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Suspension Bolt Sizes?

hall designs goes on rants every now and again on IG about fastners

Craig has been very helpful in helping me understand the proper tech behind the bolts and aerospace rivets.

He's got quite an extensive library of old books on the topic that are cool AF.



I just can't afford him lol
 
Old thread bump - trying to source bolts based on the length of the shank/grip/unthreaded portion of the bolt is proving more difficult than I would have thought. Usually I get everything from an awesome local fastener supply, but while they have what I need, it's only in black phosphate/oil covered. Too bad, since I can just pick bolts up out of the bin and measure in person. The CAT stuff posted above is badass, the fact that they spec out their bolts in 1/4" increments showing 'grip' length of each - unfortunately it's all oil coated/black phosphate as well. Called earlier to verify - no zinc or yellow zinc for their 3/4" fine bolts. Seems like as soon as they're not coated in oil, they rust pretty quick.

12 point stuff is out, since I just welded in a bunch of the Deuling Design nut capture plates (only on the bolt head side, so the bolt can't rotate). Looking for hex head, 3/4" fine bolts with a grip/shank length of 3.25, 3.5 and 3.75. Waiting to hear back from McMaster and Fastenal supposedly - no one I've called seems to know anything other than total bolt length. What am I missing?

Lastly, I was planning to use castle nuts and cotter pins for all link/shock bolts. Torque to spec, line up cotter pin hole and pin, and be as maintenance free as possible. Although in terms of usually bolts not being torqued as much as they should, not sure if that's just extra labor when I could just stover nut and make sure everything's truly torqued to spec:homer: McMaster's site shows their stover nuts as 'medium strength' and not to be used in high vibration environments, and has me second-guessing the original plan. Don't know if castle nuts are considered lighter duty than standard nuts:confused:
 

5-1.75=3.25

1708573956238.png
 
or get whatever you want from craig

 
Old thread bump - trying to source bolts based on the length of the shank/grip/unthreaded portion of the bolt is proving more difficult than I would have thought. Usually I get everything from an awesome local fastener supply, but while they have what I need, it's only in black phosphate/oil covered. Too bad, since I can just pick bolts up out of the bin and measure in person. The CAT stuff posted above is badass, the fact that they spec out their bolts in 1/4" increments showing 'grip' length of each - unfortunately it's all oil coated/black phosphate as well. Called earlier to verify - no zinc or yellow zinc for their 3/4" fine bolts. Seems like as soon as they're not coated in oil, they rust pretty quick.

12 point stuff is out, since I just welded in a bunch of the Deuling Design nut capture plates (only on the bolt head side, so the bolt can't rotate). Looking for hex head, 3/4" fine bolts with a grip/shank length of 3.25, 3.5 and 3.75. Waiting to hear back from McMaster and Fastenal supposedly - no one I've called seems to know anything other than total bolt length. What am I missing?

Lastly, I was planning to use castle nuts and cotter pins for all link/shock bolts. Torque to spec, line up cotter pin hole and pin, and be as maintenance free as possible. Although in terms of usually bolts not being torqued as much as they should, not sure if that's just extra labor when I could just stover nut and make sure everything's truly torqued to spec:homer: McMaster's site shows their stover nuts as 'medium strength' and not to be used in high vibration environments, and has me second-guessing the original plan. Don't know if castle nuts are considered lighter duty than standard nuts:confused:

quit trying to use fine thread :barf:

And how do you know the cotter key being lined up is the correct torque? You can easily get enough turns on a nut to get a cotter key but not be in the same place as started with.

Seems like extra work to just using top locks. Add nordlocks if you want.
 

5-1.75=3.25

1708573956238.png

I can do math - their thread length is a minimum. Confirmed on the phone a couple days ago that there is variability in the actual length of threads cut, and they can't tell you what shank or grip length the bolt actually has. They use different suppliers and the bolts are not all the same.


or get whatever you want from craig


12 points won't work with the 6-point Deuling nut capture plates I welded in.


quit trying to use fine thread :barf:

And how do you know the cotter key being lined up is the correct torque? You can easily get enough turns on a nut to get a cotter key but not be in the same place as started with.

Seems like extra work to just using top locks. Add nordlocks if you want.

Why quit using fine thread - seems a lot more resistant to vibration. Torque castle nut to spec, then just 'overtorque' until cotter pin hole lines up, aka a few degrees. How much are Nord locks per bolt x all suspension bolts. Do any new factory trucks come with nord locks on anything?
 
