CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Made a switch plate to add two switches in front of the shifter.
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The wife's Maverick Trail
- Thread starter CarterKraft
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CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
When the wife rides shotgun she has politely complained that her knees can hit the bottom of the subwoofer box, specifically the part that crosses over to the passenger side and box's in the glove box.
I figured I could just put a chamfer on the front of the box to add clearance but after getting it out I remembered that part of the box is only cosmetic, just makes a valance to look clean.
I trimmed it back got rid of it. All the mdf looks good, it was glassed with some light cloth and polyester resin. I radiused the new edge and sanded everything back to put in a new glass.
Hopefully I got enough mek in it, I forgot to use the scale and I am terrible at counting drops...
Batdog eat your heart out
I figured I could just put a chamfer on the front of the box to add clearance but after getting it out I remembered that part of the box is only cosmetic, just makes a valance to look clean.
I trimmed it back got rid of it. All the mdf looks good, it was glassed with some light cloth and polyester resin. I radiused the new edge and sanded everything back to put in a new glass.
Hopefully I got enough mek in it, I forgot to use the scale and I am terrible at counting drops...
Batdog eat your heart out
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Adjusted the valves .003" and .005", like a for real **** hair... They weren't out but where at the max of the range.
Got the sun box all glassed and bed linered ready to go back in.
But befotrvi put it back in I addressed a long standing problem. The dash has a recess that has the 12v outlet and USB charger. It also has a drain that keeps it from holding water. That drain is right above the sub box and amp... We haven't killed the amp yet but it's something I'd rather resolve now when it's all blown apart.
I mulled it all over several ways to fix this, a long sheet metal tongue to divert the water, gluing on a abs fitting and ultimately I decided to break a piece of .100" aluminum to fit the plastic dash. Then I welded a piece of 3/4" aluminum tubing to that and blended it in with a roto file. I attached that to the dash with some stainless screws and sealed it with RTV.
Now I can run a piece of 3/4" clear vinyl hose down to the floor.
No finished pix yet.
View attachment 839529
Got the sun box all glassed and bed linered ready to go back in.
But befotrvi put it back in I addressed a long standing problem. The dash has a recess that has the 12v outlet and USB charger. It also has a drain that keeps it from holding water. That drain is right above the sub box and amp... We haven't killed the amp yet but it's something I'd rather resolve now when it's all blown apart.
I mulled it all over several ways to fix this, a long sheet metal tongue to divert the water, gluing on a abs fitting and ultimately I decided to break a piece of .100" aluminum to fit the plastic dash. Then I welded a piece of 3/4" aluminum tubing to that and blended it in with a roto file. I attached that to the dash with some stainless screws and sealed it with RTV.
Now I can run a piece of 3/4" clear vinyl hose down to the floor.
No finished pix yet.
View attachment 839529
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Last year in Taylor Park we came too a water crossing that shouldn't have been a big deal.
I rode my bike across and then hitched a ride on the back of the SXS to get my sons bike.
As we got to the bank the belt was slipping like crazy and it would barely climb out of the creek. We were both confused, never had that problem. Later another crossing we had the same problem so for the rest of the trip any water sucked, as in it might not get out...
I pulled it apart and didn't see anything wrong, the cover was in contact with the new HDPE skid cause I left some spacers out to try and increase ground clearance. I put the spacers back in but found over Thanksgiving it was still a problem.
This time I'm gonna pull it all the way down and even pressure test this clutch assembly of I have too.
When I popped off the primary I got my answer...
I rode my bike across and then hitched a ride on the back of the SXS to get my sons bike.
As we got to the bank the belt was slipping like crazy and it would barely climb out of the creek. We were both confused, never had that problem. Later another crossing we had the same problem so for the rest of the trip any water sucked, as in it might not get out...
I pulled it apart and didn't see anything wrong, the cover was in contact with the new HDPE skid cause I left some spacers out to try and increase ground clearance. I put the spacers back in but found over Thanksgiving it was still a problem.
This time I'm gonna pull it all the way down and even pressure test this clutch assembly of I have too.
When I popped off the primary I got my answer...
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Got the whips finished with the 6:1 heat shrink on the connector back shell.
Then got the front and rear rock lights installed. The rears sort of got YOLO'ed on to the bottom of the bed support rails. I hope it's not directly inline with the tire axis but if it is I can make a Z plate or something to relocate it, I'm tired of fuckin with led lights...
The fronts are a piece of 1" sch 40 split and a tab welded to them to create a pad that's consistent on both sides secured to these strut tubes with hose clamps.
This configuration allowed me to get them installed and I can adjust them as needed later if they aren't to my liking. Early tests show it's ok as is.
