Toolbox on the front of a trailer

[DRTDEVL]

Alright, I finally got around to pulling my 2018 PJ Car Hauler into my shop for rehab. It is getting completely rewired, new breakaway, bearings serviced, and probably new brakes/baking plates while I am in there. In addition, I am mounting a Badlands 12k winch in the deck.

I measured the tongue, and with the configuration of the trailer, one of those tongue toolboxes won't work (its only 15" from the front frame rail to the jack, leaving only 8 inches or so to operate the jack handle). I am looking for the best box for the money to mount on the front of the deck. The winch mounting plate is 36.25 inches (If I use it), and the height is 10.5" with a depth of 7.25". I would like a box that is large enough to house the winch, the battery box, and then have enough space to store wheel straps/ratchets/chains out of the weather and away from prying eyes, yet not be so large/deep that it takes away from the ability to move a vehicle around for balance.

While I am in there, I am going to add some white LED lights tat operate both on a switch for work lamps running off the winch battery, but also off the reverse lamp circuit on the trailer harness for assistance backing up at night.

So, who knows of the best box for the money that meets these criteria?

 

[woods]

I just used a small one I got from a yard sale for $40. It was one that would fit in a small truck like a Toyota. Fit just fine.

 

[1981K20]

Alright, I finally got around to pulling my 2018 PJ Car Hauler into my shop for rehab. It is getting completely rewired, new breakaway, bearings serviced, and probably new brakes/baking plates while I am in there. In addition, I am mounting a Badlands 12k winch in the deck.

I measured the tongue, and with the configuration of the trailer, one of those tongue toolboxes won't work (its only 15" from the front frame rail to the jack, leaving only 8 inches or so to operate the jack handle). I am looking for the best box for the money to mount on the front of the deck. The winch mounting plate is 36.25 inches (If I use it), and the height is 10.5" with a depth of 7.25". I would like a box that is large enough to house the winch, the battery box, and then have enough space to store wheel straps/ratchets/chains out of the weather and away from prying eyes, yet not be so large/deep that it takes away from the ability to move a vehicle around for balance.

While I am in there, I am going to add some white LED lights tat operate both on a switch for work lamps running off the winch battery, but also off the reverse lamp circuit on the trailer harness for assistance backing up at night.

So, who knows of the best box for the money that meets these criteria?

It's 2021.....post a fuckin pic

 

[ArTi54N]

I'd get someone to make you one.. at your exact maximum specs

instead of trying to find one

 

[DWT]

3 years old and already doing bearings and whatnot? WTF? You dragging that junk over every chuck hole and curb this side of israel or what?

Are you wanting to mount the winch I side the box or outside?

 

[Stuck]

Youre gonna do all that and you cant figure out how to turn the jack? Cut the welds turn the tube so the handle is in the front and weld it back together. Then put your box on the tongue where it belongs.

Hell on mine I could just take the ha dle assembly out drill a new hole 90° off and put it back together. Yes I know its easier to jack with the handle on the side but how often do you do it twice a day?

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

You can't build a small box for the front of the tongue?

 

[2big bronco]

Move the jack and buy the $100 harbor freight trailer tounge box.

 

[kf4zht]

Build one. Or the Ridgid job boxes from home debt. Just cut the feet off.

 

[DRTDEVL]

3 years old and already doing bearings and whatnot? WTF? You dragging that junk over every chuck hole and curb this side of israel or what?

Are you wanting to mount the winch I side the box or outside?

The unit spent its first year of life as a demo/rental for a trailer sales place. That's why I got it so cheap. The wiring harness let out the magic smoke last May and its been parked ever since waiting for me to have the time and inclination to fix it. Since I already have it in the air, I might as well repack the bearings and replace the brakes/breakaway.

The idea is to mount the winch inside the box and the fairlead on the rear-facing side of the box. This will keep the winch nicer, longer, while keeping the battery, remote, and tie-downs secured with the trailer, rather than in the tow rig or shop. My other set of tie downs stays inside my enclosed trailer.

Youre gonna do all that and you cant figure out how to turn the jack? Cut the welds turn the tube so the handle is in the front and weld it back together. Then put your box on the tongue where it belongs.

Hell on mine I could just take the ha dle assembly out drill a new hole 90° off and put it back together. Yes I know its easier to jack with the handle on the side but how often do you do it twice a day?

The jack is a top-screw style and would require replacement for that idea. It pins into a swivel mount, so it can't be relocated any further forward while retaining that function.

You can't build a small box for the front of the tongue?

I have no desire. I just want a simple, lockable box. Time is not on my side with such things, as I am running a pair of sole proprietorships and raising a toddler. The quick and easy way is best for my lifestyle ATM.

 

[Stuck]

The jack is a top-screw style and would require replacement for that idea. It pins into a swivel mount, so it can't be relocated any further forward while retaining that function.

Doh! I didnt even think of that and its whats on my boat trailer but thats even better. Slap one of those 12v power heads on it and make life easy.

 

[Benny]

Get a good drop leg sidewinder jack.

Here is mine. Harbor freight tool box notched to sit lower in the tongue and enough room behind it to build a separate box for a winch.

 

[DRTDEVL]

Doh! I didnt even think of that and its whats on my boat trailer but thats even better. Slap one of those 12v power heads on it and make life easy.

