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"Tiny" - A Semi Project

I also struggled remembering which fucking gear was where initially since I've been driving my FJ40 around. Once I got my brain rewired it was great!
Switching between nine and ten speeds always requires concentration for me.

That and the K2500 and Yukon have reverse on the opposite side from the big trucks.
 
Switching between nine and ten speeds always requires concentration for me.

That and the K2500 and Yukon have reverse on the opposite side from the big trucks.
Semi reverse is up left, FJ reverse is down left, Hilux reverse is down right. :shaking:
 
Not much to say, but the first trip configured as the original plan went awesome!

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Badass, what cruising speed do you go on the highway? I know a lot of it has to do with gearing for the application it lived in before you got it.
 
Badass, what cruising speed do you go on the highway? I know a lot of it has to do with gearing for the application it lived in before you got it.
Yesterday I had cruise control set at 78mph and it was at 1800rpm, with the tach showing a green zone of 1000-1500rpm, and redline being 2200rpm. It'll go over 80 no sweat, but there starts to be some weird harmonics over 78 that some people have said are most likely due to bad shocks which I haven't replaced yet. Gears 1-5 are good for 5mph, then each gear after that is good for 10mph or so, and then 10th is good from about 50mph and up. And it got 9.5mpg on that 900mi trip I did a few weeks ago doing 75 (speed limit) everywhere we went. Since there's no appreciable load on it it'll maintain that up any grade too, so it'll go as fast as you want.
 
Yesterday I had cruise control set at 78mph and it was at 1800rpm, with the tach showing a green zone of 1000-1500rpm, and redline being 2200rpm. It'll go over 80 no sweat, but there starts to be some weird harmonics over 78 that some people have said are most likely due to bad shocks which I haven't replaced yet. Gears 1-5 are good for 5mph, then each gear after that is good for 10mph or so, and then 10th is good from about 50mph and up. And it got 9.5mpg on that 900mi trip I did a few weeks ago doing 75 (speed limit) everywhere we went. Since there's no appreciable load on it it'll maintain that up any grade too, so it'll go as fast as you want.
This is starting to make me wanna sell the 450 :p
 
I think you should extend the dovetail 2-4’ and make it less of an angle. That should still leave you with enough room to mount the gooseneck at the back of your truck frame and be able to turn. And as long as you build an appropriate strength bumper pull hitch at the back of the dove tail I doubt that truck will care about the hitch placement vs tongue weight whenever you hook trailers to it.
 
I think you should extend the dovetail 2-4’ and make it less of an angle. That should still leave you with enough room to mount the gooseneck at the back of your truck frame and be able to turn. And as long as you build an appropriate strength bumper pull hitch at the back of the dove tail I doubt that truck will care about the hitch placement vs tongue weight whenever you hook trailers to it.
I've been contemplating that too. RPS1030 sent me this truck and the extension off the back is pretty cool and got me thinking.

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Whenever I get around to building my deck. I am going to make the beaver tail/ramp removable. I think Skipped Link did it that way.
 
Couple improvements to the truck in the past couple weeks, though no real pictures.

First was my neighbor fixed the AC, he had all the shit to check the system and vacuum it so that's a major improvement! Went to Sand Hollow this weekend and turned it on, took it a minute to get going but I was even turning it down pretty quickly so that's great! I might see if someone can tint the windows, I can only imagine how hot this thing will get in the summer.

We also went ahead and cut the exhaust off, there was lots of talk of getting sexy with it which turned into, fuck it just cut the muffler off, rotate the exhaust 180deg so it dumps in front of the passenger tool box. With how ancient the muffler is, doubtful it was doing much. Inside the cab I didn't notice any increase in noise, except maybe with the exhaust brake on so I'm thinking it'll stay that way. I made a bracket to hold the exhaust down turn/tip which you can see below.

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I also added a winch mount! Though still need to bolt the winch on and wire it in.

Annnnd that's about it. I got new gas struts for the side cargo doors? Old stuff is so cool, like a gas strut seems so dumb but it's so cheap and makes such a noticeable difference. Just one of those little improvements that goes a long way.


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With the exhaust stack moved I can now pull the buggy all the way forward on the deck so it's not precariously close to the dovetail. I also have a 2.5" hitch receiver tube sitting here to build into a receiver below the dovetail. That's about it for updates though. I rotate through which vehicle I'm modifying, probably get back to the semi soon so I can put the winch on and hitch receiver since I'm going to a race in a couple weeks, and need to be prepared for towing a trailer or winching the buggy on if it breaks. Otherwise, it runs like a champ and despite not driving it very often I think I was noticeably improved shifting which is a win too!
 
Some big improvements the last couple days!

