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Byro
Lurkin’
If you go to tons you’ll still have to have drive shafts made when you go that route.
I run a 1310 front shaft on my Jeep, (V8, tons, 40s) and haven’t destroyed it yet.
I run a 1310 front shaft on my Jeep, (V8, tons, 40s) and haven’t destroyed it yet.
Lilyota
RIP 7/22/2023
Skip the 1310 stuff and go with the 1350 stuff.
It's gonna be a bit expensive at first but you won't have to worry about it later...
Also, do flanges at both ends front and rear diffs and transfer case
You'll thank me later.
It's gonna be a bit expensive at first but you won't have to worry about it later...
Also, do flanges at both ends front and rear diffs and transfer case
You'll thank me later.
thedirtman
Well-known member
1350's are just more money. I agree with running flanges on both ends as well. If you do Tons later you just have to have them re-tubed and shortened. Way cheaper than buying new drive shafts. Only other drawback is that you are likely moving your weak link in your drivetrain to the R&P or shafts. Check your drive line angles too as 4 doors can generally get away with not doing a double Cardon shaft that will save you money and time on the maintenance. Make sure to get solid u-joints.
Lilyota
RIP 7/22/2023
Non serviceable is what the parts stores call them...Don't get them from O'Rielys
He's right about the weak link part and not.
I have broken axle joints that are bigger and stronger than the shaft joints...
It's all in the method.
Eric
RIP 10/6/2022
Maybe not so much of an issue with the Unlimited but 1350's don't support as much angle as 1310 or 1410.
1350 is limited to about 20 degrees whereas 1310 can go up to 30 degrees and certain 1410 max out at 35 degrees give-or-take.
1350 is limited to about 20 degrees whereas 1310 can go up to 30 degrees and certain 1410 max out at 35 degrees give-or-take.