I can do math - their thread length is a minimum. Confirmed on the phone a couple days ago that there is variability in the actual length of threads cut, and they can't tell you what shank or grip length the bolt actually has. They use different suppliers and the bolts are not all the same.
I had the same problem on a batch of fine thread 1/2" I bought from Grainger a couple of weeks ago."Min Thread Length" fucked me when it had an extra 1/4-3/8" over what I wanted. I'm curious what you find out.
 
Cause they suck :flipoff2: no they are harder to find replacements or nuts for, easier to cross thread, our usage isn't really a "high" vibration environment. Yeah it can happen but ti's not super common. More of a lack of torque spec issue then a fine or coarse thread issue imo.

Yeah I get what your saying but the holes on cotter keys are oversized enough that I'm not sure you'll get back to the same torque spec. Depends on the location cotter keys can be a royal pain either. Even some shocks and suspension bolts that are plainly visible are annoying to get a normal nut on.

I've seen nordlocks on more of AG equipment.
 
I had the same problem on a batch of fine thread 1/2" I bought from Grainger a couple of weeks ago."Min Thread Length" fucked me when it had an extra 1/4-3/8" over what I wanted. I'm curious what you find out.

Yeah that is a issue. CAT has got spotty as well. If it just a little bit then add a washer on one or both ends.
 
I often wonder if bolt failures aren't due to proper torque?

GR8 Zinc Plated UNC
5/8 - 180 lb ft
3/4 - 320 lb ft

GR8 Zinc Plated UNF
5/8 - 204 lb ft
3/4 - 357 lb ft

I find it hard to believe most bolts are torqued properly.

I've always thought the same thing.

I'm not against 3/4" bolts, but I'd bet most anyone would be fine with a properly torqued 5/8" bolt.
 
I just went through this the other day. I went to Cal Ranch since they charge for bolts based on weight and then measured the shank on the spot since McMaster is minimum threaded length, not actual threaded length.

I've thought moving forward I might get sexy with a billet link mount that takes a shear pin that's retained with some smaller fasteners or a shoulder bolt. Using the shank of a normal bolt is kind of janky and the fact you have to cut the threads down is always a pain in the ass too.
 
quit trying to use fine thread :barf:

And how do you know the cotter key being lined up is the correct torque? You can easily get enough turns on a nut to get a cotter key but not be in the same place as started with.

Seems like extra work to just using top locks. Add nordlocks if you want.
This!
 
well then buy a die and cut em to your desired length.

That's just not worth the time if I can order what I need. The CAT catalog and how they spec out their bolts is a gem - wish I could find another vendor that spec'd out their fasteners that way. The Hall Designs bolts are bad ass, and I can see why they're used - the fact that you can buy them in 1/8" increments based on grip length is killer. But the $1,600 it'd cost me to buy all link bolts from them isn't in the budget...

get the cutoff wheel and DA pads out

I don't know if there's enough meat on the 12pt head to grind off:homer:



As for fine vs. course - I'll stick with fine. If you keep your threads clean and somewhat know what you're doing, crossthreading shouldn't be an issue
 
Depends on the location cotter keys can be a royal pain either. Even some shocks and suspension bolts that are plainly visible are annoying to get a normal nut on.

That's very true - I used castle nuts on my other rig for everything and the cotter pins and drilling bolts is a pain in the ass. The trade-off is that in the future you don't have to torque-check every bolt - just give a visual check to confirm cotter pin is there and your good. That was on a leaf sprung rig though, where you can't really torque to spec without smashing bushings
 
I've always used 9/16s for all my leaf bolts. Yes it's a pain to find them longer than 6.5" overall length. All the suppliers ive had experience with dont give a damn about shank length. Adding thread to a high grade bolt is a total pain. You're going to struggle, destroy you die and hate life. I build custom cars and every once in a while I pull it off. Ive never attempted anything larger than 7/16ths. Something tells me, if you did torque your 3/4 link end to 300+ lb/ft, you will probably distort the frame tabs doing it. Stover nuts are lame, they wear the fasteners out. You're better off double-nutting.
 
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That's just not worth the time if I can order what I need. The CAT catalog and how they spec out their bolts is a gem - wish I could find another vendor that spec'd out their fasteners that way. The Hall Designs bolts are bad ass, and I can see why they're used - the fact that you can buy them in 1/8" increments based on grip length is killer. But the $1,600 it'd cost me to buy all link bolts from them isn't in the budget..

so buy the cat bolts and send them out to be plated

I don't know if there's enough meat on the 12pt head to grind off:homer:

i was referring to cutting off the capture plates
 

5-1.75=3.25

1708573956238.png
I can do math - their thread length is a minimum. Confirmed on the phone a couple days ago that there is variability in the actual length of threads cut, and they can't tell you what shank or grip length the bolt actually has. They use different suppliers and the bolts are not all the same.