Then got the front and rear rock lights installed. The rears sort of got YOLO'ed on to the bottom of the bed support rails. I hope it's not directly inline with the tire axis but if it is I can make a Z plate or something to relocate it, I'm tired of fuckin with led lights...
The fronts are a piece of 1" sch 40 split and a tab welded to them to create a pad that's consistent on both sides secured to these strut tubes with hose clamps.
This configuration allowed me to get them installed and I can adjust them as needed later if they aren't to my liking. Early tests show it's ok as is.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Found a deal on the Super ATV forward a-arms to allow for 30" tires and bought them but...
I forgot about them using heims joints in the lower ball joint.
I'm not a fan so do I YOLO it? Convert to ball joint or uniball?
It wouldn't be hard to just carry a spare heim and tools but I don't really want a "soft" part on the front end.
If I modify anything I'll have to pretty perfect because there won't be any camber adjustment, not that there is now anyway.
I forgot about them using heims joints in the lower ball joint.
I'm not a fan so do I YOLO it? Convert to ball joint or uniball?
It wouldn't be hard to just carry a spare heim and tools but I don't really want a "soft" part on the front end.
If I modify anything I'll have to pretty perfect because there won't be any camber adjustment, not that there is now anyway.
Blacksheep10
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 91
- Messages
- 495
ORB has a heim body that goes in a heim arm that holds an OEM ball joint on Polaris stuff. Might be worth a look to see if they have one for mav stuff, then get 3, throw one in tool box, and stull run BJ's. I run Uniball upper/Rod end lower on one of my trail rigs and they are loud, need lubed a lot and wear out
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Looks like it's a standard 3/4 heim.
The ball joint stud is .704 so nut sure if that's metric or what.
The arms are pretty beefy so I'm not worried too much about those at least, even if I have to modify they'll be weldable.
The ball joint stud is .704 so nut sure if that's metric or what.
The arms are pretty beefy so I'm not worried too much about those at least, even if I have to modify they'll be weldable.
Blacksheep10
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 91
- Messages
- 495
18mm same as 1k iirc
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
That might check out.
Probably need to find a spare stud and maybe just replace the heims now with FK and keep these as spares.
Also need to check on the heim/ball joint hybrids now that I have the measurements.
Blacksheep10
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 91
- Messages
- 495
I likely have a spare stud for a 10k, I know they are 18 mm for sure. It would just be a length thing
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
If you don't mind just measuring it for me so I can cross check what is available that would be awesome.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I checked the rear ground clearance at the center and it was 9.5" on the second preload notch. Cranked it to the max preload and it raised it a even inch which seemed like exactly how far the adjuster moved.
I adjusted the front up to Max but I didn't do a good job of measuring so I'll recheck it before committing.
With 30s and a extra inch of ground clearance that might be 3" total inches which would really be pretty awesome, have it near 12.5" at the belly.
Need to get some 14" wheels, there's a few sets on marketplace for $200 off defenders which I need to confirm backspacing is good.
I adjusted the front up to Max but I didn't do a good job of measuring so I'll recheck it before committing.
With 30s and a extra inch of ground clearance that might be 3" total inches which would really be pretty awesome, have it near 12.5" at the belly.
Need to get some 14" wheels, there's a few sets on marketplace for $200 off defenders which I need to confirm backspacing is good.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
The ORB heim ball joint adapters looked just like the Keller adapters.
Both of them are 7/8 and these arms have 3/4 heims so if have to rework that adapter.
If I go to the trouble of reworking the arms I'd probably just put on ball joint flanges and run HD ball joints, all this is probably worry because I've never had a ball joint problem, we don't wheel very hard...
Both of them are 7/8 and these arms have 3/4 heims so if have to rework that adapter.
If I go to the trouble of reworking the arms I'd probably just put on ball joint flanges and run HD ball joints, all this is probably worry because I've never had a ball joint problem, we don't wheel very hard...
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Doing some googing and it seems like this ball joint might work.
Really really cheap and easy to change.
Might make a awesome option.
I may buy one to check.
Really really cheap and easy to change.
Might make a awesome option.
I may buy one to check.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
This might be the stud I have, I need to check.
MBS-006#AC
MBS-006#AC
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Here's the results of the preload adjuster games, not sure why I'm surprised it actually raised it but I am surprised.
A inch was available front and rear.
I think with a OEM spec of 10" ground clearance it is sagged decently considering it's on 1" bigger tires than stock.
Still looking for 14" wheels and or 30" tires.
EPI has a high altitude oversized tire clutch kit that i will get.
A inch was available front and rear.
I think with a OEM spec of 10" ground clearance it is sagged decently considering it's on 1" bigger tires than stock.
Still looking for 14" wheels and or 30" tires.
EPI has a high altitude oversized tire clutch kit that i will get.