Once again, its a swivel mount, so that wouldn't work.

I do, however, have the provision for a standard-mount jack at the very front of the tongue, so I *could* feasibly replace the swivel jack with an electric one up there and have all the room in the world. I just really like the swivel provision so the leg can never bottom out in a dip, and I don't have to crank it all the way up, either... just halfway, pull the pin, swivel up, and put the pin back in.

I'm now researching powered jacks, fucker.

 

[Mr Stubs]

I have no desire. I just want a simple, lockable box. Time is not on my side with such things, as I am running a pair of sole proprietorships and raising a toddler. The quick and easy way is best for my lifestyle ATM.

Then do as the Brown Barre suggested and have one built to your specifications?

Or whatever Amazon quickly pulls up?

What ever happened to the trailer tech forum, is it on the fritz?

 

[Ksand]

Remove the jack handle and weld a nut to the stud, use a battery impact to operate the jack so you don't have clearance issues

 

[non-OP]

Tractor Supply has a crap load of box options and 30 day return if you don't trash it before returning it.

 

[Derp]

All I have to add is that I've found a full size pickup toolbox on a trailer is a pain in the dick. Go with something smaller or narrower, even if it means finding other ways to mount your accessories. The trailer I had came with a full size tool box mounted on the tongue, with a receiver for a winch or whatever inside of it and welded to the frame somehow, but not really in a way that could really be undone. I had interference issues towing with a flatbed truck, and a truck with a slide in camper. I guess if you were purpose building a tow rig / trailer setup you could make it work together, but it sucked for me.

 

[evernoob]

No pics sage

 

[MattS]

Here's what I have. It's been on there for 10 years. It's a truck box for a flatbed. It's super sturdy. I have it so the door tips up to the back. I had it how they normally mount on a truck folding out but it wasn't as useful. I have 2 square nail buckets in it for straps and a plastic crate for chains and binders. It's the perfect size IMO. It's barely wider than the neck of the trailer at the front. I would gues it's 3-3.5 feet wide and 18x18 tall-deep. The only issue I have ever had is the handle would let water in mounted this way. So I just welded a little flap door over it. Fixed.

 

[DRTDEVL]

Pics of what I am working with
First up, the oddball tongue jack. I've pretty much decided I am just going to put an electric in the normal place at the tip of the tongue to fix this issue.

The second pic shows the minimal clearance with that jack.

Finally, The winch in question.

 

[Bebop]

Why don't you replace the jack by a model that bolts in the middle of the A-Frame directly ?
That will free a lot of room to put the box.

Like so:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r-a-frame-jack

Or weld your jack pivot point to the outside of the A-Frame and this will let you move it forward some.

 

[rockota]

Why don't you replace the jack by a model that bolts in the middle of the A-Frame directly ?
That will free a lot of room to put the box.

Like so:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r-a-frame-jack

Or weld your jack pivot point to the outside of the A-Frame and this will let you move it forward some.

if his tow rig is anything like mine, that jack location is perfect for catching a tailgate....

I used a TSC box on mine. Mounted on the deck.. Winch inside. Backup lights, loading lights, signals and brake lights... Been good for a few years.

 

[Bebop]

if his tow rig is anything like mine, that jack location is perfect for catching a tailgate...

Same here, but that's an option he may consider since it fits his requirements of easiness of install.

 

[rockota]

Same here, but that's an option he may consider since it fits his requirements of easiness of install.

true...

Mine was in that location. Cut it off (was tacked in) and did this instead.

 

[DRTDEVL]

Why don't you replace the jack by a model that bolts in the middle of the A-Frame directly ?
That will free a lot of room to put the box.

Like so:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r-a-frame-jack

Or weld your jack pivot point to the outside of the A-Frame and this will let you move it forward some.

Answered in the prior post.

I've pretty much decided I am just going to put an electric in the normal place at the tip of the tongue to fix this issue.

if his tow rig is anything like mine, that jack location is perfect for catching a tailgate....

I used a TSC box on mine. Mounted on the deck.. Winch inside. Backup lights, loading lights, signals and brake lights... Been good for a few years.

Actually, no. My tow rig is a 2005 Dodge Sprinter 3500. I'm not sure if the back doors would hit the jack in this case, but if they did, it wouldn't damage them.

 

[DuckTape]

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bulldog-male-weld-on-jack-mount?cm_vc=-10005

 

[billybob_81067]

Cut that jack bushing off that weird as fuck middle mount bullshit, and cut the rest of the mount off as well, then re-weld that jack bushing onto the outside of the frame further up the tongue. Zero cost. Minimal work, and will work much better while still letting you keep the folding jack (which I agree are better than a drop leg when possible).

 

[JunkCJ6]

I have a remote wind jack like what is normally on a gooseneck that is mounted to the front of the trailer and the handle runs along the front bump rail. You could mount the jack like that and then mount the toolbox in front of the jack. Not my trailer, but I have the same one, just a few years older.

 

[ANGELO]

This is what I did

 

[[486]]

that's a loooooong ass bitchin' van

I got no better suggestions than what's been said already, just get you a craigslist S-10/ranger toolbox and make it fit. Bonus points if its plastic because plastic don't rust.