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Stripping and strippers.

irate4x4.com

Strippers...

Sorry, not the good kinda strippers, but now that I’ve got your attention... Good old klean strip aircraft stripper is now made with some kind of hippie bs and it just doesn’t work. F’n regulations made them remove the crap that actually removes paint. So.... what actually works that’s still...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

Reply #22. Benco B-15.

This stuff is no joke. If you can get it, I highly recommend.
 
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Did a test spot today. About 5 mins, and a little hand brushing came right off. Got down to the primer real easy.

Ordered a bunch more and some wire wheels. Going to be a big mess so I'll park on a tarp. It might just pressure wash off after, but seems easy enough to wire wheel.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
20230726_172332.jpg


Did a test spot today. About 5 mins, and a little hand brushing came right off. Got down to the primer real easy.

Ordered a bunch more and some wire wheels. Going to be a big mess so I'll park on a tarp. It might just pressure wash off after, but seems easy enough to wire wheel.
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Sounds like a fun job getting pelted with high velocity wires coated with paint stripper. Sign me up:smokin:
 
Dethmachinefab said:
20230726_172332.jpg


Did a test spot today. About 5 mins, and a little hand brushing came right off. Got down to the primer real easy.

Ordered a bunch more and some wire wheels. Going to be a big mess so I'll park on a tarp. It might just pressure wash off after, but seems easy enough to wire wheel.
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A sand/grit kit for the pressure washer might help reduce wire wheel time.
 
Just wanted to bump this. Pretty popular on YouTube. I have no personal experience, but for $30, some sand, and a pressure washer, it seems to work pretty well.

 
My guy got most of the top deck stripped off. Few more days work and it ought to be pretty good. Pic is older, he is around to the back side now. I'll have him hit it all again with the wire wheel to knock out what little red bits are left.

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What's the best stuff to paint this with? Looking for long term durability. I think I'll paint it black.
 
Why do you need to strip that paint? Scuff and spray.
 
budget76 said:
black is lame.:flipoff2: and hot in the sun
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I'd like to keep the boom white. Need a color that works white and the remaining yellow bits underneath. So it's pretty much yellow or black. Factory original was yellow.
 
[486] said:
whatever color you decide on, give it an acid etch before you paint it
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Like phosphoric acid? How about etching primers? I'm not educated on paint stuff.

This has been slow going, my guy working at this hasn't been around much. I started sanding the flat bits this evening. 36grit sanding disk on the grinder cuts this down fast. I'll go over it again with a finer grit da before paint.
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Dethmachinefab said:
Like phosphoric acid? How about etching primers? I'm not educated on paint stuff.
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someone told me to garden sprayer phosphoric acid on stuff before painting it
you spray it on straight and let it dry entirely before hitting it with paint and it seems to not flake off in sheets as badly

I imagine other acids would work too, muriatic seems to eat steel pretty bad though so maybe not that one, or maybe that's a good thing
I dunno
 
[486] said:
someone told me to garden sprayer phosphoric acid on stuff before painting it
you spray it on straight and let it dry entirely before hitting it with paint and it seems to not flake off in sheets as badly
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Went down a bit of a rabbit hole because I had heard similar suggestions and have wanted to know more for awhile.

A number of results pointed to Klean Strip Concrete & Metal Prep as being a / the product to use: Concrete & Metal Prep - Klean Strip

Contents:
  • 10 to 30% Phosphoric acid
  • 0.1 to 1% Isopropyl alcohol
  • 0.1 to 1% Alcohol
From the instructions:
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: FOR RUSTED SURFACES (to Remove Rust) 1. Remove any oil, grease, & dirt from surface. Remove loose rust with a wire brush. 2. Apply product to affected metal full strength with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer. Work the solution into rusted areas with a stiff bristle brush and allow product to dry overnight to fully neutralize rust. 3. Rinse or wipe surface with a damp cloth to remove any rust residue. 4. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust. Two applications may be necessary to treat severe rust. FOR TREATING METAL FOR PAINTING (Phosphotizing) 1. Remove any oil, grease and dirt from surface. 2. Dilute one part product with three parts water in a plastic container. 3. Apply product to metal with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer to metal. Leave on 30 minutes or up to overnight. Surface may turn gray/white. 4. Thoroughly rinse with water. 5. Wipe off any loose powder that forms. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust.
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The first instructions - to remove rust - say to rinse or wipe surface and then paint. The second instructions - to treat metal for painting - say to thoroughly rinse with water and then paint.

