Great back and forth guys. The shocks impact on the rate of body roll makes sense as well.
And thanks Dougal for your interesting insight as well.
I find this particular comment pretty interesting. In long travel offroad, are we really trying to remove much energy in rebound? It seems like we're trying to reset the axle as fast as possible before the next compression event, but doing so in a somewhat controlled manner (maybe bypass rebound tubes, or a "top out zone" in the shock to slow it down before pulling the strap tight. Of course having too little rebound would negatively effect ride quality everywhere else so it's always a compromise.
I guess a strange thing about the really high speed stuff is how little rebound time they spend with the tire actually contacting the ground. Like that Bryce Menzies video I put on the first page, he's literally skipping from whoop to whoop, compression event to compression event in some of those shots, with no tire contact during rebound. I know that's an edge case, but still interesting to observe
Basically the amount of damping force required to achieve a fast and stable rebound is way higher than most people appreciate.
Have you ever driven a vehicle with a blown shock or broken mount? They're completely uncontrollable in any dynamic situation. Even in a relatively stable situation of driving down a straight road the bounce and wallow is incredible.
Springs absorb and return bump energy. If you don't damp out that energy in the shock on compression and rebound you're in for a bad time. Uncontrolled rebound will have the inertia of the unsprung weight (wheels, hubs, axles, swingarm) destroying your shocks in short order. That's on top of the vehicle being unstable.
Have you had a look at the new Bilstien Blackhawk UTV shocks? With the piston area of the internal bump, I'm unsure how effective they are. Especially with the shaft size. Seems like better than nothing but not as good as a separate bump type marketing ploy.
No I haven't. I find it basically impossible to keep up with even mainstream suspension developments, let alone all the niche products.
The hydraulic bump stops I've dealt with (suspension and industrial applications) have a plunger running deeper past a set of orificies so they get more progressive. The deeper it goes the more it passes and the firmer it gets. When you're forcing oil through fixed size orifices the forces square with speed.
Hit the bottom-out circuits slowly and you likely won't even feel it. Hit them at 3 times the speed and you've got 9 times as much hydraulic force. 4 times the speed is 16x the force etc.
It doesn't often take a lot of hydraulic bump-stop force to suck the life from the end of the stroke and prevent the hard bottom-out shock.
I agree with both points, you need stronger mounts and shocks. I just don’t see how that’s a problem. On the axle, If 1/4” plate is not strong enough, use 3/8”. If that’s not strong enough, use 1/2”. On the frame, you may have to use a plate to spread out the force. Of course the shock company would build the shock to hold up. It just seems to me one mount on the axle and frame at each corner to handle spring, shock and bump is a nice clean way to do it. (Assuming coil overs)
On your discussion about rebound dampen, I’ve never understood the logic of increased damping on rebound. It seems to me that when you travel over washboard, you are eventually riding on the bump stops. I live on a dirt road and I think I’ve experienced this In my Bronco. The beginning of the washboard is not bad, but after 20 feet, I feel like I’m on the stops. I assume that you are correct because everything I read says the same, but I sure would love to have a completely adjustable shock (both compression and rebound) and do some testing. I know there are adjustable shocks , but I don’t want take them apart. I would like adjustment knobs or some such.
Sure if everything is strong enough you can run internal hydraulic bottom out.
On wash-boards (corrugations, ripples, etc), you can have packing or jacking depending on the amount of compression and rebound damping you have in that speed zone.
If you've got packing then your low speed rebound damping is greater than your low speed compression.
If you've got jacking then your low speed compression damping is greater than your low speed rebound.
A good tuner will give you the right balance between the two to keep the suspension up over washboards without screwing up the bigger bump response.
Suspension tuning gets very complicated very quickly.
Shock adjustments don't do the same as internal tuning. The adjusters effects are limited and each one will affect the shock in unintended ways. Like closing rebound adding more compression damping, low speed and high speed compression are inter-dependent and the check valves on each can get ugly at the limits of operation.