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Toolbox on the front of a trailer

DRTDEVL said:
I just really like the swivel provision so the leg can never bottom out in a dip, and I don't have to crank it all the way up, either... just halfway, pull the pin, swivel up, and put the pin back in.
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get one that the foot pins to the jack and retracts

unload the jack foot, pull the pin and it spring-retracts up into the jack
when you're lifting the trailer you pull the pin, step on it, let the pin go and it snaps into place as close to the ground as it can
 
[486 said:
;n323354]

get one that the foot pins to the jack and retracts

unload the jack foot, pull the pin and it spring-retracts up into the jack
when you're lifting the trailer you pull the pin, step on it, let the pin go and it snaps into place as close to the ground as it can
Click to expand...

Called a “drop-leg”
 
[486 said:
;n323354]

get one that the foot pins to the jack and retracts

unload the jack foot, pull the pin and it spring-retracts up into the jack
when you're lifting the trailer you pull the pin, step on it, let the pin go and it snaps into place as close to the ground as it can
Click to expand...


that's a gooseneck jack - 2 posts above yours :flipoff2:
 
[486 said:
;n323395]
nah, they make littler ones that fit in the 3 bolt hole in the tongue
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really? I was today years old why I found that out. One of those combined with an 18v impact would be tits.
 
DRTDEVL said:
Once again, its a swivel mount, so that wouldn't work.

I do, however, have the provision for a standard-mount jack at the very front of the tongue, so I *could* feasibly replace the swivel jack with an electric one up there and have all the room in the world. I just really like the swivel provision so the leg can never bottom out in a dip, and I don't have to crank it all the way up, either... just halfway, pull the pin, swivel up, and put the pin back in.

I'm now researching powered jacks, fucker.
Click to expand...

Ha! :flipoff2:

I fucking hate swivel jacks. Ive had too many fail because the pivot starts to wear.
 
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Build your own. Some sheet metal, door seal, lock and a welder.
I put a chain hanging rod on one end, shelf on the other. Hangs a couple inches below the frame.

2013-11-25 16.00.34.jpg
 
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Alright, I finally decided upon a direction. The winch will be mounted on the front of the trailer deck, and I will source a cover for it. The battery will be in a marine box in front of the Harbor Freight Tongue Toolbox. I have installed a powered tongue jack... boy is that thing slow! LOL. It has a removable foot, so I can tuck it up pretty high and my W/D setup will protect it.

Speaking of W/D... This is the only arrangement everything can fit and still allow for my W/D bar anchors to bolt onto the trailer and be in an acceptable range. The box has to be slid all the way back against the front rail on the trailer, and the pivoting jack foot had to be cut off. Talk about a PITA without Oxy/Acetylene or a Plasma! I burned through all my cutoff wheels, and I still couldn't get all the right angles and had to rip the remainder off with brute force. I also cut a hole in the tongue crossmember while working on it, so I had to weld that back up.

Meanwhile, I have pulled a new sheathed marine-grade 12 awg duplex wire and a sheathed 14 awg 4-way wire throughout the trailer and all the connections are just waiting to be made. I just want to finish everything up front first. I also have an LED light bar on its way that I am going to mount on the front rail above the winch. It will be wired into a switch and into the reverse light circuit in the trailer.:smokin:

Pics next week, as I am working tomorrow and this weekend.
 
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Made a little progress while the kids was napping this afternoon. I did not realize that the front stoppage bar on the trailer would interfere with the cables so badly coming out of the solenoid box, so I have to make a mount for the box elsewhere.. it is just sitting on the rail right now, and, honestly, might just get mounted there. I am also super cheap, and instead of LED work lamps, I found a deal on a slightly damaged set of four LED spotlights and a 7-in LED bar. I am using the bar on the trailer, and we'll put two cubes underneath the rear of a pair of my Sprinter vans and tie them into the reverse circuit.


Don't mind the mess, there is a lot of packaging for the products that are being put on the trailer, and the best pace for the packaging was on the trailer.
IMG_20210307_163859743.jpg
IMG_20210307_163936606.jpg
 
Twist the solenoid box down and tuck it into the winch mounting plate channel
 
DRTDEVL said:
I'm actually more curious if it is harmful to mount it vertically. I may just mount it upright on the rail.
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Id probably smear some silicone around all of the cable penetrations just for added weather protection.
 
Stuck said:
Id probably smear some silicone around all of the cable penetrations just for added weather protection.
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I ended up making longer cables for it and put it inside the toolbox yesterday afternoon. Sure, it added several hours to the project, but when this is done, I don't want to have to do anything else to this trailer for years to come.
 
DRTDEVL said:
I ended up making longer cables for it and put it inside the toolbox yesterday afternoon. Sure, it added several hours to the project, but when this is done, I don't want to have to do anything else to this trailer for years to come.
Click to expand...

Probably the best option, that way if something comes over the top of the rail at the front it doesn't bend it all up
Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Probably the best option, that way if something comes over the top of the rail at the front it doesn't bend it all up
Aaron Z
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If something comes over the top rail that close, It's gonna take out the LED light bar. If I run into that situation in the future, I'll move the light bar to the tool box lid. For now, however, this trailer will most commonly haul 140" and 158" wb Sprinter vans, pushing right up against the GVWR after the weight of all these mods.
 
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