Sequoia Family Crawler

Motiracer38 said:
I was traveling all weekend but got a chance to research a it more and it looks like you're all right and it's going to be too small. Stock SD is 1.313 so leaning towards that but 1.5 is tempting for a quicker reacting pedal.

Also turns out the shock needs to go in the same place as the master so I'll need a cantilever system. Should be easy to whip up right?
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thats why i am running mine remote on my tundra. The shock tower is in the way on mine. Mine is mounted on the passenger side and actuated with a clutch master cylinder to a slave cylinder.
 
Vital design and The Fab Lab have done cantilever setups for different trucks. I'm sure with a few minutes on your comp you can draw up a perfect setup to have The Fab Lab cut or myself cut out for you and I can ship the parts to you to save you gas and only 1 day shipping from me
 
Alright, gave ordering another master another shot. Found a 37mm which is 1.45in that has 1/2-20 outlets that should make new lines easier to run. 99-02 Chevy 2500HD chinese imitation is $45 on Amazon so giving it a shot.
 
Another weekend of work complete and got well into front shocks mounts. Had to remake the lower links mounts to provide a base for the lower shock mounts while keeping a bumpstop landing zone. Extra tab is for limit straps.
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I don't love landing tubes on the outside of the frame so this time made it from .25 tube and added both a saddle gusset behind and a strap over the outside .
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The towers themselves have a miter joint in the rear to tuck in tight to clear the booster and was able to put a permanent cross bar against the firewall with big gussets in the corners. Only took some rerouting of the heater hoses.
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Some temporary angle iron tabs allowed for flexing for the first time and although it's tight everything clears at full articulation and full steer.
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Going to add one more down tube in front of the shock and build a shock tab structure to tie into them to brace the 3.5" long tabs.
 
Haha, it sure seems like it. I have an idea mocked up that should work but we'll see. There's 3in between the booster and the spring still.
 
Got the upper shock mounts complete by adding a third tube and building tabs off them. AC lines are a hassle on the passenger side and the driver ended up about in the way of the master cylinder as expected.
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Been a busy month with motorcycle riding season back in full swing but got some time to finish plating in the frame to keep the front end rigid.
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Also started on the bumper using a contoured square tube and a harbor freight winch mount. I wish it were tighter but the winch nearly touches the grill and I kept the factory AC condenser and fan in place in front of the grill.
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Feels odd skipping forward to building a bumper but the front body mounts and radiator will mount off tubes that tie in to the bumper so it was needed. Probably won't get a skid plate or light mounts for a while.
 
The radiator got mounted, had to slim down to a 19x21 to fit inside the steering box but is a double row core aluminum which should be more efficient. Fan shroud to come later.
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Also started working on the rear suspension. Standard 4 link bars made from 2x.25 DOM on the lower a 1.75x.120w on the the uppers. Not so standard upper shock mount
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Rear cantilever arms enable a 14in coilover to be mounted under the body and yield 23in of vertical wheel travel. Probably not crawler friendly but should smooth out the desert sections better than a typical 1:1 mounted shock. No way to get a good picture yet so here is the CAD model it was designed to with the factory frame not shown. The rear tank will hang low and smack on rocks, yet another compromise for a multi purpose rig.
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Sequoia updates look great and didn't realize you were going Cantilever rear! Will make grocery runs and soccer game runs so much more enjoyable! :lmao:

More info on the rear engine Little Tikes car...:smokin:
 
Gas tank is GM26C from a 87-96 GM van with 33 gallon capacity. Will have to modify for Toyota pump.

The cantilever arms pivot on unit bearings from a 96-07 Dodge Grand Caravan. The bearing keys tightly into a 1/4in plate and is secured with 12.9 hardware.

Sequoia Family Crawler

Panhard bar is now in place. Took quite a bit of work to get it in the right spot to minimize bumpsteer, clear all the up travel, and keep a flat drag link at ride height.
forum.badlinesgoodtimes.com forum.badlinesgoodtimes.com

Some more info on the details on badlinesgoodtimes forum as well.
 
What Tommy said. ^^
I welded the stock pump plate and pressure sensor so everything should work like stock.
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Little Tykes is the kids' project, 80cc quad engine go cart that only progresses when the kids are there to work on it.
 
It has been slow going for a bit now but have been making steady progress. Tank gas and vent lines along with evap system are all in place now. Had to make new hard lines for everything as the tank and evap swapped places.
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Was able to relocate the stock filter behind the tire and the stock fill tube so it should fill alright.
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Then I moved the gas filler back and up for tire clearance and got the first pass on tire fender clearance.
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I also installed the rear calipers and ran the lines but the e-brake motor crashed into the cantilever mounts so it'll need to be redone.
 
Rear axle calipers and brake lines have been swapped to the front and everything clears so far. I also filled in the holes in the truss so mud doesn't collect.
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Got the axle in place and the rear cantilever mounted for good. 23 inches of vertical travel should be enough for over landing. Spring rates are calculated but tough to verify just yet.
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I had to add a bolt through the unit bearing to mimic the axle to keep preload. The wheel studs were swapped with bolts and all the pilot surfaces were used. I'm hopeful these will hold up for a long time but will definitely keep an eye on them.
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They are 2019 F150 rear calipers with electronic e-brake. Used to eliminate the need for a cable that is difficult to route with long links and lots of travel. Don't have a controller for them just yet
 
I have a question about the sub frame for the links. Hard to tell in the pictures but is it flush / flat with the frame or does it hang down a couple of inches? I really think I am going to do something very similar on my 4runner buggy.
 
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