Sas the daily

[00nissanguy]

Lil back story. Have owned this rig close to 3 years and it's been my daily/overland rig the entire time. As any nissan guy knows the factory ifs and steering leaves a lot to be desired and with the 35s it's pretty poor to drive and they rub like crazy so might as well sas to fix those problems and help with reliability.

Axle build is pretty standard
Trail gear Tacoma housing
Tg inners with rcv outers
Trunion eliminators
4.56 hp diff with arb
3rd gen 4runner brakes with fror bracket
Cromolly inner and outer hub hears

I used a ruff stuff radius arm kit and fox 2.0x10 coil overs

 

[00nissanguy]

Owning a plasma table has its percs some times. Made making the cross member cut out easy

 

[00nissanguy]

Front driveline is a stock xterra front, the stock joint is 1310 so a 1310 to 1350 joint let's me use a 1350 tundra yoke, just had to weld a couple holes shut in the triple drilled flanges and redrill the 2, was able to use the stock driveline as is, had plenty of slip to work

 

[00nissanguy]

Put about 100 miles on it this weekend, drives mostly great but its got a lag feel. I think it needs a caster adjustment. Currently sitting at 7.5 degrees and the rear sprung over without overload is too soft. I can feel some axle wrap leaving a light. Would like to get it a couple inches lower but for now I'm just going to drive it

 

[Skinny]

Nice! I like street rigs with solid axles. Built the way they all used to be...

I would think you have enough caster. I don't know if I would add more.

When you say "lag" can you be more specific?

 

[00nissanguy]

Nice! I like street rigs with solid axles. Built the way they all used to be...

I would think you have enough caster. I don't know if I would add more.

When you say "lag" can you be more specific?

I think I have too much. Factory toyota spec I saw was 4 degrees, but everything I read said people said 5 to 10 was good so i went 7 to start, It feels like the tires are aired down and the wheel doesn't like to return to center after taking a corner

 

[Skinny]

That is usually too little caster, a seized balljoints or tie rod end, too little backlash in the gearbox, or the steering shaft is notchy from wear.

My S10 is in the road test phase of the build and I'm not getting enough return to center. I'm going to add another 4 degrees of caster. It's at like 2.5 to 3 which I think is not enough.

 

[Penetrode Offroad]

Cool!

 

[bgaidan]

rear sprung over without overload is too soft. I can feel some axle wrap leaving a light. Would like to get it a couple inches lower but for now I'm just going to drive it

What springs do you have in the rear?

I have an '02 on 35's with a bastard stock pack in the rear - stock pack with a couple random extra leaves to get it to height. I regularly taco the main leaf. In fact, I just pulled another stock pack at the junkyard on tuesday and this time I'm adding a traction bar that should hopefully eliminate it.

I think you'll almost certainly need a traction bar or your axle wrap will turn your springs into W's.

The frontier has a bastard Alacan pack based around 63" chevy springs that ride almost flat and is 1000% better than the X.


Ideally, if I can talk myself in to spending them money and figure out exactly what to order, I'd like to put the x back to spring under with a taller pack from Alacan or the like. I just haven't had a time to measure a stock truck to figure out what exact height I'd need to tell them to build them to.



Curious to see how that driveshaft holds up. I was just talking to someone the other day about another rig that's doing the same thing you did. I don't know of anyone else that's running a straight shaft and no CV. I think that other guy is coming to a run next weekend so I'll get a firsthand view there. Sure would make things easier.

 

[00nissanguy]

What springs do you have in the rear?

I have an '02 on 35's with a bastard stock pack in the rear - stock pack with a couple random extra leaves to get it to height. I regularly taco the main leaf. In fact, I just pulled another stock pack at the junkyard on tuesday and this time I'm adding a traction bar that should hopefully eliminate it.

I think you'll almost certainly need a traction bar or your axle wrap will turn your springs into W's.

The frontier has a bastard Alacan pack based around 63" chevy springs that ride almost flat and is 1000% better than the X.


Ideally, if I can talk myself in to spending them money and figure out exactly what to order, I'd like to put the x back to spring under with a taller pack from Alacan or the like. I just haven't had a time to measure a stock truck to figure out what exact height I'd need to tell them to build them to.



Curious to see how that driveshaft holds up. I was just talking to someone the other day about another rig that's doing the same thing you did. I don't know of anyone else that's running a straight shaft and no CV. I think that other guy is coming to a run next weekend so I'll get a firsthand view there. Sure would make things easier.

I like how yours sits. I got new coils coming and hoping to drop mine similar.
The rears just a stock 3 leaf pack without the overload and a 6 inch shackle. It's way to soft and needs some work for sure but want to get the front dialed in first, I have 4 more stock springs just incase I s this pack haha

This is my 2nd xterra iv sased, my 1st one I ran the stock driveline for a couple years with no issues and 2 if my buddy's who have sased theirs did the same. It doesn't vibrate that I can tell

I like the tall spring under idea. Iv always had good luck with making springs last in the sprung under setups

 

[06h3]

badass, I didnt realize you are on here.

I usually hear that 7* of caster is spot on for larger tire builds but some rigs are picky. I know my rig likes 0* toe in/out. My brothers rig likes a 1/16 of toe in. So maybe yours is just picky and wants a little more or less.

 

[00nissanguy]

badass, I didnt realize you are on here.

I usually hear that 7* of caster is spot on for larger tire builds but some rigs are picky. I know my rig likes 0* toe in/out. My brothers rig likes a 1/16 of toe in. So maybe yours is just picky and wants a little more or less.

