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Suspension design concept, will this work?

YotaAtieToo said:
If that's the case, I'd say just do some trailing arms to gain a little more travel from your shocks.

Unless you just want to prove your concept, then go for it.
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I took some measurements for trailing arms, without cutting into the cab I could only fit a 2.5x8 coilover and get a 1.35:1 MR (about 10.8" of travel).

I like trying new and interesting things, I think I'll give my concept a go. If anything I learned from this thread is maybe reduce the MR and make it slightly progressive. I'm going to Accutune tomorrow so I'll talk it all over with them and see what they suggest.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
It doesn't take long for this crowd to talk you into 4" Live Valves, fully independent, portals, supercharged LS, 42" stickies, and race spec chassis just so you can go overlanding.
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on the contrary … 1 tons and all this work for a camping rig seems overkill. long travel front, deavers, and a bypass outside the frame would be a the perfect and less complicated solution for a camping rig.


if he wants to build something cool, then go for it. i suspect he is going to struggle to balance small bump compliance and bottom out resistance with 1.8 motion ratio

Team_Jake where is the gas tank going?
 
mobil1syn said:
on the contrary … 1 tons and all this work for a camping rig seems overkill. long travel front, deavers, and a bypass outside the frame would be a the perfect and less complicated solution for a camping rig.


if he wants to build something cool, then go for it. i suspect he is going to struggle to balance small bump compliance and bottom out resistance with 1.8 motion ratio

Team_Jake where is the gas tank going?
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I have the same 4runner and just an ome lift makes it ride pretty nice for a camping/dd ride. :laughing:

Team_Jake said:
I took some measurements for trailing arms, without cutting into the cab I could only fit a 2.5x8 coilover and get a 1.35:1 MR (about 10.8" of travel).

I like trying new and interesting things, I think I'll give my concept a go. If anything I learned from this thread is maybe reduce the MR and make it slightly progressive. I'm going to Accutune tomorrow so I'll talk it all over with them and see what they suggest.
Click to expand...

For one, 11" of use able tuned travel is not bad for a "camping rig"

I'd bet you can get a little more out of it with some body mods that aren't too intrusive.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Obviously; you've never lived with a TTB.:shaking::homer:

Your point may be technically correct; a straight axle is stupid simple compared to a TTB.
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I've had multiple TTB vehicles and I've got like three TTBs worth of parts in my garage. I know how they work. The biggest extra complexity is in the steering. The slip joint shaft isn't great but it's not a big hassle either.
 
mobil1syn said:
if he wants to build something cool, then go for it. i suspect he is going to struggle to balance small bump compliance and bottom out resistance with 1.8 motion ratio
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I agree 1.8 might be too much.
If the same coilover gets moved closer to the connecting link the wheel travel will reduce. Dropping down to 12” or 11” usable travel and squeezing everything out of the coilover travel would help.
What ratio is acceptable 1.4-1.6?
I did my best to get down to 1.6 on trailing links with 2.5”x10” coilovers
How does the fuel weight come into play?
 
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Wouldn't be that much extra work to design the arm to have multiple points to pin the link and the coil-over.
 
Can you increase the arm length to decrease the motion ratio?

Also, this seems hard to package unless you have a narrow frame and wide axles.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Also, this seems hard to package unless you have a narrow frame and wide axles.
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That's what I've been thinking this whole time. How do you keep the tires from crashing into all that stuff when the axle articulates?

Team_Jake said:
mobil1syn IowaOffRoad

Articulation:

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Put some tires and wheels on it and do it again. I bet you run into a shitload of interference unless you run 1" backspacing on the wheels.
 
This is fully flexed.

BellCrankCapture7.PNG

BellCrankCapture8.PNG


It may rub just slightly on the arm or the bolt connecting the top link. The frame's are pretty narrow on these vehicles (41-3/16" from outside to outside edges). '04 Sterling 10.5 axle (68.5" WMS-WMS), 17x9 wheels with 4.5" BS, 40x13.5x17 tires.
 
Team_Jake said:
The frame's are pretty narrow on these vehicles (41-3/16" from outside to outside edges).
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That's more than most fullsize trucks and on par with most fullsize vans.

That said, I have a Ranger with a 32" frame so you should build this so I can copy it. :flipoff2:
 
mobil1syn said:
not an issue. i was asking about the fuel tank because the suspension geo on those thing leaves a lot to be desired paired with him being in cali making a fuel cell difficult.
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It has an F150 tank swap, positioned between the frame rails behind the rear axle, pretty common on these vehicles.
 
Team_Jake said:
This is fully flexed.

BellCrankCapture7.PNG

BellCrankCapture8.PNG


It may rub just slightly on the arm or the bolt connecting the top link. The frame's are pretty narrow on these vehicles (41-3/16" from outside to outside edges). '04 Sterling 10.5 axle (68.5" WMS-WMS), 17x9 wheels with 4.5" BS, 40x13.5x17 tires.
Click to expand...

In the real world you just cut the sidewall of that tire. You need at least 1/4" clearance but I'd be shooting for closer to 1/2.

How much rear steer are you getting with that geometry? Looks like quite a bit from the angle of the tire in the last picture.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
In the real world you just cut the sidewall of that tire. You need at least 1/4" clearance but I'd be shooting for closer to 1/2.

How much rear steer are you getting with that geometry? Looks like quite a bit from the angle of the tire in the last picture.
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Good to know. There's a little room to move the arms inward so I'll make that adjustment.

I think the perspective on that screenshot made it look like it had a lot of flex steer. Fully flexed, the amount of steer angle is 0.18°. Here's a top-down view flexed:
BellCrankCapture9.PNG
 
Are you trying to avoid cutting the wheel wells at all?

I'd think about notching or even moving the frame in to gain some room.

This is the other advantage to trailing arms, the tire doesn't want to eat the shock :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Are you trying to avoid cutting the wheel wells at all?

I'd think about notching or even moving the frame in to gain some room.

This is the other advantage to trailing arms, the tire doesn't want to eat the shock :flipoff2:
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The actual wheel wells into the cab I'm going to try my best to not touch. The body fenders will be a much different story.
 
I haven’t started the rear yet but I ordered everything to get it done (thanks SendCutSend). Sorry for being slow I work full time and have a now 11 month old baby at home so I only get a few hours a week to work on my rig.

Picture below is from 2 months ago, the front is now 95% done and driving. Will start working on the rear in a week or so.

IMG_8370.jpeg
 
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