Shop and Tools: Tips and Tricks

[arse_sidewards]

2003-2006 DODGE MERCEDES SPRINTER Bottle Jack And Tools A9035800018 OEM | eBay

2003-2006 DODGE MERCEDES SPRINTER Bottle Jack And Tools A9035800018 OEM. Condition is Used. Shipped with Standard Shipping.

www.ebay.com

It's also several times more expensive than a normal 2-stage bottle jack.

But based on what you drive I think overpaying for hipster shit is kind of your thing so maybe the Mercedes jack would serve you better.

 

[CarterKraft]

It's also several times more expensive than a normal 2-stage bottle jack.

But based on what you drive I think overpaying for hipster shit is kind of your thing so maybe the Mercedes jack would serve you better.

$32 is a deal for that capability

 

[arse_sidewards]

10-ton is $50. Pretty sure I paid $100 years back.

Edit: I paid $70 for a 6-ton in 2022

 

[CarterKraft]

I've been singing the virtues of that trick since the old site.

I have had a stack of hard drives for 10 years to get these magnets out and just never got around to it.

10-ton is $50. Pretty sure I paid $100 years back.

Edit: I paid $70 for a 6-ton in 2022

The height would be awesome for belly pans and shit. Doesn't need a bunch of capacity or anything just need more stroke so you don't have to crib shit 3 levels.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I have had a stack of hard drives for 10 years to get these magnets out and just never got around to it.

I have a drawer full of magnets I'm still using up from college.

The height would be awesome for belly pans and shit. Doesn't need a bunch of capacity or anything just need more stroke so you don't have to crib shit 3 levels.

Definitely get the small one then for less pumps.

Maybe buy one of those $100 toe jacks and weld the 2-stage 4-ton to the toe for even more height?

 

[bgaidan]

Nothing earth shattering...
I finally bought some tap/drill charts off eBay, got a fullsize poster and a bunch of pocket charts, I usually use the pocket charts more than the wall chart (don't even have a place for a wall chart at the moment.

1/2" thin magnet double side taped to the pocket charts, deployed them to the lathe and drill press, gonna make another one for the bench peg board.

Then after I recently after way too long harvested some hard drive magnets I drilled/tapped a hole for one to hold the chuck key, that's a should of gone it 15 years ago project

FYI - You can get those charts free from Starrett.

 

[arse_sidewards]

FYI - You can get those charts free from Starrett.

All the manufacturer's charts are shit unless you're at a desk drawing parts in my opinion. I really like this one.

Physics Instrument Shop:Tap Drill Chart

www.physics.wisc.edu

I had a big laminated one made and I stick it behind the EMT conduit to my light switch.

This one is really good too.

Drill Bit Size Chart

 

[CarterKraft]

FYI - You can get those charts free from Starrett.

I think I paid for the wall chart and the pocket charts where free. $15 for the lot
1 poster and 30 pocket references.

 

[CarterKraft]

All the manufacturer's charts are shit unless you're at a desk drawing parts in my opinion. I really like this one.

Physics Instrument Shop:Tap Drill Chart

www.physics.wisc.edu

I had a big laminated one made and I stick it behind the EMT conduit to my light switch.

This one is really good too.

Drill Bit Size Chart

I'm not a machinist I just need to see some decimal references and a close tap size.

 

[billybob_81067]

Too much b.s. for me.

I like this one for drill bit to decimal conversion.

And this one for tap-drill sizes.

Bolt torque chart

And trailer plug wiring diagram.

Have them all laminated and where I need them most.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Then after I recently after way too long harvested some hard drive magnets I drilled/tapped a hole for one to hold the chuck key, that's a should of gone it 15 years ago project

Fuck that's a good idea.

 

[CarterKraft]

Fuck that's a good idea.

It wasn't mine, I stole it from one of these threads but it is a awesome idea.

I drilled some shit the other day and almost fumble fucked around looking for the key on the now clean drill press. Dumb ass it's right there

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Does this work?
I have this issue with the Sienna. Gonna try this and report back.

TLDR: Swollen lug nuts because chrome cover jam in the socket. Fix by cocking the impact wrench sideways while you install/remove nuts to beat the chrome cover back to size.

He seems to think it works when they got water in them that froze, not sure it it works when it's due to rust jacking the cover out.

 

[aczlan]

Does this work?
I have this issue with the Sienna. Gonna try this and report back.

TLDR: Swollen lug nuts because chrome cover jam in the socket. Fix by cocking the impact wrench sideways while you install/remove nuts to beat the chrome cover back to size.

He seems to think it works when they got water in them that froze, not sure it it works when it's due to rust jacking the cover out.

Tried that on the Yukon, helped on some that weren't too bad, didn't work on others, but they may have been swollen due to rust.
Need to order a set of solid ones instead of capped ones before I take the snows off.


Aaron Z

 

[Brad]

When I worked at a shop that was for most jeeps, around the time TJs first came around, those lug nuts with covers pissed me off too many times to count 😡

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

 

[Sluggy]

Wouldn't you have a issue with proper torque? I've had issues with just water or oil being in a blind hole and not having anywhere to escape/ giving false readings.