I'm not very good at posting but am trying 😅
That's what I read too so that's why I went 7 degrees, I'm getting new coils today so I figured I'll bring it down to 4 degrees while I'm working on it. My old build was ran at 4ish and it drove great.
I'm at 1/8th toe in but figure I'll try caster 1st since stock toyota is 4 degree and those are the parts I'm running

 

[Rangerrod]

I think it’s the fact there’s so much roof on this one!!

 

[00nissanguy]

I think it’s the fact there’s so much roof on this one!!

My oldest is already making comments about cutting it off

 

[bgaidan]

This is my 2nd xterra iv sased, my 1st one I ran the stock driveline for a couple years with no issues and 2 if my buddy's who have sased theirs did the same. It doesn't vibrate that I can tell

Interesting. I had the $$ calmini one on mine and when it got sloppy, I made one from a stock XJ front with a flange adapter on the t-case. I may have to make one from one of the stock fronts I have laying around to try it out.

 

[00nissanguy]

Interesting. I had the $$ calmini one on mine and when it got sloppy, I made one from a stock XJ front with a flange adapter on the t-case. I may have to make one from one of the stock fronts I have laying around to try it out.

Since the jeep is 1310 couldn't you just put that u joint into the xterra yoke and bolt it on like factory and not need a custom flange adaper?

 

[bgaidan]

Since the jeep is 1310 couldn't you just put that u joint into the xterra yoke and bolt it on like factory and not need a custom flange adaper?

Jeep is a CV so you need a CV flange. You can get away with drilling the pattern in to the tx10 flange, but the holes end up really close to the edge and I don't like it.

If you've seen nissannut's write up, I made adapters very similar to his, using the ford CV flange on the XJ CV.

 

[00nissanguy]

Jeep is a CV so you need a CV flange. You can get away with drilling the pattern in to the tx10 flange, but the holes end up really close to the edge and I don't like it.

If you've seen nissannut's write up, I made adapters very similar to his, using the ford CV flange on the XJ CV.

Oh OK the picture helps. Iv never messed with double cardinal joints so I'm doing a lot of learning. I need one for sure though. Finally got to test it out yesterday and it's got a good shake

 

[00nissanguy]

Finally flexed it out. Still had about 3 inches of shaft showing and the rear was maxed out

 

[00nissanguy]

Had about 150 miles on it driving to work last week so had to do a 200 plus mile loop this weekend. Got into about 3 feet of snow, having a front locker is real nice. Figured out a few things it needs though
Needs double cv joint in the driveline
1 rcv rubs inside the knuckle, probably needs some clearancing
Needs a Lil more caster
Rear axle needs an over load put in, new upper shackle mount, some decent shocks and bump stops

 

[bgaidan]

Oh OK the picture helps. Iv never messed with double cardinal joints so I'm doing a lot of learning. I need one for sure though. Finally got to test it out yesterday and it's got a good shake

XJ is about the cheapest stock shaft you'll find with 1310's. Should have enough slip for links. My buddy had one on leaves and it pop out in certain scenarios. He's moving to a square shaft with an XJ CV to "fix" it on the cheap.


Calmini sells this one for $800. (I have one that came with my truck). They basically take a Nissan flange (possibly a diff or t-case flange) and weld it to a 1310 pinion or t-case yoke and it eliminates the need for the adapter plate that I used. I made one for one of my friends and it worked well. Still trying to find the best 1310 yoke to use to make a couple more.

I'd also like to find a better donor shaft that has more slip than the XJ one. Now that I have my big lathe up and running, I can get a little more creative.

 

[00nissanguy]

XJ is about the cheapest stock shaft you'll find with 1310's. Should have enough slip for links. My buddy had one on leaves and it pop out in certain scenarios. He's moving to a square shaft with an XJ CV to "fix" it on the cheap.


Calmini sells this one for $800. (I have one that came with my truck). They basically take a Nissan flange (possibly a diff or t-case flange) and weld it to a 1310 pinion or t-case yoke and it eliminates the need for the adapter plate that I used. I made one for one of my friends and it worked well. Still trying to find the best 1310 yoke to use to make a couple more.

I'd also like to find a better donor shaft that has more slip than the XJ one. Now that I have my big lathe up and running, I can get a little more creative.

I was wondering how they did it, makes sense though. I appreciate the info

 

[GGRR 4555]

Cool rig!

 

[00nissanguy]

Cool rig!

Thank you

 

[00nissanguy]

Wife left town so I had Friday off to babysit the kid so we got some work done, sanded the rusty bumper, added some gussets, and threw some hammered gray on. Also wasn't a fan of the bronze wheels so I went back to white. Then on Saturday hit a local sandy area, gotta say coil overs are a big improvement in the rough/whoops then any other suspension setup iv had. Need to do some work to the rear now, the shocks are shot and could use some bump stops

I

 

[Wendle]

It's taken me over 24 hours to think of where those wheels were trying to take me back to. Nostalgic little itch in the back of the brain.

Turns out it was this, all the way back to '84:

 

[00nissanguy]

It's taken me over 24 hours to think of where those wheels were trying to take me back to. Nostalgic little itch in the back of the brain.

Turns out it was this, all the way back to '84:

That's funny. I always think the red radio flyer wagons

 

[00nissanguy]

Went out last night for a local loop found probably 24 inches of snow

 

[00nissanguy]

Needed some mud flaps to keep the law off me, some times owning a plasma table feels like cheating

 

[00nissanguy]

Also needed a way to keep snow out of the accessories area