Shipping Crate Project

arse_sidewards said:
:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:


You got maybe a couple dozen hours at those power levels. Might last a week, might last a few years depending on how much you do or don't put your foot in it.
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I respectfully disagree. Its setup to be solid at 1000, bores are honed for around .008" piston to wall and rings get gapped big. Arp main studs, and ARP rod bolts.

Haisely fire ring head gasket, with ARP 625 studs. That is a proven setup to make 4 digit horsepower and stay together.

Now the squarebody Chevy, gonna get twisted up like a pretzel.
 
Alexis700 said:
The plan is just a plain ole 5.9 12 valve bottom end that is ready to make 1000 hp and be reliable. But a 6.7 crank engine would be cool.

Also that plan inolves swapping that engine into my 84 k20, with a 47rh and 1st gen dodge np205. Time and lots of $$$ and it will happen.
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Spending your money is so much easier than mine so might I suggest we go back to the conversation about running a ford 6.0-6.4 ZF6 behind a 12V?
 
V30crewcab said:
you clearly know nothing about these engines. go back to chitchat!
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Typical mouth breathing "cummings bruh" fanboy. :shaking:

I'm not saying OP can't make a daily drivable 1000hp

I'm saying that 1000hp tends to reach it's inevitable conclusion way more quickly in a "lemme just plop this BDL on muh car hauler and cross that mountain" application than it does in a street truck. Keep an eye on all the temp gauges I guess.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Typical mouth breathing "cummings bruh" fanboy. :shaking:

I'm not saying OP can't make a daily drivable 1000hp

I'm saying that 1000hp tends to reach it's inevitable conclusion way more quickly in a "lemme just plop this BDL on muh car hauler and cross that mountain" application than it does in a street truck. Keep an eye on all the temp gauges I guess.
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typical talk **** knows nothing arse!
 
What part of "stock bottom end" didn't your mullet and bowtie ass get?


The 5.9 stock bottom end isn't gonna like living within spitting distance of four figures. Like I said, you'll get a bunch of passes on it but you're using up some of it's borrowed time while you're on it. I'm not saying anything novel here.
 
arse_sidewards said:
:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:


You got maybe a couple dozen hours at those power levels. Might last a week, might last a few years depending on how much you do or don't put your foot in it.
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You're actually wrong. It's easier to tune reliability in with the Commonrail system. But reliable 1000hp "stock bottom end" 12 valves have been around for a while. Same with "stock bottom end" LS turbo engines.

"stock bottom end" = factory forged crank, factory forged rods, but upgraded hardware.

arse_sidewards said:
I'm saying that 1000hp tends to reach it's inevitable conclusion way more quickly in a "lemme just plop this BDL on muh car hauler and cross that mountain" application than it does in a street truck. Keep an eye on all the temp gauges I guess.
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Compound turbos make egts a non issue.
Just chatted to a buddy who's tow rig is a triple turbo 1500hp 3rd gen. 5th gear rolling burnouts in a dually is something else.
 
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bad zuki said:
But reliable 1000hp "stock bottom end" 12 valves have been around for a while. Same with "stock bottom end" LS turbo engines.
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And like the 1000hp LS's they are mostly living in street/strip type vehicles that might make a pass or do a burnout or mat it when merging but don't actually see that much continuous or cumulative time wide open.
bad zuki said:
"stock bottom end" = factory forged crank, factory forged rods, factory pistons, but upgraded hardware.
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There's a reason people don't have 1000hp turbo LS's in tow rigs. At some point the parts aren't up to it and the service life of things becomes too low.

You can't actually put down 500hp in a car for minutes on end like you can pulling a grade.

bad zuki said:
Compound turbos make egts a non issue.
Just chatted to a buddy who's tow rig is a triple turbo 1500hp 3rd gen. 5th gear rolling burnouts in a dually is something else.
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You're still limited to a fraction of the cooling package that a modern truck that makes 1/3 the horsepower. That's why I said temp gauges and not EGT specifically. Yeah you can solve EGT but running that power up a grade something will probably get warm.
 
Listen, I hope it works out. I just don't think it will without a really light right foot.
 
Is this my fault or Arse's? I'm going to blame him.
out-of-touch-blame-it-on-the-kids.gif
 
Making some weld washers

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Start of axle side trackbar bracket

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Superlift frame side trackbar mount, cut off most of it and have a good base to start from.

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Axle side bracket tacked in place.

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Mocked up with steering , have to get a good measurement on the drag link angle and set trackbar to the same. Tomorrow's goal is to get the trackbar mounted and brackets welded and gusseted. 4th gen tie rod is beefy.

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Hmm I need to try and remember this. I want to push my front axle forward a bit and getting rid of the factory 2nd gen trackbar at same time would be a bonus.
 
There is not much room to move trackbar forward, steering box needs to be moved to really move the axle forward any.

I do have the track bar as close to the pitman arm and drag link as I can. I want to put some more caster in it when I redo the lower links, but probably wont be able to do much with that because the front driveshaft is basically at max operating angle on the CV at the t case when it is at ride height.

