The Gambler XJ

[Moarqueque]

Missed this thread first time around. Saw it referenced in the MQQ thread in chit chat. Nice job, DMG! Some day I need to get an OBD1 XJ.

But that's not why I'm posting. Would like to give a hint about doing a 'Rustoleum' paint job. I've done it on several vehicles including the Deuce and work trailers.

F Rustoleum and any solvent-based paint. Regular old exterior house paint is what you want:

- Made to go over imperfect surfaces - no one wet sands a house. I never even sand anything, and just wipe down with a dry rag. It can go right over slightly oily or greasy areas.​

​

- Water-based so easy clean-up.​

​

- Way less expensive.​

​

- HD, Lowe's, or Ace will color-match whatever you want. I often get a match to a rattle can color I like so the rattle can can be used for little details or quick touch-ups later on.​

​

- Just pour some paint onto a flat surface of the vehicle, slop it around with a brush, then hit it with a foam roller to eliminate the brush marks and smooth things out before it flashes.​

​

- For vertical surfaces, slobber paint on with the brush and then roller it out.​

​

- Hit any rust or bare metal with a little spritz of rusty metal primer.​

​

- Keep it out of the rain for a day or two or you might get spots, although they usually disappear on their own.​

​

- It flashes pretty quickly but can take a few days to fully cure. Once it cures it is almost as tough as CARC.​

​

- Fuck up? Just to over the area again. Never an issue blending.​

​

- I use flat, satin, or semi-gloss. Glossy is not as forgiving. If you need more gloss, after it is fully cured rub it down with a 50:50 mix of kerosene and water (shake well). Wipe on, wipe off with two rags. The wetter you apply it the shinier it will be. It lasts a couple of weeks but continues to bead water well after. You can also use Penetrol (which is simply mineral spirits and linseed oil).​

​

- Penetrol can also be used to protect the patina/original paint/decals/whatever. Also protects against rust.​

​

- Semi-gloss or satin black is the tits for equipment or trailer frames.​

​

- I usually stick with Latex but you can get the same products in an oil base if you prefer.​

​

- It's perfectly feasible to do a small area or a panel at a time since there is no issue matching colors or textures.​

​

​

​

​

Actually, funny you say this, it's how we painted our Scout II. We bought exterior house primer and main colour paint from Lowes. We used rollers and it came out with a bedliner finish, almost. Now that it's done, people asked us a lot if we used monstaliner or rhinoliner or the like. I simply used 120 and 80 grit sand paper to smooth out the rough edges around the body, then I just said fuck it and painted it. After it dried and cured, it has held up no problem, including the other day when it hailed. I can't complain beyond my own imperfections. Attached are before and after at DMGs shop, actually, The black is before we painted it when it was parked at DMGs shop while I was away in the Marines. The white follow up is the gray primer we used. The purple follow up is how it sits now with the gray primer through the hood and the tailgate. Personally, we love it and I think it came out great. I think it was like 150 bucks all said and done for paint, rollers, brushes, foam and brush, and roller brush trays. Came out good enough for us. I recommend it. We've put like 3000 miles on this paintjob already. Drove it to Scout NATS 2023 and back, 1200 miles round trip with stops and whatever freshly painted, no issues, and it sat at the top of a transport hauler 2700 miles when I had it shipped on an exposed trailer froim DMGs shop to Camp Pendleton. No issues. Long term we'll see, but, honestly, seems to have worked out really great.

 

[DMG]

Missed this thread first time around. Saw it referenced in the MQQ thread in chit chat. Nice job, DMG! Some day I need to get an OBD1 XJ.

But that's not why I'm posting. Would like to give a hint about doing a 'Rustoleum' paint job. I've done it on several vehicles including the Deuce and work trailers.

F Rustoleum and any solvent-based paint. Regular old exterior house paint is what you want:

- Made to go over imperfect surfaces - no one wet sands a house. I never even sand anything, and just wipe down with a dry rag. It can go right over slightly oily or greasy areas.​

​

- Water-based so easy clean-up.​

​

- Way less expensive.​

​

- HD, Lowe's, or Ace will color-match whatever you want. I often get a match to a rattle can color I like so the rattle can can be used for little details or quick touch-ups later on.​

​

- Just pour some paint onto a flat surface of the vehicle, slop it around with a brush, then hit it with a foam roller to eliminate the brush marks and smooth things out before it flashes.​

​

- For vertical surfaces, slobber paint on with the brush and then roller it out.​