First, a $20 radio from Amazon!

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And it has Bluetooth, and sounds way better than the 20+ year old stock unit.

I also got the winch mounted and wired, and made a bracket for the winch controller so it's out of the way and the plug is easy to reach.

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I've had this old HF winch laying around for years and this is the perfect application for it. I need to buy a new steel line since I always throw those out so don't have any laying around. This is a case where I think steel is better since it'll sit outside most of its life and rub on a lot of stuff when it does get used. With that said I need to figure out some kind of fairlead solution, that might be as simple as just a single flat roller at deck level to keep it low profile and not trip on it as much. Or maybe just add a rub pad and say fuck it since how often will this get used? I don't know, but at least it's functional if the buggy breaks down now!

And the last big upgrade was finally getting a hitch receiver!

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2.5" receiver tube off Amazon, and welded to the bottom of the rear frame cross member worked out great! The back side has a U shaped plate, front side is essentially the same U plate but extended upward to fill in the hole where the pintel hitch used to be. Then two triangle gussets, and a plate with some holes for chains to go to. Poor little welder i just maxed out and went to town. I don't think this bad boy is going anywhere!

And while I was there, I had to remove the reverse light and there wasn't a nice place to add it back in, so I swapped it out for two shitty 6" LED lights I had bought 10 years ago, and I threw a weld on the side of the brake lights and wired them in. Wasn't planning to do that, but should be a nice little upgrade and I can angle them out to the sides. And if they're super ultra shitty I'll just swap them out now that there's wiring and plugs in place.


That wraps up this round of upgrades! These felt like a big step since now Tiny is converted (back) into a tow rig, and able to load vehicles on it if they're broken down.
 
Good looking updates! Angled backup lights are where it’s at on all vehicles! I’ve had great luck over the years with some cheapo Nilight 4” cube lights. Added them to every truck and even trailers too. So I can light up the night while backing up.
 
Good looking updates! Angled backup lights are where it’s at on all vehicles! I’ve had great luck over the years with some cheapo Nilight 4” cube lights. Added them to every truck and even trailers too. So I can light up the night while backing up.

I want some like that to mount at deck level at the front to light up underneath the buggy. But first will expend my pile of old Chinese light bars.
 
Just found this thread, looking good. I think you went about as far by now as I did after I picked up my class8. I haven't touched it for almost 4 years now. I changed some rotten steel fuel lines and fixed an ECU issue when I got it, and changed some ugly cooling system and charge pipe lines. It probably needs most of that over again after sitting another 4 years. I hope it doesn't mind, will be another year or three before it sees frequent use. I set up pallet racking in the back as a poor man's stacker, and can fit my Bro Lite and my 4800 in it at the same time. No real quarters in it beyond the sleeper. It needs a sink in the sleeper and a kitchenette and shower in the box to actually be nice, but it is pretty awesome. It gave me 2 years of race hauling, replacing a 24' bumper pull enclosed, and then it played moving truck to move house for me in 2020...

keep the updates flowing! someday I'll have some again. I made a thread for it here, but only a placeholder. There's a little bit more on the old site IIRC.
1994 N14 Cummins and a 10 speed Eaton, dash says 643k but there's a note in service records of a discrepancy. 7.8 MPG in the 8,000 miles I put on it.

Not to finish on TOO sour of a note but it did strand me once, ECU failure (yes, same ECU that was repaired to drive it home when I bought it). Ran roadside assistance through my State Farm policy and it was towed home about 140 miles for $250. Somebody lost their ass on that and it thankfully wasn't me. A breakdown far away from home is the thing that leaves me nervous. A normal truck and trailer is 1,000x easier to self-recover. This thing is more of a fix on site or... ??
 

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I want some like that to mount at deck level at the front to light up underneath the buggy. But first will expend my pile of old Chinese light bars.
Don’t blame you there one bit.

Just found this thread, looking good. I think you went about as far by now as I did after I picked up my class8. I haven't touched it for almost 4 years now. I changed some rotten steel fuel lines and fixed an ECU issue when I got it, and changed some ugly cooling system and charge pipe lines. It probably needs most of that over again after sitting another 4 years. I hope it doesn't mind, will be another year or three before it sees frequent use. I set up pallet racking in the back as a poor man's stacker, and can fit my Bro Lite and my 4800 in it at the same time. No real quarters in it beyond the sleeper. It needs a sink in the sleeper and a kitchenette and shower in the box to actually be nice, but it is pretty awesome. It gave me 2 years of race hauling, replacing a 24' bumper pull enclosed, and then it played moving truck to move house for me in 2020...

keep the updates flowing! someday I'll have some again. I made a thread for it here, but only a placeholder. There's a little bit more on the old site IIRC.
1994 N14 Cummins and a 10 speed Eaton, dash says 643k but there's a note in service records of a discrepancy. 7.8 MPG in the 8,000 miles I put on it.

