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Stihl MS211

DNL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Member Number
1786
Messages
100
I need to replace the bar and chain on this saw. It’s used for brush cutting on a volunteer fire department on a wild land fire truck. I’m considering using a yellow full chisel chain. It has the regular green anti-kickback chain now. Or will that be dangerous?
Anything I should know about the bar?
Thanks guys.
 
If you have to ask these questions are you authorized to use this tool?
Personally I like a full chisel, fuck those safety chains but for brush you may want the safety anti kick back chain.
Why are you replacing the bar? did it get run over? Any reputable dealer will hook you up with the proper bar.
 
If you have a full compliment of saws, its not a bad idea to have one with an anti kick chain. A 18" or smaller saw used for bucking could benefit by running a green chain, when you are in there bucking a stack of trees stuff can get tight and you are more likely to nick the tip on something and get a kick. Even for just hacking into brush it can help. But for a big saw used for felling or limbing you want a real chain. Dont look at it as beginner chain (even though it kinda is) but look at it as just another tool. They have their place
 
I usually end up bench grindering the tabs off my anti-kickback chains
I know in my brain that they only take less of a bite at the very end of the bar
but in my heart it just feels like it cuts faster
 
Fishnbeer said:
If you have a full compliment of saws, its not a bad idea to have one with an anti kick chain. A 18" or smaller saw used for bucking could benefit by running a green chain, when you are in there bucking a stack of trees stuff can get tight and you are more likely to nick the tip on something and get a kick. Even for just hacking into brush it can help. But for a big saw used for felling or limbing you want a real chain. Dont look at it as beginner chain (even though it kinda is) but look at it as just another tool. They have their place
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I dunno man, small saws don't kick back all that hard.
I could see it on a 60cc deal running a 28" bar, but little saws?
My sample size of four garbagepicked homeowner saws tells me that so long as you got both hands on the saw, it's worth an "oh my" but not really any feeling of grave danger
 
I would never buy an anti kick chain for any saw. Sounds like you should just run what you feel comfortable with.
 
on that saw I do not see anything wrong with the standard low kick back chain. I think it requires 3/8" PM3 which is a low profile narrow kerf chain. though it is 3/8 pitch, do not use a standard 3/8 chisel chain on it. it will not run well do to the wider kerf of standard chain.

if you do want a chisel chain, the only one I am aware of in low profile would be 3/8 PS3

for brush.
I want narrow kerf, lots of teeth and round ground.
brush is very hard on saw chains. I only use them on larger brush (over 2" stems)
otherwise I use a clearing saw that is 1000x better than a chain saw
 
  • O44 Skip tooth chain on a 36" bar
  • an echo saw from hd..actually use that one the most.
  • And also have a ms180 with saftey chain i use for blackberries, lopping off posts, brush work
  • Ive had a couple kick backs with the big bar and 60cc but you just gotta keep your face clear. df Click image for larger version Name: KIMG0717.JPG Views: 0 Size: 276.9 KB ID: 238614 Click image for larger version Name: KIMG0643.JPG Views: 0 Size: 500.8 KB ID: 238615 Click image for larger version Name: KIMG0628.JPG Views: 0 Size: 294.1 KB ID: 238616
 
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The first time you use a yellow chain you'll see a noticable difference. The first time you kick a yellow chain you'll see a really noticable difference. I'm not mr safety but unless everyone using the saw is competent and experienced I'd say stick with the safety chain
 
Snoop dogg said:
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D Nelly said:
The first time you use a yellow chain you'll see a noticable difference. The first time you kick a yellow chain you'll see a really noticable difference. I'm not mr safety but unless everyone using the saw is competent and experienced I'd say stick with the safety chain
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Threads like this make me realize I have NO idea how to use one safely, well maybe like 10% out of 100.

"Never cut upwards or into the compression (a cut that pinches together)."

Shit Ive done this with fallen trees. Got the saw stuck bunch if times. Had to beat it out with an ax and hammer once. Ruined the chain that time. 45cc 20" husky.

I think I need to either take some chiansaw classes or sell the thing before I mutilate myself.

Just being totally honest here. You dudes who rock them, props.
​​​
 
montrose818 said:
Threads like this make me realize I have NO idea how to use one safely, well maybe like 10% out of 100.

"Never cut upwards or into the compression (a cut that pinches together)."

Shit Ive done this with fallen trees. Got the saw stuck bunch if times. Had to beat it out with an ax and hammer once. Ruined the chain that time. 45cc 20" husky.

