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The TRACTOR thread

JeffsJeep04 said:
the other advantage of the standard L series is they are borderline light enough to tow with an equally undersized truck…

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Is that taco crying or does it do OKAY?
 
Owned a 2305 sun compact and replaced it with 1025r for drive over

Also owned two 8n’s with attachments.

Skidsteer gets used much more than the bucket in the 1025 now. Except cleaning the chicken coop.

Mini-ex gets used more than the 1015 does as well. It’s regulated to mowing and light duty FEL work…. Or narrow FEL work.

I did everything I needed with the 2305 for years. Tiller, box blade, auger, rake….
 
WoodburyZuk said:
Is that taco crying or does it do OKAY?
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It shocked me how well it towed. Manual with 4.30 gears helps. I’ve had a bunch of tacos and they get sketchy north of 5k. I threw air bags in this one and it’s amazing how stable and controlled it is. It’s slow, but it handled and stopped the load with no drama. 11.5mpg sucked, but for the infrequency I tow, this truck is hard to beat.
 
For a chipper I want one of these or maybe one of the upgrades. Had a job to justify it and lead time was a no-go. I probably won’t worry about it until another job and have the same problem.
 

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rockota said:
Want to buy one of these, but can’t seem to justify…
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It’s a tough one. Doesn’t get used much most of the year if at all, But I got a whole forest of whispering Aspen I want to severally thin out and it’s not great for fire wood and most of what I want to take down is 2-3” diameter. I will be leaving the 8”+ stuff.

Biggest reason I got it so when I do clearing in the summer I don’t have giant burn piles everywhere and I can get it chipped up and cleaned up all in one go and not have to deal with it later.
 
I would say between being used to load and unload things with the forks on, snow plowing and getting firewood are the main year round uses of my tractor.

Moving dirt, and making ditches would be next on the list of what I do with it.

Third is brush cutting the yard
 
2big bronco said:
A steal of an awsome tractor that will outlast anything new near stanford wa for anyone looking.
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my 870 was a super solid machine but the 70 series without a shuttle or hydrostatic transmission option is less than ideal for loader work and mowing anything but an open field. The 4200 that replaced it isn’t nearly as robust, but hydrostatic trans is a game changer for sure.
 
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I'm in the "bought an old shitbox" mechanical diesel because it's what fit the budget group. I'm on my third one. Right now I'm running a '69 JD 1020 w/ loader.

I wouldn't buy one without a loader. I agree that pallet forks are hugely useful. They spend more time on it than the bucket. Other than that, box blade, especially if you're going to have gravel. I will eventually add a third function and get a grapple.

Seems you're pretty set on financing a new one. If that changes, buy a common brand for parts availability and send it. Keep in mind you can build or buy a SSQA adapter for many loaders. I bought, and it was worth every penny.
 
Bought a POS 1993 kioti lk3054 some years back. Aesthetically it looks like hammered dog shit. The PO sucks and welded with rabbit turds. But I finally have it to where it's mechanically solid. Parts are out there, but half the time they are on a slow boat from Korea. I've learned a lot through research that some parts cross reference to 80s Japanese stuff. Like the alternator from a 1981 Ford Courier fits it and it's only $30, where kioti wants $200.

It's mainly used for moving snow and fixing the driveway.

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MONSTERMUDDER said:
Since your interested in a chipper...

We've got a 3pt one and for lols we hooked it up to the L2501 and it was fine with 3" stuff, getting up near / past 4 inches is about the most we were able to do with it before it ran out of power and it wasn't too happy about it. I forget the brand but I believe the PTO powers a hydraulic pump which runs everything. Something more direct gear driven wouldn't waste as much HP and should chip larger diameter limbs.