Not to finish on TOO sour of a note but it did strand me once, ECU failure (yes, same ECU that was repaired to drive it home when I bought it). Ran roadside assistance through my State Farm policy and it was towed home about 140 miles for $250. Somebody lost their ass on that and it thankfully wasn't me. A breakdown far away from home is the thing that leaves me nervous. A normal truck and trailer is 1,000x easier to self-recover. This thing is more of a fix on site or... ??
Always thought that was such a cool truck.
 
Just found this thread, looking good. I think you went about as far by now as I did after I picked up my class8. I haven't touched it for almost 4 years now. I changed some rotten steel fuel lines and fixed an ECU issue when I got it, and changed some ugly cooling system and charge pipe lines. It probably needs most of that over again after sitting another 4 years. I hope it doesn't mind, will be another year or three before it sees frequent use. I set up pallet racking in the back as a poor man's stacker, and can fit my Bro Lite and my 4800 in it at the same time. No real quarters in it beyond the sleeper. It needs a sink in the sleeper and a kitchenette and shower in the box to actually be nice, but it is pretty awesome. It gave me 2 years of race hauling, replacing a 24' bumper pull enclosed, and then it played moving truck to move house for me in 2020...

keep the updates flowing! someday I'll have some again. I made a thread for it here, but only a placeholder. There's a little bit more on the old site IIRC.
1994 N14 Cummins and a 10 speed Eaton, dash says 643k but there's a note in service records of a discrepancy. 7.8 MPG in the 8,000 miles I put on it.

Not to finish on TOO sour of a note but it did strand me once, ECU failure (yes, same ECU that was repaired to drive it home when I bought it). Ran roadside assistance through my State Farm policy and it was towed home about 140 miles for $250. Somebody lost their ass on that and it thankfully wasn't me. A breakdown far away from home is the thing that leaves me nervous. A normal truck and trailer is 1,000x easier to self-recover. This thing is more of a fix on site or... ??
That's a cool truck! Was the roadside assistance for it intentional or did someone screw up and it wasn't supposed to be covered?
 
It was a too-good-to-be-true rate, and this was an out-of-pocket deal - I don't have roadside in my policy on anything. $250 should have been roughly the hook cost, plus probably $3-5/mile is what I was guestimating at at the time. I never did call the outfit back and see what their cash price would have been but that's what I figured.

I have done a LOT of stupid shit and 3 mildly crazy fly & drives, but the cost of rescue is the one down side. Unlike driving an AMC Eagle or XJ on 35s or a notoriously unreliable Audi across the country, I can't just Uber to a uhaul and throw the big box truck on a trailer behind a rental van, or call a friend to rescue around the region. It just means more attention to PM and a more intentional stock of spare parts. Your Volvo and 12.1 are probably better known to most shops than my 30 year old N14 so that's a big up side.
 
Be very careful welding to heavy truck frames....especially in the top and bottom web's. Same with drilling holes. The sides are ok, but top/bottom is a no/no (or so I am told)
I was figuring that's what you were going to say :grinpimp: After research I had concluded it's a 50/50 split of people saying it's totally fine or that you'll die the next time out by welding to a truck frame. So I said fuck it let's do it :flipoff2:
 
I was figuring that's what you were going to say :grinpimp: After research I had concluded it's a 50/50 split of people saying it's totally fine or that you'll die the next time out by welding to a truck frame. So I said fuck it let's do it :flipoff2:
Meh, 50% is better odds than 100%. Just keep an eye on it. If the frame twists much, that’s where it’s probably going to crack.
 
It would be a no go if you were using this as a tractor, but your not loading much on this so it's probably ok. It is in one of the worst spots for twist though.

I used to do framerails, and if I wasn't replacing from rust jacking it's was usually cracked at a flange hole.
 
Drilled or welded frames can be an issue with inspections: Federal Register :: Request Access

§ 393.201 Frames.​


(a) The frame or chassis of each commercial motor vehicle shall not be cracked, loose, sagging or broken.

(b) Bolts or brackets securing the cab or the body of the vehicle to the frame must not be loose, broken, or missing.

(c) The frame rail flanges between the axles shall not be bent, cut or notched, except as specified by the manufacturer.

(d) Parts and accessories shall not be welded to the frame or chassis of a commercial motor vehicle except in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. Any welded repair of the frame must also be in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

(e) No holes shall be drilled in the top or bottom rail flanges, except as specified by the manufacturer.
 
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