I see people recommending to neutralize the acid with baking soda during the rinse and be sure to let it dry completely.

I also see people recommending / swearing by Ospho: Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

OSPHO is a balanced formula of Phosphoric Acid, Dichromates, Wetting Agents and Extenders. Ospho is environmentally safe and non-flammable. OSPHO seals out moisture and prevents future rust from forming. OSPHO can be applied to just about any rusted or steel surface.
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I've used Gempler's Rust Converter with decent results: Gemplers Rust Converter
 
PAToyota said:
The first instructions - to remove rust - say to rinse or wipe surface and then paint. The second instructions - to treat metal for painting - say to thoroughly rinse with water and then paint.

I see people recommending to neutralize the acid with baking soda during the rinse and be sure to let it dry completely.
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huh interesting
I was told not to rinse it off because that'd cause flash rust which'd make the paint not stick good
 
They recommend painting soon (within 48 hours above), but I see people saying both that the white film will come through the paint as well as issues with the paint bubbling and flaking off if you don't rinse it.
 
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Took some junk apart, guys out sick so ive got to work on it. Broke the roof glass panel. All the others came out ok, this one was glued and the rubber was hard. Pissed about that.

Painter came by, said he'd do an epoxy primer and then the black. Cab and door I think will go powder coat white, along with some other little parts.
 
The broken glass sucks but, it's better you broke it than your helper. Shit happens!
 
Ospho for an acid etch. Spray it on let it dry and paint right over it is what I would do.

Mastercoat AG111 for paint. Someone on here mentioned it in another thread. I used it for the deck surface of my service truck. It goes on thick and is tough as nails. I'd just brush it on, it flows out nicely.

EDIT: forgot link
nomorerust.com

Rust Preventative Paint & Pitting | Chassis Paint | Buy

Based on the three coat polyurethane system, the Master Series Coating Line is one of the largest sellers in the antique automobile restoration hobby. Learn More
nomorerust.com nomorerust.com
 
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Epoxy primer then polyurethane top coat is gonna be durable but directly over bare untreated steel. Somewhere I read that some top coats don’t like an acid under it like ospho or the like. Don’t use anything like muriatic acid. It will get in corners and crevices and come back out later with a vengeance I’ve had ospho create issues when left on steel and just painted over , kinda looked like minor surface rust under paint. Use only catalyzed paints for durability and gloss retention. I feel epoxy first then follow recoat time for a catalyzed top coat will be best. If you won’t follow the recoat time window, then adhesion issues will result.
 
70 tp said:
Epoxy primer then polyurethane top coat is gonna be durable but directly over bare untreated steel. Somewhere I read that some top coats don’t like an acid under it like ospho or the like. Don’t use anything like muriatic acid. It will get in corners and crevices and come back out later with a vengeance I’ve had ospho create issues when left on steel and just painted over , kinda looked like minor surface rust under paint. Use only catalyzed paints for durability and gloss retention. I feel epoxy first then follow recoat time for a catalyzed top coat will be best. If you won’t follow the recoat time window, then adhesion issues will result.
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Yes, he mentioned needing to have the second coat done in under x hours. No acid but to take remaining paint to bare at least on all the flat surfaces, and finish with a DA sander. The deck will get wire wheeled again to remove as much as possible.
 
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Still poking away at it. Hit the front with the da sander, probably as clean as its going to get. It had some rain blow in so ive got to give it another pass to clean up some fresh rust spots.

My next issue is how am I supposed to clean tons of debris off to get ready for paint. Think I can pressure wash with hot water and towel dry fast enough?
 
air blow gun then a rag drenched in mineral spirits or something similar? by rag, i mean a shower towel
 
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