I had to grind the inside of the CV joint just so the driveshaft wouldn't bind up with any droop. :laughing:

I am not going to cut and turn the inner Cs, especially on a CAD axle. The XMLs do not rub so the axle is ok where it is at I guess.

Would like to move it forward, but really not interested in moving the steering box.
 
Alexis700 said:
There is not much room to move trackbar forward, steering box needs to be moved to really move the axle forward any.

I do have the track bar as close to the pitman arm and drag link as I can. I want to put some more caster in it when I redo the lower links, but probably wont be able to do much with that because the front driveshaft is basically at max operating angle on the CV at the t case when it is at ride height.

I had to grind the inside of the CV joint just so the driveshaft wouldn't bind up with any droop. :laughing:

I am not going to cut and turn the inner Cs, especially on a CAD axle. The XMLs do not rub so the axle is ok where it is at I guess.

Would like to move it forward, but really not interested in moving the steering box.
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Yeah there was a guy on the old forum with a blue dodge that I think was able to go 1" maybe 1.25" forward. IIRC he was running 38s with like 3" lift.
 
Grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint.

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I am ******ed, did not know that in 09 or so the 3rd gen trackbar went from 14mm bolts to 16mm. I put this all together with 14mm bolts, so oh well. I torqued the track bar bolts to 170 ft lbs. Shouldnt waller the holes out, those weld washers should help a lot.

Set toe at 1/8" in and got it all back together. Drives much nicer, front end feels much better hitting bumps and dead spot in steering is gone. Still needs a box and a bit more caster but it is pretty good as is.

The Chevy got some hand me down wheels. Really want to swap the 4.56 gear 14 bolt in it now, 3.42s are lame with 37s. It has really long legs though, probably go 130 mph no problem. :lmao:

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After pulling this

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Decided a zf6 swap would be a good idea , thanks for being a bad influnce bad zuki . He sent me a fbmp ad, almost didn't get it because a guy was supposed to buy the parts truck and transmission today earlier.

But he was cool and said he would set it aside for me , so I made the 6 hour round trip after work today to get it. It was sitting outside for who knows how long, I was worried about water being in it. So talked him down to 1300 for it.


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Pulled drain plug, fluid had been drained but there was minimal water that came out. Pulled pto cover, some schmoo on the gears but rinsed with brake clean and it looks decent. Relieved to find that it looks good, no signs of it being full of water.

He couldn't find the shifter, but a new shifter is $75 from allstate gear and dennys driveshaft has the 1480 flange yoke for the rear for $75.

Should be able to have the driveline shop just shorten up the driveline from the t case to carrier bearing and weld on a new 1480 weld yoke. Currently the driveline is 4" .083" steel tube with 1410 at the np241 slip yoke, 1480 at carrier bearing, and 1410 at the dana 80.

Thinking I want to also swap the dana 80 yoke for a 1480 so the whole driveline is 1480.

For the front should be able to find a used superduty front driveshaft and modify it to work. And swap the 1330 dana 60 yoke for a 1350.


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Very cool. I think it's the best combo. Like I have said over and over we have had better luck with dodge trucks with the Cummins over the fords but that transmission is almost enough reason to build a fummins. Everyone sayin about their ultimate truck being the ford, cummins and allison combo :flipoff2:. For me a square chevy crew cab or 3rd gen ram mega cab, cummins and ZF6 would be the perfect build.

The NV4500 is a good transmission behind a big block I think. The gear spread with the rpm range of the cummins doesn't pair well and then you can just overdo the TQ rating pretty quick.
 
Alexis700 said:
Decided a zf6 swap would be a good idea , thanks for being a bad influnce bad zuki . He sent me a fbmp ad, almost didn't get it because a guy was supposed to buy the parts truck and transmission today earlier.
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Glad you got one cheap. You can curse me after you try and finagle it into place. :flipoff2: #6speedswaptheworld.

Alexis700 said:
Relieved to find that it looks good, no signs of it being full of water.
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Iirc, the tail housing takes almost nothing to remove. Do that, and verify it. :laughing:

Alexis700 said:
For the front should be able to find a used superduty front driveshaft and modify it to work. And swap the 1330 dana 60 yoke for a 1350.
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You’d need the yoke off an f350 Dana 60 and it would bolt in. Right? Also, you need to add in some kind of slip in the rear driveshaft.
 
The rear shaft being 2 piece , I was thinking solid section between t case and the carrier bearing. That is how the oem f550 rear driveline is setup. He gave me a used f550 rear driveline, also. But I just had a custom 2 piece rear driveline built last year for the dodge, so will just have the front section of that shortened.

There is a slip joint at carrier bearing to the rear diff. Shouldnt need another slip section on front section, carrier bearing is rubber mounted and can absorb movement from engine.

A f350 dana 60 yoke and front driveshaft should work for front, either shorten or lengthen front driveshaft but I can do the front driveshaft myself.
 
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