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Because undamped springs turn little problems into big problems. Lots of trailers will sway from just bouncing down the road. The friction in the leafs and bushings isn't enough to control the side to side bounce let alone a bump.
 
Agreed, it looks like the mounting plates on the hitch are loose on the frame. Or his frame is cracked.......

watched it again. What's this little black spot that moves around? Hitch?

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This is where I where I would start. Drop axle and inspect center bolt. This does not look right. The springs look fine if there are no cracks. My service trucks springs all look like that. Check front leaf bushing make sure they aren’t blown out.

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needs more leaves
less air bag
less lift block

those leaves look mushy as fuck in the video, and the main leaf looks really unhappy with the airbag mounted as it is
 
lots of movement but I didn't realize you are backing in a turn, I thought this was just backing straight.

If the u bolts are tight and the axle is centered maybe dump all the air out of the bags.
I have had buddies trucks with all ride height from the bag makes it sketchy as fuck because the spring is not supporting any weight and is not providing the support of the axle wrap (wheelbase change).

Secondly probably need to examine the hitch and what is going on there. IT LOOKS from the video shit if going everywhere, sideways and fore aft.
But if that hitch setup was used in your test of the other tow vehicle maybe it is fine.
 
Just because you managed to build some abomination that takes substantial input force to scrub its way around a gentle highway curve doesn't mean that there isn't way more force at low speed and that the pitman arm and sector shaft aren't doing basically nothing when you're not inputting force.

It's the same as how the pinion and driveshaft are doing basically nothing when you're in neutral even if you happen to be coasting in a turn with a locked rear end.

You had better have a good excuse for being so ignorant since clearly you can't claim lack of experience. :flipoff2:
what the fuck are you even talking about? why are you arguing about forces on my pitman arm? i mention my sector shaft snapped and i was glad it didnt happen at speeds so you think you need to school me on the forces a sector shaft sees? you really are a fucking know it all dork, you should try shutting the fuck up sometimes :laughing:

your dumbass acts like i said the pitman arm sees more force at speed then it does at slow speeds :homer: i nor anyone else said it does, and me being thankful it didnt snap at speed is not me implying the force are greater at speed, did i mention you should shut the fuck up? :flipoff2:
 
Does look like play in the hitch somewhere. I would think it would be obvious. I have three receiver balls and two trailers. I thought everything was 2”. About two months ago I discovered one of my balls was 1 7/8”. I can’t believe how many times I towed with it. I didn’t have your kind of problems, but I never toed heavy with that hitch because it wasn’t dropped enough.
 
Does look like play in the hitch somewhere. I would think it would be obvious. I have three receiver balls and two trailers. I thought everything was 2”. About two months ago I discovered one of my balls was 1 7/8”. I can’t believe how many times I towed with it. I didn’t have your kind of problems, but I never toed heavy with that hitch because it wasn’t dropped enough.
1 7/8 shouldn't even exist anymore. Just make everything 2" or 2 5/16 for bumper pull trailers and move on. I've seen guys lose trailers because they stuck them on a 1 7/8 ball with a slightly clapped out coupler.
 
1 7/8 shouldn't even exist anymore. Just make everything 2" or 2 5/16 for bumper pull trailers and move on. I've seen guys lose trailers because they stuck them on a 1 7/8 ball with a slightly clapped out coupler.
I agree, there's no good reason to have 1 7/8" in this day and age, anything I have that came with 1 7/8" has been upgraded to 2"

Aaron Z
 
Something looks waaay sloppy in the hitch department to me. Like 2" hitch in a 2.5" receiver, or 1-7/8 ball were there should be a 2-5/16, Could we get another video like that showing a view of the hitch?

Nope. Both hitch and receiver are 2". The hole for the hitch pin on the receiver is a bit ovaled as is the corresponding hole on the hitch. The ball is 2 5/16".

This is where I where I would start. Drop axle and inspect center bolt. This does not look right. The springs look fine if there are no cracks. My service trucks springs all look like that. Check front leaf bushing make sure they aren’t blown out.

758ACF72-F9A2-4219-A40B-D9C60540FD2D.jpeg

When it stops raining raining I will do that. The shackle bushings are dry cracked but everything looks straight. WIll probably replace anyway.

needs more leaves
less air bag
less lift block

those leaves look mushy as fuck in the video, and the main leaf looks really unhappy with the airbag mounted as it is

That's a stock c-code leaf pack and a stock block. Truck is 100% stock, suspension wise.
lots of movement but I didn't realize you are backing in a turn, I thought this was just backing straight.

If the u bolts are tight and the axle is centered maybe dump all the air out of the bags.
I have had buddies trucks with all ride height from the bag makes it sketchy as fuck because the spring is not supporting any weight and is not providing the support of the axle wrap (wheelbase change).

Secondly probably need to examine the hitch and what is going on there. IT LOOKS from the video shit if going everywhere, sideways and fore aft.
But if that hitch setup was used in your test of the other tow vehicle maybe it is fine.

It was pretty straight. We were rocking it back and forth to see the movement.

I ended up disassembling the weight distribution hitch and it was completely hacked together. I'm guessing that's where the majority of the movement is. I decided to replace the receiver and the whole weight distribution system while I'm in there.
 
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