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Sluggy's everyday 87 runner

Sluggy said:
Better than a rag joint, haven't had a issue in 30k miles
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Not really, rag joints last 100s of 1000s of miles.

Those things will eventually wear out the splines and become sloppy.

Glad it's worked for you, but I can't see why you would use one when you can just use a factory Toyota joint that clamps the splines.

Also, you can't die, I need someone to sell shitty 4x4 parts to :flipoff2:
 
Stabbed the engine in today
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Got the flywheel/ clutch mounted up and started on the wiring yesterday. Have a bunch of upgrades in doing along with the swap
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Not much room at full bump, looks like a sway bar will be going on the rear.


Edit for additional info

I used the larger 3rz clutch/flywheel on the 2rz which all fits fine and dandy but you must use the 2rz flywheel bolts per LC ENGINEERING. Just a fyi for anyone else.
 
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Eta reply to post #59
Dimple drill the shaft,bearing retainer grade locktite, do it right the first time and pay attention to the p.m. and you might just live:flipoff2:
But anything you neglected will kill you :beer:
 
Sluggy said:
So here's the plans for the winter upgrades

-Engine (I've been talking about doing this for way to long now) It's hard to swap out a running engine for more work....
2RZ with a TRD blower
ORS conversion harness
Everything is takes to do the swap

-transmission/t cases
R151f with stock to stock 23 spline gear driven cases

-Supension
Traction bar
Air bumps on all 4 corners
Front sway bar

-Move the dual optimas out of the engine bay
-Onboard shower
-Premier welder
-Fix or redesign the rear tire carrier/bumper

And other random things that come up.

Jimbo
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What bellhousing did you use for the 151 to bolt up to the 3rz? Also, did you need an adapter for the top shift cases?
 
Bellhousing is from a 2005+ 4cylinder tacoma with a R series transmission. As for the front tcase, I only swapped the shift rail to a top shift case and put a block off plate on the tranny. No special adapter needed.
 
I picked up the blower used for a price I couldn't refuse, I do have a early svo turbo and intercooler that I was planning on putting on the buggy. Only issue is toyota computers can't handle all the boost I want to give it. A Haltech stand alone would double my hp and torque numbers but I don't know how it would fair long term wheeling.

It's a California vehicle it will always be "smogged"
 
Sluggy said:
I picked up the blower used for a price I couldn't refuse, I do have a early svo turbo and intercooler that I was planning on putting on the buggy. Only issue is toyota computers can't handle all the boost I want to give it. A Haltech stand alone would double my hp and torque numbers but I don't know how it would fair long term wheeling.

It's a California vehicle it will always be "smogged"
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What's the limits of a 3rz computer? I thought they were pretty good for boost?


My 4runner was registered in plumas County when I was down there. Wasn't sure if you had something similar.
 
Sluggy said:
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Started mounting the glass fenders last night, realized in going to need some nicer coil overs with this wider opening.
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Spray paint them flat black and solve the look problem:laughing:
 
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Slander said:
Spray paint them flat black and silver the look problem:laughing:
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I need some good resi 2.0 coil overs and I've been looking at the fox dsc adjustable kind. I over heated these emulsion shocks in Baja and blew the seals out lol
 
looking good. curious to see how the blower fits with the power steering. Be sure to post up what you come up with.
 
How is it pulling trans / t-cases with the vehicle in the air? I have a similar Challenger lift with the cables / floor pan on the ground and I've wanted to get a transmission jack for a lift, but always thought having to roll over the floor pan with the jack wouldn't work out too well lol
 
J.Cole Plenty of room to pull the tcases/tranny, highly recommend a tranny jack and pole Jack's. I've had some issues with pulling trannys on other vehicles but usually mussle it over the bump. I just did my brothers cclb super duty transmission last month on the rack, bump wasn't in the way. I've always considered building a plywood platform to make everything flat but 10 years later and still haven't done it.... also tranny Jack's are great for doing suspension adjustments/ installs, charged shocks,diffs, and making anything easier on your back.