I think I need to either take some chiansaw classes or sell the thing before I mutilate myself.

Just being totally honest here. You dudes who rock them, props.
​​​
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Get some plastic wedges to avoid pinching. They wint f up your chain too. I use a big 1" dia rock bar for leverage to move logs into a better position too.
 
montrose818 said:
Threads like this make me realize I have NO idea how to use one safely, well maybe like 10% out of 100.

"Never cut upwards or into the compression (a cut that pinches together)."

Shit Ive done this with fallen trees. Got the saw stuck bunch if times. Had to beat it out with an ax and hammer once. Ruined the chain that time. 45cc 20" husky.

I think I need to either take some chiansaw classes or sell the thing before I mutilate myself.

​​​
Click to expand...

A saw is just another tool, yes it can do damage to you if used incorrectly, just as most power tools can.
if you do want to take a class. check with the local Forest Service as many of them offer saw classes for Volunteers

as mentioned, plastic wedges are important, I have at least 4 with me at all times, both for felling and bucking ( though get a cant kook for rolling logs)

cutting upwards is fine and done all the time (using the top of the bar) you just need to understand the saw will now be pushed towards you and not pulled into the cut.
cutting on the compression side is also very common, just not all the way through unless you have a wedge in there.

this tree is not naturally bent. it is loaded that way because of haw it fell. cutting the back side (tension) would be very dangerous as it would suddenly break and toss you back like a rag doll (it is 36" Cedar tree)
lots of shallow cuts on the compression side, relieve the stress and got it off the road.

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FYI
I do this for fun and enjoyment and volunteer work
I do not work in the industry
I only sell firewood on the side because if I didn't I would have 400 cords piled on my property:laughing:
 
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Semi Chisel > Full Chisel

Unless your cutting extremely clean wood with no dirt get semi chisel chain and yes get green chain due to the variety of users. I just purchased a MS500i w/28" bar and we only had full chisel chain at work and as soon as I hit dirt with it I had to change it out for another chain. I also bought a 36" bar and some full skip semi chisel chain to slab some logs with.
 
Wizzle said:
Anyone get the feeling this is a Ashke mcbuttsex alias? Lol the question seems like something he’d ask
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I absolutely want to be offended about this comment, but old McButtsex probably has more chainsaw operating experience than most of our firemen.
 
I got the same green chain it had before but got carbide teeth for more durability I hope. Upon examination, the bar is fine, it’s discolored on the bottom edge as if someone got it very hot. This is most likely due to the incredibly dull chain that was on the saw.
I also discovered the local hardware store sharpens chains, so I’ll get the old ones sharpened and it’ll be all ready to get F’ed up again.
 
We got Jewels a 211 last year, I gave her some advice, did some research, originally thought she'd want a 171 or maybe a 180, but at the Stihl dealer, hands-on, she decided that the 211 was the saw for her. It's been a great little saw too. I thought the EZ start and tool less chain tension were gimmicks at first, but they've been great features. It's powerful enough for most homeowner and farm stuff, and is super light weight. I've got an early '90s Husqvarna 51 with a 55 jug/piston, and have gotten to where I'll grab her 211 instead of the old 51 when I need to cut something.

I taught Jewels to run a saw, we didn't even fight once, and she took to it like a fish to water. Once she got comfortable, she became a clear cutting machine, it's pretty damn adorable. She's cutting and bucking, and I'm making a big ass pile with the front end loader on the tractor.
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Very cool. That bar is longer than ours. Ours is just 16” and doesn’t have tooless chain tension adjustment.
 
DNL said:
I got the same green chain it had before but got carbide teeth for more durability I hope. Upon examination, the bar is fine, it’s discolored on the bottom edge as if someone got it very hot. This is most likely due to the incredibly dull chain that was on the saw.
I also discovered the local hardware store sharpens chains, so I’ll get the old ones sharpened and it’ll be all ready to get F’ed up again.
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Fuckin' really ? A hardware store to sharpen your chain ? Lord help you if your ever someplace where you can't get someone else to sharpen your chain. Holy shit.

That POS "anti-kickback: shit is for posers.

Do you even own a pair of Caulks ? Do you even have a clue what they are ?

'nuff said
 
I assume your Caulk is bigger than mine from your superior attitude.



If we’re sharpening our own chainsaw chains at a fire, things have gone way south.
 
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