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Sequoia Family Crawler

With the steering shaft built, my steering system is nearing completion. The Sequoia column has a dual cv joint straight off it that has to be changed up. Used Amazon joints and DD shafts and it seems quality enough.
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I used a 2wd box cause I had it and like the 3rd mount from above. The body mount got cut off so that'll be fun to deal with later.
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The pitman arm needs work still but the draglink is complete and hoping 1.75x.250 wall holds up. The box was pushed forward quite a bit to clear the dual ended assist cylinder.
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The steering arms are sheet metal with the input as high as needed to be horizontal at ride height.
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The ram is mounted to the axle above center hopefully out of reach but will likely get a little bumper at some point
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I did have to trim my new frame section to get to the input of the steering box but was too lazy to remove the motor and cut from the inside. I put an old chopsaw wheel about 8" diameter on an air tool which worked great but looked and sounded hilarious. Posted on IG and it went viral with 50k views and counting. I got a chuckle out that one.
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bdkw1 said:
So why did you get rid of the Ackerman?
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I didn't get rid of all of it but you're right in that I did not prioritize keeping it. I'm not convinced Ackermann is required for anything other than keeping tires from squealing in parking lots. This is being built primarily for dirt roads, secondarily for tight rocky trails, and trying to keep some semblance of highway manners. With a low traction dirt road the slip angle needs to be increased to maintain turning force so less Ackermann would help load the outer tire. In rocks you need all the angle you can get on each tire so no Ackermann wins there. On the highway it shouldn't matter.

Side note- Ackermann is mandatory on beams and preferred on A-arms in parking lots so that the lateral force doesn't jack the vehicle up when turning. Often ignored but years of working contingencies convinced me of this. A specific class 8 with a ton of anti Ackermann would get pulled down every time it turned and was crazy to watch. Solid axle shouldn't have this problem.
 
I got the panhard bar complete. The frame side is 6" off the frame and dips between the axle truss and tie rod at full bump.
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In order to match angle and length the axle side ended up on the knuckle. Not thrilled about welding to the cast but it's on all four sides welded inside and out with a rib down to the truss. I had to keep bump for the bump stop or it would be boxed in more.
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The bar itself is 1.75x.120 wall DOM and ended up with two bends, 20 and 15 degree. I used a uniball on the frame side to guarantee clocking and eliminate the risk of it spinning and smashing the oil pan. The bends through the cg off so it drops with its own weight and will need to add a rubber washer or little link to keep in place.
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I cycled through the travel from bump to about 10" down and found no appreciable bump steer. The flex steer is there but hard to quantify how big of an impact it will be. I prioritized a flatter drag link at ride height over eliminating flex steer so hope it works out.
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It feels great to finally be able to steer and flex. The steering binds a lot which seems to be coming from the knuckles. It has some sort of BJ eliminator with grease zirks so I'll be cleaning them out and trying to free them up.

Still have no idea what I'm doing but this was a big hurdle to get over.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
not sure I follow this question?
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He moved the tierod pivots on the spindles inward. This will reduce the amount of Ackerman angle as it turns.

As he noted above, Ackerman is only really useful at low speeds with good traction, like a parking lot. Some race cars have reverse Ackerman due to the amount of time they are sideways.
 
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Keep an eye on those shitty set screw u joints. Even the expensive ones have a bad reputation.

They will wear the spline area and eventually either come loose, or just destroy your steering box input. Factory pinch joints are way better.
 
0.120 wall panhard with bends worries me a bit.
 
I may have missed it but do you have specs on what your planning for the steering box to have a double ended ram?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Keep an eye on those shitty set screw u joints. Even the expensive ones have a bad reputation.
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I'm not thrilled with them but they did require a bit of force to get on the box. I suppose I could slot it and install a shaft collar around the outside if they loosen up too quickly. I have a pile of stock joints but admit to taking the easy way out this time.

slab said:
0.120 wall panhard with bends worries me a bit.
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1.75 diameter should help right? It's on my my worry list as well.

06h3 said:
I may have missed it but do you have specs on what your planning for the steering box to have a double ended ram?
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Steering box is a 2wd Toyota box that will be tapped in the standard assist locations. Using -6 fittings and lines with factory Sequoia pump.The standard 1.5in single ended cylinder has a piston area of 7.1sqin on the cylinder side and this 2in cylinder with 1.25in rod has a piston area of 7.65sqin on each side. This led to my assumption that a similar volume of fluid is required in both setups but this would have equal steering force. No idea if it will work well but at worst should just be slow or hot right?
 
It's what I had, lol

Same internals as a 4wd box with better mounting. Smaller output shaft but the assist should isolate most the shock loading. If it proves to be an issue I could swap to the V6 box for the larger output shaft
 
Any idea what to do with the brakes on this thing. I have super duty calipers so likely need a 1-1/16 master but the booster is a goofy looking two bolt pattern canted with 3.5" or 90mm on center. I'm going to ignore the electronics for now and hope pulling the ABS fuse kills the traction control
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here is how to fix your brakes

irate4x4.com

iBooster Electric Brake Booster

I didn't see anything on irate about the iBooster so wanted to start a thread about it now that I have some evidence of it being good for crawling. This is meant to give information and add options when it comes to braking, not to say it's better or worse than other options. Summary: I...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
 
Dorman’s website will allow you to search based on bore size and bolt pattern
 
What about just trying to use the superduty master? Those canted 2 bolts might actually help since you could make an adapter without the 2 patterns interfering.

Might have to make a rod extension also. Guys have been doing it forever on the older Toyotas and GM master cyl.

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Thanks guys, Dorman site helped show that nothing is bolt on and good point about the offset pattern helping. I'm not looking to further over complicate this build so no eboost or hydro boost this time.
I went ahead and ordered the T100 and might just drill it out to fit. The pickup bolt pattern isn't off by that much.
 
I have a 1.5" MC on my S10 with 4 Superduty front calipers and it works great. Stock dual diaphragm S10 booster.

You may be on the small side and have a low soft pedal.

The later model Chevy masters seem to be nice but the giant reservoir is tough to package. It's also a bitch to remove without breaking like all of them.
 
I was traveling all weekend but got a chance to research a it more and it looks like you're all right and it's going to be too small. Stock SD is 1.313 so leaning towards that but 1.5 is tempting for a quicker reacting pedal.

Also turns out the shock needs to go in the same place as the master so I'll need a cantilever system. Should be easy to whip up right?
 
Motiracer38 said:
I was traveling all weekend but got a chance to research a it more and it looks like you're all right and it's going to be too small. Stock SD is 1.313 so leaning towards that but 1.5 is tempting for a quicker reacting pedal.

Also turns out the shock needs to go in the same place as the master so I'll need a cantilever system. Should be easy to whip up right?
Click to expand...

cho and richer have a solution if you want to write a check to solve that problem.
 
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