Not an issue for us, we just run it with an older larger tractor.
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Most of the 6 to 8 in diameter chippers that have hydraulic feed rollers have direct drive for the chipping portion and hydraulic drive for the feed rollers.
urjb said:
For a chipper I want one of these or maybe one of the upgrades. Had a job to justify it and lead time was a no-go. I probably won’t worry about it until another job and have the same problem.
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If you get the woodmax or another one that looks like the one you had the picture of, the only complaint I've heard about it is that the hydraulic flow control valve that they use to adjust the feed roller speed is oversized for that application, the pump puts out 4 gallons per minute and it is a 10-15 gallon per minute valve.
As a result, once you adjust the speed past about 1/3, it's at full speed.
Some people have replaced the valve with a more perfectly sized one from Surplus Center and been very happy with it.

As for tractors in general, we (my in-laws and us) have a BX2660, a B7500, a L3830 and a MX6000 (just picked up 2 weeks ago).
The BX lives with a mower or a snowblower on it.
The B mostly gets used for cleaning out the barn and tilling the garden
The L and the MX are used to cut, rake and bale hay as well as moving firewood.

Previously my in-laws my parents or us have owned a couple of older Allis tractors (WD45 was one), a Ford 8N, a Massey Industrial 35, a Case 480F, a Kubota L3650, a David Brown 880 and a Deere 880.

My thoughts:
Snowblower: Keep it to a front mount and 5HP/foot (that number is a good rough idea on PTO powered attachment size)

Loader: The MX is the first tractor we have owned with Skid Steer Quick Attach, I wouldn't have another loader tractor without one

Chipper: You will be happier with powered infeed, Hydraulic infeed is more tolerant of varying log sizes, a bigger chipper will reduce how much trimming of branches you will need to do to let them fit in.

4wd: A 4wd tractor will work circles around a much larger 2wd tractor unless you're doing something like mowing a field where traction is not a limiting factor.
Dad's 4WD Kubota L3650 was 2/3 the size and 1/2 the weight of the 2WD Massey Industrial 35 it replaced and the Kubota could outwork it any day of the week as the Massey was severely traction limited (even with loaded tires, wheel weights and a 55 gallon drum full of rocks on the 3 point).

If you want to do straight loader work, a skid steer or a mini wheel loader (look at PowerTrac if you want to go down a rabbit hole) will do circles around a tractor.

Aaron Z
 
Pablo said:
HP doesn't hold you back unless you have PTO that needs more horse-ma-ponies. The lighter weight of the L series will be what holds you back, for the most part. If you have to choose between the two, side with more weight unless you are mowing in the wet.

Stuff not worth it:
  1. 3 point post hole diggers: No down-pressure. Don't dig worth a shiz. Better off with a hand held for less money or rent one. Ones that are hydraulic and mound to the FEL are awesome, but have high flow
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This is going to be soil dependent. we have hard pack at the house, but no rocks and it works fine for me. Screw trying to do it with a handheld. I’d say the bigger issue is space, as in do you have space to back the tractor in to get to where you need a hole. For me, 3-pt auger was my first purchase.
 
Some other random thoughts:
  1. John Deere does not have skidsteer Quick Attach. This is pretty standard on all other tractor FEL's. John has a proprietary FEL attachment system that requires the use of John Deere specific FEL equipment. Which sucks, because you are not as likely to find compatible attachments on Craigslist/Marketplace or at the local Farmer CoOp store. You can change them out to SSQA though, but your Deere dealer may think you are some kind of heretic and put you on their shitlist. Deere is pretty much a cult, like Apple is for phones and computers.
  2. If you don't have enough PTO HP, consider getting an extra tractor. Older 50-100 HP used 2wd tractors without a FEL sell for cheap, usually $3-7k. They are everywhere, damn near indestructible, and parts are usually available cheap. They are not as useful as a 4wd tractor with a FEL, so no one wants them-- but this doesn't matter for PTO operation. Even with a 3-point quick attach, it is easier to just have the other attachment already mounted to the other tractor and not have to mess with PTO driveshafts and hydraulics. It prevents procrastination and gives you a backup option if the primary tractor is down. If I get a big ass wood chipper, I will go this way. Probably have more in the wood chipper than the tractor.
  3. Buy something supported by dealers in your area. Even if you want to work on it yourself, it is good to know there is someone around that will show up at your place and fix it. This impacts the resale value if you ever plan to sell it locally.
  4. Test drive various tractor models before purchase. Familiarize yourself with the differences in controls between the contenders. For example: you may hate the hydrostatic transmission treadle peddle on the Kubotas, but love the twin pedals on the Deere. You won't really know this unless you try them out before you buy. It may seem petty, but if you have hand/feet stress injuries or big feet that don't even fit on the control peddles of brand X tractor-- it matters. It also matters with what you are used to, muscle memory wins.
 
