SATV Rhino DS solid mount carrier bearing

[Wades_76_cj7]

JR4X did you get any seat time with the new SATV driveshaft and solid mount carrier bearing yet?

I am chasing a buzzing noise in the rear of mine right now. I have replaced the u joints in the DS last summer but the carrier is still the factory piece. Both rear CV shafts are original, wheel bearings are original. RZR has 21xx miles on it. I grease the wheel bearings about twice a year. I can hear the buzzing/growling in high gear more than Low. seems to be about 15-25 mph. Checked the trans fluid and actually parked it nose down a little to overfill. I run Popo fluids in everything.

Have a Moab trip the first week of May and I'm trying to get everything covered that could be a problem.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

just to follow up on this. ending up teh carrier bearing was bad. appeared to turn normal, pulled the driveshaft and the bearing was totally dried out and rusty dust come out when I drove the bearing off the shaft to replace with a Timken.

 

[JR4X]

I thought I had responded to this

When you posted this my reply was that I didn’t have it off the jack stands yet from the install. But I’ve since driven it and have less vibration than it did with the factory driveshaft

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I would be interested in running the Rhino front and rear shaft in mine but I have read that you have to run the solid mount carrier bearings. I can't remember why now. A casual friend runs the C series in his XP4 with the SATV solid mount bearing and when I talked to him last he said he was going to switch back for whatever reason.. (if he told me I can't remember)

I would prefer to run the rubber mounted carrier with the full Rhino prop shaft if I can.

 

[JR4X]

So I've got a review. The billet carrier part seems to have held up fine. But the rearmost shaft/CV came unplugged and the shaft was banging around and tore the boot to shreds. I couldn't get it to slip back together in the car.

With no room to see it was a little more complex than what I've seen previously. The circlip has to seat in both a groove on the shaft, and in a groove inside the CV so the shaft is flush with the star. I got it put together wrong with the circlip out the end of the star and tried to bolt the CV to to the flange. The end of the shaft hit the nut in the flange.

The shaft is soft enough that it deformed the end of the splines tapping it with a small ball peen trying to get it reseated. To save it I ground the end off, drilled and tapped it to 1/4 20. Found a washer that was the perfect diameter to hold the CV firmly where I wanted it. Then had to make a hodge podge boot out of one of the old steering boots because there's no space next to the clutch case and I don't like the way they had it.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Update:
I ended up ordering the SATV Rhino U series driveshaft for mine last night. front factory is bent and has about 3/8" or so runout. the splines on the rear yoke at the trans is getting kinda worn i think and I will just pull them and keep them for spares. from what I have read on RZR forums is the factory style rubber mounted carrier bearing can but used with them but will need a spacer added to rear shaft to position the carrier bearing where it needs to go. IIRC it's .400" wide that is needed. I need to find that thread there again so i can make the spacer.

 

[JR4X]

Held up just fine to over 100 miles in Baja Mexico this trip. Even my boot hung in there.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Ran mine around the neighborhood this weekend finally. SATV sends a new roll pin with the shaft but it's pretty big and is a real bitch to drive in. Before my Moab trip last month I replaced a u joint on the stock shaft and lost the OEM rollpin so I just bought a 5/16" replacement. was a real bitch to drive in and a MF'r! to get out. ended up grinding a air hammer bit down to a straight pin to get it out. no good way to hit it with a hammer and punch. I used a 5/16x2.5" long bolt with a nylock nut and it will be must easier to remove later.

new driveshaft seems to have gotten rid of the growly bearing noise I had in Moab that I couldn't figure out while there. i guess I will find out this weekend at SMORR. I bought some new 32" sticky Roxxzillas too. hopefully I don't break anything.

 

[JR4X]

SATV sends a new roll pin with the shaft but it's pretty big and is a real bitch to drive in. Before my Moab trip last month I replaced a u joint on the stock shaft and lost the OEM rollpin so I just bought a 5/16" replacement. was a real bitch to drive in and a MF'r! to get out. ended up grinding a air hammer bit down to a straight pin to get it out. no good way to hit it with a hammer and punch. I used a 5/16x2.5" long bolt with a nylock nut and it will be must easier to remove later

The new front yoke I got from SATV isn’t squared up, it’s tapered like a cone. I didn’t like how the bolt felt so I stayed with the roll pin. I have a home made punch that’s 2 ft long for knocking it in and out. The factory one seems to be easier to work with than the hollow SATV one is

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

The new front yoke I got from SATV isn’t squared up, it’s tapered like a cone.

yea the front yoke on mine is slightly tapered as well. It should be ok with a nylock nut on it. i'll keep and eye on it and may just grab another OEM roll pin for it next time I am at the dealer. not sure if it was the age of my stock roll pin that may have crimped it down a little bit. it stayed in place but I could still knock it out with a small ball peen and roll pin punch. the 5/16" RP i bought at tractor supply to replace it was freaking tight..

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Went to SMORR over the holiday weekend. I tried to use the factory style carrier bearing with the rubber isolator and the rubber kept walking out the front of the stamped steel piece anytime I stood on the throttle for long hill climbs. Needless to say it got old pulling the seats and tunnel cover to push it back into place. I guess I'll put the SATV rigid mount bearing in this weekend.