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School me on wood deck trailer tie downs.

life hack for rub rail and stake pockets....

in-between stake packets cut some roll cage tubing or what ever you and weld on horizontal so you can wrap axle straps around them with out having sharp edges and such... some trailers have them already

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I actually hadn't thought of that. I'm used to seeing it in enclosed trailers. How's it with crud getting in it?
It definitely gets crud in it. The only things that have been a problem for me are precisely-sized bits of gravel. But it’s rarely an issue for me. That one time every few years when I load the trailer up full of tree trimmings I get lots of sticks down in the slots, but it only sucks for a little bit.
 
Best I've got handy, ft is nearly identical.

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Dude just get a normal width trailer and 4 of these. $8 ea, and just leave them on the rub rails. They're pretty handy for other stuff too.

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There is a choker style also that would stay put easier, but I can't find a short one.

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But really, I'd probably just keep the current trailer :laughing:
 
This is what stake pocket look like after a bit of use with chains. :homer: That's not even a bad one.

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Why are the chains getting hooked into the stake pocket when there is a rub rail that is 3x as thick that can be hooked into?
 
Why are the chains getting hooked into the stake pocket when there is a rub rail that is 3x as thick that can be hooked into?

They're running through the stake pocket and then underneath in order to hang the hook so it can't fall off when you're hooking the other side or binder. Which is fine with the pipe, but the stake pockets are not thick enough deal with chains no matter how you do it.
 
They're running through the stake pocket and then underneath in order to hang the hook so it can't fall off when you're hooking the other side or binder. Which is fine with the pipe, but the stake pockets are not thick enough deal with chains no matter how you do it.
Yeah, I know that you drop the chain down, then hook it on "top" of the pocket/rub rail, so it doesn't come loose if the chain happens to loosen up or whatever. Oh, are the chain links causing that damage to the stake pocket, not the chain hook? I was thinking you were hooking the chain hook into the edge of the stake pocket and tearing it somehow....that is why I asked why the chain hook wasn't getting hooked into the thicker rub rail.
 
Yeah, I know that you drop the chain down, then hook it on "top" of the pocket/rub rail, so it doesn't come loose if the chain happens to loosen up or whatever. Oh, are the chain links causing that damage to the stake pocket, not the chain hook? I was thinking you were hooking the chain hook into the edge of the stake pocket and tearing it somehow....that is why I asked why the chain hook wasn't getting hooked into the thicker rub rail.

Exactly
 
Ok. I chain most of the stuff I haul and I've never damaged stake pockets like that. But I don't pull at extreme angles and/or against the sides of the stake pockets that hard, so that may be why.

This is a 10+ year old equipment trailer. This company likes to use those retarded cam over binders, so you often get stuck between too loose and too tight, and grab the bar and send it home :laughing: the tie downs on the ex are wide, so it's almost pulling straight front to back.

Not saying it can work, just not the "right" way. Pipes are so simple and easy, it's the way to go.
 
Well this kind a fell apart. They were all about selling me a trailer then text me they can't get it in 18ft or in any other brand they carry. I guess back on the hunt for a 18ft buggy hauler.
 
Fwiw, most regular trailers are 83" between fenders. I like the buggy hauler style, but if easy tie down is a main priority, I'd just get a standard trailer so you can clip the axle while standing on the ground.
 
This is a 10+ year old equipment trailer. This company likes to use those retarded cam over binders, so you often get stuck between too loose and too tight, and grab the bar and send it home :laughing: the tie downs on the ex are wide, so it's almost pulling straight front to back.

Not saying it can work, just not the "right" way. Pipes are so simple and easy, it's the way to go.
go back to your too-loose link and throw a twist in the chain, it will make the half link you need
 
Fwiw, most regular trailers are 83" between fenders. I like the buggy hauler style, but if easy tie down is a main priority, I'd just get a standard trailer so you can clip the axle while standing on the ground.

Yeah, I know. I'm kinda set on a buggy hauler. The idea with a buggy hauler is mount a tool box in front of the buggy for straps. Get out the buggy, walk to the front, grab straps, tie off front, walk to back and tie down, step right off the beaver.

At minimum I'd want a 83 wide with drive overs and full length rub rails I can put ramps onto if needed. Sides need to be flush unlike my current setup, no stake pockets, light mounts ect. sticking out.
 
So after a few months this came in. I actually have a few trips with it already and it's been great. Diamond C 18' max width 9900lb with 6k axles and built in tool box up front and I deleted the spare tire mount.

Things mint so far and still fits in the garage with the buggy loaded. I can walk around a lot easier without stepping on tires and such and actually tie down the rig without getting on the deck.
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Hull poter trailers.
I ordered a 18 foot tilt deck with 7 k axles.
5800 $. It’s in Iowa though. Lots of other things. Like load g tires.

fyi.
I was taking a hard look at their manual tilt deck “speed hauler” before the plandemic. They had very reasonable prices. Now the prices have jumped up pretty drastically. Their build quality seems on point and the few YouTube vids I found, people seem to like em.
 
i am happy with mine. and i know the price was higher than in the past but i did not buy then. so i needed to buy now. still totally happy with the purchase
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