TiTRD said:
Like the alternator from a 1981 Ford Courier fits it and it's only $30, where kioti wants $200.
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For the record, theres only so many housing and orientation for electric accessories. Especially for equipment.

its Korea, it's all reversed engineered with maybe a mod here or there to call it their own.
 
TRINDU said:
For the record, theres only so many housing and orientation for electric accessories. Especially for equipment.

its Korea, it's all reversed engineered with maybe a mod here or there to call it their own.
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If it's not standard enough to be cheap it's getting a 12SI.
 
LS MT357 owner here.
Super happy with the machine.
Implements I bought.
FEL (came standard)
Grapple /third function
Hydro adjust rear 7' blade
Box blade
Forks
Hay spike
Rototiller
 
Definitely get the skid steer style quick attach. I change from bucket to forks, to grapple numerous times a day/week.

You will want tire chains for snow work. I don’t have any currently but have a large set I need to cut down to fit. I may of slid the tractor on to its side in ditch last winter.

Good thing my rock crawling experience kicked in and I was able to right it and get out using the FEL the angle adjust plow and the rear box blade to twist and crawl my way out.

Nothing hurt but my pride.
 
Sceep said:
Love my old Case. Use it weekly. Wish I could find a grill for it. Picked it up for IIRC $1900 5 years ago. Has a pile of receipts for $4kish of in chassis rebuild about 300 hours ago from the local dealer. Clutch is starting to slip pretty bad. Probably have to split it and fix that this winter.

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If I remember I will look and see if there are any case tractors of that era in the parts lineup at the local tractor parts yard. What model is it? A 430?
 
My idea of the best tractor for somebody who needs it for their property is a Diesel 4x4 with a frontend loader, the size depends on your needs and wallet.
Forks are very useful, York rake, grader box, brush hog, finish mower are my most common tools for my tractor that I use. I made a leveler for grading which works really good.
This is a log grapple that I welded some jaws on so I can move rocks.
I’ll get a picture of the leveler and post it later
 

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2BB, (and others) I am going to buy something 4wd 24hp or bigger, belly mower, loader, either a backhoe or add one later when my old 26hp garden tractor dies. I have a yard with some steep spots and a few properties to maintain/repair/mow.

I am very tempted by the kubotas at .9% financing but they are $30k. Could I buy something for $15k or less cash and be as happy with it long term? I try to buy quality and keep it forever.
 
DMG said:
2BB, (and others) I am going to buy something 4wd 24hp or bigger, belly mower, loader, either a backhoe or add one later when my old 26hp garden tractor dies. I have a yard with some steep spots and a few properties to maintain/repair/mow.

I am very tempted by the kubotas at .9% financing but they are $30k. Could I buy something for $15k or less cash and be as happy with it long term? I try to buy quality and keep it forever.
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If you shop kubota should give you 0%
With that said find the lowest hour mid 2000s john deere 790 you can. 15k will get you something with sub 500hrs and garage kept. It may take 6 months+ for one to pop up but they will. You may have to run a rear pto mower though.
 
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2big bronco said:
If you shop kubota should give you 0%
With that said find the lowest hour mid 2000s john deere 790 you can. 15k will get you something with sub 500hrs and garage kept. It may take 6 months+ for one to pop up but they will. You may have to run a rear pto mower though.
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Thank you
 
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