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To spool, or not to spool

Only spool the front if you're running full hydro.

Go selectable, then you get a spool when you need it and open for everything else.
 
Stingray said:
I Daily a 5K 4Runner with a detroit, and it's easy, never know it's there, Front is a High pinion elocker, So far never had an issue locking or unlocking ir from the switch,

I't nice on hardpack tobe able to unlock and not worry about binding or breaking the front end, and makes tight turns doable

IDK if any of that helps.
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Do you have issues with the elocker disengaging when going from forward to reverse?
 
ECGS has D60 spartans for $350 bucks so I think I'm going to pull the trigger on that.

For the rear I am going to see if I can stuff an 11+ ford locker into a 90s 10.25
 
Will12785 said:
ECGS has D60 spartans for $350 bucks so I think I'm going to pull the trigger on that.

For the rear I am going to see if I can stuff an 11+ ford locker into a 90s 10.25
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Not much better bang for your buck than that setup. D60 spartan should be decently strong if you aren't rock bouncing. Worst case, you aren't into it a lot.

I should add, I have gotten bit by lunchbox lockers by the stock carrier having spun bearings, I found another and those were spun too. I would have been ahead with a grizzly on that diff. The other 2 were fine though, just food for thought.
 
My two cents as a someone who drives in snow/Ice 8 months out of the year and have an array of different trucks/lockers. I'm on a 7 mile dirt road that is pretty damn steep and then canyon hwy to get to town.

My basic rule of thumb is to leave lockers OFF in snow/ice until I need them. Open diffs work better IMHO in snow/ice right up until they don't (due to very deep snow).

My trucks with non selectable lockers like Detroit or lunch box tend to not get driven until the snow gets pretty deep.
 
Will12785 said:
Do you have issues with the elocker disengaging when going from forward to reverse?
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No, thats not an issue with them, guys say there are other issues, so far I haven't broken it, My other rig runs Detroits front and rear, they will unlock backing up. until you lose traction then they lock.

the elocker will not lock or unlock if it has pressure against it.

i've had a Detroit in something for probably the last 25 years, the joke has always been a Detroit will break everything it touches if your hard enough on it.

I've always been mindful about being easy with them.
 
Stingray said:
No, thats not an issue with them, guys say there are other issues, so far I haven't broken it, My other rig runs Detroits front and rear, they will unlock backing up. until you lose traction then they lock.

the elocker will not lock or unlock if it has pressure against it.
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The side gears in the 8" rears are a terrible design. The spline section is very thin plus they have a relief where it meets the back of the gear. To make it even worse, the axles don't go all the way through the gear so it puts all the stress on the thin area. Mine had the 3/8" longer shafts to help and I still broke on bald 35s. :laughing:

V6 diffs use the same spider gear, so avoid a lunchbox locker in them also.

Stingray said:
i've had a Detroit in something for probably the last 25 years, the joke has always been a Detroit will break everything it touches if your hard enough on it.

I've always been mindful about being easy with them.
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Detroits also like to blow when you break an axle or similar.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The side gears in the 8" rears are a terrible design. The spline section is very thin plus they have a relief where it meets the back of the gear. To make it even worse, the axles don't go all the way through the gear so it puts all the stress on the thin area. Mine had the 3/8" longer shafts to help and I still broke on bald 35s. :laughing:

V6 diffs use the same spider gear, so avoid a lunchbox locker in them also.



Detroits also like to blow when you break an axle or similar.
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I've had an Elocker in my mixed Daily/ Weekend wheeler, so it doesn't see much aggressive wheeling, probably 5 years total. 37's

My desert 4runner is Detroits front and rear, I've been aggressively hard on that 35's and Toy axles Built. no issues over 10 years.

I had a 79 Bronco 44 up front, 9" rear, Detroits both ends, and never broke a Detroit, But it ate the 44 like a snack, it loved axles.

Swamper 39's.


I'm a traction over momentum guy, so easy on the skinny pedal, and will work a line over rock bouncing on the limiter. I'm pretty conservative


Sorry for the sidetrack, I think a selectable up front seems like the best option, something you lock in or out.

My .02.

And I'm never on snow so:homer::homer: This is all filler.
 
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Stingray said:
I've had an Elocker in my mixed Daily/ Weekend wheeler, so it doesn't see much aggressive wheeling, probably 5 years total. 37's

My desert 4runner is Detroits front and rear, I've been aggressively hard on that 35's and Toy axles Built. no issues over 10 years.

I had a 79 Bronco 44 up front, 9" rear, Detroits both ends, and never broke a Detroit, But it ate the 44 like a snack, it loved axles.

Swamper 39's.


I'm a traction over momentum guy, so easy on the skinny pedal, and will work a line over rock bouncing on the limiter. I'm pretty conservative
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Well yes, breaking weak ass D44 axles, the Detroit can handle :laughing:

My buddy bought a pair of axles years ago for his mild 4runner on 37s. Front Toyota axle, but some had some 6 lug axles made for an EB 9". He figured a little extra beef would be nice.

He broke an axle at the hammers, but it for some reason broke right at the flange. Tire fell off, drug it to camp.

He ended up having to buy a whole new 3rd because the axle took out the Detroit and something else ate the r&p or cracked the factory case. Funny because he had wheeled other Toyota axles much harder for years without issue.

I don't have a problem with Detroits, but they aren't great in that aspect. Supposedly the grizzly is better. As long as you don't get a shit one out of the box.
 
Im not a rock crawler or hard core wheeler but for general off road action I perfer what came stock in my modified M 1031 CUCV.

Dana 70 rear with Detroit locker and a Dana 60 front with limited slip clutch type traction control.
 
I'll jump on the spooled front wagon. I love mine, with hydro assist. It works, no questions asked. I've seen too many selectable lockers failed due to leaks somewhere, usually in the diff. Mine is street legal, but mainly trail driven, with lockouts. Rear is a detroit, it also sucks. But it hasnt stopped working yet. I do hate how it "unloads" on the street when lifting off the gas.
 
Well... this showed up on my door yesterday.
20220302_182025.jpg
 
Back in college we ran welded diffs. If welded CORRECTLY, strong cheap spool. When I swapped the tons in, in college, both got welded. With hydro assist as others have mentioned it works. Even after college as I upgraded here and there the welded diffs stayed. Before our first trip to Moab I put a spartan in the front, really liked that. Then awhile later I got an e locker for the rear, loved that. After rear steering my 10.5 the maneuverability was insane. But figured it would be really nice with a front selectable. So in went a second hand Yukon comp zip. With the control of two diffs and four steer wheels, hell ya.

Spools are cheap, and work. I ran them for years. But now being selectable both ends, wish I would have done it sooner........

Edit: The college budget mode welded diffs where for the most part in detracted trail rigs. So not much road time.
 
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I think it also would depend on where and how you wheel.

If you're at a private park back east and you're constantly on obstacles where you'd be locked anyway, a selectable doesn't make sense.

Muddy trails where you're slipping around and need 4 tires pulling. Spool again is probably fine.

Trails with lots of mild dry granite slabs like the Rubicon, a welded/spool front can suck.

Pnw, where you're constantly doing switch backs between trees, a spool might suck.

As mentioned the comp zip would be sweet in the front. Uses air to unlock. So if all else fails, you're spooled.
 
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