OK back to the runner, been mapping out the wiring and working with that mostly. Doing little nut and bolt stuff and starting to assemble all the bolt on things. Mounted the premier welder on the driver's fender and hoping to get back on it this weekend. Gotta talk with ORS about 2 wires I have questions on.

What I've noticed with the conversion harness is that they like just leave some of the old engine harness in the bay that's not needed. So just trying to clean everything up the best I can.
 
Been plugging away at the tedious stuff, had some issues with locating a certain wire for the ORS conversion harness. In the destructions it says to plug into the solid black wire where the igniter plug is. Turns out my oem harness black wire had red dashes on it, a rarity according to ORS. The other wire is black with a red stripe for reference.

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I'm using all spade connectors right now into the OE plugs to make sure everything works before I clean it all up. I plan on using a water tight style plug when it's working properly.


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Here's where it plugs into the injector resistor on the passenger firewall.


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Also started wiring in the premiere welder with a GM alternator. PW brown wire goes to the toyota yellow wire by the drivers headlight for the charge light on the dash to work properly.

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Started messing with the heat exchanger and water pump for the shower.

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When making new battery/ welder cables I noticed this on my old wires.
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Can't really see it but it says 12vguy.com. thanks Darren, still using your stuff after 10 plus years of service.
 
Sluggy said:
Been plugging away at the tedious stuff, had some issues with locating a certain wire for the ORS conversion harness. In the destructions it says to plug into the solid black wire where the igniter plug is. Turns out my oem harness black wire had red dashes on it, a rarity according to ORS. The other wire is black with a red stripe for reference.

20240124_185149.jpg


I'm using all spade connectors right now into the OE plugs to make sure everything works before I clean it all up. I plan on using a water tight style plug when it's working properly.


20240124_185619.jpg

Here's where it plugs into the injector resistor on the passenger firewall.


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Also started wiring in the premiere welder with a GM alternator. PW brown wire goes to the toyota yellow wire by the drivers headlight for the charge light on the dash to work properly.

20240124_212755.jpg


Started messing with the heat exchanger and water pump for the shower.

20240124_194052.jpg
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When making new battery/ welder cables I noticed this on my old wires.
20240124_213750.jpg

Can't really see it but it says 12vguy.com. thanks Darren, still using your stuff after 10 plus years of service.
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Soo while at Rubicon/fordyce, throw a hose in the lakes and rivers and party on with the shower:smokin::smokin:
 
fwiw
Next time we're round the campfire....
Ask me about my re swap harnesses:eek:
 
Started on pulling the interior apart Monday and connecting/ figuring out the way the wires want to run.

Had hella fun beating on the buggy at Hollister on Saturday. Good way to keep me motivated on the runner.
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This is the only computer plug on the 22re harness that doesn't get used in the ors harness. You still have to splice into the green/white and green/blue wire on this plug.
 
Just finished up mounting the GM alternator, it's nice how you can use all the factory RZ mounts. Just needed a spacer on the back of the alt. Had to get a longer belt then what oe calls for, reason being that the alt was hitting the engine. Went a inch over and is a little close to maxed out but I'm good with it right now. Also had the mounts that were clearanced
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Anyone have an opinion on where to mount my fuel regulator? Was thinking above the engine with the return line running parallel withthe fuel rail. The silver wrapped hose was my first idea.
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Had some time last night to start messing with how to mount the tc pump with the supercharger, this is my first idea.
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I'm using the factory power steering pump bracket. I had to drill the through bolt hole on the pump to match the bracket.
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The plan is to use this 90* bracket off the bolt hole on the head to the threaded boss on the pump. I also had to grind the oe pump bracket and SC idler bracket down to fit the pump.
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Looks like you're getting it dialed in. The driver's side of the 3rz swap with hydro assist and a super charger is the definition of cramming ten pounds of shit in five pound bag. I am waiting to see how you package the hydro lines, super charger, and cooling lines in the area.
 
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