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Suspension Bolt Sizes?

Because I had 8 LH and 8 RH joints. I was planing to do it the normal way right up to when I ordered the links from BentFab. It was on that phone call I made the "call" for RH lowers/LH uppers.

Make sense I guess

Did they suggest all one way uppers? Or did it just land that way since you went all RH lowers?
 
Not sure if it's outside of what this thread is for, but regarding Left Hand and RH heims - I currently have links set up so the jam nuts can be loosened and links adjusted on-vehicle. I think I've heard complaints about that, and maybe should oppose them (RH threads on both ends instead of LH one side, RH on other). I know I'm not explaining that well, but if anyone has any thoughts on that I'd love to hear it. I've got links tacked together now, but getting ready to finish weld soon, so not too late to cut apart and switch things around

My jam nuts are tight, marked and they never moved.

I made a 6ft wrench to tighten/loosen and adjustment is a breeze if you ever need to.

LH/LH or RH/RH is stupid.
 
Make sense I guess

Did they suggest all one way uppers? Or did it just land that way since you went all RH lowers?

He asked how I wanted my joints set up. I said my plan was L&R per link but had also kicked around the idea of doing both ends of the links the same. He said he has a lot of customers doing both ends the same. At that point I decided to go for it. There wasn't any reason behind going with RH lowers and LH uppers, it's just what I chose.
 
My jam nuts are tight, marked and they never moved.

I made a 6ft wrench to tighten/loosen and adjustment is a breeze if you ever need to.

LH/LH or RH/RH is stupid.

You run rh/LH on lowers also?

I'm having a hard time picturing how you can get a 6' wrench on every jam nut though?
 
I don't have issues with my jam nuts coming loose either. I've had 1 come loose from a rock strike but never both. I run LH/RH on all my links and steering.
 
For everybody shitting on 9/16 bolt availability, regardless of size don’t you have spares in your trail kit? If at a park, I would expect you to at least have them in the tow vehicle/trailer. I just trail wheel and I carry extra hardware. When you’re out at the hammers, decent hardware is 60 miles away, throw a little extra hardware, even if it’s an old bolt in your pack.
 
Like these? All heims and spacers I have are Ruffstuff. I've heard similar before - I don't think I need the high misalignment spacers like this. Off to search TMR's site...

68367EAE-18E0-4647-B71C-33A9785F85DA.jpg



Not sure if it's outside of what this thread is for, but regarding Left Hand and RH heims - I currently have links set up so the jam nuts can be loosened and links adjusted on-vehicle. I think I've heard complaints about that, and maybe should oppose them (RH threads on both ends instead of LH one side, RH on other). I know I'm not explaining that well, but if anyone has any thoughts on that I'd love to hear it. I've got links tacked together now, but getting ready to finish weld soon, so not too late to cut apart and switch things around
5/8” bolt in a 3/4” ball x 7/8” shank rod end on an upper link is where the spacers are thin and tolerance is more critical with a small lip contacting the ball. 1.25” bore is going to be more forgiving. If the misalignment spacers do not touch each other at the center point of the ball then all the bearing load of the bolt torque is on the lip of the ball. If the lip rolls or wear down, bolt torque is lowered. If the cone shape of the misalignment spacer is too thin, the bolt torque can crush the wall and bolt torque is lowered. If the misalignment spacer joint is thin and long over all length the whole joint can flex along with the bolt deforming the spacers and putting a bending load on the bolt.

I am running all right hand everything. It takes longer to align but once it’s done it’s done. It’s easy to tighten the jams as the other rod end will not get loose will tightening the other end. Off center link impacts from rocks or tire rub while not spin the link out of alignment.
 
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Glad you found what you needed, and to beat a dead horse some more, somone mentioned that fine thread is stronger. I don't see how as the shank is still the smae size.
For everybody shitting on 9/16 bolt availability, regardless of size don’t you have spares in your trail kit? If at a park, I would expect you to at least have them in the tow vehicle/trailer. I just trail wheel and I carry extra hardware. When you’re out at the hammers, decent hardware is 60 miles away, throw a little extra hardware, even if it’s an old bolt in your pack.

Nope they don't. I care extra cause it common on a lot of rigs and they are not in the hardware stores. I don't even think Fastenal has them in the store.
 
Glad you found what you needed, and to beat a dead horse some more, somone mentioned that fine thread is stronger. I don't see how as the shank is still the smae size.
The weak part of a bolt is the thread relief at the end of the thread or the minor diameter of the thread. The finer the thread the larger this diameter is. Tensile strength is based on cross section. Thus larger minor thread depth, stronger bolt. Also the larger minor diameter increases the torque than can be applied before stretch.
 
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The weak part of a bolt is the thread relief at the end of the thread or the minor diameter of the thread. The finer the thread the larger this diameter is. Tensile strength is based on cross section. Thus larger minor thread depth, stronger bolt. Also the larger minor diameter increases the torque than can be applied before stretch.
Only if tyhat bolt is loaded in tension. In shear with a proper grip the shank diameter is the same strength and same diameter? True on the torgue but I don't think it's any measure of importance for this application.
 
Only if tyhat bolt is loaded in tension. In shear with a proper grip the shank diameter is the same strength and same diameter? True on the torgue but I don't think it's any measure of importance for this application.
If your bolt is loaded in sheer and not tension, you fucked up.
 
maybe I got that backwards, I still don't see it mattering in a link bracket setup, or enough to quible over. Threading into something like a head bolt, sure.
 
Do you know of any places that will zinc plate a black phosphate treated bolt? If that's even possible, is it at a price point even worth considering?

I am getting a batch black zinc plated/ baked in the very near future. PM if you wanna get in on the lot.
 
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