Shitbox F350

[brantb]

Figured i would post up something for people to look at to waste time. Sold my 19 F250 since prices were crazy and picked up an 05 F350. The story i was told was: It was brought in for repairs, the person never paid so the repair shop put a lean on it and got it. Then the owner/operator cut a finger off and couldn't continue. Owner decides to sell, hires a consultant to help with the consolidation. Part of the sale is this F350, which is then sold. The buyer doesn't make all the payments, so it is repossessed. I find it on FB marketplace, check it out, and pick it up for $4400. Apparently the person who owned if for a while wants to graciously swap some nicer tire on it, but i don't think i will pursue that.

Anyways, it is a 2005 CCSB F350, V10 auto, XL 4x4. Has 110k? miles. It has a broken door handle and a blank key cylinder. I brought it home and parked it in the garage to begin the unfucking of the previous owners.






So far i have found new front handles/locks and a keyed ignition, so i dont have to start it with a screw driver. I had to tear apart the column to get the the ignition actuator which sucked. You may also notice the sweet bucket seats and center console, which didnt come from the factory. That all needs to go and i will replace it with take out 40/20/40 seats from whatever actually bolts in.

The door panels look like someone didnt know what they were doing and just tore them off instead of lifting off, so those might get replaced eventually. The door speakers were replaced with some 6.5s that are barely held in, so those need to go. I will eventually get a radio and some 6x8s that actually fit.

It also has some herculiner around the lower parts of the body. It partially covers some bondo, but otherwise the body is rust free. I will work on getting that off and seeing if my FIL will do some body work on yet another vehicle.

 

[posford]

Neat, what's the plan for it?

 

[brantb]

Right now it is just to get it safe to drive. The carrier bearing is done on the drive shaft. Drag link will be finished up tonight. Picked up some brand new take off wheel/tires ($700) from a 20 F250, so those will be bolted up. I have a little vibration still so i will be narrowing that down. The windshield needs to be replaced, and pass mirror should be.

After that, in no specific order:
get a radio and speakers
new front seats that bolt into stock locations
carpet the interior
tailgate
new fan speed switch
new front door panels(3/4 of the tabs are snapped off so they rattle around)
all the maintenance stuff that probably hasnt been done in 35k miles
tune to wake it up

After it seems like it is good for a DD, probably a level or small lift and 35-37s and a regear.



I also need to start taking some photos so people can get a good laugh and tell me the easier way to do things after i take the longest way possible

 

[brantb]

Anyone know part numbers for the following, all for sterling 10.5:
Inner/outer bearings and cups
inner seal
oil slinger
axle shaft o ring

Planning on doing the rear hub bearings. I know one inner seal is bad, so figure i should probably just do both sides at the same time. Anything i am missing from the list?

Looks like this will work + oil slingers: https://torqueking.com/product/8333/tk8333-torque-king-rear-wheel-bearing-and-seal-kit/

 

[rattle_snake]

I doubt the 10.5 bearing need to be replaced. just get seals and orings, then open up and inspect.

 

[brantb]

Ordered the seal and the socket to remove the axle nut. Forgot the o ring, but i found more that needs to be replaced so that will be done at that time. Tire and shaft came out fine, but could not break the disk off the hub. Eventually just had to pull the hub with the disk still on, then a 5lb sledge and a board knocked the hub from the disk. Of course the seal broke in half, so that sucked. I tried all sorts of stuff to pull the half of a seal off the axle, but just ended up going with the grinder. I just nicked the axle, so that will be fine.

When i first pulled the hub, i noticed a good amount of rust on the backing plate. Figured it was just some surface rust, but was wrong. The backing plate was basically held together by the parking brake components. Took all that off, and it will all have to be replaced. At this point i will be doing both sides, and replacing those brakes and seal. The axle was leaking gear oil for quite a while, so everything in there was nasty. Getting the parking brake disconnected was a major pain, and i almost cut the entire thing off, but i took a break and came back to it.

Have to get this thing up and driving, so no parking brake for a while. Put the hub back together and so far so good. The bearing looked good to me, and spun good. I guess i wouldnt know a bad bearing unless it was missing rollers.

 

[brantb]

Anyone have wiring diagrams for an 05 SD? I am getting a tbc fault, and through the process i have found that my reverse lights are grounded. The wire from the engine bay to the rear of the vehicle is good. I have it traced to a connector in the engine bat into the fuse box(s) or interior of the truck.

 

[72Pstroke]

I should have it. Send me a PM with your number, and I will text you some pics of it.

 

[brantb]

I have been working on getting this thing driving good, and already have more into it than i expected. After replacing the carrier bearing i still had a vibration. After checking u joints and tons of searching i finally just decided to bring the rear shaft in for a balance. They said it was out of round by .060 which i thought was nothing. They said in the driveshaft world that is a lot. Had to have the rear of the shaft retubed. They obviously knew their stuff because the vibration is gone.

I replaced the rear passenger axle seal. Doing this i figured out the backing plate for the parking brakes was rusted through, so i just pulled that side.

Rear end was leaking bad at the pinion, so i replaced that seal. Pulling the flange was a pain, but the puller did its job.

Drained and refilled the tcase assuming it had not been done in a long time. The fluid looked good, but now i know how old the fluid is. There is a decent delay when turning the rear shaft before the front starts to move, so i am assuming the chain is stretched. Not sure on this, but also not going to do anything about it as of now.

Replaced the front door panels so they dont rattle as i drive.

windshield replaced, and hacked some glass into the pass mirror so that is better, replaced the fan resistor, and some electrical headaches to get the reverse lights working and the trailer connector working. In the end it took replacing a relay that was missing. That is hours wasted

Tore the plastic drop in liner out of the bed to expose years of dirt, grease, and rust. One of the POs welded nuts to the box bolts. Not sure what that is about, but will replace those, sand the box and line it with something.

Still have yet to find a reasonable priced tailgate or seats and dont have a radio yet, but i have put 2500 miles on it and it is running great.

ETA: Also closed on the first chunk of land. 160 acres in KS. This is why i sold my 19 f250 and 20 mustang. Still looking for another 160 to 320 acres

 

[billybob_81067]

Did you replace the mirrors yet? If you want to upgrade the newer style (more rectangular) mirrors bolt right up and I like them better than those more rounded corner ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Towing-Mir...450-F550-Super-Duty-Power-Heated/264815044362

 

[665.0coupe]

ETA: Also closed on the first chunk of land. 160 acres in KS. This is why i sold my 19 f250 and 20 mustang. Still looking for another 160 to 320 acres

Where are you looking for land and what are you looking for?

 

[brantb]

Where are you looking for land and what are you looking for?

Looking for land that is in CRP, or has farming income. I figure if i keep buying chunks of 160 or 320 i can get them paid off and use the income to continue buying more. Then at some point sell it all and look for one continuous tract. Location doesnt really matter as much as income generation