 

[Tech Tim]

Wouldn't you have a issue with proper torque? I've had issues with just water or oil being in a blind hole and not having anywhere to escape/ giving false readings.

Yeah, that's BS. That will basically create a dead-head hydraulic lock and give you a false torque reading.

The proper way is to add a couple drops to the side of the female threads and let them run down the threads. As you are screwing the bolt in, it will distribute the Locktite around the threads and give you a fairly even coating.

 

[bgaidan]

Yeah, that's BS. That will basically create a dead-head hydraulic lock and give you a false torque reading.

There was a picture floating around FB a few weeks ago that showed part of a cast engine block split apart at a bolt hole - either a head bolt or a manifold bolt - claiming that it happened because the hole was full of oil and the bolt created enough hydraulic pressure to bust it apart. I can't find that pic now, but I was questioning if it was real. I could see it happening if you put all the uggas to it, but I can imagine it would to it if you were following any type of proper torque schedule.

 

[Yotota]

There was a picture floating around FB a few weeks ago that showed part of a cast engine block split apart at a bolt hole - either a head bolt or a manifold bolt - claiming that it happened because the hole was full of oil and the bolt created enough hydraulic pressure to bust it apart. I can't find that pic now, but I was questioning if it was real. I could see it happening if you put all the uggas to it, but I can imagine it would to it if you were following any type of proper torque schedule.

100%

Especially on a casting where the bolt stops just shy of a void. The bottom on a drilled hole is a weak spot and would definitely blow through with enough hydraulic pressure under the bolt.

 

[Lbhsbz]

There was a picture floating around FB a few weeks ago that showed part of a cast engine block split apart at a bolt hole - either a head bolt or a manifold bolt - claiming that it happened because the hole was full of oil and the bolt created enough hydraulic pressure to bust it apart. I can't find that pic now, but I was questioning if it was real. I could see it happening if you put all the uggas to it, but I can imagine it would to it if you were following any type of proper torque schedule.

I've done it...

 

[Tech Tim]

There was a picture floating around FB a few weeks ago that showed part of a cast engine block split apart at a bolt hole - either a head bolt or a manifold bolt - claiming that it happened because the hole was full of oil and the bolt created enough hydraulic pressure to bust it apart. I can't find that pic now, but I was questioning if it was real. I could see it happening if you put all the uggas to it, but I can imagine it would to it if you were following any type of proper torque schedule.

The torque force(?) you can get out of a helical thread is pretty amazing.

 

[budget76]

I read it's common-ish on LS engines when I was reading up on studs vs bolts. Basically just says make sure you blow the holes out before installing the heads

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I have always just put a drop (blue) on the threads
I have never had one back out on anything

 

[JohnnyJ]

I read it's common-ish on LS engines when I was reading up on studs vs bolts. Basically just says make sure you blow the holes out before installing the heads

Given the torque to yield bolts, I see it being more common. If you are giving all the torques to get your final 5* and fighting against a hyrdraulic'd bolt hole, I could see it coming down to immovable object vs unstoppable force.

 

[budget76]

Given the torque to yield bolts, I see it being more common. If you are giving all the torques to get your final 5* and fighting against a hyrdraulic'd bolt hole, I could see it coming down to immovable object vs unstoppable force.

yep, that was the consensus

I forgot to blow the holes out before the first head went on. Guess I got lucky coolant wasn't in there

 

[richardskinner]

The torque force(?) you can get out of a helical thread is pretty amazing.

I think we could rough this out. I'd love to do the calc for a head bolt, but I don't want to deal with M11, metric conversions, and figuring out what the actual torque of a lubricated M11 torqued to 22ft-lb then advanced 90 degrees is

Let's take a 1/2" grade 8 bolt for example -

Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt

Torque values for various grades and diameters of fasteners.

www.portlandbolt.com

Clamping force = 12,788 lbs
Area of the bolt = 0.19635 in^2

pressure created in the fluid that bolt is deadheading against = 12,788lbs/0.19635in^2 = 65,129 psi

It's actually probably higher pressure because the actual surface area of the point of a bolt is less than the diameter at the threads since some of the threads wouldn't be against the fluid. So yeah, don't deadhead a bolt into fluid

 

[Pony_Driver]

Does this work?
I have this issue with the Sienna. Gonna try this and report back.

TLDR: Swollen lug nuts because chrome cover jam in the socket. Fix by cocking the impact wrench sideways while you install/remove nuts to beat the chrome cover back to size.

He seems to think it works when they got water in them that froze, not sure it it works when it's due to rust jacking the cover out.

Us a 7/8" and send it. The 13/16" chrome covered lug nuts all end up wonky after a few on/off cycles.

 

[Yotota]

Us a 7/8" and send it. The 13/16" chrome covered lug nuts all end up wonky after a few on/off cycles.

Or find the best fitting 21mm socket and send it. I ignore specified lug nut sizes and use the best fitting socket I have, metric or SAE.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Lisle disconnect pliers.

They're NOT cheap at about $90 CDN, but they look pretty easy to cobble-fab out of some cheap pliers and obviously don't need to be super strong or super accurate.

Gonna add them to my list of shit to build someday.