ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
Looks more better every time!!
Switching between nine and ten speeds always requires concentration for me.I also struggled remembering which fucking gear was where initially since I've been driving my FJ40 around. Once I got my brain rewired it was great!
Semi reverse is up left, FJ reverse is down left, Hilux reverse is down right.Switching between nine and ten speeds always requires concentration for me.
That and the K2500 and Yukon have reverse on the opposite side from the big trucks.
Awesome looking setup!Not much to say, but the first trip configured as the original plan went awesome!
Yesterday I had cruise control set at 78mph and it was at 1800rpm, with the tach showing a green zone of 1000-1500rpm, and redline being 2200rpm. It'll go over 80 no sweat, but there starts to be some weird harmonics over 78 that some people have said are most likely due to bad shocks which I haven't replaced yet. Gears 1-5 are good for 5mph, then each gear after that is good for 10mph or so, and then 10th is good from about 50mph and up. And it got 9.5mpg on that 900mi trip I did a few weeks ago doing 75 (speed limit) everywhere we went. Since there's no appreciable load on it it'll maintain that up any grade too, so it'll go as fast as you want.Badass, what cruising speed do you go on the highway? I know a lot of it has to do with gearing for the application it lived in before you got it.
This is starting to make me wanna sell the 450 :pYesterday I had cruise control set at 78mph and it was at 1800rpm, with the tach showing a green zone of 1000-1500rpm, and redline being 2200rpm. It'll go over 80 no sweat, but there starts to be some weird harmonics over 78 that some people have said are most likely due to bad shocks which I haven't replaced yet. Gears 1-5 are good for 5mph, then each gear after that is good for 10mph or so, and then 10th is good from about 50mph and up. And it got 9.5mpg on that 900mi trip I did a few weeks ago doing 75 (speed limit) everywhere we went. Since there's no appreciable load on it it'll maintain that up any grade too, so it'll go as fast as you want.
I've been contemplating that too. RPS1030 sent me this truck and the extension off the back is pretty cool and got me thinking.I think you should extend the dovetail 2-4’ and make it less of an angle. That should still leave you with enough room to mount the gooseneck at the back of your truck frame and be able to turn. And as long as you build an appropriate strength bumper pull hitch at the back of the dove tail I doubt that truck will care about the hitch placement vs tongue weight whenever you hook trailers to it.
Good looking updates! Angled backup lights are where it’s at on all vehicles! I’ve had great luck over the years with some cheapo Nilight 4” cube lights. Added them to every truck and even trailers too. So I can light up the night while backing up.
Don’t blame you there one bit.I want some like that to mount at deck level at the front to light up underneath the buggy. But first will expend my pile of old Chinese light bars.
Always thought that was such a cool truck.Just found this thread, looking good. I think you went about as far by now as I did after I picked up my class8. I haven't touched it for almost 4 years now. I changed some rotten steel fuel lines and fixed an ECU issue when I got it, and changed some ugly cooling system and charge pipe lines. It probably needs most of that over again after sitting another 4 years. I hope it doesn't mind, will be another year or three before it sees frequent use. I set up pallet racking in the back as a poor man's stacker, and can fit my Bro Lite and my 4800 in it at the same time. No real quarters in it beyond the sleeper. It needs a sink in the sleeper and a kitchenette and shower in the box to actually be nice, but it is pretty awesome. It gave me 2 years of race hauling, replacing a 24' bumper pull enclosed, and then it played moving truck to move house for me in 2020...
keep the updates flowing! someday I'll have some again. I made a thread for it here, but only a placeholder. There's a little bit more on the old site IIRC.
1994 N14 Cummins and a 10 speed Eaton, dash says 643k but there's a note in service records of a discrepancy. 7.8 MPG in the 8,000 miles I put on it.
Not to finish on TOO sour of a note but it did strand me once, ECU failure (yes, same ECU that was repaired to drive it home when I bought it). Ran roadside assistance through my State Farm policy and it was towed home about 140 miles for $250. Somebody lost their ass on that and it thankfully wasn't me. A breakdown far away from home is the thing that leaves me nervous. A normal truck and trailer is 1,000x easier to self-recover. This thing is more of a fix on site or... ??
That's a cool truck! Was the roadside assistance for it intentional or did someone screw up and it wasn't supposed to be covered?Just found this thread, looking good. I think you went about as far by now as I did after I picked up my class8. I haven't touched it for almost 4 years now. I changed some rotten steel fuel lines and fixed an ECU issue when I got it, and changed some ugly cooling system and charge pipe lines. It probably needs most of that over again after sitting another 4 years. I hope it doesn't mind, will be another year or three before it sees frequent use. I set up pallet racking in the back as a poor man's stacker, and can fit my Bro Lite and my 4800 in it at the same time. No real quarters in it beyond the sleeper. It needs a sink in the sleeper and a kitchenette and shower in the box to actually be nice, but it is pretty awesome. It gave me 2 years of race hauling, replacing a 24' bumper pull enclosed, and then it played moving truck to move house for me in 2020...
keep the updates flowing! someday I'll have some again. I made a thread for it here, but only a placeholder. There's a little bit more on the old site IIRC.
1994 N14 Cummins and a 10 speed Eaton, dash says 643k but there's a note in service records of a discrepancy. 7.8 MPG in the 8,000 miles I put on it.
Not to finish on TOO sour of a note but it did strand me once, ECU failure (yes, same ECU that was repaired to drive it home when I bought it). Ran roadside assistance through my State Farm policy and it was towed home about 140 miles for $250. Somebody lost their ass on that and it thankfully wasn't me. A breakdown far away from home is the thing that leaves me nervous. A normal truck and trailer is 1,000x easier to self-recover. This thing is more of a fix on site or... ??
Yes sirLooking good.
Just looking at the winch plate, is it welded to the frame?
Be very careful welding to heavy truck frames....especially in the top and bottom web's. Same with drilling holes. The sides are ok, but top/bottom is a no/no (or so I am told)Yes sir
I was figuring that's what you were going to say After research I had concluded it's a 50/50 split of people saying it's totally fine or that you'll die the next time out by welding to a truck frame. So I said fuck it let's do itBe very careful welding to heavy truck frames....especially in the top and bottom web's. Same with drilling holes. The sides are ok, but top/bottom is a no/no (or so I am told)
Meh, 50% is better odds than 100%. Just keep an eye on it. If the frame twists much, that’s where it’s probably going to crack.I was figuring that's what you were going to say After research I had concluded it's a 50/50 split of people saying it's totally fine or that you'll die the next time out by welding to a truck frame. So I said fuck it let's do it
§ 393.201 Frames.
(a) The frame or chassis of each commercial motor vehicle shall not be cracked, loose, sagging or broken.
(b) Bolts or brackets securing the cab or the body of the vehicle to the frame must not be loose, broken, or missing.
(c) The frame rail flanges between the axles shall not be bent, cut or notched, except as specified by the manufacturer.
(d) Parts and accessories shall not be welded to the frame or chassis of a commercial motor vehicle except in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. Any welded repair of the frame must also be in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.
(e) No holes shall be drilled in the top or bottom rail flanges, except as specified by the manufacturer.