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Superduty Sterling 10.5 WTF

Jag

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
497
Messages
73
Loc
Commieland
I pulled a disc brake 10.5 out of a e1999 F250 5.4 extra cab long bed 2wd truck but the yoke is for a strapped 1350.




Ive verified 1410s with 3 other single wheel trucks, diesel and v10 gas, 2 and 4wd, long and short beds. The part store websites all show 1410s regardless of what model I pick. I dont have a 5.4 truck to check out but it doesnt make alot of sense that ford would waste the effort to put a smaller yoke and shaft in one trim of very similar model trucks.

It looked stock in the 5.4 truck it came from. the only thing I can come up with is Ford was using up older parts for the 99 year? Is it possible Ford used a whole 10.25 with discs?

I was able to come up with a 1410/1350 combo ujoint that should serve its purpose to drag the boat to the lake this summer but Im not holding my breath that it will last. Im really curious whats the deal with it though.

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I have a rear shaft and tcase out of 99-04. Its 1350, but all flanged. Early-99 is probably the oddity with a proper yoke.

Jobber parts lookup catalogs are terrible. Us 1stgen dodge guys know....
 
I know the rear driveshaft on my 97 C&C is stupid small. It it's even 3" id be surprised.
Guess that blistering 185hp isn't gonna hurt it
 
It'll hold up fine. Not the most common combo joint on the shelf though. Our parts house couldnt even order one for me.

Might be worth keeping a spare on the shelf, just so you never need it:laughing:
 
It'll hold up fine. Not the most common combo joint on the shelf though. Our parts house couldnt even order one for me.

Might be worth keeping a spare on the shelf, just so you never need it:laughing:
Its become more common and cheaper. I got a GMB joint from rockauto a few months ago.
 
I called those 1335 :laughing:



I've seen a couple 7.3 trucks (2000 year) that were 1350 rear shafts, I think they both had a double cardan at t-case?
My 250 im working is on is a short wheel base 4x4 and does have a flange mount to double cardan at the tcase but is definitely 1410 at the axle.

Since I found the combo cheap enough and local it seemed to be the better option over swapping the 1410 yoke from the original. The yoke seems damaged anyway but im not entirely sure, it may have been machined that way and I can swap it out later if there ends up being a problem.



And for a good laugh for you guys that know what your doing ill show why the old 10.5 is being replaced. Its only 25 years old, has never had the cover off or fill plug pulled, 15 or 20 submerged dunks in the lake, river and ocean per year and im not sure its ever actually had a hose hooked to the vent………..Ford really made a POS 😜

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Ive verified 1410s with 3 other single wheel trucks, diesel and v10 gas, 2 and 4wd, long and short beds. The part store websites all show 1410s regardless of what model I pick. I dont have a 5.4 truck to check out but it doesnt make alot of sense that ford would waste the effort to put a smaller yoke and shaft in one trim of very similar model trucks.

It looked stock in the 5.4 truck it came from. the only thing I can come up with is Ford was using up older parts for the 99 year? Is it possible Ford used a whole 10.25 with discs?

Ford plants, at least into the early 00s when the guy who I heard this from would have been in the know will keep older but compatible parts that they have stopped using in reserve to install in order to prevent stoppages.

This is how you get shit like 1994 F150s with NP435s, random 1980s engines with 1960s era forged cranks and 1995/6 E-vans with C6s.

You're likely dealing with a similar situation with that yoke.

You can thank ford for 1330's.
Which only exist because your kind of people would go crazy torquing the straps leading to burnt up needles and warranty work. :laughing:
 
Oh shit, i have to hear this rationalization!
Ford did the thick wall caps because the UAW hacks on the line and the idiots in the dealerships would over-torque the U-bolts and pull shit out of round.

GM, being GM just went with bolt on straps knowing that an additional U-joint size would be too much for their customers and mechanics to handle. :flipoff2:

Of course, now that everything worth a shit uses external snap rings it's irrelevant.
 
Ford did the thick wall caps because the UAW hacks on the line and the idiots in the dealerships would over-torque the U-bolts and pull shit out of round.

GM, being GM just went with bolt on straps knowing that an additional U-joint size would be too much for their customers and mechanics to handle. :flipoff2:

Of course, now that everything worth a shit uses external snap rings it's irrelevant.
It didn't keep me from overtorquing the 1335 larger caps and fucking them up too:homer:
 
The only issue with conversion u joints is that they tend to cost a lot and are hard to find in stock some times.
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I was amazed I found one, Vegas is usually a dead zone for anything specialized aside from wierdos and boutique drugs. I spent $100 on it, a gallon of 75w140 and a felpro cover gasket.

I already had new brakes on the shelf so not including those im all in at about $400 to get this truck going again so I cant complain to much.

Took it for a short drive this morning and the rear seems all good now. Next up is steering since its getting pretty sloppy.
 
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