​

- Hit any rust or bare metal with a little spritz of rusty metal primer.​

​

- Keep it out of the rain for a day or two or you might get spots, although they usually disappear on their own.​

​

- It flashes pretty quickly but can take a few days to fully cure. Once it cures it is almost as tough as CARC.​

​

- Fuck up? Just to over the area again. Never an issue blending.​

​

- I use flat, satin, or semi-gloss. Glossy is not as forgiving. If you need more gloss, after it is fully cured rub it down with a 50:50 mix of kerosene and water (shake well). Wipe on, wipe off with two rags. The wetter you apply it the shinier it will be. It lasts a couple of weeks but continues to bead water well after. You can also use Penetrol (which is simply mineral spirits and linseed oil).​

​

- Penetrol can also be used to protect the patina/original paint/decals/whatever. Also protects against rust.​

​

- Semi-gloss or satin black is the tits for equipment or trailer frames.​

​

- I usually stick with Latex but you can get the same products in an oil base if you prefer.​

​

- It's perfectly feasible to do a small area or a panel at a time since there is no issue matching colors or textures.​

​

​

​

​

Next time we are doing it I will reference this thread.

 

[Moarqueque]

Next time we are doing it I will reference this thread.

It worked on the Scout. It's kind of a shitheep but it worked.

 

[plym49.2]

Actually, funny you say this, it's how we painted our Scout II. We bought exterior house primer and main colour paint from Lowes. We used rollers and it came out with a bedliner finish, almost. Now that it's done, people asked us a lot if we used monstaliner or rhinoliner or the like. I simply used 120 and 80 grit sand paper to smooth out the rough edges around the body, then I just said fuck it and painted it. After it dried and cured, it has held up no problem, including the other day when it hailed. I can't complain beyond my own imperfections. Attached are before and after at DMGs shop, actually, The black is before we painted it when it was parked at DMGs shop while I was away in the Marines. The white follow up is the gray primer we used. The purple follow up is how it sits now with the gray primer through the hood and the tailgate. Personally, we love it and I think it came out great. I think it was like 150 bucks all said and done for paint, rollers, brushes, foam and brush, and roller brush trays. Came out good enough for us. I recommend it. We've put like 3000 miles on this paintjob already. Drove it to Scout NATS 2023 and back, 1200 miles round trip with stops and whatever freshly painted, no issues, and it sat at the top of a transport hauler 2700 miles when I had it shipped on an exposed trailer froim DMGs shop to Camp Pendleton. No issues. Long term we'll see, but, honestly, seems to have worked out really great.

Perfect! Great job and it does look good. You'd think that exterior home latex would not stick to metal, but it does.

BTW I am too cheap to buy roller pans. I pour it out onto the hood, roof, or deck and use that as my tray.

 

[plym49.2]

Update on the kero/water mix and Penetrol:

- Kerosene/water 50:50 mix was the OG method used by the NYPD for the NYC limos used in ticker-tape parades. Including the mayor's car. No way they were going to Simoniz that shit. Use it on any paint job. It cleans and shines in one fell swoop. Protects chrome.​

​

- Penetrol is used by the antique machinery boys (hit-or-miss engines, etc.) to protect original paint, decals, rust, whatever. Same deal: wipe on, wipe off.​

 

[Moarqueque]

Perfect! Great job and it does look good. You'd think that exterior home latex would not stick to metal, but it does.

BTW I am too cheap to buy roller pans. I pour it out onto the hood, roof, or deck and use that as my tray.

It was tricky at first, but we did it layer by layer. Took us two days to paint? It came out great

 

[Moarqueque]

Perfect! Great job and it does look good. You'd think that exterior home latex would not stick to metal, but it does.

BTW I am too cheap to buy roller pans. I pour it out onto the hood, roof, or deck and use that as my tray.

Everything you touch must look like shit 🤣

 

[plym49.2]

Everything you touch must look like shit 🤣

Did I touch it and it turned to shit, or did I touch it because it was shit?

 

[DMG]

The view from our campsite at this years PA Gambler

 

[DMG]

During our litter/tire/etc cleanup of the huge offroading area we found a F150. The organizer called the state police, assuming it was stolen. The state police came out, ran the vin and called the owner. He said it got stuck and broke so he abandoned and did not want it back. Someone (him?) shot it up and jumped on the roof, etc. The state cop told us to do whatever we wanted with it so we hauled it back to camp and launched it off a cliff. It was pretty fun so we dragged it back up and did it a few more times.