DesertPOS is absolutely right. I bought my link hardware through McMaster, and the bolts had way more thread on them than the minimum spec :shaking:

quit trying to use fine thread :barf:

Link hardware is an excellent application for fine thread. They're stronger and more vibration resistant. If you buy your hardware from somewhere besides Tractor Supply, it is pretty easy to find fine thread.

That was on a leaf sprung rig though, where you can't really torque to spec without smashing bushings

You should never be torquing against a compliant bushing. There should be a sleeve in the bushing, or you should use a shouldered bolt. I know it is pretty common in the aftermarket, but it's plain retarded.
 
What you want are AN bolts. Aircraft hardware. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/stpages/anbolts.php

The problem is that it looks like no one really carries anything over 1/2" and they aren't cheap either. It looks like 3/4" bolts are NAS6212 according to the chart here: NAS BOLTS

3/4 AN bolt, not cheap, but cheaper than the stuff from Hall Designs.

so buy the cat bolts and send them out to be plated
If someone chooses to do this, make sure the plater is familiar with plating heat treated parts. You need to do a post-plating bake process to ensure the part doesn't get hydrogen embrittlement. If it's bad the bolt can crack just sitting in the box.

I think for an aggressive trail rig, 3/4" grade 8 is plenty. Yes, the thread length is a minimum, but it's pretty consistent within a batch. Go to a decent hardware supplier with a list and a tape measure and find bolts that work.

If I was building a 4400 car, then something more might make sense.
 
ignorance is bliss.... for the life of me why do they sell damn near every link bracket with a 9/16 bolt hole if they are not good enough. i only ask because if the bracket would have come with a 3/4 hole i would have used 3/4 bolts. after i linked my cant tell you how many people told me i should have went with 3/4. i was like fuck..... i maybe able to drill out some of the holes. and step up but not all for sure because too much shit in the way or at crappy angles. bums me out is all.... rant over...
 
DesertPOS is absolutely right. I bought my link hardware through McMaster, and the bolts had way more thread on them than the minimum spec :shaking:

with weld washers or small spacers you can accommodate the variations. if true grip length matters you need should be looking at suppliers who list by grip length (aka the aerospace industry) not mcmaster. shouldered bolts are great, but the clamping force is what holds the joint together not the shear from the bolt acting as a pin.
 
ignorance is bliss.... for the life of me why do they sell damn near every link bracket with a 9/16 bolt hole if they are not good enough. i only ask because if the bracket would have come with a 3/4 hole i would have used 3/4 bolts. after i linked my cant tell you how many people told me i should have went with 3/4. i was like fuck..... i maybe able to drill out some of the holes. and step up but not all for sure because too much shit in the way or at crappy angles. bums me out is all.... rant over...
It's all the XJ's fault.

XJs, and then TJs, and many other linked Jeeps came with 9/16 hardware.

Johnny Joints and other joints were designed to fit in stock brackets.

Aftermarket brackets were designed to fit aftermarket joints.

Fucking XJs.

This is also where the 2-5/8 width comes from.

Edit, Bebop beat me to it.
 
If anyone needs a bit to open a hole from 9/16 to 5/8 or 3/4, these bits are the absolute shit. They work like a charm, last forever, and produce a nice surface finish and a round hole. They aren't cheap however.

 
shouldered bolts are great, but the clamping force is what holds the joint together not the shear from the bolt acting as a pin.
Unless the bolt gets loose, or the friction force is overcome. If shear didn't matter no one would care about grip length.
 
If anyone needs a bit to open a hole from 9/16 to 5/8 or 3/4, these bits are the absolute shit. They work like a charm, last forever, and produce a nice surface finish and a round hole. They aren't cheap however.

how in the fuck did i know you would have a link from mcmaster ... ahhahahaahaha :beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
Unless the bolt gets loose, or the friction force is overcome. If shear didn't matter no one would care about grip length.
I theory you shouldn't have to. I brought this up before and was promptly shut down. Sometimes theory doesn't = reality.
 
If anyone needs a bit to open a hole from 9/16 to 5/8 or 3/4, these bits are the absolute shit. They work like a charm, last forever, and produce a nice surface finish and a round hole. They aren't cheap however.

my problem with these are some holes i could only drill through from one side. could i go through both sides or am i missing how these work. because it said drill distance was only like 1.5 inches. maybe i am missing something
 
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